1/2 or 3/4 steel workbench/welding table???

[Streetglide11]

Need advice on thickness for my welding table/ workbench 1/2 or 3/4 steel. It will have a vise on one end and storage under. I'm not sure if 3/4 will be over kill or not. I hate pulling on something in a vise and the bench moves. 1/2 weights 650lbs and 3/4 is 980lbs. Not worried about be able to move it I have equipment for that and the price isn't that much of a issue. I will be using it for everything beating, banging, welding, throwing transmission on it, all automotive I don't work on big equipment. Any advice or input will be appreciated.

 

[LXCam]

Mine is 1/2" and i got noooo complaints.


**** I just realized what your actual point was, the dead weight factor. Well maybe I should put my table into perspective. The top is 3' x 7'. The legs are 5" x 5" x 3/8" tubing. The horizontals for both the top and the shelf are made out of 4" x 3" x 1/4" tubing. The top has 3" of overhang at the corners and 4" at the horizontal and I've got a Wilton 600N bolted down on one corner. Needless to say I haven't shifted my table yet pulling on something

 

[matt_i]

Need to know the size of it

But, no matter which one you choose, I'd place a "ladder frame" underneath it. Could be box tube steel or channel or I-beams if you are feeling froggy.

I would place the legs on leveling mounts so you can always get it level and evade rock on any concrete surface.

On my bench (5/8" thick with 4" channel ladder frame) I had the 48" x 96" plate sheared to 40" wide x 96" long and then welded the 4x4x1/4" legs to 8" square plates sawn from the drop. Then bolted that plate to the ladder frame. A little extra work but it could be broken down for moving. But then I got some forklifts and it will probably never come apart again I wanted to use flat-head socket screws to attach the top to the base but I have yet to come up with a countersinking process which could handle the large manly screws I wanted to use, I think they were 1/2"-13.

Surprisingly...even on a very heavy bench (at work is a 2" thick-top model @ 6' x 10') the hammer will tell you the most solid spot is directly over one of the legs....

One more point....the 1/2" might be sheared if its a smaller size than off-the-shelf. The 3/4" will probably have to be flame-cut. The see-saw is less distortion with the flame cutting but it will be a rougher edge, but nothing an hour and a couple of flap wheels can't handle. I have seen a plate-saw but that was at a big steel yard and I suspect it came with a premium price.

 

[LXCam]

Matt, because my top is stainless I had no choice but go for a bolted connection. So I literally drug my drill press over and set it up so I could counter sink some 1/2 bolts. Even with all the weight and horse power it was a major task. I would suggest using a magdrill. My next goal is to one day get some lay out holes dialed in. I'll make a iron base that clamps to the table for the magdrill to grab onto for that chore

 

[f150skidoo]

If you can swing the extra cost you won't regret having a thicker plate, mainly because the thicker plate will be flatter. My 3'x5' welding table has a 1.25" plate top that's really flat so it makes fabricating a breeze when you have to build something that must be square and true.

 

[lis2323]

JMHO but I’d go with the 3/4” if cost isn’t a concern. The weld/blacksmith table I built utilizes a 3” thick steel top.

 

[Streetglide11]

I think I'm going to leave it 4x8 and just round the corners I've got plenty of room in the shop, I'm going to make the frame from 4x4 box with a ladder frame.

 

[DpSyChO]

Later down the road you wont regret going thicker but may have second thoughts by going thinner. If the added cost is not an issue, my vote is go with 3/4"

If you have not thought of it, I would suggest to rent, borrow, or steal a mag drill if you do not have one to lay out a grid to drill and tap. My top on the roll around table is 3/4" thick that is roughly 3-1/2' sq. I laid out a 6"x6" grid, drilled and tapped 1/2-13 holes and put in set screws to keep out weld splatter. It has come in handy several times by making a jig to hold something and bolt down, just take out the set screws and bolt the jig down. Some people just tack weld the jig to the table then cut off afterwards which is fine but personally I like the bolt on option. In my case I've had times where I saw that smaller grid could have been used since my jig feet could have been shorter in order to be closer to the jig upright, maybe used a 4" or 5" grid but I was originally afraid of the plate looking like swiss cheese. With that said, I have 1/2" plate taking up space that is 30" X 60" that I may make another table out of. If I do I'll probably do 6" grid on it also .

 

[DpSyChO]

JMHO but I’d go with the 3/4” if cost isn’t a concern. The weld/blacksmith table I built utilizes a 3” thick steel top.

That sir is a handsome looking table.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Does that require 16 inches of concrete to support that table? Holy **** that's a nice table.

 

[lis2323]

DpSyCho and turbowoodworker: Thank you!

 

[tarbellb]

Somebody brought a gun to a knife fight....

Wow, I suspect it feels tied to the earth's core. Nice.


Go 3/4" if cost isnt a issue. Also, consider dog holes / acorn style, its a beautiful thing to clamp anywhere needed.

JMHO but I’d go with the 3/4” if cost isn’t a concern. The weld/blacksmith table I built utilizes a 3” thick steel top.

 

[lis2323]

Later down the road you wont regret going thicker but may have second thoughts by going thinner. If the added cost is not an issue, my vote is go with 3/4"

If you have not thought of it, I would suggest to rent, borrow, or steal a mag drill if you do not have one to lay out a grid to drill and tap. My top on the roll around table is 3/4" thick that is roughly 3-1/2' sq. I laid out a 6"x6" grid, drilled and tapped 1/2-13 holes and put in set screws to keep out weld splatter. It has come in handy several times by making a jig to hold something and bolt down, just take out the set screws and bolt the jig down. Some people just tack weld the jig to the table then cut off afterwards which is fine but personally I like the bolt on option. In my case I've had times where I saw that smaller grid could have been used since my jig feet could have been shorter in order to be closer to the jig upright, maybe used a 4" or 5" grid but I was originally afraid of the plate looking like swiss cheese. With that said, I have 1/2" plate taking up space that is 30" X 60" that I may make another table out of. If I do I'll probably do 6" grid on it also .

^^^plus 1 for drilling holes^^^

I drilled 5/8" holes in my 3/8" thick plate for my modified Stronghand type clamps.

 

[ER70S-2]

JMHO but I’d go with the 3/4” if cost isn’t a concern. The weld/blacksmith table I built utilizes a 3” thick steel top.

]

If I had that, it would be all rusty from drool.

 

[DpSyChO]

^^^plus 1 for drilling holes^^^

I drilled 5/8" holes in my 3/8" thick plate for my modified Stronghand type clamps.

You dont realize how handy it is to clamp something down in the middle of a table such as in this pic until you have the ability to do so.
I already had a couple t-slot clamp sets for the mill partly why I went with drilling/tapping. Using the stronghand type clamps where you just need the drilled hole would be a lot easier on a large table with small grid pattern.
Here is the style clamps I use with the 1/2-13 tapped holes.

I've also cut 2" wide pcs of different sizes of channel iron for holding flat stock that is laying flat or angle iron as in the pic above. Drilled a hole in the center and used as the clamp, the channel iron is flipped to where one leg is on the table and the other is on the stock I'm welding.

 

[BD1]

Definiley at least 3/4'', 1'' would be better. Mine is 1 1/8'' thick but only 4'x4'.
If you want some ideas , here's the Weldingweb site post for tables.

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?377311-Welding-table-picture-thread

 

[sberry]

I wonder how I ever made it without that? I would rather have 1/2. Its plenty heavy and so much closer to common clamps, can take one off the edges and use it on pieces without having to move them so far. The 2 inch thing is pretty but takes up a lot of the 11R clamps.
If this is a general bench I don't want holes, don't have them and made it a long ways without. Spill anything on it, dust and dirt thru them all and I don't miss them. I worked in a nuke plant fab shop, they7 actually had simple plates sitting on saw horses with some planks underneath for shelves.
There are places and occasions all this stuff may be useful but for the avg guy in an avg shop simply more junk and more cost.
I wouldn't mind building a new top someday but it wont make me anymore money than the 1/4 I have now. I really don't hammer on it with 12 or 16# hammers anyway. I do clamp to the edges and ends a lot. I don't miss it not being perfectly flat.
I have worked in dozens of shops and never miss that stuff and have enough to do accumulating general purpose clamps widely used instead of expensive specialty ones to build a couple pieces I could make do in another minute some other way.

 

[sberry]

Dr Psch,,, just out of curiosity. Where are the welds going in the pic? The frame looks beautiful but here would have been cut square and had the miters nipped with a plasma with a big ole gap that allowed for a penetrated weld that came out flush. The corners would have been filled from the outside most likely unless there was a specific compelling reason to do it another way.

 

[zmotorsports]

My welding table is portable and constructed from 2"x.187" wall square tubing with a .5" top measuring 32"x60" and is quite heavy. I have it on casters and when the casters are locked I can tug and pull around on it without the table moving. Granted I do have a lot of "C" clamps hung on it adding weight but it is rock solid. Thicker would be better but with my 1/2" plate I have never had an issue and with 2" supports welded across underneath it the top hasn't bowed, drooped or deformed in the 15+ years I have worked on it.

 

[Lelandwelds]

I wonder how I ever made it without that? I would rather have 1/2. Its plenty heavy and so much closer to common clamps, can take one off the edges and use it on pieces without having to move them so far. The 2 inch thing is pretty but takes up a lot of the 11R clamps.
If this is a general bench I don't want holes, don't have them and made it a long ways without. Spill anything on it, dust and dirt thru them all and I don't miss them. I worked in a nuke plant fab shop, they7 actually had simple plates sitting on saw horses with some planks underneath for shelves.
There are places and occasions all this stuff may be useful but for the avg guy in an avg shop simply more junk and more cost.
I wouldn't mind building a new top someday but it wont make me anymore money than the 1/4 I have now. I really don't hammer on it with 12 or 16# hammers anyway. I do clamp to the edges and ends a lot. I don't miss it not being perfectly flat.
I have worked in dozens of shops and never miss that **** and have enough to do accumulating general purpose clamps widely used instead of expensive specialty ones to build a couple pieces I could make do in another minute some other way.

I have welded in only one shop with cast platens. The top was 6" thick originally and had square holes about 4" apart over the entire top. The tooling was expensive, you never have enough clamps, and truthfully a 1/4 " top would have worked fine. We had a bridge crane and a huge rubber tired forklift so moving any of them wasn't an issue. I just wish he had put the money into ironworker dies.

The tables I built for my use were 1/4" tops with three legs. I built 4ea measuring 2' X 4' and each was the same height. The 1/2" and 3/4" tables were almost never used because their heights matched nothing in the shop. (They were to have their heights fixed "when we slow down". Never happened.)

Either thickness is fine. The flatness and capacity comes from the apron or skirt frame you weld on the underside anyway. If you just need excessive weight, mount removable concrete plumb bobs to the underside. 150# to the cu ft.

 

[lis2323]

I have 4 swivel casters on my 4'x8' table which allows me to spin it around in its own length if necessary.



I recently modified floor locks (to be adjustable for levelling) and added them to the legs. When engaged the only way the table will move would be a nudge from the forklift.





Edit. Forgot to mention. This table has a 3/8" top (tweaked to be flat) and works fine for me.

 

[zmotorsports]

JMHO but I’d go with the 3/4” if cost isn’t a concern. The weld/blacksmith table I built utilizes a 3” thick steel top.

I have 4 swivel casters on my 4'x8' table which allows me to spin it around in its own length if necessary.



I recently modified floor locks (to be adjustable for levelling) and added them to the legs. When engaged the only way the table will move would be a nudge from the forklift.

DAMN dude!!! Those are a couple of bitchin' welding tables.

 

[NeuseRvrRat]

3/8" has worked fine for me. Top is only 4' square, though.

 

[jhn9840]

NeuseRvrRat, nice table. Really like your storage/tool cabinet underneath. Looks like a good size for storing weldlng supplies.

jhn9840
John

 

[sberry]

That is one of the best I have seen of its type. It should go in a file of best benches. There is another couple on here quite similar that is in that same class. Got the stuff I like, smooth top, square edges, modest thickness and edge relief for working with common clamps. I could build a couple other features in a stationary bench but some concessions have to be made.
That's how I like the shelf to toss the grinder.

 

[sberry]

Whoops, the one on top of post 22 may be my new fave.

 

[NeuseRvrRat]

NeuseRvrRat, nice table. Really like your storage/tool cabinet underneath. Looks like a good size for storing weldlng supplies.

jhn9840
John

Thanks! It works out pretty good. The cabinet on the left holds a couple hoods and my other welding PPE. The deep drawers hold abrasive discs and wire wheels. The shallow drawers hold my die grinders and carbide burrs, rolocs, stones, etc.

Cabinet is made by Adrian Steel. It came out of the back of a work van. I think I gave $40 or $50 for it off craigslist.

 

[tarmy]

1/2 here...

Here are some details and ideas...

 

[Lelandwelds]

1/2 here...

Here are some details and ideas...
[

I haven't seen one like this before! I don't see any T slot tooling. How do you use it? ( I often used my tables more like sawhorses, for example.) Do you clamp only with F clamps?

 

[tarmy]

I haven't seen one like this before! I don't see any T slot tooling. How do you use it? ( I often used my tables more like sawhorses, for example.) Do you clamp only with F clamps?

Either that or magnates...or tack it to the table...grind off. I made two extra top pieces in case I need to change them out. I have found that the clamps...good ones... hold things just fine...

 

[joe49]

As kind of a collector of steel tables I have 7, 8 if I count the back of my work truck. My .02 is !/2 is fine on small tables that don't need to stay flat. 3/4 or better yet 1 for large tables you will tack things to. If you will rarely ever move the table use shims to level it. If you will move it often 3 adjustable legs , 4 adjustable if it is a 2nd table and you need to match up to your first table for longer projects. Casters only if you regularly move long distances or multiple times a day. A bottom shelf which is also for moving the table with a floor jack around the shop if it doesn't move often. I don't fill my tables with holes for the I may need them at sometime and then have to deal with things falling threw or spills running threw. I do add a few holes a few inches in from the edge to use my fabricated hammer cramps these are woodwork stile hold downs. As far as not welding on your table and clamping things out in the center of the table a couple of simple bridges are faster to build, then drilling all those holes, and will allow you to clamp anywhere on the table not just where you put holes. Instead of drilling holes build shelving to keep the clutter off your bench. I can attest to the clutter.

 

[kazlx]

I’d go 3/4 if cost really isn’t a concern. You’ll never regret going thicker. Honestly, either way just increase the friction between the table and the concrete and it won’t go anywhere. Ie use rubberized machine mounts as feet instead of straight metal to concrete and it won’t move. You can nice ones from McMaster. I definitely wouldn’t worry about casters if I had a way to move it easily.

 

[BigMike782]

I just built this to replace a 24 x 36 1/4" top table,
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?729081-Welding-table
As already said, the thicker the better.

 

[Krayton]

Im currently on the same boat. I was thinking about something like this guys:

 

[drivesitfar]

I have 4 swivel casters on my 4'x8' table which allows me to spin it around in its own length if necessary.



I recently modified floor locks (to be adjustable for levelling) and added them to the legs. When engaged the only way the table will move would be a nudge from the forklift.





Edit. Forgot to mention. This table has a 3/8" top (tweaked to be flat) and works fine for me.

LIS: i love your tables and GEESH how much does the one with the 3 inch thick top weigh? VERY NICE SHOP SIR!!

I'm not sure you even want to try to put the huge one on wheels, but here's another option i'm looking at when i build mine with a little hydraulic jack.

ALL: i'd probably go with the thicker top if i could afford it or had the material. i was in the process of building 3 welding tables a couple years ago and my welder got sick and then bought a new bike so his time is really limited so i've put the project on hold cause i have other things to do.

here's a link to that thread if you'd like to build a smallish welding table.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280441&highlight=welding+table

the pictures i posted were on the front page of GJ for a month or two a few years ago and i liked the idea. i'd probably build in some cabinets and make a trailer hitch type mount for the vises and grinders, but overall the size it about right for me.

 

[dr_clyde]

The only downsides to going thicker are weight and cost. If those aren't a problem then I'd go as thick as you can afford to handle.

Mine is 1-1/4" thick and if I could have, I'd have gone with 1-1/2".

If all you want is a workbench that's grounded to weld on, it doesn't matter. Sheet metal over OSB on sawhorses will work. If you use your table as a reference surface, then it starts to matter more. Things like flatness, stability and weight work to your advantage, and the thicker your plate, the easier those things are to attain and keep.

 

[drivesitfar]

Dr.C: nicely done and WELL SAID!!
just curious was it the cost of the 1.5 vs. 1.25 or the weight that kept you from making your AWESOME BENCH? did you already post a picture of it on here cause i don't have this thread memorized yet and I remember seeing your thread a few years ago when you made it? if you haven't posted a picture (or 2 or 3...) please do if you have time.

thanks

ALL: I agree 100% with all that Dr. C posted and wish i had the funds and the space to build one of those monster benches.

i did own a 1300 pound 3x5 SURFACE PLATE I should have kept, but i didn't have the space for it to sit other than against a wall, but after i sold it i should have just moved it on a pallet jack to the middle when i needed to use it and than back against the wall when it sat waiting for the next job. if I recall correctly it had a 2 inch thick top with the cast iron webbing under it to keep it perfectly flat.

 

[dr_clyde]

My decision to go with 1-1/4" plate vs 1-1/2" was mostly budget driven. I honestly don't remember the price difference. I had sold my old table and used the money from the sale to finance the new build. I think my table was all in for about $2500 if you don't figure any labor.

I have a 5k capacity forklift, so I wasn't worried about weight. Although how I lift the table has a lot to do with whether I can pick it or not. From the side, no problem. I'm well within my forklift's capacity. However, if I attempt a lift from the end, the weight is so far away from the mast that it won't lift it. So I really don't need it heavier. At that point, it's just bragging rights.

My signature has a link to the build thread for those interested.

 

[Bob P1]

1/2 should be fine for light duty up to medium duty stuff. Gives you enough thickness to drill & tap into if needed.