garden shed

texas123 · Mar 20, 2018

I'm embarrassed to ask such a question on this forum, but here goes...I need a small storage shed in the back yard & Tough Shed seemed quality but more than I'm willing to spend (hoa size restrictions make it not worth it). So if I build one myself (having never worked with wood other than playground kits) & knowing my only wood tools are a circular saw & drill :
1. what size would require the least amount of cuts (around 8x8 is fine)
2. I'd like to use screws instead of nails since I still need my thumbs (don't want to invest in nail guns or other tools since this is a one time deal).
3. where would I get a material list & design

I consider myself a shade tree mechanic & relatively sharp, but I've never worked with wood really. I went to HD & noticed the Simpson straps. There are similar "kits" for sheds that don't require cuts also. Any help would be appreciated.

6768rogues · Mar 21, 2018

Since it sounds like building is not your area of expertise, I suggest getting a precut kit or a built shed. Mennonite and Amish communities have reasonably priced sheds. A precut kit will mean no cutting angles for rafters, etc.
If you do it yourself, buildings that use 4 foot modules waste the least material. 8x8 is a good example. Many building materials come in multiples of 4 feet, so building a size that is not a multiple of 4 will mean cutting some off, and that cutoff might not work in anywhere.

Copymutt · Mar 21, 2018

Can't build it for the price that the Mennonite's sell em and well built.
Jim

EOC_Jason · Mar 21, 2018

If you are intent on building yourself, just go to Lowe's/HD and take a look at how those sheds are built. Bring a measuring tape and a notepad...

Oldgloryfirearms · Mar 21, 2018

Copymutt said:
Can't build it for the price that the Mennonite's sell em and well built.
Jim

Not sure how you figure that... I saving about 2 grand by building one myself this spring.

dsgreen3 · Mar 21, 2018

10 X 16 with 5 ft double doors go for $2500 to $2750 here.

ynned · Mar 21, 2018

texas123 said:
I'm embarrassed to ask such a question on this forum, but here goes...I need a small storage shed in the back yard & Tough Shed seemed quality but more than I'm willing to spend (hoa size restrictions make it not worth it). So if I build one myself (having never worked with wood other than playground kits) & knowing my only wood tools are a circular saw & drill :
1. what size would require the least amount of cuts (around 8x8 is fine)
2. I'd like to use screws instead of nails since I still need my thumbs (don't want to invest in nail guns or other tools since this is a one time deal).
3. where would I get a material list & design

I consider myself a shade tree mechanic & relatively sharp, but I've never worked with wood really. I went to HD & noticed the Simpson straps. There are similar "kits" for sheds that don't require cuts also. Any help would be appreciated.

Google can be helpful, but do not trust Google with personal info. Do not mention Skynet. Do not listen to Alexa. Do not taunt Happy Fun Ball.

https://www.google.com/search?clien...p.......0i71j0i20i263j0i22i10i30.4qclkCATIE4=

jonshonda · Mar 21, 2018

I hate most big box store sheds with a passion. Even if they are "wood", they are typically the cheapest construction possible.

If you have no experience framing, then spend your spare time researching and youtubing. If you don't have the tools to frame, then prepare to spend some cash on top of your materials expense.

It I were to build a shed, it would be on a concrete slab, utilizing typical house framing methods with a roll up door, windows, and metal roof.

glider · Mar 21, 2018

I would check Craigslist for a local shed builder.

DFB · Mar 21, 2018

texas123 said:
knowing my only wood tools are a circular saw & drill

Buy a hammer :lol:

Preferably a 20z or bigger for framing. A 16oz is fine for sheathing and trim

"1. what size would require the least amount of cuts (around 8x8 is fine)"

Base every thing on mutiples of 4 ft measurements it's standard construction economics

"2. I'd like to use screws instead of nails since I still need my thumbs (don't want to invest in nail guns or other tools since this is a one time deal)."

No screws. Though this probably not a code inspected job screws are the wrong choice for building framing. And no one needs $500 worth of air nailers to build a garden shed either! :wtf:

"3. where would I get a material list & design"

There many designs online or buy a book from Amazon on sheds or and outbuildings. Better yet buy one to learn basic construction techniques there are cost saving techniques in many real construction manuals using code rated spacing and spans for your lumber and sheet good choices.

Or maybe find a local mentor to walk you thru the phases as you go along. Remember two rules...square and plumb! :lol_hitti

"I went to HD & noticed the Simpson straps. There are similar "kits" for sheds that don't require cuts also. Any help would be appreciated"

Those kits can work for ya but you really don't need them toughest part for novice is probably laying with framing square a roof rafter cut but there are other ways around that

Building your own shed especially for a novice is great opportunity to learn framing and finish construction. It is work though so if one isn't up to that part of task just go buy something like a lot of these posters would.

texas123 · Mar 21, 2018

What a friendly group of people on this forum. Thanks for all the input; I really apriciate it.
8x8 with a slanted roof & a shed design book or you tube may do it. I'll start soon & post my progress on this thread.

Dyzel83 · Mar 21, 2018

6768rogues said:
Since it sounds like building is not your area of expertise, I suggest getting a precut kit or a built shed. Mennonite and Amish communities have reasonably priced sheds. A precut kit will mean no cutting angles for rafters, etc.

Agree, getting a DIY kit is much easier way.
Before moving to US I had one in my country in Europe. Installed it within two days with my dad :rocker:

I've seen they similar kits as well.

Woz · Mar 21, 2018

As usual the GJ members have provided you with very good answers to your questions. If you can not find a pre cut kit that meets your needs there are many designs available on-line or in shed design books. These designs provide very detail information on the materials and required cuts. If you are not confident in building skills choose a design with the least complicated roof and trim design. Sheds are a great project to improve your woodworking and construction skills.

Heavy Metal Doctor · Mar 21, 2018

without reading other posts - someone else will likely say the same:

RTFB.

In case you never heard that one, it's "Read The Friggin' Book"..... Seriously, it sounds like you have a brain, so I'd recommend going to your favorite home improvement store and get some DIY books on whatever project you have in mind. Read and follow the instructions. This about all I did to get started when I bought my first house 20-some years ago. Everything from my first garden shed to renovations involving all types of building trades work -- the basics to be comfortable diving in came out of a little stack of those DIY books.

driftpin · Mar 21, 2018

The No. 1 thing you need to do, is to research your local city's requirements, you already mentioned the HOA.

DO NOT BUY ANYTHING UNTIL YOU CHECK WITH YOUR COMMUNITY ZONING AND BUILDING REQUIREMENTS!

A start:
height requirement Article IV Sec 1-226(a)
https://library.municode.com/tx/ful...deId=PTIICOOR_APXAZO_ARTIVSPUSRE_S1-226ACUSST

setbacks Article III Sec. 3-165(b)(5)
https://library.municode.com/tx/fulshear/codes/code_of_ordinances?nodeId=PTIICOOR_APXAZO_ARTIIIDIRE

The codes adopted in your community:
http://www.fulsheartexas.gov/services/building_services/permits.php

These are what your design needs to conform to.

Note that there are materials and design standards also.

Here is info from the packet about applying for a permit. Since you need to submit wind load calculations, you need a registered Professional Engineer (P.E.) to do that and to seal the plans.
http://www.fulsheartexas.gov/Residential Building Permit Packet.pdf

I think that in your case, getting a premanufactured structure meeting all the standards will be much-less frustrating, even if it costs more than the simple expedient of buying the material and building something yourself. You as homeowner are the responsible party, ultimately, for compliance with the local land development code. Ignore those codes, standards, and ordinances at your own risk; to do-so could end-up with you having penalties, fines, and even liens against your property by the municipality.

From the Permit Packet:
Within the City of Fulshear city limits, any owner or authorized agent who intends to construct, enlarge, alter, repair, move, demolish, or change the occupancy of a building or structure, or to erect, install, enlarge, alter, repair, remove, convert or replace any electrical, gas, mechanical or plumbing system (the installation of which is regulated by the International Building Code), or to cause any such work to be done, shall first make application to the Building Official and obtain the required permit.

Any contractor who has done work without the required building permit will be fined $350.00. The paying of this fee shall not relieve any person from fully complying with the requirements in the execution of the work nor from any other penalties prescribed in the Code.

I suggest speaking to the building and zoning departments, and ask them whose premanufactured storage products have been getting approval for installation. This is all public knowledge. Then go talk to those providers. Make sure that your talks with them include permitting charges, that they are fully-insured (ask for binders, and contact the insurance company for peace of mind) you might discover they want to charge you $200 for a permit runner to make the application to the building dept. That may be just the cost of doing business. You could inquire about being the 'permit runner,' and trying to save the $, but don't be surprised if they say, 'no.'

Lastly, do not place an order for a premanufactured product before the plans are approved for the structure and installation site plan. This will save you the unfortunate experience of trying to get something approved that does not meet their design, size, or structural standards. The manufacturer should be willing to provide you with the sealed plans prior to you signing a sales contract, even if you have to pay them something for the plans up-front. Believe me, this will be one of the best investments you can make, to save you the frustration, time, and money involved in trying to permit a non-compliant structure.

fdtrucks · Mar 23, 2018

I got a kit from 84 lumber last fall. I got a 12'x12'x12' gambriel style with upgraded roofing, floor and added two windows for $1800 delivered to the house. The big difference is they supply you with bulk lumber rather than pre cut. But a few saw blades wont set you back much. It came with all screws for the construction, except for the roofing. I opted to use my framing nailer for time and ease, so now I have a shitload of screws lol. They have kits that are not gambriel roof that are easier to build. I leveled the ground, and built the floor before having a buddy come and help frame. Once the majority was framed, I did all the rest myself. A big difference between the 84 kit and the other is that I have 2x4's and 2x6's for framing on 20" centers. The HD and Lowes kits used 2x3's on 24" centers. I also had enough leftover lumber to build a 12' long workbench, and some shelving. With the cost savings you could probably hire someone if you dont have a handy family member or friend to build it with you.

6768rogues · Mar 23, 2018

I think screws are a good choice. Not only do they hold well, if you make a mistake you can unscrew it and make it right.

Spareparts · Mar 23, 2018

A few years ago I built a 8' X 12' shed/workshop for all my R/C racing stuff, 8' walls and 4" in 12" roof cost about $2200, but it was insulated and had 1/2"OSB on 3 walls with peg board on the end wall. My suggestion is make it high enough off the ground that it doesn't become a harbour for rodent's. ground hogs, moles, or the neighbor,s cat with a litter of kittens. just noticed your in Texas, Rattle Snakes I had this problem so I raised it up an additional 4" plus it gave it airflow under it. I can heat mine with one of the oil radiator heater's on low even with the temp around "0" As was suggested a book on sheds from your Big Box Store would be worth while. Looking forward to pictures.

markushofer27 · Mar 27, 2018

Regarding nails and saving ur thumb, a spinning torque bit gets ur thumb just as bad!

MikeF2316 · Mar 28, 2018

I put up a Heartland brand shed kit. 8 x 12, and it only cost $1000 tax in. It's normally $1500 plus tax, Lowes had a good sale on! It went together with no cutting, except a couple of the 2x3s were twisted, so I made new ones. In the instructions they say they will provide real engineering drawings to take care of any code issues.

The only thing I don't like about it is the low height. I stored my leaf blower, hedge trimmer, etc. up high in my garage, I wanted all that stuff in the shed. Only trouble is there is no "up high" in the shed.

Click the link in my signature for details, but here is the finished product.

PoorOwner · Mar 28, 2018

MikeF2316 said:
I put up a Heartland brand shed kit. 8 x 12, and it only cost $1000 tax in. It's normally $1500 plus tax, Lowes had a good sale on! It went together with no cutting, except a couple of the 2x3s were twisted, so I made new ones. In the instructions they say they will provide real engineering drawings to take care of any code issues.

The only thing I don't like about it is the low height. I stored my leaf blower, hedge trimmer, etc. up high in my garage, I wanted all that stuff in the shed. Only trouble is there is no "up high" in the shed.

Click the link in my signature for details, but here is the finished product.

Looks nice, but how do you stop water from seeping in from the edges on this slab, or it may not matter if it's just for shovels and garden stuff.

JonBoehman · Mar 29, 2018

https://www.familyhandyman.com/sheds/dream-shed-made-easy/view-all/

I am doing this one this spring as soon as it dries out here

JimVonBaden · Mar 29, 2018

texas123 said:
I'm embarrassed to ask such a question on this forum, but here goes...I need a small storage shed in the back yard & Tough Shed seemed quality but more than I'm willing to spend (hoa size restrictions make it not worth it). So if I build one myself (having never worked with wood other than playground kits) & knowing my only wood tools are a circular saw & drill :
1. what size would require the least amount of cuts (around 8x8 is fine)
2. I'd like to use screws instead of nails since I still need my thumbs (don't want to invest in nail guns or other tools since this is a one time deal).
3. where would I get a material list & design

I consider myself a shade tree mechanic & relatively sharp, but I've never worked with wood really. I went to HD & noticed the Simpson straps. There are similar "kits" for sheds that don't require cuts also. Any help would be appreciated.

As usual, people only read part, then advocate something completely out of whack to what he asked.

If a Tough Shed is too expensive, building one with few skills is not any better, and likely worse. Getting an "8X8" shed from Costco is likely the OP's best bet, and not terribly expensive. https://www.costco.com/Lifetime-Rough-Cut-8'x7.5'-Storage-Shed.product.100370715.html

You wont build one that is sealed, painted, and more durable than this. I actually found a plastic one for $200 on Craig's List new, and added a floor for another $200 6 years ago, and it is holding up great.

Falcon67 · Mar 29, 2018

If you WANT to learn, then I'd suggest one of the many books on the subject from a home center. A garden shed is a pretty easy project, just a big dog house as a basic thing. You'd likely have a lot of fun doing it. There was a nice shed outside Sams yesterday - 8x12 for $1999. The entire trailer load of lumber to frame the walls, door/window headers, garage door beam, etc of my 24' x 40' shop was $700. So you can save a bunch of money DIY.

Offered FWIW.

MikeF2316 · Mar 29, 2018

PoorOwner said:
Looks nice, but how do you stop water from seeping in from the edges on this slab, or it may not matter if it's just for shovels and garden stuff.

The slab was supposed to fit the shed on 3 sides, but they made it too big. Across the front I wanted a control joint like they put on sidewalks, but they didn't have that trowel with them.

Well, there's no problem at the back and far side, as the shed is on the edge on those 2 sides. There is an control cut across the front which worked fine as a drain last summer, but now it's clogged and I'm getting a bit under the front. I used some concrete sealer down the whole side, and some caulking for concrete, and there's no seepage there. As soon as it warms up, I'm going to do the front too. Plus I need a rain gutter on the front, that's another "as soon as it warms up" project.

Coach James · Mar 31, 2018

MikeF2316 said:
The slab was supposed to fit the shed on 3 sides, but they made it too big. Across the front I wanted a control joint like they put on sidewalks, but they didn't have that trowel with them.

Well, there's no problem at the back and far side, as the shed is on the edge on those 2 sides. There is an control cut across the front which worked fine as a drain last summer, but now it's clogged and I'm getting a bit under the front. I used some concrete sealer down the whole side, and some caulking for concrete, and there's no seepage there. As soon as it warms up, I'm going to do the front too. Plus I need a rain gutter on the front, that's another "as soon as it warms up" project.

The concrete crew showed up and didn't bring a hand groover?

Coach

texas123 · Apr 2, 2018

Falcon67 said:
If you WANT to learn, then I'd suggest one of the many books on the subject from a home center. A garden shed is a pretty easy project, just a big dog house as a basic thing. You'd likely have a lot of fun doing it. There was a nice shed outside Sams yesterday - 8x12 for $1999. The entire trailer load of lumber to frame the walls, door/window headers, garage door beam, etc of my 24' x 40' shop was $700. So you can save a bunch of money DIY.

Offered FWIW.

I think you're exactly right. Money isn't the issue really, but value is. (That's why Tuff Shed is out; too small a space for the money to meet hoa height requirements.)

I do think it would be a lot of fun to do it myself. I've even started collecting free lumber from the construction sites (their trash piles), bought a framing nailer off Craigslist & recruited my little girls for help. It's interesting to learn new stuff, especially as a layman.
One thing I'm trying to figure out is how to determine my roof pitch & all the cut angles (Trig). I calculated 24.74 degrees for a 1' rise on a 8.0416'x8.0416' OD shed. So that would make both ends of the boards cut to 65.26 degrees? Sound right?
Trying to use all 8' of siding, so wall height would be 6'8"?

kbs2244 · Apr 2, 2018

Before you spend any money on wood, go to the nearest big box home inprovment store.
They will have a book display with plans for sheds in every kind of story and ability.

Spend a few bucks to find what you feel comfortable with.

JimVonBaden · Apr 3, 2018

kbs2244 said:
Before you spend any money on wood, go to the nearest big box home inprovment store.
They will have a book display with plans for sheds in every kind of story and ability.

Spend a few bucks to find what you feel comfortable with.

Or go to ebay and buy a set of plans. It will tell you how much wood, what sizes, angle of cuts, etc.

IMHO, make sure you have an experienced friend available. It sounds like you are very much a beginner, if simple cut angles are complicated for you. A framing square and Speed Square will give you 90% of the angles you need.

Falcon67 · Apr 3, 2018

Roof pitch depends more on materials. If you are just using steel panels, then whatever keeps the peak of the roof below HOA requirements. If you want pretty shingles to stay on the roof, best be 4:12 or better.

As above - framing square
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2004/09/01/laying-out-a-common-rafter-2

or Speed Square

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-Shed-Roof-Rafters/

texas123 · Apr 4, 2018

Went ahead & started building the shed from scratch. I'm getting a lot of lumber from construction sites in my neighborhood (amazing how much they trash). Got a couple of tools on craigslist (like new dewalt cordless saw & framing gun for $300 for both).
Went with an 8x8 shed, 2x6 floor, 24" OC & 3/4" PT plywood floor.
I made the roof joists angled to 25*, which should give me 1' of elevation (Trigonometry). The walls will be 6'6" tall, so I should be right over 8' (hoa requirements). Any advice would be helpful.

kbs2244 · Apr 4, 2018

You are learning things you will never forget.

driftpin · Apr 4, 2018

Is the floor made of PT joists? It should be. Are you going to use joist hangers? Simpson galvanized products are usually available at HD, Lowe's, & etc. You should have support in the middle of each of the floor joists, and the perimeter beams, just running them at the ends isn't sufficient. I prefer to screw things together using SPAX construction screws or similar. Running 16" O.C. everywhere wouldn't take much-more lumber, and would result in a noticeably stronger structure. If all you did is rest solid 4" thick concrete blocks on top of your grass you probably will have settlement, and a warped floor, according to how the load is distributed, when you load the shed. I do see you used some-sort of stone chips to try to level things beneath the blocks.

What you're doing will last awhile, years probably, and when it's ready to be replaced perhaps your skills and knowledge will allow you to build something better. Working off a plan as was suggested from any of the sources mentioned, would give you a better design, and a longer-lasting storage unit.

texas123 · Apr 4, 2018

driftpin said:
Is the floor made of PT joists? It should be. Are you going to use joist hangers? Simpson galvanized products are usually available at HD, Lowe's, & etc. You should have support in the middle of each of the floor joists, just running them at the ends isn't sufficient. I prefer to screw things together using SPAX construction screws or similar.

PT flooring yep, No joist hangers. The floor joists are only 8' long; the book says 1 on each corner is sufficient. One thing I was confused about is the plywood. Does it run parallel or perpendicular to the joists? Or does it not matter?
Also, how do I secure the roof joists at the top? With nails, screws or is a mending plate enough?

JimVonBaden · Apr 4, 2018

texas123 said:
PT flooring yep, No joist hangers. The floor joists are only 8' long; the book says 1 on each corner is sufficient. One thing I was confused about is the plywood. Does it run parallel or perpendicular to the joists? Or does it not matter?
Also, how do I secure the roof joists at the top? With nails, screws or is a mending plate enough?

I would run it parallel. It will allow all edges to be secured. Otherwise you will have sags across the gaps, though not as bad with T&G.

driftpin · Apr 5, 2018

Since you're on 24" centers, Jim's suggestion of parallel is a good one, for just his reason.

'Sufficient' and 'good' or 'better' are things that you have to decide for yourself. That depends on if you're building something for a customer, for yourself, and of course, your intended use. For instance, if you're building a development, economies of scale mean the difference between amount X of profit, and amount X+ profit, multiplied by the number of units. That's putting it very simple, but I'm sure you understand the principle.

Doing your O.C. spacing at 16" instead of 24" is a good idea if you're planning on storing a heavier load like a riding mower, as opposed to a walk-behind 21" push mower. Same thing for walls, if you're close to the coast, the closer spacing will withstand wind loads better. And for roof sheathing, 1/2" vs. 3/4", which would you rather have your shingles anchored-to? Adding blocks supporting your floor joists at 4' will result in a much-less 'bouncy' floor, every time you enter the building.

The code is prescriptive, it sets minimums, you can exceed that if you choose, to end-up with a better product. That goes-across the trades. I'm sure that how you're proceeding will result in an adequate product for your needs, but especially for something as-small as this, the cost to make it better is minimal in terms of both time and money.

Strapping your rafters is an example of a cost you may take to help keep things in-place, and lateral bracing for shear walls helps to keep things aligned, doors from sagging, and adds significantly to what you end up using.

38Chevy454 · Apr 5, 2018

Those metal joist hangers are cheap. Also very effective. You can still add them now. I also concur that adding couple extra floor joists at 16 inch centers would make a more solid floor. Run the edges parallel as suggested so you can secure it down. Using straps to secure roof joists is also a good idea, again the straps are cheap and effective.

How do you plan to tie the roof joists together at the top? Using a beam lengthwise at the peak? If you are just tying the joists to each other, use some splice straps. Those metal pieces that are available at home improvement store, and like the joist hangers are made to help get a better result.

Nothing wrong with using scrap wood and saving money with cast-offs. Good that you are tackling the job and learning some skills. I am sure the shed will work out great for your needs.

DFB · Apr 6, 2018

Dude you're doing allright

I like your finding material to use with some it's always buy, buy, buy something.

I knew a guy built an entire garage with 4 x 6 plywood all scavenged from some factory warehouse shelving and another using 1x T&G lumber from a similar scavenge.

I built this shed like in '90 with native VT fieldstone for pier footings hasn't moved a bit in all that time proper grading is essential for good drainage.

So this what I did for my rafters I made plywood gussets for the peak and ran attached collar ties across to opposite wall plates. They look like mini trusses in design and give me overhead storage.

I got 11 sheets of 5/8" T1-11 for next to nothing they were damaged on one corner some idiot hit them with forklift or something. I knocked off the damage but cutting them shorter made the wall studs 7 ft I think it still was plenty. Xtra wide door sliding window, shutters flower box the whole nine yards

It's 8 x12 and the roof is 5/12 pitch I remember right and simple to do with a framing square. :thumbup:

texas123 · Apr 7, 2018

Got a Miter saw at HD yesterday on sale; what a huge difference in cut quality vs a circular saw. Also, bought NEW lumber instead of the free stuff at construction sites. Didn't realise 2x4's are supposed to be straight. Here are some pictures of a couple of walls. As usual, any feedback would be appreciated.

grissom · Apr 7, 2018

Keep the pics coming as I need to build a shed also

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