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0 to 10 volt led and dimmer wiring

signcrafter

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Joined
May 9, 2012
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12,489
Bought three 2x4 led trough lights to replace the old fluorescents in the basement. Got them from menards and the box said dimmable with led dimmer. Got them installed and they are super bright so bought an led comparable dimmer and they flicker when you try to dim them. So went back and read the light instructions and they need a 0 to 10 volt dimmer. Picked one of them up today and never having dealt with them I didnt realise they not only need a hot and neutral, they also need a positive and negative for the dimming feature.

What are my options for adding these extra wires? Can I just run another 14-2 romex? Or can I run a smaller gauge wire just for the dimming wires? Or do I need to run a specialty wore that has the 14-2 and dimming wires all in one? Obviously running another wire like 14-2 would be the cheapest and easiest for me but never having run into something like this I dont know what is proper.

Thanks
 
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wyliesdiesels

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Aug 14, 2012
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Location
Modesto, CA
code requires all the conductors for the circuit to be together.

you should run the PCS-Duo cable. it has everything you need.
 
OP
S

signcrafter

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May 9, 2012
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12,489
code requires all the conductors for the circuit to be together.

you should run the PCS-Duo cable. it has everything you need.
This got expensive real quick.

So out of curiosity this will have high and low voltage in the same box, I didnt think that was allowed? But I dont know much.
 
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BreeStephany

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May 19, 2012
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Oregon
Because the dimming is done through a 0-10VDC signal cable, the dimming cable shall be run separately from line voltage conductors UNLESS the dimming cables are rated at the same class as your line voltage conductors.

NMB (i.e. romex cable) is 600V rated. THHN is 600V rated. You can run a single cable with multiple conductors, but in this case, all conductors would have to be 600V rated conductors.

If you are running cabling behind sheetrock, there is no need to run an additional 600V rated cable between the fixture and your dimming signal source, you can use 18ga 2 conductor jacketed cable (CMR/bellwire/tstat cable) from the dimming source to the fixture. With that said, if your fixtures are mounted to boxes, the dimming cable shall utilize a rated low voltage/line voltage separated box, a separate box or you can stub the dimming cable through the sheetrock and utilize a separate knockout on the fixture to route the dimming cable to maintain separation between line voltage and low voltage sources.

Your dimming control device will likely require a 120VAC source to power in order to produce the 0-10VDC signal output for dimming the fixture. Make sure you look at your dimmer to see what the wiring requirements are for this.

Just my two cents.
 

cybrdyke

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Sep 9, 2014
Messages
3,449
Location
USA
Sorry for your pain. You're learning a hard lesson.
A lot of advice you hear from local knuckleheads is "you can never have too much light. Get the brightest thing you can". Now you know how bad that advice is and what a pain it is to fix that.
It might be too late to return those fixtures and get some that are more appropriate, but if not, consider that.
Between your wire options, the Duo wire will be the easiest to use. Yes, it's pricey. But, there is no code issue with the wire or the wall box. Use a device like the Cooper/Eaton SF10P in the box.
In a pro job, it would be done differently. The fixtures would just get power and then the control wires would go to a "little black box" in the ceiling. The black box talks wirelessly to a remote control. There's no wire from the fixtures to a wallbox. It's not all that expensive to do, but in your case of just 3 fixtures, you'd probably think differently.
Good luck,
CD
 
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