Searching for old garage track rollers
- Thread starter Platonic Solid
- Start date
Hot Rod Grampa
Well-known member
That looks like an old style one piece door. Chances are you will have to create one. There are several companies out west still making one piece door hardware but I have not seen anything that beefy. You may be able fo source a bearing with correct internal dimensions and have a shop make you a shoe or whirl to press on the bearing. You only need 4 of those, correct?
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Yes, Single panel. Only need 2.
I might bail on this quest and just install a new sectional that seals properly. I'm also not sure I have enough ceiling height to make a sectional work.
Image linked to larger view
I might bail on this quest and just install a new sectional that seals properly. I'm also not sure I have enough ceiling height to make a sectional work.
EatonEggbeater
Member
Might be able to find something that'd work here: https://www.mcmaster.com/#drive-rollers/=1dya8q9
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
EatonEggbeater - Yeah, I spent a fair amount of time searching through McMaster Carr. Mounting a new bracket with standard shaft roller might work.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
4xdog
Well-known member
The advantage of things back then is that they were simple, and usually serviceable.
What's the issue with the track rollers you have? I'd be very surprised if a machine shop (or friendly machinist -- we have a few on here) couldn't fix or remake whatever's wrong with them.
What's the issue with the track rollers you have? I'd be very surprised if a machine shop (or friendly machinist -- we have a few on here) couldn't fix or remake whatever's wrong with them.
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
4xdog - You're right - Good point. It may just be the logistics that bug me.
If I could buy new ones it could be done at the same time and the garage door wouldn't be open for an extended period. Now that I have a real floor, I actually care, but I can throw a tarp down to reduce rain damage.
I expect to discover that I need to replace the upper center hanging rollers too. That is a little more interesting as the door has to be closed so once I remove it I'll have to crawl out of the window. Awkward yes, but feasible. (I removed the - not original to the shed - side door during rehab as someone compromised the structure by cutting in a door right through a critical beam.)
Or I could remove the old stuff and jerry rig these in there: (pic linked to HD)
- Open door and block it to remove tension.
- Screw door to blocks so it can't move when rollers are removed.
- Remove, repair, replace lower rollers.
If I could buy new ones it could be done at the same time and the garage door wouldn't be open for an extended period. Now that I have a real floor, I actually care, but I can throw a tarp down to reduce rain damage.
I expect to discover that I need to replace the upper center hanging rollers too. That is a little more interesting as the door has to be closed so once I remove it I'll have to crawl out of the window. Awkward yes, but feasible. (I removed the - not original to the shed - side door during rehab as someone compromised the structure by cutting in a door right through a critical beam.)
Or I could remove the old stuff and jerry rig these in there: (pic linked to HD)
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Sliding "barn" doors are a current interior decorating fad.
But the prices show that.
The first site is a traditional caster co looking to get in on that but with traditional pricing.
Their 3 inch, "V" grove is less than $4.00
Cheap enough that your could upgrade all the doors.
https://casterconnection.com/v-groove-caster-wheel-for-sliding-barn-door/
https://www.dhgate.com/wholesale/barn+door+rollers.html
But the prices show that.
The first site is a traditional caster co looking to get in on that but with traditional pricing.
Their 3 inch, "V" grove is less than $4.00
Cheap enough that your could upgrade all the doors.
https://casterconnection.com/v-groove-caster-wheel-for-sliding-barn-door/
https://www.dhgate.com/wholesale/barn+door+rollers.html
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
kbs2244 - Interesting. Now there's an option I hadn't considered. Not sure how that would work as the door is 8'6" wide and the building interior width is 11'. That leaves me with only 2'6" for sliding room (1'3" per side). Unless I cut the door in half and have one slide in front of the other which I imagine to be even harder to seal.
Hmph - Now you have me thinking I could probably sell the existing door for enough $ to cover the cost of a new sectional.
Hmph - Now you have me thinking I could probably sell the existing door for enough $ to cover the cost of a new sectional.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
So far you have done some really nice work restoring the garage. I would 86 the old door and put in a new one with new tracks, opener, and nice trim with seals to keep the bugs and dirt out.
looking at the pic I'm thinking that new style rollers could be used, with a 3/4" bolt drilled in the center to slip the roller in .
or separate the roller from it's shaft and a bolt machined to accept the roller
or separate the roller from it's shaft and a bolt machined to accept the roller
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
The Cobbler - I believe it's a standard 2" track roller (which I think is ~ 1 13/16"). I haven't put calipers on them for exact measurement. Just to clarify - you're suggesting a 3/4 bolt machined to accept a standard 2" track roller which requires a 7/16" shaft hole. I like it. Simple and effective. Even taking the minor thread diameter of the 3/4 bolt into consideration (~0.625) that leaves ~0.093 bolt wall thickness at thread area - which is certainly more than adequate.
especially if you drill right through so the stem of the new roller is all the way through the bolt . there's no shear point then .
got your PM btw
got your PM btw
I am sorry, I ,is-read your OP to mean you had sliding doors.
Check and see if any of these match what you need.
https://ddmgaragedoors.com/parts/rollers.html
Maybe get a plain stem and cut the threads?
Check and see if any of these match what you need.
https://ddmgaragedoors.com/parts/rollers.html
Maybe get a plain stem and cut the threads?
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lakelandcat
Well-known member
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- Sep 25, 2017
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why can't you cut a new roller and tap the end, double nut on both sides of your bracket it so it won't come loose. Worse case is you have to replace the tracks (which may not be a bad idea) if you want to keep with the antique theme use square nuts and spray with a rust color.
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OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
kbs2244 - I'm glad you mis-read as you've made me seriously consider the merits of selling the 90 year old door and using the proceeds for a sectional that will seal properly.
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
I'm assuming the shoulder on the original is there to keep the cable away from the roller. Not sure how much that matters. The more I read these posts, there has to be 20 different ways to do this. I originally posted seeking a source for the exact item and now find myself in the deep end of the massive GJ collective innovation pool.
lakelandcat
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you might try a architectional salvage, it might get you by a long time. I believe the cable is a safety cable with weight on the eye and shouldn't move. Thats one of the things I like about this site after you cut through all the BS and the insults from the Mensa wannabes, its always good for a different view. Most try to help, and think outside the box.
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I'm assuming the shoulder on the original is there to keep the cable away from the roller. ....
I would agree. I would take a bolt and machine the head round, bore the bolt the proper diam and use 2 nuts at the bracket . that also gives you wiggle to adjust the roller
any updates?
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Depending on price, I'm bailing of this doors restoration since it will never be an adequate rodent barrier. Waiting for a garage door installer to quote installation of a new sectional. I'll likely have to reduce the opening to get the necessary clearance. Might use the old door siding material elsewhere on the structure.
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
ducksface - It's all good. "The Cobbler" has very graciously offered his services via PM.
I don't understand how tin overlay can be used to create an adequate rodent barrier. It's a single panel door:
The original design had 2 vertical 1x4s with 2 obround slots (top and bottom). Carriage bolts through the door -wing nuts towards exterior and a knob in the center. Loosen the wing nuts - push 1x4 toward jam via center knob - then tighten wing nuts.
You can sort of see it in this pic
I don't understand how tin overlay can be used to create an adequate rodent barrier. It's a single panel door:
The original design had 2 vertical 1x4s with 2 obround slots (top and bottom). Carriage bolts through the door -wing nuts towards exterior and a knob in the center. Loosen the wing nuts - push 1x4 toward jam via center knob - then tighten wing nuts.
You can sort of see it in this pic
(linked to larger view):
Rethought it.
A Lowey coupe Studebaker has a brilliant flap that locks overnthe top of the door glass.
A set of flaps along the side that close over the door when you close it.
All mechanical, pretty easy.
A piano hinge and a bottom 'u' plate that opens and closes it with the door.
Someone will post a picture of that window channel for you.
I think somewhere I have an unused door sweep that works the same way.
It might be more than you want to build, but it fits that shed as art.
A Lowey coupe Studebaker has a brilliant flap that locks overnthe top of the door glass.
A set of flaps along the side that close over the door when you close it.
All mechanical, pretty easy.
A piano hinge and a bottom 'u' plate that opens and closes it with the door.
Someone will post a picture of that window channel for you.
I think somewhere I have an unused door sweep that works the same way.
It might be more than you want to build, but it fits that shed as art.
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OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
ducksface - Interesting, but not going to happen. If this thing was in my back yard and I could tinker without the inconvenience of loading the truck up with tools and traveling I'd be more apt to try something that unique.