1/2” or 3/4” for welding/fab table?
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matt_i
Well-known member
A big square wouldn't look out of place in the center of a shop. But if placed on a wall it takes some loonnng arms to reach all the way back. However you can always place your welders on top of the bench.
Id also go 3/4" if your budget can handle it. At a certain point you have to have some rigging plan to handle it as well...48" sq x 0.5 = 326 lbs, 60" sq x 0.75 = 764 lbs.
Id also go 3/4" if your budget can handle it. At a certain point you have to have some rigging plan to handle it as well...48" sq x 0.5 = 326 lbs, 60" sq x 0.75 = 764 lbs.
dr_clyde
Well-known member
3/4” is a nice thickness. My first bench that I built was 3/4, worked pretty great for a long time.
1/2” can and will bend under its own weight. If that matters to you or not, I don’t know. It would to me.
Your bench doesn’t make you good or bad. It just makes it easier or harder to good work.
1/2” can and will bend under its own weight. If that matters to you or not, I don’t know. It would to me.
Your bench doesn’t make you good or bad. It just makes it easier or harder to good work.
sberry
Banned
In a modest shop I can deal with 1/2 but dimensions are more critical as is some overhang for clamping. I like 42 inches by 60 or 72. 60 if there is a cutting bucket on the end. 36 wide isn't enough, 48 is ok but 42 is about perfect due to being able to reach across this. No more than 48 for general work. Mine are scrap, the material is junk but the dimensions about perfect.
I like 2 rather than 1 big, a smaller one with a vise is ok, big enough to set a few tools on.
I like 2 rather than 1 big, a smaller one with a vise is ok, big enough to set a few tools on.
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I can get a 3/4” plate that measures 48”x118” for $665. He also has a 48”x98” piece for $550. So one big 4x8 table, or if I got the slightly larger table, I could make two 48”x59” tables or a 48”x72”, with enough left over for another 48”x46”. Moving it won’t be an issue, I have a forklift for that. It won’t be up against a wall, I have enough room to keep it unhindered on all sides.
He also has 1” plate 48”x96” for $720. Or a 96”x144” plate for $2000. I might be able to get him to cut down a piece to size. Is there really any reason to go 1” over 3/4” though? At what point is it overkill? I like doing things right the first time, but is this really worth it?
He also has 1” plate 48”x96” for $720. Or a 96”x144” plate for $2000. I might be able to get him to cut down a piece to size. Is there really any reason to go 1” over 3/4” though? At what point is it overkill? I like doing things right the first time, but is this really worth it?
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sqznby
Well-known member
If you can go 1"do it. 4 x 6 is a nice size but what is it going to be used for?
I love a thick top but, what's also very important is the base the top sits on.
I love a thick top but, what's also very important is the base the top sits on.
dr_clyde
Well-known member
Thickness adds mass and stability.
It really depends on the work you plan to do with it. Are you just wanting a metal surface to work on or are you using the table as a reference surface to fixture, clamp flat, bend or hold really heavy weldments?
Most home shops can get away with 1/2 or 3/4 no problem. If you’re building chassis or making machine frames or running a side welding shop I’d look at a bigger thicker table.
My main plate table is 1-1/4” thick, and is sufficient for most general fab work.
My platen table is 2” thick cast iron in the narrowest places. It’s way better for big frames and stuff that is really heavy or needs heavy restraints or fixtures. .
It really depends on the work you plan to do with it. Are you just wanting a metal surface to work on or are you using the table as a reference surface to fixture, clamp flat, bend or hold really heavy weldments?
Most home shops can get away with 1/2 or 3/4 no problem. If you’re building chassis or making machine frames or running a side welding shop I’d look at a bigger thicker table.
My main plate table is 1-1/4” thick, and is sufficient for most general fab work.
My platen table is 2” thick cast iron in the narrowest places. It’s way better for big frames and stuff that is really heavy or needs heavy restraints or fixtures. .
sberry
Banned
Mine is 1/4 and it works. Only reason I do t care all that much for ultrathick is it uses up some headroom and adjustments on common clamps, really not a big deal. A professional job shop is different but in maintenance and general 95% of it is simple one piece to another.
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rustyshakelford
Well-known member
I’ve had the thick tables and now they are pretty much storage. I have a 50x100” fixture table and it’s only 1/4” thick top. That said, it’s still 1600-1700 lbs thanks for the structure under the table ensuring it stays flat and true.
I bought mine thru www.texasmetalworks.com also got one of their smaller tables for $450 I think
Brett
I bought mine thru www.texasmetalworks.com also got one of their smaller tables for $450 I think
Brett
Those prices seem good compared to here in CA...about half actually.
These are both 1/2” and have worked great for year(s)...
You guys and your thicker is better mentality drive me nuts! A properly designed and built table with a 1/2 inch top will do for 99 % of us. I built a table 17 years ago for my business and it is still flat enough to make me a living. The majority of people on here won’t ever need anything thicker, flatter or more precise.
Monza Harry
Well-known member
Due to runaway "Project Creep" I was asking one of our shops suppliers about a piece for my tables top, and I asked about 1" his response was "it will move like crazy, ours is 3" and flexes a lot" I'm going to be under 200 Amps their welder is a 1000 A I think, they weld and machine weldments for the machine builders, so the size of your work and projected growth should be considered. Dr.Clyde and sberry both bring up significant points, about sagging [span dependant] and the added clamp sizing. Read the input and use your best judgement from there as to where you are and where want to get to, and then consider where you think you can actually get to. I'm building a 3' x 4' @ 1" too small for many projects and way too big for my space, I'm calling that compromise,
"it's my fantasy I'll have it any way I want!" LOL! Harry
"it's my fantasy I'll have it any way I want!" LOL! Harry
dr_clyde
Well-known member
The key here is properly designed. You want the base to be doing the work. Not the top.
My portable bench is small and only 1/4" thick. I'd rather have the space for a larger table and would like to have it be 3/4". For me, I think it would be pretty much I destructible for what I do.
I'd consider buying the 4x8 piece, lopping off two feet. I'd use that to build some press plates or other fab fixtures.
I'd consider buying the 4x8 piece, lopping off two feet. I'd use that to build some press plates or other fab fixtures.
BarryWells
Well-known member
Tables are all about the frame. 1/2" is fine. Don't weld the top. Bolt it( meaning C channel frame). Then you can shim if/where needed
bob_s2
Well-known member
I had a 2foot by 3 foot piece of 1/4" steel for probably a decade, and it served me well. I'd pull it out and set in on two plastic craftsman folding horses, and weld away. Of course much of my stuff was small at the time. Now, I have a 1/2" thick table, with the original 1/4" on top of it. Why? Because my plasma table likes to feed on 1/2" and when needed, I end up grabbing the 1/2" to meat a deadline. So now I have to go with something I'm not going to grab in a time of need. And this time I'm welding it down so I don't steal it from me.
Hope this helps!
--Bob
Hope this helps!
--Bob
I read through your welding table build. What a beautiful, well thought out table. I had some ideas on building a substantial base for mine but I’ve gleaned a few ideas from your build. I think for what I’m doing, a 3/4” top with a good base will be more than sufficient. To go 4’x8’ or 4’x6’ is the next decision that I need to decide on.
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I’m pretty sure I’ve decided to go with a 3/4” top. I think I’m going to do a 4’x6’ or maybe 42” x 6’. I have been bouncing back and forth between the sizes but the price I got on 3/4” wasn’t much worse than the 1/2” at some places.
xhooligan_skeeterx
Member
I made mine with a 1/2 plate and a solid base, then added 4 locking swivel casters to the legs. Mine gets a lot of use and has been great for me.
Is what you're doing today getting you closer to where you want to be tomorrow?!
Is what you're doing today getting you closer to where you want to be tomorrow?!
Marctrees
Well-known member
I've done alot of fab / welding work on a heavy wood framed 3/4 ply topped table, overlaid w 1/2 Hardyboard sheet from 4x8.
It never caused me a problem that it was non conductive.
Maybe sometimes inconvenient, but overall OK for me... always a way to ground clamp.
Cheap.
Nice and White... excellent for Sharpie marker pattern layouts.
I just scrape off nuggets, rather than having to grind them.
Flip over or replace as needed.
Works for me as serious hobbyist anyway.
Marc
It never caused me a problem that it was non conductive.
Maybe sometimes inconvenient, but overall OK for me... always a way to ground clamp.
Cheap.
Nice and White... excellent for Sharpie marker pattern layouts.
I just scrape off nuggets, rather than having to grind them.
Flip over or replace as needed.
Works for me as serious hobbyist anyway.
Marc
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justgurn
Active member
I do a good deal of welding on my hardboard tables. I have two that are 30" x 96" and usually have them pushed together. Every project (welding, painting, staining, overhauling machinery) leaves a mark, but I like that. Definitely not cool enough for the GJ crowd though.
I used this table I made with 1” MDF for welding for several years until I could afford to buy a sheet of steel and build another table.
I use it for sheet metal work now.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Marctrees
Well-known member
Keep in mind the Hardyboard is kinda like the old shower lining ? Durock ? , meaning non flammable made of concrete like substance.
Marc
Marc
JPinSTL
Well-known member
4x6 with a sturdy frame, 4in over hang for clamping, and a couple receiver tubes at the corners for a vise mount etc. Thickness is up to how cheap you can find a drop for.
I made A LOT of side money using a well supported piece of 1/4 in plate on some metal saw horses. Just depends on what you are doing. I then scored some 2in tubing free and welded up a table frame. That lasted for years and I eventually replaced the top with a $150 4x6 5/8 plate drop.
If you are a weekend warrior a 1/4 plate top is more than adequate. Also easier to shim/shrink it to reasonably flat. Easy to move around without equipment, etc.
If you are a Pro then go for at least 3/4in thick if this is just a workbench sized table. That way you have enough meat to get it blanchard ground flat.
Building race car chassis? Then as thick as you can afford.
I made A LOT of side money using a well supported piece of 1/4 in plate on some metal saw horses. Just depends on what you are doing. I then scored some 2in tubing free and welded up a table frame. That lasted for years and I eventually replaced the top with a $150 4x6 5/8 plate drop.
If you are a weekend warrior a 1/4 plate top is more than adequate. Also easier to shim/shrink it to reasonably flat. Easy to move around without equipment, etc.
If you are a Pro then go for at least 3/4in thick if this is just a workbench sized table. That way you have enough meat to get it blanchard ground flat.
Building race car chassis? Then as thick as you can afford.
As others have said, the supporting frame underneath is where you need the beef.
This is my baby, a 4200x2400x20mm thick top. Entire underside is 100x100x4mm rhs and 5mm legs, and 50x50x4 braces on the legs and underneath. It’s a big heavy sumbitch but I’ve had 3.5 tonne on that table and by the time I shim the legs on a pretty crappy concrete floor, the laser level tells me it’s within +/- 0.5mm. I do a lot of balustrade work so having a big table for layouts is perfect, especially when the top is perfectly square (having a hypertherm 400xd plate cutter next door is a bonus).
For at home, 1/2 inch would be fine, just build a beefy subframe and if you can manage to bolt it down then your laughing. Mine had a few baby stitch welds on the underside, but the weight of the plate really is what stops it from moving
This is my baby, a 4200x2400x20mm thick top. Entire underside is 100x100x4mm rhs and 5mm legs, and 50x50x4 braces on the legs and underneath. It’s a big heavy sumbitch but I’ve had 3.5 tonne on that table and by the time I shim the legs on a pretty crappy concrete floor, the laser level tells me it’s within +/- 0.5mm. I do a lot of balustrade work so having a big table for layouts is perfect, especially when the top is perfectly square (having a hypertherm 400xd plate cutter next door is a bonus).
For at home, 1/2 inch would be fine, just build a beefy subframe and if you can manage to bolt it down then your laughing. Mine had a few baby stitch welds on the underside, but the weight of the plate really is what stops it from moving
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sberry
Banned
I think the Andy guy at Miller builds car chassis on his 2 post.