First "pro" tools, need reassurance

Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

Edit: Thanks everyone for the advice; even the advice I didn't take was valuable in that it made me think.

Original spec:

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I do shadetree mechanic work, small engine repair, etc, and am now graduating into flipping cars, more serious repairs and more consistent work. I need a cased set of sockets and wrenches that I can put in the trunk of my car, of better than home/hobbyist quality.

---------------------------------------------------

Along the way, I was convinced to at least try to buy a complete thin-wall impact socket kit, since powerful electric impacts are getting inexpensive, and I expect to be using them for many more things in the near future.

Other changes:

-Wrenches: It simply does not seem possible to buy a decent set of wrenches for an amount of money that I would be willing to put into a portable kit. They would cost more than the rest of this set, entirely.

-Ratchets: This has been hilarious; after agonizing over it for a while, I talked to my (pro) mechanic and noticed that he and every pro on youtube all have 10 different ratchets in each size from different brands, apparently until they decided which one they liked best. I may just have to do the same. In the meantime, I have a single Snap On (GF80, 3/8"), a 1/4" HF Pro flex head, and a 1/2" HF Pro extendable. Update: I LOVE the HF ratchets!

-Box: I went with a large plastic 3-drawer box. I worry about the top handle with all the weight, but it has side handles, as well, while being significantly lighter overall than a steel box. If I have problems with it, I'll replace it with a steel case or, more likely, a rolling tool box.

Final build:

Total cost, call it $350.

Ole Slewfoot · Jul 21, 2017

I'm pretty sure every set box Ive had from gearwrench has failed at the latch in less than a year, and often at the hinge shortly after. warranty only covers the tools. the tools themselves hold up fair to well.

jd_1138 · Jul 21, 2017

I really like the high visibility size markings on the Stanley Pro set. That would make it easy to find a size you need if the sockets end up on the ground. Not sure if that would make me drop $150 extra on them, though, over the GW set.

Do you have a shop or a garage at your house? I'd pick up a toolbox on wheels (or at least a tool cart), so you can put all the extra tools and equipment you'll need in it. Or will you work out of your vehicle?

Sychotix57 · Jul 21, 2017

Grey pneumatic Duo sockets. You won't regret them.

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Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

OK; I'm one of those guys who never breaks that kind of thing. The tools themselves, yes; the box, no

I just wanted to make sure that GW is quality, and that there isn't some other brand that I've missed.

shawndp · Jul 21, 2017

I have been using Gearwrench for the last few years - they were my first step up from basic tools and I am quite pleased with the brand. The 84 tooth ratchet can be had for not a lot of $$ every now and then on Amazon, so consider adding that on when the opportunity arises. For light stuff, the 84T flex head in 1/4 drive is a versatile tool and I bought a couple at Menards for $15 apiece.

PS - I'm a dealer, so I likely do a lot of the flip-requisite repairs you are looking at. You don't need an ultra pro kit - I haven't in 12 years of doing this. All the best!

Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

jd_1138 said:
Do you have a shop or a garage at your house? I'd pick up a toolbox on wheels (or at least a tool cart), so you can put all the extra tools and equipment you'll need in it. Or will you work out of your vehicle?

I am currently working in 3 different locations. I have a shop, and I have a rolling toolbox (upper and lower), but they are not in the same place. Shop is currently half storage, half dark room, have to tear out walls and open up garage door before I can use it.

Hence the need for a cased set; yea, I'm planning on piecing together a Blue Point set from used pieces, but that's down the road, and I have work to do, now

Sychotix57 said:
Grey pneumatic Duo sockets. You won't regret them.

You know, I really like the separate, complete sets, and that they are each 6- or 12-point....

On the other hand, that means that I need between 4 and 6 different sets of tools.

Is GP a good alternative to Blue Point for a shop set? That is something that I am building towards.

Sychotix57 · Jul 21, 2017

Codejack said:
I am currently working in 3 different locations. I have a shop, and I have a rolling toolbox (upper and lower), but they are not in the same place. Shop is currently half storage, half dark room, have to tear out walls and open up garage door before I can use it.

Hence the need for a cased set; yea, I'm planning on piecing together a Blue Point set from used pieces, but that's down the road, and I have work to do, now

You know, I really like the separate, complete sets, and that they are each 6- or 12-point....

On the other hand, that means that I need between 4 and 6 different sets of tools.

Is GP a good alternative to Blue Point for a shop set? That is something that I am building towards.

Someone I work in a heavy equipment shop with introduced the set to me. I actually had my Snap-on and Mac Tools dealer sell grey pneumatic sockets. Invest in the six point and if anything gets some cheap 12 point you'll never use them anyways unless you work on heavy equipment

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Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

shawndp said:
I have been using Gearwrench for the last few years - they were my first step up from basic tools and I am quite pleased with the brand. The 84 tooth ratchet can be had for not a lot of $$ every now and then on Amazon, so consider adding that on when the opportunity arises. For light stuff, the 84T flex head in 1/4 drive is a versatile tool and I bought a couple at Menards for $15 apiece.

I can get the 120xp set for ~$80 vs $65 for the 84t, and unlike the 84t, they should fit in that case with only moderate alteration. I'm not going to worry about $15.

shawndp said:
PS - I'm a dealer, so I likely do a lot of the flip-requisite repairs you are looking at. You don't need an ultra pro kit - I haven't in 12 years of doing this. All the best!

Thanks!

Yea, up until now, my old kobalt set has done OK; half axles, struts, alternators, etc. Then I tried to pull the bolts off some captive brake rotors and twisted both 14mm sockets.

I don't need ultra pro, but I need a step up from kobalt/Craftsman/husky/etc.

Mr_B · Jul 21, 2017

personally i think the 84t is better ratchet than the 120xp, i had both and sold 120xp set .
your discounted gearwench set sound good for your current needs .
Old gearwrench better than new, other brand browse at is toptul .

Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

Sychotix57 said:
Someone I work in a heavy equipment shop with introduced the set to me. I actually had my Snap-on and Mac Tools dealer sell grey pneumatic sockets. Invest in the six point and if anything gets some cheap 12 point you'll never use them anyways unless you work on heavy equipment

Sure, but I'm still going to need 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", then a separate wrench set, even assuming I don't need 12-point for, say, clutch plate or flywheel bolts.

I'm genuinely curious if those are a good substitute for Blue Point of SK for a shop set, but they don't really meet my needs for a portable set ;(

Sychotix57 · Jul 21, 2017

Codejack said:
Sure, but I'm still going to need 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", then a separate wrench set, even assuming I don't need 12-point for, say, clutch plate or flywheel bolts.

I'm genuinely curious if those are a good substitute for Blue Point of SK for a shop set, but they don't really meet my needs for a portable set ;(

I have multiple 3/8 sets and I prefer them over my 1/2 Snap on impacts. I understand that you'd want all of the set sizes now. Haha

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Ole Slewfoot · Jul 21, 2017

Codejack said:
OK; I'm one of those guys who never breaks that kind of thing. The tools themselves, yes; the box, no

I just wanted to make sure that GW is quality, and that there isn't some other brand that I've missed.

It isn't really abuse so much at the plastic hinge only bends a certain number of times.

Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

Mr_B said:
personally i think the 84t is better ratchet than the 120xp, i had both and sold 120xp set .
your discounted gearwench set sound good for your current needs .
Old gearwrench better than new, other brand browse at is toptul .

Just out of curiosity, what didn't you like about the 120? Everyone else seems to rave about them.

Here are the 3 ratchets:

Stock:

http://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-81218-3-8-drive-teardrop-quick-release-ratchet.html

84T:

http://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-81211f-3-8-drive-full-polish-teardrop-84-tooth-ratchet.html

120xp:

http://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-81211p-3-8-drive-120xptm-full-polish-teardrop-ratchet.html

Gotcha640 · Jul 21, 2017

I don't get the need for the boxed set. It sounds like you need some stouter pieces, which could be had for less as singles, and maybe a full set of specific wrenches or sockets, but why do they need to come in a specific box? It sounds like a quality tool box would be more useful.

Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

Ole Slewfoot said:
It isn't really abuse so much at the plastic hinge only bends a certain number of times.

Ah, yea, that would ****.

This case has metal hinge pins, at least, so no bending plastic.

Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

Gotcha640 said:
I don't get the need for the boxed set. It sounds like you need some stouter pieces, which could be had for less as singles, and maybe a full set of specific wrenches or sockets, but why do they need to come in a specific box? It sounds like a quality tool box would be more useful.

For one thing, I need too many tools; I work on everything from weed trimmers to 4x4 trucks.

All my wrenches, for example, are loose in a decent box, right now, and it's just a pain to find anything. I can put them in hangars, but then they take up too much room and are hard to get at.

Then there are pliers, screwdrivers, hammers, punches... which would all be fine if I can get the wrenches out of the way.

For another, cased sets are easier to check for missing tools at the end of a job; is there an empty spot in the case? Then a tool is missing. For those of use with less than perfect attention to detail...

theoldwizard1 · Jul 21, 2017

Codejack said:
I do shadetree mechanic work, small engine repair, etc, and am now graduating into flipping cars, more serious repairs and more consistent work. I need a cased set of sockets and wrenches that I can put in the trunk of my car, of better than home/hobbyist quality.

WHY ????

I have been a DIY "mechanic" for almost 50 years. Most all of my tools are Craftsman. When I decided I wanted a smaller travel set several years back, I bought Craftsman again. Most of what I bought was still Made in the USA. Some was used. I bought all of this for under $300 (there is a DMM in there also).

Yes, all the stuff fits in that tools box !

Okay, there is no 1/2" drive stuff in that collection.

Mr_B · Jul 21, 2017

Codejack said:
Just out of curiosity, what didn't you like about the 120? Everyone else seems to rave about them.

Here are the 3 ratchets:

Stock:

http://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-81218-3-8-drive-teardrop-quick-release-ratchet.html

84T:

http://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-81211f-3-8-drive-full-polish-teardrop-84-tooth-ratchet.html

120xp:

http://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-81211p-3-8-drive-120xptm-full-polish-teardrop-ratchet.html

high back drag and less reliable pawl mechanism on the 120xp.
84t lot smoother, low back drag (need proper grease before first use) and no binding issue that does occur on well used 120's, Price of the 84t is a steal too, I had the standard and flexi sets for silly prices . Really no need for more than 90 tooth ratchet in my opinion, back drag and reliability more important than few extra teeth . I found 84t good in daily use and I been hard on them, for the price they a low cost but long term ratchet buy .

ocloc24 · Jul 21, 2017

Codejack said:
Just out of curiosity, what didn't you like about the 120? Everyone else seems to rave about them.

Here are the 3 ratchets:

Stock:

http://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-81218-3-8-drive-teardrop-quick-release-ratchet.html

84T:

http://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-81211f-3-8-drive-full-polish-teardrop-84-tooth-ratchet.html

120xp:

http://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-81211p-3-8-drive-120xptm-full-polish-teardrop-ratchet.html

Many prefer the 84t, as he stated more backdrag. The 120xp is more of a marketing thing. They do sound "cool" but the 84t have better track record. Basically rebadged Matco ratchets depending on how you look at it.

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Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

theoldwizard1 said:
I bought all of this for under $300

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=KDT80942

The gearwrench set is on closeout for $150.

I have another case that doubles as a seat (useful working on stuff in fields and barns) with screwdrivers and pliers and such, almost everything you have there. It's over weight, though, I need to get the wrenches out.

I had a bad experience with Craftsman, though; I had a socket set back in the 90s, broke a socket on a bolt, went and got it replaced, and broke the new one on the same bolt. No cheater bar, no impact wrench, just me.

The warranty doesn't matter if the job never gets done.

Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

Mr_B said:
high back drag and less reliable pawl mechanism on the 120xp.
84t lot smoother, low back drag (need proper grease before first use) and no binding issue that does occur on well used 120's, Price of the 84t is a steal too, I had the standard and flexi sets for silly prices . Really no need for more than 90 tooth ratchet in my opinion, back drag and reliability more important than few extra teeth . I found 84t good in daily use and I been hard on them, for the price they a low cost but long term ratchet buy .

Doesn't the 120 have 60 teeth? It uses double pawls.

Mr_B · Jul 21, 2017

yes 60 teeth and 2 stage pawls. tends bind up or slip plus spring load is high on pawls making back drag high. found 84t way nicer use and more reliable design/build.
Sometimes less is more especially in lower price sector, add the old design price reduction to the rather nice 84t ratchet sets and you got a great ratchet at harbor freight money. Not much need for more than 72 to 90 tooth in reality, most people still on 24 and 48 tooth.
Money better spent on 84t sets IMO .

bczygan · Jul 21, 2017

Codejack said:
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=KDT80942

The gearwrench set is on closeout for $150.

I have another case that doubles as a seat (useful working on stuff in fields and barns) with screwdrivers and pliers and such, almost everything you have there. It's over weight, though, I need to get the wrenches out.

I had a bad experience with Craftsman, though; I had a socket set back in the 90s, broke a socket on a bolt, went and got it replaced, and broke the new one on the same bolt. No cheater bar, no impact wrench, just me.

The warranty doesn't matter if the job never gets done.

That's a great deal on that set.

Mr_B · Jul 21, 2017

^ good deal, throw in a set of 84t flexi head ratchets and your base socketry off to a good start with little outlay .

sberry · Jul 21, 2017

As I gain experience I tend to use the largest drive I can vs the smallest. A tight 14 or 9/16 can get a 1/2 drive on it if humanly possible. A helper I had was always trying to use 3/8 drive when 1/2 would have made it so easy.
I find with imagination I can get 1/2 air gun on most under car and don't even own 3/8 impacts, really focus on correct socket extension length or use deep sockets

Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

Mr_B said:
yes 60 teeth and 2 stage pawls. tends bind up or slip plus spring load is high on pawls making back drag high. found 84t way nicer use and more reliable design/build.
Sometimes less is more especially in lower price sector, add the old design price reduction to the rather nice 84t ratchet sets and you got a great ratchet at harbor freight money. Not much need for more than 72 to 90 tooth in reality, most people still on 24 and 48 tooth.
Money better spent on 84t sets IMO .

Mr_B said:
^ good deal, throw in a set of 84t flexi head ratchets and your base socketry off to a good start with little outlay .

OK, sold on 84t; not so sure on flex-head, I tend to just use u-joints, and I'm trying to keep this as compact as possible.

retDAC said:
Keep in mind that the manufacturer for ChiCom Craftsman and ChiCom Husky sockets and combo wrenches (both ratcheting and non-) these days is Sata, which also makes ChiCom GearWrench. Taiwanese GW has been noticeably better.

The nice thing about GW is that each set and part has a number, and you can cross-check them. What I like about this set is that the sockets and wrenches, at least, are the exact same parts that they sell in their TEP master sets, i.e. presumably their best.

retDAC said:
I don't know who makes Kobalt, except that most ratchets are (or have been) made by William In Taiwan (NOT J.H. Williams). William also makes most ratchets for HF and some other brands.

They were Taiwan William, then they were Danaher, now they are Chinese ****.

retDAC said:
Oh you mentioned wrenches in drawers in another post. Would HF wrench rings help with that? If you decide to go that route, check the alignment before you buy each pair.

It would help keep them a little more organized, but it just adds another step when you need to use it.

What I like about this kit is that the wrenches are all in one drawer, snapped into place on their sides, so they are compact, organized and accessible.

sberry said:
As I gain experience I tend to use the largest drive I can vs the smallest. A tight 14 or 9/16 can get a 1/2 drive on it if humanly possible. A helper I had was always trying to use 3/8 drive when 1/2 would have made it so easy.
I find with imagination I can get 1/2 air gun on most under car and don't even own 3/8 impacts, really focus on correct socket extension length or use deep sockets

Absolutely, that's why I need 1/2". But then, I need 1/4" for working on weed trimmers and chainsaws.

Actually, if I could find a kit with just 1/4" and 1/2"...

---------------------------------

Note about Grey Pneumatic: They look fantastic! Unfortunately, the kits are stupid.

1/4" is fine:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00291R2EU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

3/8" is fine:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029XKZKG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

But then to get a complete 1/2" set....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029XOE26/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YKEXIE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029XPX94/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YKEXRU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Do I really need 4 copies of the same 1/2" drive ratchet? I guess it would be nice in case 3 of them break...

In any case, that's $1000 worth of tools in 6 different cases, and I haven't even spec'd out wrenches to go with it. I'm considering that for a shop set, later, but it's going up against Blue Point, and not favorably in terms of price...

sberry · Jul 21, 2017

I got a 3/8 flex ratchet and a 1/2 in Sears. I really only use them occasionally as outright problem solvers. In fact really don't use ratchets much anymore anyway. I wouldn't even know what number of teeth they got, as long as it doesn't slip I am alright with it. Any real work other than a single fastener or easy stuff gets power drive. Its a habit to grab up a power ratchet or impact if I can.
I did too much by hand when I was a sprout, should have bought more power tools way earlier instead of ruining a couple 3 ratchets.

jd_1138 · Jul 21, 2017

sberry said:
I got a 3/8 flex ratchet and a 1/2 in Sears. I really only use them occasionally as outright problem solvers. In fact really don't use ratchets much anymore anyway. I wouldn't even know what number of teeth they got, as long as it doesn't slip I am alright with it. Any real work other than a single fastener or easy stuff gets power drive. Its a habit to grab up a power ratchet or impact if I can.
I did too much by hand when I was a sprout, should have bought more power tools way earlier instead of ruining a couple 3 ratchets.

Or use breaker bars instead of ruining your ratchets on breaking loose stubborn fasteners.

All my socket and ratchet sets came with breaker bars -- even a little 1/4 one in my SK 1/4 set.

VintageOkieDriver · Jul 21, 2017

Sberry
I agree especially as I am older and my hands hurt with too much abuse. I love my Bosch 3/8 drill and 1/2 driver

VintageOkieDriver · Jul 21, 2017

Two Christmas's ago I bought myself a Kobalt mechanics set. Love the tools even though I try to buy made in the USA. We have a motor home and the set has come in very handy to have all the tools I need in one box. Hate the box however - the drawers will come completely out and the box fell off my tractor bucket one and and I played 52 pick up for a considerable time.

Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

Yea, I have air tools and a rolling tool box; I had to leave them with my brother for a few years, though, so the air compressor wasn't maintained and blew out, and most of the impact sockets are missing.

In the interim, I bought an electric impact:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07255QCN4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

That's not really useful for engine components or even suspension and brake bolts; it's great for pulling lug and axle nuts, and that's what twisted my old Kobalt sockets, but it's too bulky to get into tight spaces and too powerful (with no gradation of power; it's all or nothing) to put lug and even axle nuts back on.

It beats my old method of putting a cheater on a breaker bar and standing on it, though, and it accomplishes the goal of saving me time and energy.

My thing is that I'm a pretty big guy and have a hard time judging force, so I break cheap tools all the time. I broke a 3" bench vise, once, across the bottom corner. I used to break ball joint separators once a week. I round off bolts accidentally, which is one of the biggest reasons I want a good set of sockets, with one of the designs that puts the force in the middle of the bolt, especially since I tend to work on old, rusty cars and lawnmowers.

I fully intend to get a full set of good impact sockets (looking at the Pro line at harbor freight)... at which point, why do I need normal chrome sockets? Can't I just use impact sockets on a ratchet and keep them in a rolling box?

sberry · Jul 21, 2017

Or use breaker bars instead of ruining your ratchets on breaking loose stubborn fasteners. All my socket and ratchet sets came with breaker bars -- even a little 1/4 one in my SK 1/4 set.

I think I lost my 3/8 and 1/4 breaker bars and never replaced them. I use the power ratchet most of the time, as I said, larger size and so much easier as a breaker and more stout. On smaller fasteners, say 3/8 bolts 9/16 sockets, yes you may be able to do 3/8 drive but its easy on the 1/2 equipment. Don't need a breaker bar if the ratchet is strong enough, a 1/4 wouldn't last long but had 1/2 for 20 years and its still new.

Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

jd_1138 said:
breaker bars

You know, for years, I dismissed those, since I had about 3 in a row that bent instead of broke

A few weeks ago, I got a recommendation to try this one:

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-60819.html

Someone told me that harbor freights "Pittsburgh Professional" line (not to be confused with certain "Pittburgh" professional tools) is Taiwan-made and comparable to the other big box store stuff.

I've only used it a bit, but it put axle nuts back on a Honda without any drama, and I no longer use a hammer to loosen stuck caliper bolts

sberry · Jul 21, 2017

I have the 1/2 bars too and it is something I do use. I use it instead of a shorter ratchet, if really pretty much fits and a long handle makes things easier. I turn the wheels and most of the time get a 1/2 air gun in caliper bracket bolts and suspension parts.
If I worked in a brake front end shop would get me super tootin 3/8 drive.
A modern gun has the poop for wheels, would be a little lighter and a little shorter. I don't depend on universals but socket and extension length. With a little work find I can really get simple straight tools on most stuff.

Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

Yea, air compressor is on the list, but I have to get the shop opened up, and for that I have to make some money, which means getting more stuff fixed up and sold faster.

Codejack · Jul 21, 2017

Grrr, every time I turn around I find something else.

What does everyone think of Williams?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HR1Q5F4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

No wrenches, and not as many sockets, but I hear good things?

derosa · Jul 21, 2017

Codejack said:
It beats my old method of putting a cheater on a breaker bar and standing on it, though, and it accomplishes the goal of saving me time and energy.

My thing is that I'm a pretty big guy and have a hard time judging force, so I break cheap tools all the time. I broke a 3" bench vise, once, across the bottom corner. I used to break ball joint separators once a week. I round off bolts accidentally, which is one of the biggest reasons I want a good set of sockets, with one of the designs that puts the force in the middle of the bolt, especially since I tend to work on old, rusty cars and lawnmowers.

I fully intend to get a full set of good impact sockets (looking at the Pro line at harbor freight)... at which point, why do I need normal chrome sockets? Can't I just use impact sockets on a ratchet and keep them in a rolling box?

Sounds like you need to learn finesse and/or go with smaller tools. Spend 3 hours trying to remove an overtorqued snapped titanium bolt from a 200+ dollar stem and you quickly learn to take your time and exercise caution. Ive occassionally had to add a cheater or even do the wrench on a wrench technique but mostly find grabbing the right tool and thinking through the best approach helps a lot. Impacts can be used on a ratchet but they don't fit everywhere due to bulkiness so keep the chrome as well, impacts are also designed for steady pressure that can exceed what an impact can handle.

Codejack · Jul 22, 2017

derosa said:
Sounds like you need to learn finesse and/or go with smaller tools. Spend 3 hours trying to remove an overtorqued snapped titanium bolt from a 200+ dollar stem and you quickly learn to take your time and exercise caution.

Haven't had that experience, luckily; my worst mistake was overtorquing a spark plug and stripping the threads out of the head. I actually found the old thread tap from the repair kit, that I never used again, having learned my lesson

derosa said:
Ive occassionally had to add a cheater or even do the wrench on a wrench technique but mostly find grabbing the right tool and thinking through the best approach helps a lot. Impacts can be used on a ratchet but they don't fit everywhere due to bulkiness so keep the chrome as well, impacts are also designed for steady pressure that can exceed what an impact can handle.

I'm not sure what you mean by that last part; do you mean that chrome is meant for steady pressure and impacts are not?

I was looking at these:

https://www.harborfreight.com/13-pc-12-in-drive-metric-impact-socket-set-61702.html

Because they are less bulky than these:

https://www.harborfreight.com/10-pc-12-in-drive-metric-impact-socket-set-67899.html

Allegedly, the Pittsburgh Pro line is Taiwan-made, as good as the big box store brands /shrug

Bighead38 · Jul 22, 2017

I have this set and really like it for the portability. It doesn't have 1/2" though. I have a 3 drawer metal box and has the top available. I have it packed with a craftsman set that includes 1/4",3/8",1/2" sockets, a ton of ratchets, 2 wrench rolls, 2 hammers in the top. One drawer is a full screwdriver set, one drawer is a full pliers set including cutters, final drawer is specialty tools. If I bring the box and blue point set I bet I could do 95% of repairs.

https://store.snapon.com/General-Se...eral-Service-Set-Blue-Point-reg--P645026.aspx

First "pro" tools, need reassurance

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