0-10V dimmer. Daylight harvesting. Vacancy sensor.

[Lelandwelds]

Can you use more than one type on the same lights? What are the ins and outs? As a percentage of the total cost, they're pretty cheap.

If I overlamp a bit, I would like to permanently set the lights dimmed a bit and leave them. I am considering 280 sq ft of polygal windows. It might be nice to have auto dimmed lights to even out the natural light shadows. If I get interrupted for longer than expected, it would be nice if the lights turned themselves off.

Do I have to choose one and forget the others?

Are the controls even worth looking at? I want to save electricity if I can but that isn't what occupies my thoughts.

 

[matt_i]

Imo its a greater expense to buy a LED driver that is dimmable over one that's just "on at full capacity"....trying to setup a control loop to compensate for daylight or lack thereof is cool if you have the time and skills.

Personally I think light is good and its hard to get too much inside a building. If you are worried, setup a gang of switches that control some kind of checkerboard pattern of fixtures so they come on in stages. Or go with a basic lamping but augument with task lighting over critical areas/machines/processes.

If you want auto-off then you need some more controls and more complexity to the wiring or switchgear. A simple 7 day timer would be sufficient to enforce the "auto-off" by inhibiting power to all lighting circuits but then you need to go in at 10pm...you use the bypass but forget about that....imo simplest tried and true formula is to turn off the lights when you leave or else pay the increased electric bill if you didn't.

 

[cybrdyke]

Nearly every new LED fixture comes with a 0-10VDC controllable driver these days. Yes, you can use multiple controls on one circuit. In fact, Lutron makes a wallbox combo unit (MSZ101) that is an Occupancy/Vacancy sensor + 0-10VDC Dimmer.
If you want to get more fancy, you could connect your 0-10 wires to a small control box and then have multiple sensors, dimmers, daylighters, etc., all wireless.
So, yes, you can do what you want and it's pretty easy.
Good luck,
CD

 

[Lelandwelds]

....trying to setup a control loop to compensate for daylight or lack thereof is cool if you have the time and skills.

.

I am not really interested in the clunky mechanical timer lighting controls. My schedule is too erratic! The ceiling mounted motion detectors have caught my eye. The reading I have stumbled through so far says I just need to run an extra pair of wire to operate the dimmers. I believe just one of these can control all the lights. https://beeslighting.com/sensor-switch-ceiling-occupancy-sensor/p/CMR-PDT-9

The controls don't seem that expensive. An extra $20 or $100 isn't that much extra if you're installing twelve or fifteen of these. https://beeslighting.com/diva-light-led-high-bay/p/LHB-110W-U-50K-D10

 

[Lelandwelds]

Nearly every new LED fixture comes with a 0-10VDC controllable driver these days. Yes, you can use multiple controls on one circuit. In fact, Lutron makes a wallbox combo unit (MSZ101) that is an Occupancy/Vacancy sensor + 0-10VDC Dimmer.
If you want to get more fancy, you could connect your 0-10 wires to a small control box and then have multiple sensors, dimmers, daylighters, etc., all wireless.
So, yes, you can do what you want and it's pretty easy.
Good luck,
CD

Thank you CD. The case studies and marketing lit were not clear.

 

[matt_i]

Note the ones sold on that site are not the -D suffix =photocell or the -ADR suffix =auto dimming strategy versions. The [blank] or -2P suffix is just a 1 or 2 relay version controlling 120-277vac......my WAG is the other styles are more coin.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Note the ones sold on that site are not the -D suffix =photocell or the -ADR suffix =auto dimming strategy versions. The [blank] or -2P suffix is just a 1 or 2 relay version controlling 120-277vac......my WAG is the other styles are more coin.

I have read your post a dozen times and do not understand what you said. Almost all LED lights nicer than the "cheapest possible" type come stock with 0 -10 V dimming. I only need to add one dimming photocell and one vacancy sensor to trim the max light level, top off varying daylight input, and turn off all lights if I wander off for a half hour or so. If my amps are too high, I may need a relay to handle switching.

Are you thinking I need each individual lamp to throttle up and wink off individually? That sounds busy. I find the "thousand points of light" and the weird "do I see a flicker" annoying in the cheap clear conversion tubes. Picture that on steroids? I don't thinks so. I want something no one notices unless they work with it a while.

 

[matt_i]

More or less, the occupancy sensor sold for $94 is just a relay that turns an electrical load (lights) on or off based on if it thinks a person is in the space.

To get one with a photocell that recognizes a daylight-threshold and presumably also inhibits the lights on or off in response to existing daylight (or lack thereof), and in addition to the presence/absence of a person, one would need to buy the part with part number ending in -D (the -D suffix). That's a different one than the one sold for $94.

To get one with an automatic reduction of the lighting intensity in response to increasing or decreasing daylight (and outputting the 0-10vdc analog control voltage to adjust lighting intensity) one would need to buy a part ending in -ADR (the -ADR suffix). That's also different than the one sold for $94.

That's all I was getting at. I would wild guess the latter versions are more expensive.