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30' x 45' Wood Shop Build

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Paladin306

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Oklahoma City, OK
Well, we ended up selling our house, along with the 2400 square foot shop which can be seen here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256595

So, we're building one at the new place. Slightly smaller but custom built with a heated floor, 12' foot walls, bathroom, small office and still lots of room for woodworking. Dust collector, air compressor and water heater housed in a small separate room which will be accessible from the shop as well as the rear of the building.

Here's some pics:

View media item 71633
And, so it begins.

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View media item 74171
In floor heating system, ductwork and floor plugs have all been installed and ready for the slab.

View media item 74171
White colored pex pipe for the heating system. Floor plugs have the black caps and in-floor dust collection are the silver colored ones.

View media item 74174
Slab is done!

View media item 74175
I know, this pic stinks, didn't get enough at this stage.
 
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493mike

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I put in-floor dust collection in my wood shop too but, forgot the floor plug for the table saw!
Mike
 
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Black Oak

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I wondered about that too. Looks like he might have done the edge and perimeter only . I was given the same advice in Arkansas, if not just skip radiant altogether. My winters are very mild.
 
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Paladin306

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493mike said:
I put in-floor dust collection in my wood shop too but, forgot the floor plug for the table saw!
Mike
Click to expand...

Mike, LOL that would be a pretty important point.

Black Oak said:
I'm so glad to see a dedicated woodshop going up. In OK. , what is the plan for A/C ? Insulation ? Keep us posted.
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Howdy Black Oak, for A/C I'm going to use a 2 1/2 ton mini-split. I am pondering whether to supplement the first mini-split (which are extremely energy efficient), with either a second one or, a Big *** Fan www.bigassfans.com. Insulation will be foam. When it's all said and done the shop should be very tight and energy efficient. Windows are double pane with low-e

KULIWOBBY said:
No foam board under the pex?
Click to expand...

Black Oak said:
I wondered about that too. Looks like he might have done the edge and perimeter only . I was given the same advice in Arkansas, if not just skip radiant altogether. My winters are very mild.
Click to expand...

KULIWOBBY & Black Oak,

Nope, no foam board under the pex. Foam board is around the entire perimeter. A lot of thought went into it and there's a couple of reasons for that. First, the site for the shop ended up being very good soil, i.e., no clay in that spot whatsoever. That's important because when the rains come and clay gets wet it expands, typically upward, thereby cracking your nice concrete floor. So, while there's an old saying that "all concrete cracks" this one has a good chance at being the one that breaks the rule.

Secondly, if we had put the foam board underneath the pex and then poured the concrete there would be no place for the water concrete to drain to. In other words the bottom part of the concrete would dry extremely slowly, much slower than the top in the hot Oklahoma sun. And, once again the concretes going to crack.

Lastly, the foam board is around the perimeter where the earth is going to be the coldest. Underneath, the shop floor the temperature of the earth will be about 55 degrees. That fact, along with a fast refresh rate on the hot water heater should make the radiant system nice and toasty. The mini-split can also pick up any slack.

I'll try to post some more pics this weekend.

Mark
 
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Paladin306

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Black Oak said:
How's the build going? Can you update your progress? Really interested in your woodshop.
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I must be living in the Twilight Zone https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Twilight_Zone_(1959_TV_series). I would swear I had updated this thread. Obviously, I would have been wrong. :lol_hitti

That said, we'll try to take care of that right now. Things have been progressing right along. Before the pics I'll cover the stuff that can't be seen. The plumber dug the trench(es) for the water line as well as the "grinder put" which will carry away (ahem) from the men's room to our aerobic system on the opposite side of the house. We used the same trench as the for line for the electric which was run straight from our house meter rather than from our breaker box in the garage. So, there won't be any lack of power in the shop.

View media item 75171Foam board all the way around promises to help make things cozy in the winter and keep down the heat in the summer.

View media item 75170Framing is done and interior is next.

View media item 76235And, the interior is coming right along as well. Southern yellow pine on the ceiling and walls of the main room. Used the yellow pine for the office and dust collector walls as well but, used drywall for the ceilings.

View media item 76233Picture from the loft.

View media item 76230Finger jointed western red cedar, (which is really not quite this red) for the bathroom.

View media item 76234Big yellow Gorilla has found himself a home once again. This is the 3 hp model and will **** up any sawdust that's less than a mile away. (Okay, that might be a small exaggeration but, you get the point.)

View media item 76224Work on the outside is proceeding as well.

NUTTSGT said:
Wait, what ?!?! Did you just build that shop ? :headscrat
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Yes, I'm afraid I do indeed resemble that. Remodeled the shop and then we decided to move back to the area (roughly) that we had moved from. No big surprise but, the shop "sold the house".
 
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Paladin306

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Well it's taken much longer than I had anticipated but the shop is almost complete. Here's some pics along the way:

View media item 78863
The interior walls are finished and work on the stairway to the loft is about to start. Unfortunately, that progress was not without a hitch. The framers didn't get the memo that there wasn't to be any nails in the concrete floor and secured the post with a nail stud which, of course hit just exactly where two lines of the radiant heat system happened to be crossing. So, the post had to be removed and this temporary one put in its place while the concrete was chiseled out so the pex lines could be repaired.

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The roof beam was in cased in the eastern red cedar which can be seen on the floor in the above pic. Below, the brick exterior is now complete.

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And, the concrete drive is now done as well:

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I wanted a lot of light and that's exactly what I got after I installed 13 of these lights https://beeslighting.com/diva-light-led-high-bay/p/LHB-110W-U-50K-D10 myself based upon this design by Platonic Solid (post 401 of this thread) https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=289441&page=21. Can't say enough thanks to him for his suggestions.

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Here's the opposite view from the loft:

View media item 78882
Next up was to epoxy the floor. Used a two tone blue flake pattern which also contained some black and white specs.

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And so, that's where we're at. I had all my tools, lumber and "stuff" in two pods and have since unloaded them into the shop which is now very, very full since nothing is really organized. Two mini splits will be installed this week to provide air conditioning as well as a supplemental heat source. The only remaining items are to install the plumbing fixtures and the floor receptacles.

Once I get things somewhat organized I'll install the base boards and build some doors for the bathroom, dust collector room and small office.
 
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stevelh

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Awesome wood shop you have! Looks really good. Any issues with the lights flush with the ceiling instead of parallel to the floor?
 
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OOBER

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Kansas City
That is an awesome shop.

It is interesting that you went with the rafter setup instead of a scissor truss or something similar. Love the high ceilings you achieved. Was there a large price difference between the two? Anything else to consider with this setup?

I am looking at building a similar sized shop and haven't seen many built like this.

Mind providing some more pictures of the rooms at the back? Looks like you have a french door setup to pull in a mower or something?

What size is the garage door?
 
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Paladin306

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James-W said:
The shop looks REALLY nice. When you get your equipment installed, a few pictures would be wonderful.
Click to expand...

ford33 said:
Nice job. That looks like a very comfortable place to work.
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Thanks guys, it is indeed a dream shop come true.

stevelh said:
Awesome wood shop you have! Looks really good. Any issues with the lights flush with the ceiling instead of parallel to the floor?
Click to expand...

Nope, no issues thus far. I could always convert them into a parallel fixture if need be by taking them off the brackets and hanging them from a small chain. But, I don't expect that will be needed as the lighting is very good.

OOBER said:
That is an awesome shop.

It is interesting that you went with the rafter setup instead of a scissor truss or something similar. Love the high ceilings you achieved. Was there a large price difference between the two? Anything else to consider with this setup?

I am looking at building a similar sized shop and haven't seen many built like this.

Mind providing some more pictures of the rooms at the back? Looks like you have a french door setup to pull in a mower or something?

What size is the garage door?
Click to expand...

The rafter setup for the roof, in this case with a roof beam is definitely the "old school" method and, in my humble opinion might be a bit stronger. Some common problems with a truss setup are:

1) Trusses can be somewhat fragile until installed and braced.

2) If just one or two of the web members becomes damaged somehow, i.e. from a roof impact or leakage, it can significantly weaken the roof.

3) Sometimes a check or a knot appears intact and structurally sound on installation but, pops out later, also causing a structural weakness.

I suspect trusses would have been a little cheaper primarily because they would have been pre-fabricated and therefore, would have been faster to install. (But, I really didn't check on this aspect of it.) The big benefit for me is the openness that the rafter design created. Yes, there would have been open space with the trusses as well but, not as much as with the rafter design.

No other issues that I know of other than it might be better insulated with this design as the rafter space was completely filled with cellulose insulation held in by a net. Then, one inch styrofoam was placed over the entire roof interior. Of course, the roof is just one component of the insulation package but, thus far, there's typically been a 25 to 30 degree difference between the inside and outside temperatures. (That's without any heater of any kind, solely based on the insulation.) But, yesterday it got down to 6 degrees, (yes six degrees) and the inside temperature never dipped below 42 degrees. I'm very pleased with that part of it.

The overhead door is 16' wide by 10' tall insulated to an R value of 18.4. I had extensions placed on the rails so that the door goes up higher before it goes parallel to the floor and, therefore it affects less of the open space when raised.

Yes, the middle room does indeed have a french door. The room wouldn't be big enough to pull a mower into but, the thought behind the door was that it would be easier to carry out a large bag of sawdust that way. Might not ever use it that way but, it's there if needed. I'll get some more pics of those rooms.

HOTFR8 said:
I like the loft. What plans do you have for underneath ?
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The three rooms underneath the loft are, (from left to right when facing the rooms) 1) small bathroom with toilet and sink, 2) dust collector/air compressor/water heater (for the radiant floor system) and 3) small office (8' x 9'). For us the loft area will be for storage, Christmas decorations, etc, all those things that would normally be in an attic. But, the whole design of the place could be a place to store an RV or could also be easily converted into a small home / mother-in-law plan etc.
 
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Paladin306

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Thanks MacTexas! Looks like you have a similar build.

I've been busy unpacking and trying to get the shop organized. Here's a photo of one side of the middle room which houses the dust collector, hot water heater and air compressor.

The air compressor is all set up as are the two tool boards which contain all my air tools. The tool boards are attached to the wall using "french cleats" in case I should ever decide to change the board.

The board holding the nailers accomplishes two things: 1) it provides a safe and permanent home for the tools and 2) by using air the brass 1/4" couplers which are permanently mounted on the board to hold the tools, it keeps any small insects from deciding to use the tools as a new home and causing problems with them. For the framing nailer on the floor I'll have to cut a small piece of hose and attach a coupler so that I can attach it to the board as it's too long otherwise.

View media item 79934
 
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TurtleValley

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That is one nice shop!! That wood interior really looks great. I am going with prefinished Baltic birch plywood for our shop. Your trim out looks great.

Can't wait to see it loaded up with all your stuff.

I wonder if there is a way to clad the inside of the garage doors to complete the finish. I have the same problem that I am looking at instead of white door panels on the inside.
 
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Paladin306

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Thanks TurtleValley! I wrote up a nice long response which unfortunately ended up somewhere in the black holes of Internet space. But, I won't attempt to duplicate it at this point. The bottom line is you have an awesome shop as well!!! Location, location, location and you obviously picked an outstanding one.

As for the overhead door, it's insulated to R-18. I hadn't ever thought about adding another layer. It would certainly have to be light as the door is heavy enough already.

Mark
 
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TurtleValley

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Paladin306 said:
As for the overhead door, it's insulated to R-18. I hadn't ever thought about adding another layer. It would certainly have to be light as the door is heavy enough already.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the compliment on our shop. Long ways to go yet.

I was thinking the same thing about weight. not sure how much more the springs could take. I am going to ask my door guy when he is installing next Friday and ask the question.

Once again, beautiful interior!!
 
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Paladin306

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jgiles101982 said:
Are those 12' walls framed with 2x6's?
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jgiles,

(Sorry, I didn't see your post on my first pass.)

Yes, indeed, I had them use 2 x 6's rather than 2 x 4's on all framing members both for the additional insulation as well as structural reasons.

Update on Energy Report

Upthread there was some conversation about the floor heating system and its' projected effectiveness. Well, with some recent days when the temperature was as low as 6 degrees (yes six) and a windchill of -4 I've had some excellent chances to test the system.

On one evening, with the temperatures to be in the 'teens I left the shop and turned the system on leaving it on to see what the room temperature would be the next morning. And, the answer is 69 degrees! :rocker: Depending on your point of view that may, or may not be toasty warm but, I can assure you in a shop where you're moving around and doing things it's very toasty. And, the floor is very warm to the touch as well. I turned the system off that morning (and, left the mini-splits off all day as well). And, by the end of the day the room temperature had dropped 1 degree. So, once the floor is heated up it's the gift that keeps on givin'.

I turned the floor system back on that evening which, incidentally was the evening that it got down to 6 and when I arrived the next morning the room temperature was 66 degrees. Slightly less than the day before but, still very toasty in a room when you're moving around.

Since then, if it's cold and I'm going to the shop, I just turn the floor system on after I get up. But, the neat part about that is I can turn it on from the house via a "Pico switch" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXJ3O/?tag=atomicindus08-20 which is radio frequency controlled.

So, I can turn on the floor system without ever going to the shop. And, if I want to heat it up fast, the Samsung mini-splits can also be turned on via by smart phone. Needless to say I'm extremely pleased with all facets of the heating system.
 
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Paladin306

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Haven't posted in a while but, work on getting the shop organized has been slow but, steady none the less. Once I got the large tools somewhat organized I set upon trying to find a home for two large stacks of rough lumber that was taking up an inordinate amount of floor space such as one pic here:

View media item 82386
Originally, I had planned for the mini-split to be above the miter saw but, air flow and efficiency took over (especially for the hot Oklahoma summers). So, the mini-split was moved down towards the corner and the lumber rack now has to be placed to the left of it.

View media item 82385
I held many a debate (with myself) on what I wanted out of a lumber rack as well as researching for ideas on the Web. And, while I'm partial to wood, ultimately getting it up and running so to speak took over and ordered these sturdy straps from LeeValley.com. When they say they strong, they're not kidding. After installing the first few I sat on one of the lower ones as well as stood on top of one of the ones on the bottom row. With a 190 lbs of weight on them they not only didn't budge, they didn't even blink.

View media item 82383
I ordered two different sizes of the straps 14" and 18". I installed one row of the 18's on the bottom to hold this "tree" of a sapele plank which is 20" wide.

View media item 82384
View media item 82383
It's not totally exactly as I would like but, the lumber is off the floor and now organized by species.

View media item 82387
Next up was to get a start on the dust collection system as well as a rollable cart for the panel goods:

View media item 82390
View media item 82391
(Sorry about the formatting of the pic, there is a lot about posting on GJ that I don't understand.)

Mark
 
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sledneck322

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I love those T&G finished interior walls. I am also leaning towards doing the same for my shop. I am surprised more people don't do that. Awesome job.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Do you just use a step-ladder to get the wood off the lumber rack ? What size and length of lags did you use to attach it to the wall ?
 
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Paladin306

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BoilermakerFan said:
Looking good!
Click to expand...

Thanks guys for the kind words.

Do you just use a step-ladder to get the wood off the lumber rack ? What size and length of lags did you use to attach it to the wall ?[/QUOTE said:
I certainly can use a step-ladder but, with my prior shop I purchased the lift, which has a max height of 19', that can be seen in some pics. So, that's how I loaded the wood and because of the added stability of the lift that's probably how I would unload it. In fact, I've already used it a couple of times.

As for the lags I used 3/8" x 4" ones. That allows three quarters of an inch for the pine and 3 1/4" into the stud. It's not as strong as an ox. It's STRONGER:bounce:
Click to expand...
 
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86turbodsl

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WOW. That's a lot of wood in a very nice shop. Looking forward to seeing everything get set up. Love it.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Paladin306 said:
Thanks guys for the kind words.



I certainly can use a step-ladder but, with my prior shop I purchased the lift, which has a max height of 19', that can be seen in some pics. So, that's how I loaded the wood and because of the added stability of the lift that's probably how I would unload it. In fact, I've already used it a couple of times.

As for the lags I used 3/8" x 4" ones. That allows three quarters of an inch for the pine and 3 1/4" into the stud. It's not as strong as an ox. It's STRONGER:bounce:
Click to expand...

Those are decent sized lags and should work for a very long time.....unless you decide to move to another garage. :lol_hitti

I saw the lift but thought that belonged to the contractor friend and not you.
 
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Paladin306

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86turbodsl said:
WOW. That's a lot of wood in a very nice shop. Looking forward to seeing everything get set up. Love it.
Click to expand...

LOL, you and me both. Right now it's still a big mess. Yard work, grandkids and honey-do's lately. Hopefully, I can get things sorted out in the next few months.

NUTTSGT said:
Those are decent sized lags and should work for a very long time.....unless you decide to move to another garage. :lol_hitti

LOL, no more moves. They can carry me out of this place.:bounce:
Click to expand...
 
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Paladin306

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Progress continues to be slow, but steady. As more and more tools, and "stuff" find a permanent or, even a semi-permanent home there's more and more room to move around in and not have to worry about tripping over something. In addition, the ductwork for the dust collection system is about 75% complete.

View media item 84189
Rather than spend over $200 for a metal dust sweep I elected to make a simple one out of plywood. Here's a view of the underside:

View media item 84191
It doesn't have a bottom but, who needs one? Just sweep dust, dirt and any sawdust not collected by the system into the channeled opening, and open the gate and ****! it's gone.

View media item 84186
I had previously built a charging/drill storage station with a tambour door that I had seen in one of the woodworking magazines. I modified the design by making the sides longer and adding the four drawers. (Not that happy with how the drawers turned out but, they'll do until I have time to remake them.)

View media item 84188
View media item 84187
Mark
 
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