Leland 3HP Motor Rebuild

Pupuhd · May 3, 2016

I'm doing a rebuild for a fellow OWWM member njtool of a Leland Faraday 3HP, 1Ph electric motor. From what I was told this motor is part of a Dewalt thickness planer. Prior to disassembly I did hook it up to 220v and it ran fine, one of the bearings made noise. You'll see later the grease in both bearings had ran out so might be they're both dry now after nearly half century. I was also told the vintage of this planer is 1953. If anyone has any suggestions of actual build year based on the motor badge or other info on the motor, please post.

Motor is not a basket case, typical surface rust and rodent occupation inside, overall this thing is a beast in size and weight. For this rebuild I'll follow most of the steps done in my two previous large motor rebuilds: Century Electric 1hp motor (http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=311993) and GE Triclad 3hp motor (http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318176). There'll be tons of photos due to my CRS and reassembly process.

First night, disassembly of the motor for examination, cleanup and followed by media blasting. I managed to stupidly carry this motor from the driveway to the kitchen, was a lot heavier than it looks, solid cast end bells, base, electric box plus center section. I'm always curious to see how much these old Arns weight in at, however my electronic scale just crapped out. Either way, I'll way it once it's all done. Taking down to my shop I used my electric handtruck which walks it down the steps, then hoisted it up to the workbench using my gantry crane.

Pupuhd · May 3, 2016

One thing I noticed regarding the weight of this motor is how well built the individual parts are made. For example the electric box is a heavy 1/4" thick cast steel/iron, along with the end-bells, base and capacitor housing. Also the heavy 1/8" thick cork.

One find I noticed after removing the base on the bottom of the stator section is the numbers "6507" stamped in yellow paint. Don't know thinking 1965, July, however I could way off on this

Pupuhd · May 4, 2016

Next came taking the end-bell covers off and inner shield removed. The through bolts are in great condition considering the age of this motor. Inside was the evidence of the former tenants mostly insulation to keep warm.

Shaft end-bell cover has one wavy washer only, no other types of washers.

Centrifugal switch end has four spacer washers. Switch is again in great condition with no visible aging or damage along with internal wires.

Pupuhd · May 4, 2016

Btw, I forgot to include this short video before beginning disassembly. I wired it to my 220V test switch box. At startup you can see some of the internal debri flying out the rear. Also you can possibly hear the bad rattling bearing. I decided to use a Vibrometer app on my phone to see what the vibration of it running before rebuild versus later after rebuild. Meter on top of motor reads at 4.4:

http://vid585.photobucket.com/album...Leland 3HP/Leland 3HP Motor Initial Start.mp4

Pupuhd · May 4, 2016

Next the rotor was removed. Again no damage or wear just rust on the shaft and other minor places. Again even the rotor itself has some weight to it. Heaviest one that I'v done to date.

Bearings were pulled off and you can see the grease has broken down and leaking out of the bearing shields.

Pupuhd · May 15, 2016

Catching up here from last weeks work. After blowing out all debri from the inside of the stator section, I noticed the rodents had chewed some of the winding wrapping and string. The copper windings were untouched, however I decided at this point to revarnish the windings as a precaution.

I used the same product as in my Century Electric 1hp motor rebuild, Red Insulation Varnish by MG Chemicals. This comes in a small 225 ml./7.6 fl. oz. can and will do two fairly large motors like these. Two coats were applied and set aside for a few days to off gas and cure properly before media blasting.

Some of the color tape around the wires were loose, so clear heat shrink tubing was applied to all to secure.

While the varnish was curing, I took this time to prep some smaller items for media blasting. Any slotted fastners I usually try to save, repair and clean up. Most hex bolts are not worth the trouble and new ones are used, however I like the look of vintage slotted screws on a rebuild. First I file all burrs and oops near the slotted area and clean up the heads with a small jewelers file. Then take a pass with the Scothbrite wheel before going into the media blasting cabinet. These with other small items will be blasted with #9 glass beads to peen and shine up the surface.

Pupuhd · May 15, 2016

This week the rotor was next to be worked on. The bearing surfaces on both ends of the shaft were in good condition, no rust or damaged. These were taped off for the first step in the media blasting. With this step, Glass Abrasive #100 is used to remove any minor surface rust and clean up all the surfaces for the final media blasting with Glass Bead #9.

I have a short video of some of the this blasting being done, however I need to edit and post later. In the mean time here are after photos of the stator after blasting with the glass abrasive. Except for the larger disk fan all surfaces were blasted and cleaned. This gives it a uniform smooth semi-dull finish.

Some of the heavier rust on the inner part of the shaft was pitted and no amount of blasting will remove that, however all steel now is void of rust and dirt.

Pupuhd · May 15, 2016

Also in the first media blast batch the centrifugal switch was done and all small parts and fasteners that will not be painted later. One great thing about blasting with fine abrasives like this, is that parts like the centrifugal switch are cleaned thoroughly. The contact points on the switch would never be so clean with any other process.

Pupuhd · May 15, 2016

The next step in this process is media blasting with Glass Bead #9. This will peen the surface metal to better protect form any corrosion and also bring out a sheen to the surface. This is not a polished finished, for that finer glass beads can be used, however it should be near original with the bare metal. Either way everything will be coated later.

Here the rotor is done first, you can make out the now new reflection on the various surfaces.

The centrifugal switch and other small parts were also done. The copper and brass surfaces on the switch really shine up with this step.

Pupuhd · May 15, 2016

The metal plate stacks inside the stator were also cleaned up with the Glass Bead #9. The female matting surface was just done with a wire wheel to clean up some minor rust and grime.

Afterwards, the blasting cabinet was changed over to course abrasive for the final blasting. All the cast iron components, stator (interiror & exterior metal wall only) were all blasted.

Afterwards, the blasting cabinet was changed over to course abrasive for the final blasting. All the cast iron components, stator (interiror & exterior metal wall only) were all blasted.

Pupuhd · May 15, 2016

Afterwards, the blasting cabinet was changed over to course abrasive for the final blasting. All the cast iron components, stator (interiror & exterior metal wall only) were all blasted.

I don't think I ever showed photos of my knock-down home made paint booth in my other threads. Because of the small footprint of my shop, I always think what can I hide, put on wheels or make smaller. This gave me the idea of making a paint booth I can fold away when not in use. It's made from heavy 1/4" thick cardboard, hot glue, duct tape and velcro.

The paint booth folds flat and can be stored away. When opened two 30x24 inch filters are inserted at an angle at the back. A 6" hose is snugged in with pipe insulation through a hole at top. The bottom section or base is 3/4" plywood with a 24" diameter piece on a lazy-susan turntable.

The other end of the hose is connected to my Delta Air Filer. Another non-foldable cardboard box houses two additional 12x24 filters, then the whole thing slips onto the Delta air filter. On the exhaust of the air filter one carbon filter is taped to eliminate any odors.

Pupuhd · May 15, 2016

Even though I had the spray paint booth setup, I did very little spraying, mostly to filter the enamel paint odors through the charcoal filter. All the oil base metal primer was brushed by hand. Again a much better application than rattle cans. Thicker mil paint applied with one coat, a lot cheaper than rattle cans and also for non-smooth cast parts the brushed paint gets into all the nooks and crannies of the part. You would need a ton of coats from a rattle can to get the same results.

Like my previous motor rebuilds, between coats all parts were baked in the oven. This allows me to apply several coats per day as supposed to wait 24 hours between coats. The only exception is the stator section. This was too heavy, awkward and massive to safely put into the oven.

After one hour at 250 degrees, the parts are moved to the outside of the stove to cool down before the next coat of paint.

The stator section was left one the bench to prime, interior final gray enamel and first coat of Valspar Tractor & Implement MF Red paint. I used long 3/8" bolts to stand off top of bench. This allows to paint around the whole exterior perimeter.

Pupuhd · May 16, 2016

Paint complete: one coat of primer, two coats of enamel in Gray and MF Red. Now to let all parts cure for a few days before handling, especially the stator since it wasn't baked in the oven to initially dry quicker.

Pupuhd · May 17, 2016

While paint is curing, took this time to remove all the blue tape off and clean glue residue. Also base four pads hit with scotchbrite on the buffer. All bare metal surfaces were brushed with ACF-50. Tomorrow I'll wipe off the excess, still leaving a light film on.

jhnlngn · May 17, 2016

Thanks for posting this. I love rebuild threads.

Pupuhd · May 20, 2016

New Nachi bearings were provided by the owner of this motor, njtool. These were pressed onto the end shaft in preparation for final assembly.

At this point the female mating surface and metal stacks were wiped with ACF-50. Hard to see in the photo the difference in bare metal finish.

The bolts for the base were in good condition however washers and lock washers were replaced with new. Base bolted to starter section using blue thread lock-tite. NOTE: Even though I'm currently beginning assembly, I'm taking great care not to do any damage to the paint. I'm no expert on paint chemistry, but from what I've research, it can take a minimum of thirty days or much longer for oil base enamel paint to harden and cure properly. The paint is dry to handle however like I said before you have to be extra careful not to ding, bump, scratch or damage the surface in any way before it properly hardens.

All assembly is now done on either clean rags or cardboard on the workbench.

Pupuhd · May 20, 2016

Tonight had a chance to continue the final assembly. First I drilled and tapped for a 10-32 threaded hole for the ground screw. This will get mounted on the inside wall of the stator section.

A #10 diameter hole by 10-12 crimp ring connector is crimped onto a #10 green wire. This will be mounted to a salvage ground screws from old metal boxes with a star-washer. I purchased a kit of ring connectors off of ebay which contains an assortment of sizes. This pretty much covers any scenario I can come across.

The ground wire is bolted on the inside, the paint around the threaded hole is scraped to bare metal for direct connection to the stator wall. All the wires were then fed through the side hole and zip tide together.

On the outside the one half of the electric box is installed with the cork casket in between, same bolts and new washers with lock-tite. The wires are wired together for 220v hookup. I use crimp wire nuts for a more secure connection. At this time the motor badge is installed with new #4 drive screws.

Before quitting I decide to slip in the stator for looks. Starting to look real sweet now.

larry4406 · May 21, 2016

Very nice!

Please share details of your blasting set up and the various grits you use and why.

Pupuhd · May 21, 2016

Next is installing the stator to the shaft end-bell cover. Spring washer installed in bearing race, below is a before and after shot of that area. Big difference, right?

The fan shield and rotor are slipped into place, then the whole assembly installed into the stator section. It's aligned and gently tapped in with a soft blow hammer.

One detail I decided to change on the centrifugal switch is to reverse the two wires coming off the end, one is shorter than the other. When I disassembled this originally I noticed the shorter one connected to another red wire by a yellow wire nut inside the motor housing. This red wire then fed through the top hole into the capacitor housing. I believe this motor might have been taken apart early in it's life, possibly a capacitor related repair. This is why the yellow wire nut is inside the motor and to me a potential point of failure, which would mean taking the motor apart to get to this wire nut.

In this photo you can see the yellow wire nut inside the motor housing near the top.

The shorter wire will now feed through the side hole into the electrical box and the longer one through the top hole into the capacitor housing. All connection points will now be accessible.

Pupuhd · May 23, 2016

larry4406 said:
Very nice!

Please share details of your blasting set up and the various grits you use and why.

I had a similar request for my other motor rebuild thread, however I never got around to creating a new thread for that. Give me a bit to get some photos and notes together on that subject and I'll get back with a brief response on this thread.

David

Pupuhd · May 25, 2016

I managed a few days ago to complete final assembly on this motor. Began with electric end of the end-bell cover. Spacer washers cleaned and centrifugal switch with plastic spacer installed. Nice thing about leaving all those fasteners and parts soaking in PB Blaster, is that I noticed they darker up a bit from initial clean up in the media cabinet. I'm guessing the penetrating oil has time to soak into the pores of the steel.

Before and after shot of inside of end-bell cover.

Had to do some resoldering for the red wire on the two capacitors. Now the two connections are outside the motor housing and tied together with crimp wire nuts.

Wire diagram label in reglued to the inside of the outer electric box.

Pupuhd · May 25, 2016

PART 1: Final assembly complete, everything installed and bolted tight. After and before photos for your viewing.

Pupuhd · May 25, 2016

PART 2: Final assembly complete, everything installed and bolted tight. After and before photos for your viewing.

Video of it running to follow. Working on a pair of plywood skids to bolt to base for transportation.

Trey T · May 25, 2016

awesome job

Pupuhd · May 26, 2016

Video of first startup after rebuild. Vibration is a hair less at 4.2 compared to initial 4.4 on Vibrometer app. No big improvement, however no more rattling noise from dried bearings. Overall a very smooth running motor, even at this monster size of 3HP, quieter than most modern day **** motors under 1hp.

http://vid585.photobucket.com/albums/ss292/temuba/Motor-Leland%203HP/Leland%203HP%20Motor%20Final%20Start.mp4

Before video for comparison. Enjoy.

http://vid585.photobucket.com/albums/ss292/temuba/Motor-Leland%203HP/Leland%203HP%20Motor%20Initial%20Start.mp4

Pupuhd · May 26, 2016

Final look before delivery. 2x4s were bolted to base for easier transport from basement shop to back of my truck. This setup allows me to have two straps hooked up to the chain hoist to lower to floor. Later it will be mounted onto my electric hand truck which will "walk" it upstairs, then onto the tail gate of the truck.

Now down on the floor, a comparison of old school versus old-newer school. On the right I picked this up on ebay for $30 a few months ago, a circa 1920s Repulsion Induction Century Electric 1-1/2 HP motor versus on the left a circa 1950s Leland Farady 3 HP capacitor motor. The Leland looks like a walk in the park compared to the rebuild for the Century. Again thanks for all the interest and comments, enjoy.

Pantsfall_McFixit · May 26, 2016

Excellent restore! Looking forward to the next one too

larry4406 · May 27, 2016

Very nice. The "electric hand truck" sounds interesting.

PCMusicGuy · May 27, 2016

Great work. You obviously have some experience and quite a bit of knowledge of these. Would you mind if I sent you a PM about a neglected old electric grinder motor? I'd like your opinion on what I should do to make sure it is cleaned properly and runs well.

jhnlngn · May 27, 2016

Aren't the old ones just so much cooler? Hope you do a thread on that one too. I should post some of my rehab projects on here.

Pupuhd · May 27, 2016

larry4406 said:
Very nice. The "electric hand truck" sounds interesting.

Thanks. Hopefully the motor should be out sometime this coming week. I'll get some shots of the setup getting it out the basement, upstairs and onto the truck.

PCMusicGuy said:
Great work. You obviously have some experience and quite a bit of knowledge of these. Would you mind if I sent you a PM about a neglected old electric grinder motor? I'd like your opinion on what I should do to make sure it is cleaned properly and runs well.

I'm no expert on motors. I know how to rebuild them, however somewhat limited to the electrical jargon side of it. Most of the work you see has been from a lot of online research and trial and error, but thanks. Go ahead, email me instead at [email protected] and lets see if we can figure something out. David

jhnlngn said:
Aren't the old ones just so much cooler? Hope you do a thread on that one too. I should post some of my rehab projects on here.

I also have a smaller 1/8hp of that Century Electric motor. I love the waffle end-bell cover on these. Even though I don't know what this one will be assigned to, I just couldn't resist it for $30. When I get to this one, I'll definitely will be posting a thread on it, I'm assuming many will have interest. In the meantime I'll be working on the badge reproduction thread followed by some other rebuilds in queue. Thanks-David

Pantsfall_McFixit said:
Excellent restore! Looking forward to the next one too

Thank you. I'm continuing with my badge reproduction thread for a bit followed by some quick and smaller rebuilds before I start a major rebuild on a 1974 Clausing 15" drill press.

jhnlngn · May 28, 2016

Most of my projects so far have been on fractional horse Delta motors, but I do have a few other brands and bigger sizes in the queue.

torqueman2002 · May 28, 2016

Pupuhd - very well done!

Great explanation and documentation. I love the videos of the motors starting up and spinning down.

The mechanical sounds that a centrifugal-switch motor makes, is music to my ears.

I did get a kick out of the swarf that blew out on the start-up, before the rebuild/restore.

I have used Valspar Tractor & Implement red paint, it is very durable, but takes time to completely dry.

Pupuhd · May 30, 2016

larry4406 said:
Very nice. The "electric hand truck" sounds interesting.

Here's a short video of the electric hand truck in action. The Leland motor is on it's way out the basement shop upstairs for final destination. My son did the video recording. Enjoy-David

http://vid585.photobucket.com/albums/ss292/temuba/Motor-Leland 3HP/Electric Hand Truck 2.mp4

Leland 3HP Motor Rebuild

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