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Snap On KR-1000A Restoration/Transformation

Darby9

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Jan 18, 2020
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San Francisco
I'm re-organizing my shop and got hooked on the idea of consolidating my various toolboxes into one big boy. I don't go to the track any more, but I still keep my tools in various small-ish boxes (top chests, an army surplus hip roof, a few Rubbermaid totes) and my new mill came with a cheap-o rolling cart that's taking up valuable floor space in my tiny shop.

I started looking for a Matco or Mac box on CL, but then my cheapskate self found a cruelly used Snap On and I talked myself into believing a $600 beatup Snappy was better than a well-cared-for $1500 Matco, so here we go...

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Supposedly it was owned by a diesel mechanic who then left it in a body shop to collect overspray in all its drawer slides. And I'm assuming he also had a goat that liked to gnaw on aluminum drawer trim.

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My goal is to get this looking "good-enough" by toolbox standards, and also make it into a workstation for my mill.
 
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Darby9

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Here it is torn down, and mostly ready for blast and powdercoat. I did some hammer and dolly work on a couple of the drawers to square them back up, but I'm not going for concours quality here. It's a toolbox.

I read a few posts on here about using the special Snap On tool to disengage the drawer slides from the box, but I was able to drill out the rivets, and then knock them free with a wooden block and a hammer. Maybe the older boxes like this have a simpler dent/bayonet system?

Anyway, took about a day's work and 64 oz of Sierra Nevada Torpedo Ale to get the trim off, slides out, drawer liners out, casters off, and the big dents turned into smaller dents.
 

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Wamsutta

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Amarillo, Texas
Here it is torn down, and mostly ready for blast and powdercoat. I did some hammer and dolly work on a couple of the drawers to square them back up, but I'm not going for concours quality here. It's a toolbox.

I read a few posts on here about using the special Snap On tool to disengage the drawer slides from the box, but I was able to drill out the rivets, and then knock them free with a wooden block and a hammer. Maybe the older boxes like this have a simpler dent/bayonet system?

Anyway, took about a day's work and 64 oz of Sierra Nevada Torpedo Ale to get the trim off, slides out, drawer liners out, casters off, and the big dents turned into smaller dents.


Yes the older boxes didn't have that claw thing on the slides that requires the special pry bar.

Here's the paint code and the powder coat code if you decide to go for the authentic look.

Snap-on Red: -- PPG Ditzler 73504 -- AR320 Resin
 
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Darby9

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Here's the paint code and the powder coat code if you decide to go for the authentic look.

Thanks Wamsutta. I considered a stock red, but I don't have any other Snap On boxes I have to match it with, so I'm going green. It may look like a road sign--we'll see.
 
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Darby9

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OK, the custom bits: I hunted for a middle box or a hutch for a little while, but I need hardware space more than drawer space, and I'd have to modify any hutch I bought. So, I drew up this hutch-ish thing. There's a toolholder for the mill, hanging bins for hardware, a shelf I'll clutter immediately, a power outlet with USB charger, and lights. I do a fair amount of sheet metal design work in Solidworks, and tried to keep it simple.

I considered making this myself on a friend's plasma table & brake, but work got crazy in December, and I sent it out. When I came back from vacation, there was a pallet of 16 ga steel waiting for me to mock up.

I put most of the holes and slots into the CAD, but left out a few on purpose so I could square it all up and match drill stuff like the mounting holes into the box top. I also designed this before the drawers were out, so I didn't know what structure I'd have to avoid inside the box...
 

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Speed-Racer

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Looking forward to seeing your restored tool box and custom hutch. Thanks for posting.
 

Ohmthis

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Jan 20, 2013
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Outside of Louisville KY
This looks great! I have a KR 660 that I want to restore/clean up. I can’t get myself to completely take it down. Im looking at wrapping the box and drawers with vinyl.
 
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Darby9

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This looks great! I have a KR 660 that I want to restore/clean up. I can’t get myself to completely take it down. Im looking at wrapping the box and drawers with vinyl.

It's not that bad--it took me a couple afternoons to get it apart and cleaning the slides has been the most time consuming part since then. If I'd stripped the paint myself, that would have been a PITA, but I was happy to leave that to the sand blaster.
 
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Darby9

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While the cabinet and drawers were off at the spa, I freshened up the casters and the drawer trim. Most of these pics are of the Before state. I guess I was more impressed with how ugly they were when I started. I started sanding and polishing one piece of drawer trim, and realized they were too far gone to really polish, so I got the gunk and overspray off with acetone, filed down the gouges, and hit it all with some Scotchbrite--it's a reasonable compromise.

The drawer slides sucked. I sat at my garage door with a wire brush, some rags, and a gallon of diesel. For hours. But, I saved 26 out of 30. The ones from the bottom drawers are bent to hell and missing balls out of their bearings.

Thanks for reading. It'll get prettier, I promise.
 

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Darby9

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That is impressive. I can't wait to see the end result.

Thanks! So far it's been mostly elbow grease and patience. I have more of one than the other.

UPS man had presents today from Snap On--detent/stopper thingees and a new set of drawer slides. Big Boy Christmas!
 

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Darby9

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My GJ posting is running slightly behind reality, but here's the return of the Green Monster and start of its re-assembly. The color was a solid decision.

Paint quality: I'm really happy with what I got. I did minimal prep, and took this to a shop that does industrial powder coating. They media blasted and powdercoated everything with a Cardinal-brand color they stock. If it was a Ferrari and I spent $20K, I'd be annoyed. But it's not and I did not, so I'm juiced by how well it turned out.

I mounted a single 3' LED tube from Home Depot in the top of the "hutch", and the rotary switches operate the light and the outlet independently, so I can either leave the bench live to charge something, or shut it all down without unplugging a bunch of stuff.
 

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fatfillup

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Finksburg, Md
That is coming along beautifully. The KR1000 is one of the best boxes Snap on ever made IMO and lots of other folks too.

You will end up with a sweet looking, high quality, UNIQUE tool box that will look good in your shop.

And that box will last the rest of your life,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,or until you fill it up and need more space GJ style:lol_hitti
 
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Darby9

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Thanks for all the kind words. :beer:

That is coming along beautifully. The KR1000 is one of the best boxes Snap on ever made IMO and lots of other folks too.

You will end up with a sweet looking, high quality, UNIQUE tool box that will look good in your shop.

And that box will last the rest of your life,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,or until you fill it up and need more space GJ style:lol_hitti

It's a tank, all right. I'm thinking this one will last me a long while. I'm not a pro, and I've survived with smaller boxes for a long time.

Great job! I’m excited it with all the drawers in. Not to be nosy, do you mind disclosing what you have into box restoration?

I'm guessing it'll come in a little under $2k. And if I think it's going over, I'll stop doing the math. :)

Box: $600
Outsourced work (sheet metal, plus blast & powdercoat 28 pieces): $1000
Electrical (light, switches, outlet, 20' cord): $100ish
Drawer liners and top mat: $125
Machine screws, rivets, gray paint for the back etc: $50ish.
 
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designer485

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Jan 12, 2010
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Orange County, CA
Great job on the restoration! The KR1000 is just such a classic. There is nothing like loading up a freshly redone box.

Be sure to post finished pictures with all the drawers back in.
 
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Darby9

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Re-assembly progress... The back is 3/8" plywood, painted to match a bin rack I already had. Put new stopper/detent thingees on the slides, and got the lock mechanisms back together before starting on drawers.

I numbered everything as it came apart and the painters preserved my numbers, so it's gone back together pretty well. Current Me is grateful to Previous Me for that. But I wish Previous Me had taken better pictures of the locking linkage...

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njride

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Great job, i bought a kr1000 for 600 too a while ago, luckily it wasnt in a body shop but its pretty well used. I still felt like i got the deal of a lifetime at that price. You chose a great color too. I dont really need any slides but out of curiousity i was looking them up a while ago and i couldnt find where to get them. Did your snap on guy just happen to have some?
 

Ohmthis

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Great job, i bought a kr1000 for 600 too a while ago, luckily it wasnt in a body shop but its pretty well used. I still felt like i got the deal of a lifetime at that price. You chose a great color too. I dont really need any slides but out of curiousity i was looking them up a while ago and i couldnt find where to get them. Did your snap on guy just happen to have some?

I emailed Snap On directly and got slides for my older box. I was honest in that I was not the original owner and needed some slides and could you hey help me with the correct ones. I gave them any info they needed from the box. They asked me how many I needed and sent them for free. That is great customer service.
 

Ohmthis

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Thanks for all the kind words. :beer:



It's a tank, all right. I'm thinking this one will last me a long while. I'm not a pro, and I've survived with smaller boxes for a long time.



I'm guessing it'll come in a little under $2k. And if I think it's going over, I'll stop doing the math. :)

Box: $600
Outsourced work (sheet metal, plus blast & powdercoat 28 pieces): $1000
Electrical (light, switches, outlet, 20' cord): $100ish
Drawer liners and top mat: $125
Machine screws, rivets, gray paint for the back etc: $50ish.


Wowser!!! That’s quite a bit! The box is well worth what you have done to it.
 

Evilunclegrimace

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Erie Pa
The KRA 1000 is my favorite box. I purchased mine new in the late '80's for about $4,700.00. You have done a very nice job restoring yours and I really like the color. I might have to borrow your hutch idea if and when I get spare time and money to under take the project.
 
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Darby9

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San Francisco
Did your snap on guy just happen to have some?


Same as @Ohmthis--I contacted them direct.

Wowser!!! That’s quite a bit! The box is well worth what you have done to it.

It added up, for sure. The alternative was $1200 for a decent Mac or Matco, then rig up a Unistrut hutch with plywood shelves and a powerstrip and buy a CNC toolholder and... I'd end up with something just as functional but would look pieced together, and cost maybe $200 less. That's my usual MO, and I'm trying to do better. The collet holder drove the price up a little--chopping out all the little numbers takes laser time, and there are 48 PEM studs pressed into it to hold the plastic bushings I'll eventually machine.

I also want my shop to look a little more professional than it has. I don't have clients in it very often, but when I do, I want it to look like I'm worth the money they're paying me. No more repainted kitchen cabinets and MDF workbenches.
 

derek_m

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Oct 5, 2014
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142
That looks really good. I've been wanting to do this with my '88 KR-1000A. Tracking down parts has been difficult but interesting to hear that SO has been helpful.
 
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Darby9

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Just so we're on the same page; I'm talking about the KRL slides where you have a rear bayonet, a front bayonet, and then a 3rd claw thing a little ways rearward of the front bayonet.

This one doesn't have the 3rd claw, but it does have a rivet near the front edge. Drill that, and then whack the slide with a block of wood.

That looks really good. I've been wanting to do this with my '88 KR-1000A. Tracking down parts has been difficult but interesting to hear that SO has been helpful.

So far, they've been great. Last drawer slide is on back order, but supposedly on its way soon.
 
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