1/2 " Impact Wrench

[SK-Mike]

Looking at getting an Impact wrench for homeowner general use, like for when I rotate tires, removing wheels to inspect brakes, etc.

I have several tools in the Dewalt 20v line, Dewalt offers a 1/2" impact in this cordless version, which I guess the portability would be handy for on the road trips when pulling the boat if I ever had a flat on either the truck or boat trailer beside the road, as I always take my Dewalt flashlight with me on any trips just to have a dependable flashlight with me just in case.

Or I could get the pneumatic that runs off of an air compressor, which would most likely have more torque.

For my uses would the 20v Cordless be adequate in power/torque?

I currently only have a small Air Compressor (Hot dog 2gallon tank size) and I assume a much larger compressor would be needed to run an impact wrench, so this route would prolly require a Compressor upgrade also, which isn't necessarily a bad thing, just more expensive.

But I like the idea of a cordless model I can take on trips, but I'm skeptical of their ability.

Any input appreciated. Thanks from a newbie.

 

[ihateminimumwage]

I would go with cordless. Get the biggest available in the 20v line and call it good. With air you'll be limited to the tank and how much time it takes to fill. I have a nail gun tank that can make it through maybe a lug or two per fill, but that's a 1-1/16" socket on F350 lug nuts.

After switching to cordless 3/8" in a professional setting, I pretty much never break out the air until I need 1/2", and I'll be getting into the M18 1/2" soon enough, so it will be air less and less.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I'd say if you don't have a capable compressor, you are probably better off with the cordless. For road trips where you are towing, that would come in handy.

 

[wild cowboy]

neither cordless, nor pneumatic, I just bought this one and love it!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/4CY3F1c6aBQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[SK-Mike]

that was impressive

 

[6-Speed]

Go the cordless route with at least an 18V Li-Ion battery. They are more than capable of removing lug nuts.

 

[928'er]

neither cordless, nor pneumatic, I just bought this one and I love it!

Corded impact isn't going to do you much good on the road....

 

[whitetrash1]

get the milwaukee m18 fuel and call it a day

 

[Heavymetalmechanic]

+1 on the fuel, but you mentioned you were already invested in the Dewalt line, I have no experiance with that product line. Your compressor would have a hard time doing more then 1 lug nut at a time, if that, with an pneumatic. Corded impacts don't get a lot of attention but are a great option if you want power without having air. For basic homeowner use a top of the line cordless will do fine, if you have multiple batteries.

 

[Banshee365]

I got the M18 fuel and it zips lugs off my 2.5 ton military truck like its nothing.

 

[davesnothere]

get the milwaukee m18 fuel and call it a day

This.

 

[SASORacing]

I third the Milwaukee red tools. The m18 with a 1/2 inch anvil is a great tool with lots of potential. Cordless which is nice. Not needing to be connected to air.
I have the Fuel 3/8th version which is well suited for most bolts except for lug nuts. However I did use it for 21mm lugnuts the other day after I broke them loose with a long ratchet. It spun them off well.

It has 1400 inch pounds torque. And is the m12 version so it's very compact and lightweight.

My m12 fuel 3/8 would go great with the m12 1/2 someday. That combo would cover all bases.

 

[GSteg]

This should be plenty for lug nuts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-IN-BOX-...1518460100?pt=Power_Tools&hash=item3f37c2e8c4

You would have to spend at least $400 to buy into the M18 setup impact setup. It offers no benefits over the Dewalt in your situation. $130 shipped for the Dewalt impact.. it's a no-brainer.

 

[justme-]

I have a bit of a different view - skip the cordless unless you have other tools that share the same battery tech. The thing is, if you don't use and exercise batteries they die. the worst thing for a battery is to be left sitting idle uncharged. How often do you really think you'll use an impact? Well, if you are hard on brakes - once per year?...do you have snow tires on spare rims to change over? There's 2 more per year... there are few things a regular homeowner really needs (or can use) a 1/2 inch impact on... and the 3/8 cordless ones are more useful but still , unless you do a lot of handyman projects or equipment repairs it's not much use day to day.

I love the Milwaukee M18 3/8 - use it daily at work... but even being a shadetree mechanic all my life I have little need at home.
I have a 4 gallon portable compressor which runs an old style Earthquake from HF (IR 231 clone) with ease as long as I don't try banging off all the lugs like it's a NASCAR pit stop. I actually bought a real IR231 off ebay freshly rebuilt for myself at work for the cost of the rebuild kit ($25) and have seen quite a few in that range on there. the 231 will take a beating and take off almost any lugnut you'll ever run into unlike the homeowner aimed stuff from Campbell Hausfeld, Husky, Kobalt, Sears...

It's a nice idea to take a cordless on the road for flats with the boat... but realistically, how often does that happen, and how often are you going to check and recharge the battery so when it does finally happen the impact isn't dead in the box? My father wants a 3/8 M18 for the road with his 5th wheel...at 75 years old and planning to travel cross country fairly regularly, that's reasonable (he'll also have a generator so corded would be an option). I have never had a flat on a trailer on the road and while I'm not and never have been a taking the boat somewhere every weekend fishing person, I've hauled trailers more than the average person. Do good pre trip checks and you'll likely never need it. If you do get a flat, the right hand tools are just as good - I often change the tires on my 3/4 ton truck with a 1/2" breaker bar and cheater pipe (which I carry behind the seat since the factory tool snapped the first time I needed it on the side of the road). It's not that hard or that long a process, and the cheater isn't needed on my car or our minivan - just the breaker bar.

Point is if you want to spend $$ go ahead. Do you need it? Is it actually filling the need or the want? I have a HF electric very similar to the kobalt above - works great and cost about $50. Takes those lugs off my truck no sweat too. Easier than hauling out the compressor and hose. My father has an electric impact from the all metal tool body era - B&D or Millers Falls, can't remember which. Used that for years pulling wheels for repairs when I was growing up...worked much better than the CH air impact that was supposed to be strong enough to pull wheels but never was.

 

[GSteg]

He already has some of the Dewalt 20v tools.

 

[redmed]

I can't believe how many girlie guys there are on this forum wanting a impact wrench to take off/on lug nuts. Really?

 

[SASORacing]

It's not about being a girl. It's about working smart.

Why don't me and you have a little contest tonight.

Let's go out to our garage. Each of us is allowed enough tools to rotate all 4 tires.

You will get a jack, a 21mm socket, and a 1/2in wrench of your choice.

- I get a jack, a 21mm socket, and my old 1/2 MAC air impact.

Ready go.

I will be showered and asleep by the time you are done.. but hey your a tough man right.

 

[blackedout12v]

Get the dewalt 20v with the 400ft /lb rating with the friction ring bare tool if possible. I personally own it and it will rip lug nuts off of my cummins (8 lug ) like a champ.. you will not be disappointed with it for your needs. On a side note , I had to buy mine in a kit to get the friction ring model with the 400 rating. Dont know if I was looking in the wrong places or what. I could only find bare tool in the detent pin version with the 400 rating.

 

[blackedout12v]

I would bet money redmed doesn't own a dually or a 8 lug wheel truck.

 

[stikman56]

Price range for pneumatic?

 

[redmed]

I would bet money redmed doesn't own a dually or a 8 lug wheel truck.

I own a 8 lug truck that has a socket & breaker bar behind the seat.
I'm not going to carry generator or air compressor & impact or charge a battery every time I drive my truck.

 

[Kracin]

It's not about being a girl. It's about working smart.

Why don't me and you have a little contest tonight.

Let's go out to our garage. Each of us is allowed enough tools to rotate all 4 tires.

You will get a jack, a 21mm socket, and a 1/2in wrench of your choice.

- I get a jack, a 21mm socket, and my old 1/2 MAC air impact.

Ready go.

I will be showered and asleep by the time you are done.. but hey your a tough man right.

it's more like, the more you let the tools do the work, the less your back will be hurting later from all the bending and pulling, a squat and trigger pull to take tires off and put them on, vs bending over and yanking on a breaker bar 60 times just to change or rotate tires...

some guys at work don't carry anything but the bare essentials around the plant.. i carry some cordless tools because i don't think it's smart to have to sit there with a wrench and turn a nut for a few minutes when it can be off and the job can be done in a few seconds.

 

[Kracin]

I own a 8 lug truck that has a socket & breaker bar behind the seat.
I'm not going to carry generator or air compressor & impact or charge a battery every time I drive my truck.

realistically if you carried an impact with a large cap battery back there instead, the charge would last a significantly longer time than necessary, and it would zip through all those lugs in no time vs a breaker bar.

besides, no one is arguing that you can't build a deck with a yankee screwdriver, but is there any reason to use one when they make drills and impact drivers that help you get the job done? or is it sissy to make cuts with a circular saw instead of using the ole hand saw?



i have every tool needed to make a job easy, but that doesn't mean that i don't carry a set of tools to deal with on the road problems that aren't powered as well, stuff that stays in that spot and never comes out unless the car needs it somewhere away from the garage. so i hear you on that point, but not when you are at home ya know...

 

[zhome888]

Looks like it works great, may even get one to see how good they are.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I don't use an impact for my day job, but I use one to maintain my vehicles and race cars. Because I don't use power tools on a weekly basis, I chose to use pneumatic tools for their price, power, and ease of maintenance. I have always had batteries go bad on every cordless tool I've owned long before the tool died. I still think a DeWalt corldess is good if you regularly charge your batteries and take it on the road. If not, I would spend some money on upgrading your compressor. Quality 1/2" pneumatic impacts can be had for $100. I bought my Chicago Pneumatic (not to be confused with Central Pneumatic) for $25 used on Ebay and it's ripped off my F350 lug nuts with ease for years. I just picked up a Napa 3/8" gun for $39. Both of these are powered by a portable Made In USA Ingersoll Rand that I bought new for $375. I think the tank is only 20gal, but it has a 100% duty cycle, so I hardly ever outrun it.

 

[redmed]

I don't use an impact for my day job, but I use one to maintain my vehicles and race cars. Because I don't use power tools on a weekly basis, I chose to use pneumatic tools for their price, power, and ease of maintenance. I have always had batteries go bad on every cordless tool I've owned long before the tool died. I still think a DeWalt corldess is good if you regularly charge your batteries and take it on the road. If not, I would spend some money on upgrading your compressor. Quality 1/2" pneumatic impacts can be had for $100. I bought my Chicago Pneumatic (not to be confused with Central Pneumatic) for $25 used on Ebay and it's ripped off my F350 lug nuts with ease for years. I just picked up a Napa 3/8" gun for $39. Both of these are powered by a portable Made In USA Ingersoll Rand that I bought new for $375. I think the tank is only 20gal, but it has a 100% duty cycle, so I hardly ever outrun it.

In my shop I usually grab the 4-way, break the nut loose with two hands then give the 4-way a spin, not that hard. For my wheels I like to be sure the lugs are centered and torqued correctly. My life is too important to have improperly mounted wheels. I tighten the lugs in a star pattern and snug them up progressively going around the wheel about three times, each time tightening the lugs tighter.

When I come back from the tire shop where the workers power on the lugs with impact wrenches I loosen the lugs then re-tighten them by hand. I have found stripped threads bent wheels (from way too much torque) and have warped rotors from being overtightened and some lugs torqued much more than others. I have had get my air impact out just to loosen lugs from some of these.

I started doing this after a tire shop guy powered on my lugs and I had a flat. The factory lug wrench could not get the lugs loose and I was stranded by the side of the road. Fortunately a guy stopped and had a breaker bar between the two of us we finally busted the lugs loose. I now carry a 4-way in each of my vehicles plus a breaker bar in my truck. I don't have the room or the money to have a impact wrench in each of my vehicles.

I own and use a air impact when necessary suspension bolts etc. I find it a pain firing up the compressor, getting out the hose then rolling up the hose. Plus I don't trust getting each lug torqued evenly with a impact wrench. We get caught up with our toys sometimes to our determent. I have been eyeing a M18 fuel 1/2" impact but even if I do get it I still will tighten my lug nuts by hand.

 

[stikman56]

In my shop I usually grab the 4-way, break the nut loose with two hands then give the 4-way a spin, not that hard. For my wheels I like to be sure the lugs are centered and torqued correctly. My life is too important to have improperly mounted wheels. I tighten the lugs in a star pattern and snug them up progressively going around the wheel about three times, each time tightening the lugs tighter.

When I come back from the tire shop where the workers power on the lugs with impact wrenches I loosen the lugs then re-tighten them by hand. I have found stripped threads bent wheels (from way too much torque) and have warped rotors from being overtightened and some lugs torqued much more than others. I have had get my air impact out just to loosen lugs from some of these.

I started doing this after a tire shop guy powered on my lugs and I had a flat. The factory lug wrench could not get the lugs loose and I was stranded by the side of the road. Fortunately a guy stopped and had a breaker bar between the two of us we finally busted the lugs loose. I now carry a 4-way in each of my vehicles plus a breaker bar in my truck. I don't have the room or the money to have a impact wrench in each of my vehicles.

I own and use a air impact when necessary suspension bolts etc. I find it a pain firing up the compressor, getting out the hose then rolling up the hose. Plus I don't trust getting each lug torqued evenly with a impact wrench. We get caught up with our toys sometimes to our determent. I have been eyeing a M18 fuel 1/2" impact but even if I do get it I still will tighten my lug nuts by hand.

I've found that after some time I've gotten good enough with an impact ,I can take them off, put them on almost up to torque then torque them by hand. I'd never just put a wheel on with an impact, way too risky. It took a while for me to get a good idea of how much torque you are putting on a bolt with an impact, that's for sure, but once you do, wrenching gets a lot quicker. I've never heard a boss complain about anyone using them.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

In my shop I usually grab the 4-way, break the nut loose with two hands then give the 4-way a spin, not that hard. For my wheels I like to be sure the lugs are centered and torqued correctly. My life is too important to have improperly mounted wheels. I tighten the lugs in a star pattern and snug them up progressively going around the wheel about three times, each time tightening the lugs tighter.

When I come back from the tire shop where the workers power on the lugs with impact wrenches I loosen the lugs then re-tighten them by hand. I have found stripped threads bent wheels (from way too much torque) and have warped rotors from being overtightened and some lugs torqued much more than others. I have had get my air impact out just to loosen lugs from some of these.

I started doing this after a tire shop guy powered on my lugs and I had a flat. The factory lug wrench could not get the lugs loose and I was stranded by the side of the road. Fortunately a guy stopped and had a breaker bar between the two of us we finally busted the lugs loose. I now carry a 4-way in each of my vehicles plus a breaker bar in my truck. I don't have the room or the money to have a impact wrench in each of my vehicles.

I own and use a air impact when necessary suspension bolts etc. I find it a pain firing up the compressor, getting out the hose then rolling up the hose. Plus I don't trust getting each lug torqued evenly with a impact wrench. We get caught up with our toys sometimes to our determent. I have been eyeing a M18 fuel 1/2" impact but even if I do get it I still will tighten my lug nuts by hand.

I'm with you, all my lugs are torqued with a Proto torque wrench, but I'm not going to R&R 32 lug nuts (or even 8 for that matter) by hand if I can use an impact. I check tire pressures everytime I change a tire, so the compressor and hose are coming out. A 15' hose makes this much easier and quicker.

 

[RedneckWelder]

I can't believe how many girlie guys there are on this forum wanting a impact wrench to take off/on lug nuts. Really?

I use an impact wrench on most any bolt I can get the impact wrench to, at least for loosening. It saves me a whole lot of time and effort.

 

[SASORacing]

Its easy to use finesse with a good impact. But i always start the lug nuts by hand and give them a few.turns. from there gently squeezing the trigger of the 1/2 impact is fairly easy. My time is way too valuable to even think about using a manurl wrench when my impact is siting there.

 

[BK13]

I've found that after some time I've gotten good enough with an impact ,I can take them off, put them on almost up to torque then torque them by hand. I'd never just put a wheel on with an impact, way too risky. It took a while for me to get a good idea of how much torque you are putting on a bolt with an impact, that's for sure, but once you do, wrenching gets a lot quicker. I've never heard a boss complain about anyone using them.

Technology replacing skill... I just set the power setting on my M18 impact wrench to #1 then hand torque from there.

 

[GSteg]

For my wheels I like to be sure the lugs are centered and torqued correctly. My life is too important to have improperly mounted wheels.

That doesn't even make sense. An impact gun doesn't influence whether a wheel gets mounted/centered correctly. That's up to the person doing the job. Using a breaker bar or a 4-way to tighten lug nut is no more accurate than using an impact gun, although no one is advocating the use of an impact to properly torque lug nuts/bolts. Give a 1/4" ratchet to an inexperienced guy and I'm sure he'll find a way to strip those bolts.

For lug removal, I always use an impact gun. Why? Because it's faster and easier. I used to use a breaker bar before my impact days, but you can't get me to go back! For installation, I use the impact to snug up the nuts, and then do the final torquing with a torque wrench.

 

[Kracin]

Technology replacing skill... I just set the power setting on my M18 impact wrench to #1 then hand torque from there.

perfect example of using the tool the way it's meant to be used. low torque setting to get the nuts down on the wheel, then torqueing with the right tool after.

although not everybody will need a high power cordless impact. it can be the defining moment when you throw it in a toolbag and head to the junk yard for some impromptu parts scavenging

That doesn't even make sense. An impact gun doesn't influence whether a wheel gets mounted/centered correctly. That's up to the person doing the job. Using a breaker bar or a 4-way to tighten lug nut is no more accurate than using an impact gun, although no one is advocating the use of an impact to properly torque lug nuts/bolts. Give a 1/4" ratchet to an inexperienced guy and I'm sure he'll find a way to strip those bolts.

For lug removal, I always use an impact gun. Why? Because it's faster and easier. I used to use a breaker bar before my impact days, but you can't get me to go back! For installation, I use the impact to snug up the nuts, and then do the final torquing with a torque wrench.

truth in this^

if somebody is destroying your wheels and threads with an impact, it's because they were being lazy or are inexperienced, and if they didn't bother to use a torque stick on a matching impact for the rating, then i doubt they would have bothered to use a torque wrench over their breaker bar for tightening either which would result in the same thing.

same with crossthreading too, if somebody is cross-threading things, they are going to do it with or without an impact. anybody smart has learned to start things by hand at least a few turns before throwing a tool on it. wrench, socket, or impact.

although i was confused RedMed, about how somebody can bend wheels with an impact wrench? what happened with those?

 

[SK-Mike]

Get the dewalt 20v with the 400ft /lb rating with the friction ring bare tool if possible. I personally own it and it will rip lug nuts off of my cummins (8 lug ) like a champ.. you will not be disappointed with it for your needs. On a side note , I had to buy mine in a kit to get the friction ring model with the 400 rating. Dont know if I was looking in the wrong places or what. I could only find bare tool in the detent pin version with the 400 rating.

I'm new to impacts, never owned one of my own, have a question. What is this friction ring model? I have seen it listed on Amazon, but what I'm asking is what makes it different or sets it apart from the other non friction ring model? Thanks.

 

[chris142]

For $400 for the electric gun. He can buy a 20something gallon compressor earthquake gun from hf.

 

[Kracin]

For $400 for the electric gun. He can buy a 20something gallon compressor earthquake gun from hf.

150 can buy a 33gal craftsman
200 can buy a nitrocat 1200k
and 50 more for a hosereel and fittings (flexzilla 3/8ths)

....




but then you gotta remember, not everybody has the space or capacity to use a compressor and tools. for some people who might live in an apartment, or have a super tiny garage or a carport, having something you can walk out with and bring back in and store in little to no space is more important than having a big compressor and air tools.

 

[blackedout12v]

I'm new to impacts, never owned one of my own, have a question. What is this friction ring model? I have seen it listed on Amazon, but what I'm asking is what makes it different or sets it apart from the other non friction ring model? Thanks.

your best bet is to google it and that will give you the best understanding of the two, and pictures of both. In short most DIY guys will prefer the friction ring for ease of socket changes.

 

[blackedout12v]

For $400 for the electric gun. He can buy a 20something gallon compressor earthquake gun from hf.

$400.. huh ??? The OP said in his very first post he has 20v dewalt tools already. Tool only version is around 175, kit with two 4ah batteries ,impact and charger $299. To each his own,but I would def buy the tool only and have a nice impact that can be used in the garage, portable and plenty powerful.

 

[RedneckWelder]

I'm new to impacts, never owned one of my own, have a question. What is this friction ring model? I have seen it listed on Amazon, but what I'm asking is what makes it different or sets it apart from the other non friction ring model? Thanks.

Friction ring/hog ring uses a small metal ring on the anvil (square drive piece) to provide friction on the socket to keep it on the anvil. They generally are pretty good for socket retention when in good shape...your socket may come off occasionally but for the most part it will stay on. A worn retainer, however, will let the socket slip off easily, and should be replaced.

The other style is a push pin retainer on the anvil. The sockets have a hole on the side near the base, and you have to insert an object, like a pocket screwdriver, to depress the pin to remove the socket. This is great for socket retention but is a pain if you change sockets frequently. If you are working at heights doing assembly work, you know the kind of heights where a dropped socket can injure or kill somebody, then the pin retention is invaluable.

Some larger drive ratchets also have pin retention, which is nice when you are putting a huge amount of torque on them and don't want to take the chance of the socket slipping off.

 

[bubinga]

that was impressive

looks like a pretty nice impact.
That should work on the struts cowboy was wanting an impact for.