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How to change the stones/wheels on a Block grinder?

T

torqueman2002

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SE Michigan
How to change the stones/wheels on a Block grinder.

Every so often a member will post the question or a variation of:
"How do I change the stones/wheels on a Block (bench) grinder?" or
"How do I keep the stone/wheel from rotating when I loosen/tighten the arbor/shaft nut?"

The Block grinders with 5/8" arbors that I have seen, have flats on the ends of the arbor/shaft, to allow holding of the arbor/shaft during the nut removal. The following, will help with grinders that do not have a mechanical way to hold the arbor/shaft. rev01

I have posted some replies in the past, but today I thought it might be handy to start a thread.

Here are my initial thoughts. Please feel free to comment and make suggestions about improving the method(s).

==============================================
DANGER: USE ONLY KNOWN GOOD STONES/WHEELS. Damaged stones/wheels can cause INJURY or DEATH.

Note: Inspect the stone/wheel for signs of chemical, water, and/or physical damage.
Including, but not limited to:

Caution: If a stone is dropped, DO NOT USE it. It can disintegrate in an explosive manner when used.

Destroy and discard any stone that has been dropped, damaged or is questionable in any way.

==============================================
STONE/WHEEL REMOVAL
  • With a gloved hand, hold the stone/wheel.

Note: The right arbor/shaft has right hand (RH) threads and the left arbor/shaft has left hand (LH) threads. See Remarks: 1) - below, for more information. rev01
Note: If, after the arbor/shaft nut has been loosened, it does not thread OFF easily; then, the threads need to be cleaned/repaired.

  • Using the correct size wrench, remove the arbor/shaft nut. (This doesn’t always work.)

If the arbor/shaft turns with the nut; then, try the following methods to hold the wheel/stone and arbor/shaft.

    • On the opposite end of the arbor/shaft, place 2 nuts, tightened against each other (double-nut method),
      • Use the correct size wrench to hold the double-nut while removing the side arbor/shaft nut.
OR,

    • Place a strap wrench around the stone/wheel or arbor/shaft,
      • Use the correct size wrench to remove the arbor/shaft nut.
OR,

    • Place a piece of wedge shaped wood between the stone/wheel and wheel guard,
      • Use the correct size wrench to remove the arbor/shaft nut.

DANGER: DO NOT USE AN IMPACT TO INSTALL AN ARBOR/SHAFT NUT. An impact wrench, used to install an arbor/shaft nut, may damage the stone, which can cause INJURY or DEATH.

OR,

    • Use the low setting of an impact wrench,
      • Use the correct size socket to remove the arbor/shaft nut.


  • Inspect the stone/wheel, arbor/shaft, flanges, and nuts for proper condition before re-installing.
==============================================
STONE/WHEEL INSTALL


  • Install the inner RH & LH flanges onto the arbor/shaft.
  • Install the stone/wheel onto the arbor/shaft.
  • Install the outer RH & LH flanges onto the arbor/shaft.

Note: The right arbor/shaft has RH threads and the left arbor/shaft has left hand LH threads.
Note: If, the arbor/shaft nut does not thread ON easily; then, the threads need to be cleaned/repaired.

  • Install and finger tighten the RH & LH arbor/shaft nuts.
  • With a gloved hand, hold the stone/wheel.
  • Use the correct size wrench to hand tighten the arbor/shaft nut and go 1/4 turn further. (This doesn’t always work.)

If the arbor/shaft turns with the nut; then, try the following methods to hold the wheel/stone and arbor/shaft.

    • On the opposite end of the arbor/shaft, place 2 nuts, tightened against each other (double-nut method),
      • Use the correct size wrench to hand tighten the arbor/shaft nut and go 1/4 turn further.
OR,

    • Place a strap wrench around the stone/wheel or arbor/shaft,
      • Use the correct size wrench to hand tighten the arbor/shaft nut and go 1/4 turn further
OR,

    • Place a piece of wedge shaped wood between the stone/wheel and wheel guard,
      • Use the correct size wrench to hand tighten the arbor/shaft nut and go 1/4 turn further.


  • Return the grinder to safe operating condition. Replace usable parts removed during dis-assembly.
  • While standing to the side of the grinder, turn it ON.
  • Once the Block grinder is up to speed and operating normally, proceed to use it in a Safe manner.

==============================================
Remarks:
1)
Right hand RH threaded nut (normal thread).
Remove/loosen,
With the threaded-end of the arbor/shaft stationary and facing you, turn the nut in the counter-clock wise (CCW) direction.

Install/tighten,
With the threaded-end of the arbor/shaft stationary and facing you, turn the nut in the clock wise (CW) direction.
========
Left hand LH threaded nut (reverse thread).
Remove/loosen,
With the threaded-end of the arbor/shaft stationary and facing you, turn the nut in the clock wise (CW) direction

Install/tighten,
With the threaded-end of the arbor/shaft stationary and facing you, turn the nut in the counter-clock wise (CCW) direction
========

==============================================
References:

==============================================
Revision Tracking
How to change the stones_wheels on a Block bench grinder.txt
Torqueman2002
================
Revisions:
rev00 - March 21, 2016, Initial release.
rev01 - March 21, 2016, McBs suggestions.
==============================================
 
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M

McBrownie

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TM,

Good idea for a thread. You may want to add that the 5/8" shaft Block grinders have flats on the ends that makes things a lot easier. Also, a mention that there are right hand, or "normal", threads on the right hand side and left-hand (righty-loosey, lefty-tighty) on the left side could be helpful for those that have never dealt with them before.
 
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T

torqueman2002

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Messages
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Location
SE Michigan
McBrownie said:
TM,

Good idea for a thread. You may want to add that the 5/8" shaft Block grinders have flats on the ends that makes things a lot easier. Also, a mention that there are right hand, or "normal", threads on the right hand side and left-hand (righty-loosey, lefty-tighty) on the left side could be helpful for those that have never dealt with them before.
Click to expand...
McB, good ideas, done!
 
Z

Zeeman

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Location
Bartow County Georgia
Great post that will come in handy if I ever find a good deal on a block grinder. Or, I might just have to pay the price. They sure are expensive.
 
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T

torqueman2002

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Messages
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Location
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I'll make my comments in Blue.

Zeeman said:
Great post that will come in handy if I ever find a good deal on a block grinder. Or, I might just have to pay the price. They sure are expensive.
Yeah, the eBay and even some CL prices can get stupid expensive.

It does vary a lot by location, I've found. Like in the SE Michigan area there's a steady stream of Blocks, for reasonable $$ on CL still.

I find the 1/3-HP are most reasonably priced, then the single voltage 1/2-HP. $20 - $60 range for 1/3 to 1/2-HP.

I'm betting you've found your way to the 'let's see your craftsman block grinders' thread. But, if not and you are interested in checking it out, here's a link.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157794
Click to expand...

Richard Cranium said:
Thanks for taking the time to post this up.
I think I knew that, But a good refresher.
Thanks again.
You are welcome. I gotta keep busy in retirement. ;)

Also, I can find it here when I've forgotten my way out of the garage! :willy_nil
Click to expand...
 
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Bogash

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D

drivesitfar

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DOC: Great idea for a thread and I learned one thing I didn't know so thanks for sharing. I have never had any nuts not come off with any issues, but the double nutting method on the other end of the arbor makes perfect sense.

not sure why all arbors don't have squared off ends so we can put a wrench on them, but nice to see some do.

Have you ever put on new wheels and had them wobble almost out of control either stones or wire wheels? Ziggy found a nice fix to balance his on when he rebuilt his 1HP and maybe he'll share pictures here. Outlaw mentioned a long time ago about putting 2 of the wire wheels on an end to stop any vibrations.

Ziggy: can you post your method you used to stop a wheel from shaking that you did on your 1HP?

ALL: Just curious what some of you do when you get a rusted on bolt that won't come off with any of the methods listed. do you spray kroil or other penetrant on the bolts and let that loosen it up or do tell?
 
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Bogash

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ALL: Just curious what some of you do when you get a rusted on bolt that won't come off with any of the methods listed. do you spray kroil or other penetrant on the bolts and let that loosen it up or do tell?[/QUOTE]

I use PB Blaster. Long soaks and frequent resoak if really bad. And I have found that, even with pretty good size nuts and bolts, it works to put a little electric impact on them after a soak. The vibration helps works a lot of them loose. Mine is a little DeWalt.

Then there's always heat and cool heat and cool with The Hot Wrench. One of my favorite wrenches!
 
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javie

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Missouri
Great info on block grinders. Just picked one up at an estate sale and wanted to remove one stone and mount a wire wheel. The links above have a ton of useful info, but having little experience with grinder wheels, what is a "good" wheel and where do you get them? Same with the wire brush wheel, too?

The one I picked up is a 397.19591, 1/2-hp Craftsman but nowhere on it does it say what size wheel to use, the user manual also doesn't mention anything about what size diameter/thickness wheels are recommended. It didn't come with wheels so I'm guessing they're 7-inch because this beast is just too much for smaller 6-inch but the guards don't look big enough for 8-inch. Anybody know?
 
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