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SoCal Sawdust

sfanale

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Hi All,

As is often the story, longtime lurker, short time poster! I purchased my house in San Diego several years ago with the intention of getting into the garage and convert it to my full time shop. Of course, as the work on the inside of the how progressed, the garage project slid further and further away. Three and half years in, the house is finished and its time to get into the garage!

Basic models for planning purposes:
35950840375_5ecafb0e81_c.jpg


35141444143_2ccb9867f1_c.jpg


Actual photos:

backwall
35562432350_4fa073afef_c.jpg


doorway and side wall
35110927524_f53949ca5d_c.jpg


opposite side wall
35562440630_efe3314f6a_c.jpg


I couldn't help myself but to start organizing before I took photos. I caught myself in the middle and grabbed a couple cell phone shots to make sure to capture its current state. It's far too disorganized for my tastes, but I couldn't worry about until now since I needed a place to stage all the major house projects and house my classic car. Soon the classic car will be gone. I wish I could say I am sad to see it go, but honestly, I would rather have the full garage for a shop than the car so... bon voyage!

Anyway, that's where I stand now. First project is getting some lights up... updates to come soon.
 
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wasfast

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Hello from Rancho Bernardo. What is your overall plan for your garage? Just organize and add lighting or finish it out (electrical, insulation, drywall, floor, etc.)?
 
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sfanale

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Hello from Rancho Bernardo. What is your overall plan for your garage? Just organize and add lighting or finish it out (electrical, insulation, drywall, floor, etc.)?

The overall plan is to fully convert my garage into a shop where I can do wood/metal work. That involves some damage repair, full electrical, and then a mess of organizing/building. I want to epoxy paint the floor, get to wiring up everything to handle shop tools (dust collection, moderate power tools, small welder, 20a outlets etc...) then throw up some wall covering (either OSB or drywall, undecided). No insulation is really required, weather is pretty temperate here in San Diego. Final stage would be to start building shop furniture and get working.

The only holdback is that during all of this transition I have to maintain a functioning garage, so it has to happen in thought out stages...
 
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sfanale

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I was able to spend a little time temporarily fixing the lighting situation so I can work at night and make progress other than Sat/Sun. Here you can see the poor lighting I was dealing with:



You can see pretty clearly, even with the garage door open during the day, there was basically nothing. Full garage cave status. I had some leftovers from a previous lighting project so I got to work wiring those temporarily into the existing single circuit I have:

Cans went up:


Then a few hours later, retrofit LEDs went in and I flipped the switch:




In that final picture, I still havent wired up the last row of lights, so I only have 8 of the 12 installed, but already, the effect is huge. Now, I am aware that the lighting debate is HEAVILY contested all across GJ, but my rationale for going with LED retrofits breaks down as follows:
  1. I already had the housing and 14/2 wire
  2. LED retrofits are pretty cheap right now and can be found in 5000K
  3. I wanted to maintain as much headspace as possible because my joists are less an 8' off the deck
  4. To a small degree, energy efficiency. My whole house is LED, so I figured, why not do the garage too.

These are the actual LEDs I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GL03KHW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

1200 lumen, 5000K color, 85+ CRI, and ending up @ just over $12 per unit. I know I could get more total lumens with T8 fixtures and maybe the $/lumen cost would be lower, but this route let me use up my stock of spare parts and frankly, is enough light for me to do what I need to do. There are a few spots where I will add specific extra cans for my eventual workbench and over the sink to make sure the trouble spots are covered. Overall, I have been working at night in the garage for this whole week, and I am stoked with the outcome. :rocker:
 
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sfanale

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This weekend I was pretty motivated and went after tackling repairs to some of the termite damage on the back wall of the garage:



You cannot really see it in the above photo, but subterranean termites made there way up the siding on the outside of the house and did a good bit of work on a few of the interior studs. The first thing I did when I moved in was have the surrounding foundation of the house drilled for ST, but I never got to the interior repairs. Most of the garage is enclosed with that **** fake wood looking panels, so after I cleared the shelves & my drill press, I ripped the paneling down to expose the damage:



The little bastards had managed to eat almost entirely through one stud, ground to header and partially another. They also managed to get through the entire end of a section of the header in the back left corner. Basically, I went through every stud, header, and cross brace carefully with my hammer and screwdriver looking for weakpoints. Then I replaced all the damaged parts with new studs:

Damage to the exterior siding which I had to replace:


Everything back to scratch and good to go:


If you are wondering why I put that new stud super close to the existing studs on the right had side, its because it gave me a nice clean place to nail the replacement siding panel on the exterior. I have board and batten siding along the outside, so that lined up nice with the seam on the outside and made the repair easy. Looks goofy inside, but who cares.

You can see the new wood in the header on the top left. The eaten piece was previously cut short right over one of the vertical studs, so I assume someone made a repair previously. When I moved in, this corner of the roof leaked pretty bad and I can see some evidence of water, so who knows what really happened from 1952 until now???

As a side note: does anyone know if that small vent in the wall is required by any CA code? I have a whirlybird in the roof of the garage, so do I need to keep that little wall vent? Its in pretty poor shape and instead of replacing it, I would rather remove it all together... Anyone know?
 
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sfanale

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Since I cleared a space in the back corner and repaired the termite damage, I was ready to move my workbench over (temporarily) and get moving towards installing my sub-panel. I ripped the hole bench off its existing wall and dragged it across the garage to the back. Then I hung some pegboard and started moving tools so I still have a place to work while the transformation continues.

New [old] workbench:


Here is where the bench came from:


After the bench and pegboard was out of the way, I started ripping down the 1" thick wood paneling on the interior to expose where the feed from my main panel is hidden. Now I have a place to throw my sub panel up. What do you guys think about the proximity to the gas and water lines running in the adjacent bay? Should I be cautious about locating the sub panel right next to those?
 

sawduststeve

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Hi from Bonita! Judging by the wood bridging and no building paper behind the siding, I'd guess your home was built early 50's?
If I had to guess I'd say 1952. :)

Good work sfanale , those termites look like large buggers we tend to suffer from wood worm, smaller but just as destructive.
Looking forward to seeing your progress. :thumbup:
 
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sfanale

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Hi from Bonita! Judging by the wood bridging and no building paper behind the siding, I'd guess your home was built early 50's?

Correct guess! I think 1952, but I had issues getting original plans for my tract of homes from the city. Talking to the neighbors its 1952-1958.

Its been some fun work making fixes to little things here and there. Discovering the entire interior of the house was built with 2x3s was a fun one, consider all the ramifications of that given practically all building materials today are based on 2x4 construction. Its not impossible to handle, just adds to the complexity. No insulation anywhere either, though the house does have some old tar paper before the board and batten went up.
 
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The Tool Tyrant

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As a side note: does anyone know if that small vent in the wall is required by any CA code? I have a whirlybird in the roof of the garage, so do I need to keep that little wall vent? Its in pretty poor shape and instead of replacing it, I would rather remove it all together... Anyone know?

Yes, that's for 'Combustion air' for the water heater and anything else with a gas flame. Newer codes call for 1 low and 1 high.:thumbup:
 
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sfanale

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Yes, that's for 'Combustion air' for the water heater and anything else with a gas flame. Newer codes call for 1 low and 1 high.:thumbup:

Thanks Tool Fool. That's what I was assuming and what my Dad said. I think I will simply relocate it so it isn't under my feet at the workbench.
 
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sfanale

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They do sell 2 x 3's at the local home centers as they are used for patio covers. FYI mostly.

Yup, and they sell shallow versions of remodel boxes, GFCI outlets, but I had to cut my door frames by hand since the off the shelf stuff is built to 2x4. Just adds to the complexity of thought when planning things. Luckily, the garage is all 2x4! :thumbup:
 
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sfanale

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I had to take today off work while I waited for some fence supplies to be delivered to my house. I figured I might as well make the time useful, so I attempted to drive two grounding rods outside my garage for the soon to be sub-panel. No matter what I have tried to haven't been able to get a rod more than 4 feet down.

At first, I just started with a big hammer, the first three feet I practically drove in one blow. Then it was a little harder from there, but each hit got me another inch or so. Just around 4 feet, I hit a hard spot and the rod stops dead. I figured I just hit harder soil or a rock or something so I grabbed my little 3lb sledge. Nothing.

At this point, I draw the grounding rod all the way back out and try a different spot, exact same thing, so I am not hitting a rock. I draw the rod back out, move about 12" inches away from the foundation and try again. Same thing. I remove it fully and this time try to drive it on an angle... 4 feet then stuck.

I saw some videos online suggesting that I soak the ground for a while with the hose, I clear the rod out of the way and let the hose run for about 45 minutes. The water wasn't just flooding out of the hole all over the ground, so some volume of it must have soaked down the holes I made in my first 4 attempts. I try driving the rod again, 4 feet.

That was about half my day gone... I assumed it was just a matter of brute force so I ran to HD and rented a 35lb jack hammer with the grounding rod tip. After throwing that on the top of the half driven rod, I flip it on and seriously HANG on the handles, it doesn't budge an inch further down into the ground than 4 feet.

$60 in for the rental and I am starting to get mad, so I hit YouTube and google to see if I can find an answer. One video suggests building a water jet type contraption with 3/4" conduit and a hose. SOOOOOOO back to HD to buy a 10' length of conduit and a female-female hose adapter. I sink that into the ground, fire up the hose, and start ramming it up and down. Water is spraying everywhere and flooding out of the hole, but it is slowly moving down. UNTIL I HIT ABOUT 4 FEET AND IT STOPS DEAD.

I am out of ideas on how to get these rods into the ground... anyone have any suggestions? I tried another spot around the side of the garage and ran into the exact same issue. At 4 feet deep the rod is VERY stuck in the dirt, it takes me a hell of a lot of twisting and pulling to draw it back out. When it finally releases, there is very sticky, wet clay on the rod, so my suspicion is the dirt is just VERY SOLID CLAY down there. Ideally, I would really like the rods to be driven here since this puts them right outside the panel wall:





You can see I have both rods just stuck in the mud there... Neither will drive any further despite my full days effort. Previously, when an electrician replaced my main panel he drove two grounding rods the same distance off the foundation, so theoretically, it should be possible. Anyone have some ideas for me to try? :headscrat
 

Bib Overalls

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I have seen electricians run grounding rods in hard soil by putting water in the starting hole and aggressively lifting and dropping the rod.

If all else fails you could dig down to the hard pan with a post hole digger and then bend the rod 180 so you have an above ground stub and the rest of the rod covered with dirt. Grounding rods work best when they are in moist soil. This might not be the approved way to do it but dry hard clay is not as conductive as the loose, moist soil above.
 

RobSmith

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This is my joke ( so you don't get upset) For a start...build your wife a Laundry and get that stuff out of your workspace...otherwise it will end up like a "house" storage space. Christmas decorations,garden furniture, lawn mowers....arrrrgh !! Save your self before you become an accessory. ;)
 
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sfanale

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This is my joke ( so you don't get upset) For a start...build your wife a Laundry and get that stuff out of your workspace...otherwise it will end up like a "house" storage space. Christmas decorations,garden furniture, lawn mowers....arrrrgh !! Save your self before you become an accessory. ;)

Well... if I want to spend any amount of time out there, compromises must be made...
 
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sfanale

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Ive been a little buried at work and some alternate projects have distracted me from finishing the garage wiring.

When I bought my house, it was in rough shape in every way, landscaping and curb appeal included. I am on a not so calm street corner so one bedroom window and the kitchen window face out to the sidewalk... Makes everything feel very public plus there is hundreds of square feet of yard just wasted. Alas, the fencing project was born!

I started where I usually do which is looking for design source material on GJ and google. I choose to go with a modern design for the fence using metal posts and horizontal slats. The idea here is that the gate blends in from the outside and maintains the consistent look of the whole thing overall:



Since I have 8 foot spans between posts, I will need some vertical support to keep things lined up and hopefully looking good:



I have a chronic back injury so digging post holes and general hard manual labor just don't agree with me these days. Instead, I found a landscaping contractor to take on the project. They started off mostly with dead grass and mixed surfaces. I nabbed this photo right after the contractors had already started scraping up the grass:



Then some more grading and the fence posts went in. In case you are wondering, the posts are 9' long, 4"x4" square, 1/8" wall steel painted with rustoleum before they went into the ground. I have matching caps, but they aren't on the posts just yet:



The contractors came up with a neat way to stabalize the posts while the concrete dried. Worked like a charm:


They also had to trench around the house and get some irrigation into the area, but I didn't get any good progress shots of that since it was done in a day while I was gone at work. Today when I got home, the gravel was starting to be shoveled in:



The rest of this week should go quickly as they are getting ready to drill and mount the furring strips to each post, then start attaching the cedar planks. Updates to come!
 
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sfanale

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To fully finish the landscaping story, I have to go back in time to in another area of the back yard where my girlfriend and I started working a few months ago to build out a nice seating area with a cast concrete firepit. Started pretty rough over there also:





And before you say it... the grass! I know, it was a hot summer in Southern California... I was doing my part to conserve and stopped watering heavily for a while. The grass was not happy. :(

We started by breaking up the large sidewalk slab, then grading, and grading, and grading, and more grading to get the whole area flat and sloped away from the garage. It seemed like an easy job when we conceived it, but the dirt here is hard as heck and full of rocks, so it took weeks of putting in an hour here, an hour there, to get it done. Didn't help we tried to avoid paying for a dumpster so we were tossing chunks of concrete and buckets of dirt one trash can a week!

Eventually, we got it all graded down"


We chopped in a straight line to cast a border against the grass and two extra tall posts were cemented into the ground:


After a hard week of rain, the soil was nice and soft, so I trenched in two directions to lay my gas lines where I would eventually need them; one for the impending firepit and one for a future built in grill location:


Then, some couple of months later, the I cast my firepit in place. I made a nice square MDF mold for the outside and second mold for the inside to create the desired shape. In the photo below I had already started to pop the outside mold. You can still see the lower mold, and the inside mold. Also, note that dandy little curb in the background containing the grass which as partially recovered!


Here is a top down, once I had removed the interior mold. What white PVC runs from where its connected to the gas valve in the interior open space, through the concrete to the decorative valve cover:


Note I managed to think ahead and even get the valve cover cast into the notch so it sits all nice and neat:


I might have popped the molds a little too early because a few of the corners cracked off as I was pulling the notch parts of the mold out. I also ran a variety of vibrating types of power tools against the sides along with what seems like hours of gentle hammer tapping to try and get the bubbles out, but alas... I failed. Still happy with the result as it was a learning experience for me to work with concrete in this style, so overall: :thumbup:

That brings us up to day, the burner and fireglass are in, but the area is half construction zone while the cedar is prepped for the fence. Once the fencing materials are out of the way, this project will get finished up as the landscaping contractor is also delivering the pea gravel for this firepit area:

 
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sfanale

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Had a productive Memorial Day weekend; both the side yard fence and firepit areas are finished for now:

34154245474_c064f275ab_b.jpg


Gravel in for the firepit. I just need to build the furniture and planter boxes so this area can be called DONE:

34154246114_754932d1d7_b.jpg
 
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sfanale

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Been a little busy working on things around the house and in the garage lately. Right to the point--I got the electrical wrapped up and all the lights installed, including a few right over my work bench:

35365871181_c617b52f32_c.jpg


Ive got a temporary peg-board situation going on right now:
35329506572_9d731c7afa_c.jpg


I wired up the lights in three banks so I have control over what lights when:
35365870711_29b47a72bd_c.jpg


Also finished up the firepit:
35457146626_8d360f31fa_c.jpg



manged to get the fence gate to mostly just blend in:
34154244584_89ab6c8593_c.jpg


From the inside:
35457076896_557c14f20c_c.jpg

Note I have some plumbing there now for future raised bed planters which i will be building down the line.
 
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sfanale

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With all those projects wrapped up, I finally have some free time to get back into the garage. I started off with building a tool cart to get some of my smaller tools (planner, spindle sander, disc sander, etc...) off the ground and organized. I was inspired by these videos:

I liked the idea of the sliders of the second video, but decided to keep things simple. My design included integrated power and storage drawers. Here is a kindergarten-level schematic of the idea (eat your heart out industrial designers!):

35457297826_8627e86814_c.jpg


I had three sheets of very high quality 3/4" Baltic-birch plywood I scavenged from some shipping crates at work, so I planned to build using only those and other scraps. I want to buy as little as possible in an effort to clean out my abundance of saved lumber and sheet stock.

Note the 2" recess for the outlet box and extension cord storage as well as the opening for drawers. The vertical rectangle with arrows on the left side is only temporary support to keep the left wall at 90degrees while the glue dried. Once I build the flip-top mechanism, I will remove it:
35457296946_fc6fe87d0d_c.jpg


35329695762_4328e3315f_c.jpg


Given the size of the drawers to-be, I am going to build them tough with 1/2" ply using finger joint corners. I happen to also have about a half sheet of 1/2" pre-finished cabinet grade ply laying around from a previous project so still no $$$ spent!

My planer and spindle sander probably add up to about 115lbs total and they will both reside over the open side, so I was concerned the base plate might start to flex overtime. There is only a 24" wide sheet of plywood laying flat and the locking casters are set pretty far apart for stability, so I built a mini torsion box under the bottom plate to stiffen up the bottom:
35329696342_1288478e6f_c.jpg


I sealed that up with another plate of scrap plywood to fully enclose the torsion box and make it REEAAALLL stiff. Worked like a charm. I sat my 200+lbs right on the middle of the cart and I couldn't feel any give at all. I am still concerned that left wall will rack once there is weight in the flip-top, but I will address that once I have the tools mounted and can be certain corner braces won't interfere with the functionality.
 
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sfanale

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Did you use bags of concrete for the fire pit, now many? Lots of nice improvements you have done.
I used the standard 90lbs quikrete bags from HD. I think it took 8 bags IIRC... It was enough bags that after mixing the third, I ran to HD to rent an electric barrel mixer!
 
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sfanale

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Put in a few hours this week and finished up the fliptop tool cart. First item on the agenda was to mill up parts for 3 drawers:
35430567202_53a066770c_c.jpg


With all the joinery cut and test fit, I glued up the boxes with matching 1/2" bottoms. I used pre-finished plywood for all the drawer sides and bottoms. Unfortunately, my scrap pile came up short on plywood for the drawer bottoms so I had to buy that new. However, I found some damaged half sheets of matching 1/2" pre-finished plywood in the offcut area of my local lumber yard so it only cost me $28--though now I have more scrap in the pile! 22" over-travel drawer slides installed (note the direction of these drawers, save that for the "lessons learned" on this project):
34789992193_6f84b4b62f_c.jpg


Next came the fliptop itself. I built a torsion box, however, I later regretted it (again, see lessons learned). The narrow channel in the middle was spaced to fit a length of 1/2 black pipe as an axle:
35560109296_089a664e6b_c.jpg


Once the skeleton of the torsion box was built, it was glued up using hardwood edging and mitered corners. That might seem crazy for shop furniture, but...
  1. Wouldn't you know...I had an old board of walnut left over from another project! It was starting to warp, so this was a good project to clear it out of the garage.
  2. Hardwood edges intentionally gave me really good material to drive screws into when the eventual hardware was put in place.

What's that about woodworkers saying you can never have too many clamps?
34789992843_76f08e2263_c.jpg


Fliptop installed and tested (another lesson learned):
35598815555_9259cb99a9_c.jpg


I also installed these nice butterfly clasp things (I dont know the proper name???). We often receive devices at work which are shipped in custom built crates using this type of hardware. For years I have been scavenging the crates for the good stuff and I have saved up a nice collection of these little guys. This was the perfect application! I even saved the screws to be reused!
35598813065_49f58332f5_c.jpg


I milled and glued up drawer faces, again with walnut edging. This time, just because I could. I had a bit left over from the original board, so I figured I would have some fun and dress this baby up with matching trim:
35598815005_7baa7b7496_c.jpg


Drawer faces installed with handles. I tried to pick the best of what was left from the scrap plywood I started with, but I couldn't find anything without holes. I think it just adds to the charm, especially when its wrapped in expensive wood!
34789997793_15c00c5161_c.jpg


ANNNDDD here it is, basically finished (also literally finished with 3 coats of waterbased poly). I added a 50ft extension cord wired into an outlet box so I can easily plug things in as needed:
35598814345_97e8def119_c.jpg


35598813645_e2586ec7e6_c.jpg


One of the drivers for the dimensions of this cart was finding a good place to store this giant #7 Record hand plane. At 22" long, it doesn't fit much of anywhere easily, but that is why I built such mega drawers!:
34789997103_fb63d60db9_c.jpg


On to the lessons learned for this project:
  1. I should have built the drawers to open towards the front of the cart, not the side. I think I originally designed it like that because I wanted to the two sides of support against the fliptop to stabilize it. However, in practice it makes it so that the drawers cannot be opened when it is pushed into place against my workbench.
  2. The torsion box fliptop was a nice idea, but in reality, not only was it harder to build, but it prevented me from hiding the mounting hardware for the machines. Had I used a solid top of sandwiched plywood, I would have been able to countersink the nuts and keep them out of the way.
  3. Using a blackpipe axle worked perfectly, however, I forgot to mark out and drill its location on the edging before I wrapped the torsion box up. This pushed me to do some really careful measuring and "guess" drilling from the outside. I was surprisingly accurate and everything worked out, but the above mentioned plywood sandwich would have been more straight forward. I could still wrap it in walnut for style points!
  4. The replaceable hardboard top under the disc sander was pointless. I figured it might take a beating over time and need replacing, but because the sander is mounted with bolts that go through the hardboard, I doubt I will ever have the energy to remove the sander to change the top. That HF 10" disc sander is like 75lbs!
  5. Speaking of weight, I might go back and add a second drawer slide to each box to just make sure they can handle being totally filled with tools. 22" heavy duty over-travel slides were over $50/set at my supplier, so I went with the substantially cheaper $8 alternative. Doubling up will be plenty strong and still cost only a fraction of the price!

Total build cost = right around $95:
$58 for drawer slides and the extra 1/2" pre-finished plywood.
$6 for the hardware to bolt all the machines down.
$15 for a new can of Poly as the old can on hand had given up the goose many months ago.
$5 for the extension cord hooks
$10 for the extension cord
Everything else was pulled from existing "garage stock": butterfly hardware, 1/2" pipe, screws, and heavy duty casters all included.


This was my first true dedicated shop furniture build and overall, it was a really fun project. The fact that this was intended for the garage made the actual work of building it really relaxing. I found that removing all the stress of getting corners perfect, hiding screw heads, and making edges line up allowed me to just to just have fun building something and be free to change things on the fly. It also left me room to practice more "high end" techniques without any consequences for failure. I will 100% be building at least one more of these carts for my grinders and more storage.
 
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Bob Heine

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Basic models for planning purposes:


Actual photos:

backwall
Sfanale, I understand the importance of preserving the laundry so you might want to add some work to your list. You could create an 8'x11' laundry room with a wall close to the hinged side of the man-door extending across the garage to enclose the washer and dryer, with a second door leading into the garage.

Isolating the laundry room might be worth some atta-boys and maybe reduce the sawdust in your girlfriend's dainties (my experience is that they are sensitive about that kind of stuff). You would actually gain a little wall space on your side (unless you planned tool storage above the sink and appliances). If you made the laundry room 8-feet deep, it would still leave you with a 20-foot deep garage on that side. I think that's about as deep as the typical tract home garage.
 
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sfanale

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Sfanale, I understand the importance of preserving the laundry so you might want to add some work to your list. You could create an 8'x11' laundry room with a wall close to the hinged side of the man-door extending across the garage to enclose the washer and dryer, with a second door leading into the garage.

Isolating the laundry room might be worth some atta-boys and maybe reduce the sawdust in your girlfriend's dainties (my experience is that they are sensitive about that kind of stuff). You would actually gain a little wall space on your side (unless you planned tool storage above the sink and appliances). If you made the laundry room 8-feet deep, it would still leave you with a 20-foot deep garage on that side. I think that's about as deep as the typical tract home garage.

That is a mighty fine idea Bob! Great minds think alike because that was already in my plans, I just been working my way back into that corner. I really have to remove everything and redo the electrical plumbing in the walls, then I can put the appliances, sink, and WH back. THEN the partition walls can go up exactly has you have described. There is actually enough room for me to get 24" along the inside of the new laundry room and still pack my car on the other side for now until it finds a new home.

I was working on clearing one of the other walls today to get things organized before that project starts. I have to constantly shuffle things back and fourth as I clean one area. Looked like this this morning:
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Got it all cleared and stripped today. I just have to cut down all the wood siding for the burn pile and I am ready to pull wires into this wall so I can shuffle things back:
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sfanale

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California
Sfanale, I understand the importance of preserving the laundry so you might want to add some work to your list. You could create an 8'x11' laundry room with a wall close to the hinged side of the man-door extending across the garage to enclose the washer and dryer, with a second door leading into the garage.

Here is an initial draft of the dream layout:
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Right now its a fantasy layout, but it is something to work towards. :thumbup:
 

ptgarcia

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Alta Loma, CA
Looks like my dream garage, too!

Curious, what's the overall dimensions of your garage? Is it extra deep to accommodate the laundry area? My 3-car is similar with the laundry inside but its only a couple feet deeper on that side to make room for the machines. I'd like to add a sink then build a wall on the front side to keep things cleaner for my wife.
 

1949 caddyman

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Oct 5, 2010
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Location
Arizona
Looks like my dream garage, too!

Curious, what's the overall dimensions of your garage? Is it extra deep to accommodate the laundry area? My 3-car is similar with the laundry inside but its only a couple feet deeper on that side to make room for the machines. I'd like to add a sink then build a wall on the front side to keep things cleaner for my wife.

23.4', was in the first post.
 
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sfanale

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203
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California
Been a little delayed on garage projects because this guy finally decided to show up:

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Unfortunately, we had to spend a few days in the NICU because little one inhaled some meconium during labor and was having breathing issues. However, everything is good now; he is home with us and super happy. Hopefully, after a few weeks of practice getting the schedule down, I will have a chance to get back onto the house projects!
 

SiGmA_X

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Portland, OR
You do great work sir. That cart looks very nice, as does the fence and firepit. I only have one comment - make sure to clock your screws!

Congrats on your son, I'm sure you'll be back to working on projects soon enough.
 
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sfanale

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California
You do great work sir. That cart looks very nice, as does the fence and firepit. I only have one comment - make sure to clock your screws!

Congrats on your son, I'm sure you'll be back to working on projects soon enough.

Thanks Sigma! I hope to get back to some projects soon, I'm getting cabin fever in here changing diapers all day (and night)! What do you mean by "clock my screws"? Not familiar with that term in this context...
 

SiGmA_X

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Thanks Sigma! I hope to get back to some projects soon, I'm getting cabin fever in here changing diapers all day (and night)! What do you mean by "clock my screws"? Not familiar with that term in this context...
Ugh that sounds fun :lol_hitti I'll stick with lightly used dogs that already are house broken :pimpflash

Thomas taught me the way when I found his thread many years ago. I imagine with your eye for detail, you'll start to notice it once you know ;) You can tell the quality of a professional electrical job very quickly with the clocking of everything. Basically, screws should align in a uniform way; Some people do flats parallel to longest edge, but with electrical boxes, they always go 'up and down', unless there is a damn good reason it cannot do that. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6053522&postcount=10198

Being you like woodwork, check out some of the latest posts in Thomas' thread, he just built some sweet cabinets.
 
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