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1/2" wood screw with fat head?

Moosefire

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I'm looking to attach 1/2 inch plywood with a screw through 1/8" steel angle. Without recessing a "V" into the thin steel to fit a standard screw, what options do I have? I found a Simpson strong tie that has a huge flat head but nothing that's 1/2 inch long. Pic of that below. Any of you have any idea? Should I stick with just a standard Phillip's head screw? It'll end up holding maybe a hundred fifty pounds at best, so doesnt have to be super strong56c9c3721724fda24a6ada907b4f7e32.jpg

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AndyCBR

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Use a self drilling "ply-tek". Pretty common in the commercial industry for securing treated plywood to steel framing for wood backing behind stucco, EP, etc. The wings self bore the wood and prevent tip dulling while drilling the hole in the wood. The wings break off when they hit the steel so the fastener tightens down on the framing.

http://fastening-solutions.itwbuild...teks-3-wtm-wood-to-metal-self-drilling-screws

Hop this helps.
Andy
 

engineer2

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If you are pre-drilling the steel and then driving the screw through, you can use about anything. Cabinet screws would work, but usually 1" is the shortest.

If you want to drill the wood and steel in one shot, self-drilling screws would work, but would be stronger if you were drilling from the wood side and then into the steel.
 
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Moosefire

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Thanks guys, I'll look into those mentioned. To answer some of the questions, I will be predrilling the metal beforehand, and the screw does NOT have to be flush with the surface.

Thanks as always guys!

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seber

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Judging from the answers I think you need to clarify. Are you attatching plywood to steel or steel to plywood? Totally different types of screw depending on what part holds the thread.
 

rlitman

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Judging from the answers I think you need to clarify. Are you attatching plywood to steel or steel to plywood? Totally different types of screw depending on what part holds the thread.

That's what I'm wondering too. Which end does the head touch, and which are the threads holding in?
 

manwithtools

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Moosefire

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Theres a hole in the metal to clear whichever screws I end up getting, the head will be on the metal, the screw teeth will be in the plywood

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rlitman

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Theres a hole in the metal to clear whichever screws I end up getting, the head will be on the metal, the screw teeth will be in the plywood.

Gotcha. So why on earth do you want an enlarged head? With the metal holding the head, and it's screwed into wood, you don't need a washer or a large head.

Just use an ordinary pan head screw. Or do it right, buy a countersink, countersink the hole and use a flat head screw. Or, if you prefer the look, buy a finishing washer and use a flat head screw in that.

FYI, the strongest option will be the countersunk flat head.

edit: strike that. The strongest option would be a countersunk flat head euro screw. These eliminate the point, and require a precisely pre-drilled hole:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY32ZMG/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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mobiledynamics

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Is the angle iron the bracket and the 1/2 ply is the top for a shelf ?
If so, I suppose any 1/2 long you find may suffice....probably tek screw will be closest in usable diameter and short depth
 

rlitman

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A truss head screw like manwithtools posted is what I would usually use. They come in 5/8" for securing drawer slides to 3/4" ply. The one he linked is 1/2" which should work for your application. If you want to get them locally and have a Rockler nearby, they have it as well.

https://www.rockler.com/drawer-slide-mounting-screws-truss-head-phillips

And if you like Rockler (and I do), I'd suggest these:
https://www.rockler.com/flat-head-pozi-drive-euro-screws

Again, I suggest countersinking.
 
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