Best slide hammer? Or is there one?

Bennylava · May 10, 2017

I'm needing to get a good slide hammer. I'd like to be able to use it for different types of work, if possible. Is there a "best" slide hammer? Are there ones (or brands) to stay away from? My knowledge of slide hammers is quite lacking.

Wamsutta · May 10, 2017

OTC is pretty good with lots of attachments available separately.

48548 · May 10, 2017

I like proto, but that is just me...

2ndGearRubber · May 10, 2017

Standard OTC style kit, like $90 bucks.

Then buy the 10lb hammer attachment. Under $200 all in, and there isn't much you can't move.

Ole Slewfoot · May 10, 2017

Morgan Tuff Girl

WildwoodChuck · May 10, 2017

Another vote for OTC

Pipe · May 10, 2017

Snap on

ritestuff · May 10, 2017

S & G Tool Co. "The Slugger". It's probably the best out there.

Carquest · May 10, 2017

Any thoughts on slide sledge?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

mlum6969 · May 10, 2017

old coworker had a massive snap on one. that ones quite nice to use but also pretty pricey. the slugger is also a nice one. the otc one is ok if you're working on small cars.

warmpancakes · May 10, 2017

The slugger and snap on are the same piece, cheaper through snappy and better warranty

shockwave · May 10, 2017

I like the snap on rear axle slide hammer the best very high leverage compared to others

The otc is best with there attachments like the vise grip threads on but not as beefy as the snap on

Finky198 · May 10, 2017

S&G tool or snap on rebranded (alc keysco) if you want a big one 10 or 12 pound
The OTC is the go to for anything lighter in my experience.

I have the snappy 12 lbs a few no name 5 lbs'ers and a tool box full of puller attachments for both. It covers most thing I've come across. The 12 pounder is very useful for all sort as above... and for hubs, dents, etc.... The smaller one is great for bearings, key ways, nails, cotter pins, light body work.

xjfish · May 10, 2017

I have the OTC version/kit (I think) with a Mac Tools logo on the box. I think I paid about $300 off the truck years ago but is available for less than $100 online. I prefer the older/heavier Snap-On I've had access to at a couple shops!

xjfish · May 10, 2017

Ole Slewfoot said:
Morgan Tuff Girl

Details!?

Ole Slewfoot · May 11, 2017

9 1/2 lbs(maybe others, not sure)and a nicer grip than most. They are sometimes found ebay or swap meet. I'm sure the Snap On ones are good, but Ive never seen one of these that failed.

anndel · May 11, 2017

xjfish said:
Details!?

Here's your answer

http://www.autotoolworld.com/Morgan...gzEK-LG00nTyN2rtV4vFUdblHLtzH3BLCLhoCjCzw_wcB

doogdoog · May 11, 2017

Snap On, OTC, Proto, are the ones that I have and they are good but you will have to think about the size you will be using. The one's with the 5/8" shaft are the normally used ones and it is best to buy it as a set instead of purchasing individual accessories because of the cost. This Snap On needs a little muscle.

Mahalo,
doogdoog

Bennylava · May 11, 2017

I'll just be doing cars and light duty trucks. I'll mainly be using for auto body work.

jubilee · May 11, 2017

Got any scrap iron laying around? I made all of mine. Think I have four from about 1/2 lb. to 15 lb. Very easy to make if you have access to scrap, a way to cut and weld it.

nh_yota · May 11, 2017

I don't know which one is the best, but I'll tell you that you should look out for the design of the wheel hub adapter. I picked up a loaner slide hammer from O'Reilly two years ago to replace the front wheel bearings on my Tacoma, and the hub adapter wouldn't clear the hub so I could attach it with lug nuts. The bolt pattern fit but the recessed middle part of the hub adapter wasn't wide enough to clear the wheel hub on my Tacoma and my wheel studs weren't long enough to make it work. Everything in my truck was from the factory at that time so it's not like I had extra large hubs or extra small studs.

Finky198 · May 11, 2017

Just for reference OTC and a few others make hub adapters that cover a much broader range then the standard style that comes with the kits...

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7394-Universal-Hub-Puller/dp/B0002SRH60

You can add a plate or more legs if need be. Very capable not the cheapest but they are avail.

APEowner · May 11, 2017

I don't have a specific unit to recommend or to avoid but I suggest that you actually hold it and make sure that your had comfortably fits on both the slide and the handle without hanging off. I have a cheap one that I picked up somewhere and if I['m not careful I can get my hand in between the slide and the handle or, if I adjust my grip to avoid that in between the slide and the slide shaft. Both of which hurt like a son of a gun.

Bennylava · May 15, 2017

Well how about a good "bang for the buck" slide hammer? When I started this thread, I didn't think that slide hammers would be all that expensive. Should have known better.

Ole Slewfoot · May 15, 2017

hammer head with a chain through it.

quantummechanic · Jan 13, 2025

doogdoog said:
Snap On, OTC, Proto, are the ones that I have and they are good but you will have to think about the size you will be using. The one's with the 5/8" shaft are the normally used ones and it is best to buy it as a set instead of purchasing individual accessories because of the cost. This Snap On needs a little muscle.

Mahalo,
doogdoog

Hey you wouldn't happen to know the serial number off that. Try to find one to buy

ecotec · Jan 14, 2025

Ole Slewfoot said:
Morgan Tuff Girl

This is the coolest slide hammer. I would be very happy to just find a Morgan Tuff Girl weight.

I have so many slide hammers that I could never justify one. I would love to find one cheap at an estate sale.

Most of mine are homemade. Here is one of mine.

AEAdam · Jan 14, 2025

When you say "slide hammer" people think about the bar and the hammer head that slides on it. FORGET THOSE PARTS.

Slide hammers are all about the ends. Make your own, find a used one (how do you ruin a slide hammer?), then buy the ends directly from Snap On with full warranty. That is unless you have a custom end/purpose. Then get the cheapest POS you can find (which might be on eBay).

The Snap On model I have is obviously carefully heat treated so that the threads don't insta ****** or strip. The end is the important part, both the threads and the stuff you thread onto them. My slide hammer has saved my *** many times. This is a tool that can literally pay for itself if you do enough work. I'd say that about pullers in general.

mikey03 · Jan 14, 2025

I could have used a slide hammer taking apart some metal shelving the kind with the friction plastic half cylinder that wraps around the tubular uprights. It was assembled in a tight closet and couldn’t get any leverage to knock the shelves up to dislodge and used a deadblow hammer

which was fine except the bottom shelf that was 4 inches off the floor I couldn’t get and swing on the hammer. Wound up wasting 2 hours and cutting the exposed part of the plastic clips it was a mess

a slide hammer might have worked but never needed one for cars yet. Not gonna lie kind of want one now

any other non car handyman homeowner kinda uses?

mikedodge · Jan 14, 2025

For the simplicity of them and minimal use a slide hammer is a slide hammer. How good they are is in the attachments so you only have to make sure whatever slide hammer you're looking at doesn't have some stupid oddball thread size.

Mine's an old OTC one.

Steve_P · Jan 14, 2025

OTC is the "standard", but I'm sure dozens sell the same. Whatever you buy, make sure it has the standard 5/8-18 thread. My ancient HF had a metric thread and I eventually replaced it because of that.

mikey03 · Jan 14, 2025

mikedodge said:
For the simplicity of them and minimal use a slide hammer is a slide hammer. How good they are is in the attachments so you only have to make sure whatever slide hammer you're looking at doesn't have some stupid oddball thread size.

Mine's an old OTC one.

Oh nice so I can get a cheap one and then as I need for car stuff just buy the attachments later?

XJSuperman · Jan 14, 2025

Harbor Freight has a couple they offer. I've had one on my list for a bit now waiting for the excuse to buy. Anyone have experience with them?

Beerhippie · Jan 14, 2025

mikey03 said:
I could have used a slide hammer taking apart some metal shelving the kind with the friction plastic half cylinder that wraps around the tubular uprights. It was assembled in a tight closet and couldn’t get any leverage to knock the shelves up to dislodge and used a deadblow hammer

which was fine except the bottom shelf that was 4 inches off the floor I couldn’t get and swing on the hammer. Wound up wasting 2 hours and cutting the exposed part of the plastic clips it was a mess

a slide hammer might have worked but never needed one for cars yet. Not gonna lie kind of want one now

any other non car handyman homeowner kinda uses?

I've been in the exact same situation taking down a Euro Rack that was set up where it had to be taken down to move it. I used a loop of baler twine and a 3 lb hammer. Put the loop over the rack on the top side, hammer handle inside the loop near the head and swing away! One pop usually does the trick.

It's the Hippie slide hammer.

Baler twine has little or no stretch so it works very well for this. For heavier use--or someone without access to baler twine (I can't imagine what life would be like), make up a loop of wire rope or cable.

mikedodge · Jan 14, 2025

mikey03 said:
Oh nice so I can get a cheap one and then as I need for car stuff just buy the attachments later?

If you're going to do that make sure you get one that has decent reviews and has the standard size thread for the automotive type attachments.

Steve_P · Jan 15, 2025

mikey03 said:
Oh nice so I can get a cheap one and then as I need for car stuff just buy the attachments later?

The 5 lb HF is only $25 cheaper than the OTC, so .... As I said, just make sure it has a 5/8-18 thread. I'm sure that HF has caught on by now, but.... Yeah, it's probably the same as the OTC if the thread is a 5/8-18.

The small HF slide hammer set that's a copy of the Snap On is absolutely ****. Yeah, it's a slide hammer, but the jaws break on anything that requires more force than you can pull out with two fingers. I gave up welding up the jaws after a few times; they're probably cast iron and not forged steel.

turnthewrench 2.0 · Jan 15, 2025

I have the OEM Tools. Nothing fancy, it just works.

mikey03 · Jan 16, 2025

I was looking at the proto catalog and looks like they sell separate the weights and the shafts. They got a 2.5 pound and a 5 pound weight and they got two length shafts. I assume they are same diameter.

looked on zoro and was pretty cheap to get the two weights and two shafts separate

AEAdam · Jan 16, 2025

mikey03 said:
I was looking at the proto catalog and looks like they sell separate the weights and the shafts. They got a 2.5 pound and a 5 pound weight and they got two length shafts. I assume they are same diameter.

looked on zoro and was pretty cheap to get the two weights and two shafts separate

5lbs sounds too heavy. Could be unwieldy. I’ve used my slide hammer in all sorts of angles. I have the Snap On 2lb model. I’d start there and go bigger only for a specific application. Maybe if you are using it to pull out dents, 5lb would make sense.

tak1313 · Jan 16, 2025

I think most are at least OK enough depending on how often/hard you want to use it. My only caution is that when I was shopping around, as others have stated, the cheap (and not so cheap) import ones have metric threads and the vast majority of accessories have 5/8 inch threads.

I don't know what your uses are/will be, but when I was shopping, I also looked for a 10lb weight because yanking a rusted bearing assembly out of a knuckle can be slow/painful with a 5 lb weight (I even used the towel trick). So I bought a 10lb unit because I already had a 5 lb weight from a cheap HF unit years ago that had a large enough bore to fit the standard 5/8 inch shaft. So now I have a GOOD standard shaft that I can use either 10 or 5 lb weight with as needed.

Best slide hammer? Or is there one?

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