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Greenville Build: When you can't go out, to up

Bamafan

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Greenville Build: When you can't go out, go up

We have just completed the HOA approval / permitting phase of our new carriage house, so I thought I'd start a thread for it. We are restricted to 30' wide and I have way too many cars, so we decided to put in 12' ceilings and start exploring lift options. Here are pics of some of the cars we plan to park in the garage: A '95 Acura NSX, a '66 Lincoln Continental Convertible, and an '03 Honda S2000. It will be a two car garage with a perhaps a double lift to fit four total cars. There will be an additional parking pad on the side of the structure to park a fifth car.
 

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Bib Overalls

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Sounds like an interesting project. I use Flickr as my photo host. It is free and has an easy uploading program. Individual saved photos are easy to link to Forum posts.
 

StreetGLi

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Sounds like an interesting project. I use Flickr as my photo host. It is free and has an easy uploading program. Individual saved photos are easy to link to Forum posts.
Do you work for flickr? That was a terrible segway if you don't.
 

StreetGLi

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We have just completed through the HOA approval / permitting phase of our new carriage house, so I thought I'd start a thread for it. We are is restricted to 30' wide and I have way too many cars, so we decided to put in 12' ceilings and start exploring lift options. Here are pics of some of the cars we plan to park in the garage: A '95 Acura NSX, a '66 Lincoln Continental Convertible, and a Honda S2000. It will be a two car garage with a perhaps a double lift to fit four total cars. There will be an additional parking pad on the side of the structure to park a fifth car.
That's quite the collection. I'm looking forward to your plans.
 
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Bamafan

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I'm looking forward to figuring out how to post them! File is too big to upload the regular way. I'll try a sharing service soon.
 

Stuart in MN

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I'm looking forward to figuring out how to post them! File is too big to upload the regular way. I'll try a sharing service soon.

Looking forward to the progress. As for the picture files, try reducing their size since they don't need to be all that big for posting online. Make them 1024 x 768 pixels, the file size will probably be a lot smaller and they'll look fine when posted.
 
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Bamafan

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Here are the architects drawings. A few things to point out:

  • We tracked down the original architect firm that designed the house and had them do the design. This saved us $$ since they were not working from scratch and ensured easy passage through the approval process.

  • We have a full bedroom upstairs. There will be a mini split system to condition the space.

  • It is a true carriage house; there is no access to the space from inside our house. However, there is a side man door and a back man door.

  • The first floor is 12' to accomodate whichever lift(s) I choose. As you can see from the drawings, it will dominate the space. So I am going to get a tall lift so it is less visually intrusive when my wife walks through the garage.

  • I plan to use a Liftmaster 8500 and a high door lift kit to get the garage door high enought to clear the lift.

  • In the interest of preserving height, I have spec'd LED can lights. However, I might switch to LED surface lights since they take up almost no space and likely cast a broader light. I'm open to suggestions.

  • Still don't have a great solution for lighting under the lifts. Perhaps downward facing LED ropes. The goal isn't to light the cars, it is to light the space under the cars.
 

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Crashlandy

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Man you are living the life. Another Bama Fan here with a silver 03 S2000. Good Luck with your build.
 
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Bamafan

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I think is exactly what Honda wanted it to be: A practical supercar that you can drive every day without worry; a bargain Porsche 918 without the maintenance hassles. I'm just not sure there is much of a market for it.

I've always loved the original NSX's. When I saw the prices taking off, I asked my wife if I could buy one before they got out of reach. I flew from Indianapolis to Dallas with my 16 year-old son to pick it up and we drove it straight home through the night with the top off. Great memories.

I'd be happy to take you for a spin if you're ever in Greenville.
 

ard

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What is the structure/construction on the ceiling of the first floor?? Cant make it out on the plans. Soffits? Posts? Lifts? Shows up on the foundation layer to, so thinking lift??

Looks like a nice build. Glad Im on 10 acres though. :)
 
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Bamafan

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What is the structure/construction on the ceiling of the first floor?? Cant make it out on the plans. Soffits? Posts? Lifts? Shows up on the foundation layer to, so thinking lift??

Looks like a nice build. Glad Im on 10 acres though. :)

The structure is an outline of a BendPak double-wide lift to show me how it fits.

Regarding acreage: With this move we decided to downsize and simplify. No more maintaining a large lot. That comes with some difficult trade offs. But overall I am happy with the decision. It is a "walking" neighborhood with a high degree of interaction. Both BMW and Michelin have their North American headquarters nearby, so I have some interesting neighbors. But right now I have cars in storage spaces all over town!
 
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Bamafan

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Good news and bad news.

The good news is that ground has been broken! Viewers of this forum are used to 40'x80' builds, so you'll have to adjust your eyes a bit for my pics of this much smaller and cramped build.

The bad news is that I took these pics a few minutes before the Bobcat driver hit buried power lines that blew a transformer and took out electricity for us and 8 of our neighbors. It got restored early this morning. I think our builder will be cleared because the lines were only buried about 6" below the surface when they should have been buried 2'. But still not a very pleasant way to introduce ourselves to the neighborhood!!
 

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Bamafan

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We were thinking of brownies, but we can go with pie.

I'm thinking of extending our Sonos system to the garage and bedroom, but nothing like the system you are installing!
 

madison069

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As for hitting the buried power wire, as long as he called the one call system to have all utilities marked he should be ok if it wasn't marked. But if it was marked and he hit it, well it can go either way.

Good luck with the build! I look forward to the completed project!
 
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Bamafan

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ISSUE 2 (I'll start counting)

The GC called today to say the inspection of the slab form was taking place tomorrow. That was odd, since the 4" of compacted gravel he had bid on was not present. The contractor told the GC that he had poured plenty of slabs in Greenville there was no need for the gravel in Greenville. I pushed back hard. The GC made the call to have the concrete contractor come back, re-dig, and add the gravel. Not off to a tremendous start, but not time to panic...just a reminder to monitor the process closely.

Here are some current pics...
 

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ard

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Good for you. I cannot tell you how often you here that: contractor messes up, their response it to argue 'it wasnt needed'. Rebar. Compaction. Stuff like that.

Rebar and Vapor barrier?
 
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Bamafan

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Vapor barrier. 5" monolithic slab. I went a little thicker than code just in case the lift(s) needed a little extra oomph.
 

mrbc

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Re: Greenville Build: When you can't go out, go up

Wait, doesn't code determine how the slab gets poured, and also what was in the job spec? If the plan calls for the gravel, or rebar, etc, how can the sub not do what they're contracted to do? Now, I realize people will wind up doing what ever they want, at some point, but I'd say the sub should go back and do it right, and not expect much in the way of pay, or at least the overage in re-doing shoddy work.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
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Bamafan

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The architect specified 4” of #57 gravel and poly under the slab. I took the slab thickness from 4" to 5" even though the lifts specify a 4" slab.
 
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Bamafan

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Time for a quick update...

  • Passed electrical, plumbing, and footer inspections before we could pour the slab
  • Slab has been poured
  • First part of the lumber package has been delivered. It will be delivered in phases since our lot is so tight.

I am thinking through a couple of things...

1) Lights. I had spec'd 12 LED can lights. I wanted to preserve head space (the first floor is 12' since I am having a lift installed) and figured that the ceiling is high enough that the can lights won't cast a lot of shadows. However, I am reconsidering. Costco has Winplus LED Utility lights on sale for $29 each. They put out 3800 Lm and last 50k hours. They would take up about 3.5" of head space, but I think they'd put out a lot more light and look good doing it. Here is a link: https://www.costco.com/Winplus-45”-LED-Utility-Light-with-Motion-Sensor-.product.100329453.html I will post some questions about them on the Lighting forum.

2) Lifts. I was thinking of a Bendpak tandem 2-car lift. But I continue to hear bad reviews about their recent quality and customer service issues. I have approached another manufacturer of very high quality lifts. They are preparing to launch a 2-car lift. We are discussing using my build as a trial. Not sure which direction I will go yet.
 

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Bamafan

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Another quick photo update as the framing goes up. Those 12' walls really look tall!!!

I've been confusing myself quite a bit thinking about lighting. I'm convinced that I need recessed LED's over the lift to preserve head space. But I am considering using LED's across the front, back, and sides of the garage where the cars on the lift will never touch doe to their superior light.

Happy to hear your thoughts!

I'd also be happy to hear about anyone with experience finding someone to epoxy a floor in Greenville, SC.
 

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Bamafan

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You're right. I was thinking the recessed lights would just add a nice glow at night. But no real need to go with recessed with such a small area on the ceiling actually being impacted by the car on the lift.
 

cobra7

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Nice build. I am located in Greenville, too. Brave of you to be a Bama fan in Clemson country! Where you located? I am off of Hudson Rd.
Haven't been to cars and coffee for a while but need to make a point one Saturday.

Tim 2008 Charger SRT-8
 
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Bamafan

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I'm in Verdae in Hollingsworth Park. My neighbor works at Michelin and invited me to take my NSX to C&C last month. I couldn't believe how big it is...1,200 cars in attendance last month. The NSX drew much more attention than I thought it would. That might just be because it was the first time it was there.

I might reach out to you for advice on some services I am looking for. Right now I'm searching for a good company to epoxy the garage floor next month.
 
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Bamafan

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Quick update pics...the first floor is now framed and sheathed.

I have also posted a question about which way man doors should open in the General Garage Discussion forum asking which way man doors should open. Please feel free to offer up your advice on that thread: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=371126

Feel free to weigh in on that thread!
 

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jimmie jam

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Very nice build so far. I will say that I did a 600 sf addition to my garage about 7 years ago. I did 13' ceilings w/3 3800's that take the doors within 6" of the ceiling leaving plenty of room for lighting. I struggled with the same lighting questions. I deep sixed the can fixtures as they just would not shed enough general light. I opted to have three rows of three with the outer rows switched seperately than the center row. Placement is critical especially with a lift (I have a BendPak) so that you still have light under the cars that are lifted. I was undecided about the fixtures and just had the electrician put the ceramic poverty one bulb fixture just to pass inspection. I picked up some daylight CFL's at Costco to have bulbs in for the inspection and after a couple of days the Cfl's were looking pretty good and lighting the space up like a basketball court. So, 7+ years later those same bulbs are there...I have found no reason to change these and put different fixtures in. It's hard to get it right with 12-13' ceilings. As for the slab, I did 6" of 4,000psi concrete with wire mesh and #5 rebar crossed 5 feet on center. I know it's too late for that but that's what I did. BTW, have the "man" doors open out so that you won't have to worry about having enought space inside for them to open and make sure that they ar 3' doors. FWIW.
 
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welder57

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I would go with Left Hand out-hinges are on the left side-go with no glass (outside door)-we have folks that love to steal what they can see here. Roll Tide!!!!
 

Bib Overalls

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What your concrete contractor calls "you don't need it" my contractor brother-in-law calls "nobody will ever notice." There is a lot of building going on here right now and unfortunately that means the second string contractors and subs are off of the bench and back in the game. As you have found out, there is no substitute for owner oversight.
 
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Bamafan

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Thanks for the continued feedback!

@jimmie jam - I'm going to let the electrician guide me a bit on the lighting as well. But I purchased 10 Costco LED fixtures just in case he wants them. 3800 lumens each so they should be more than enough. For the slab I ended up with rebar/wire mesh in 4000# concrete poured to a little over 5" over a poly barrier.

@bib overalls - It is absolutely true that one should leave nothing for granted. My contractor needs constant reminding on the details, but I have to say he is building a very good structure. I'm surprised at the amount of wood in this thing.

Here are the latest pics...
 

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Bamafan

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Re: Greenville Build: When you can't go out, go up

It has been a month, so it is time for a few update posts...

Here are some pics of the framing and sheathing as it progressed. This is where it gets challenging with the neighbors. Things like bracing and trash need to be dealt with quickly.
 

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Bamafan

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Some shots of the inside after it was framed. Mostly 2x6 16" on center.

As a reminder, the ceiling in the garage is 12' while the ceiling in the bedroom is 10'.
 

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Bamafan

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We decided to insulate it ourselves. It is something I have wanted to get better at, and this seemed like the ideal time. I have learned the key to insulating--no matter what type of insulation you are using--is to take care of air sealing. Spray foam insulation seals the wall cavities as it is installed, but it does nothing for all of the other gaps and crevices. After air sealing, I went with R21 fiberglass in most walls and R38 in the ceilings.

When fiberglass gets this dense, it is very robust. So it was easy to friction fit. Which is not to say it was not time consuming. Due to the high ceilings, careful installation of baffles in the attic space and--most important--my lack of experience, the job took most of the weekend. My wife and I took a break on Saturday to run the Swamp Rabbit Trail marathon and then got back to work. I must say that climbing the ladder was a lot more difficult after running the marathon!!

Pro tip: Make sure the tub is installed AFTER insulation goes in behind it. Since we had to pass the plumbing inspection before we insulated, they installed the tub without insulation behind it. We had to take it out and re-install it.

We weren't quite done when we took these pics, but you get the idea:
 

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