1/2in Sockets

[krzyimprt]

I'm starting to expand my socket collection into 1/2in drive and ohh boy is it overwhelming and pricey. I don't want to be stuck with a bunch of sockets that collect dust and takeup space. Should I go chrome or impact? Shallow? Mid? Deep?

Will I have any clearance issues if I went with only impact sockets?

Any advice would be highly appreciated.

 

[mritchie77]

I guess it depends on what you plan on using them for.

I am not a professional, more of a pro-sumer DIY auto guy and here is what I have

1/4" - shallow chrome, deep chrome
3/8" - shallow chrome, deep chrome
1/2" - shallow chrome, deep impact

I only have a 1/2" impact gun, and that's all I've ever needed. You can get impacts in both deep and shallow if you expect any clearance issues.

 

[krzyimprt]

I guess it depends on what you plan on using them for.

I am not a professional, more of a pro-sumer DIY auto guy and here is what I have

1/4" - shallow chrome, deep chrome
3/8" - shallow chrome, deep chrome
1/2" - shallow chrome, deep impact

I only have a 1/2" impact gun, and that's all I've ever needed. You can get impacts in both deep and shallow if you expect any clearance issues.

I recently picked up a 1/2in impact. Do you ever use Chrome sockets on it?

 

[mritchie77]

I recently picked up a 1/2in impact. Do you ever use Chrome sockets on it?

I do not. Some people do, and have no problems. Others try it and break chrome sockets. YMMV

 

[Matt XYZ]

I'm starting to expand my socket collection into 1/2in drive and ohh boy is it overwhelming and pricey. I don't want to be stuck with a bunch of sockets that collect dust and takeup space. Should I go chrome or impact? Shallow? Mid? Deep?

Will I have any clearance issues if I went with only impact sockets?

Any advice would be highly appreciated.

Take a look on eBay for used sockets. I picked up Husky and SK sets for a lot cheaper than even cheap new ones. It was a few years ago but I think it was under $20-25 for each set of SAE and Metric standard and deep. The SKs aren't pretty but work fine.

 

[Tallpilot]

The Williams shallow chrome set can be had for about $100. Deeps are more expensive so you could buy them individually or start with a lug nut socket set if you don't already have one.

If you have an impact then I would suggest one of the Tekton sets. They have a good set of features. Sunex or Capri are a little cheaper but lack things like full stepping.

 

[VolvoRyan]

I'm impact-only for 1/2".... in shallow/semi-deep/deep. But metric only.

Traditionally, "better" brands of impact sockets had thinner walls than "lesser" brands, so there were no clearance issues. I suspect that brands like Tekton have put their impacts on a diet. I should check.

I go no-skips up to 19mm.... and then get picky from 20mm up to 36mm. Buying complete sets of really big sockets is the best way to spend lots of money on a a number of sockets you won't use.

-Ryan

 

[Jeff]

I rarely use 1/2" sockets. That said, I have a regular impact set in SAE and Metric. I couldn't see spending hundreds on something I use maybe 2-3 times a year. I went with Neiko due to price, quality, and reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZB4NYJ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Dave455]

If you have no 1/2” drive, get yourself a set of shallow, chrome to start with.

If you’re not used to using 1/2” drive, you won’t believe how useful they are, or how nice they are to use. Despite the advantages of 3/8 drive in some circumstances, I use my 1/2” drive pretty much every day.

Get a generous overlap of sizes with your 3/8 drive. Even if you’re using a relatively small size, 1/2” drive makes all the difference working on over tightened or corroded bolts.

If you can run to them, get a regular length ratchet, a long ratchet, a breaker bar of at least 2’, and extensions that don’t twist!

Add deep sizes as you need them. I don’t think I’ve ever needed a deep socket above about 7/8”, although I do own a few.

If you have a 1/2” impact wrench, get impact sockets for it. Treat then as a consumable.

If you get chrome sockets, they will last a lifetime if used correctly. I‘m still using good quality sockets bought by my Grandfather in the 1930’s. He said they were expensive at the time, but don’t seem so bad 80 years later..!

Don’t get too hung up about sets without skips. Above about 19mm for example, there are many sizes not used by any standard, so instead of buying those, perhaps buy a couple of bigger sockets that you might use.

Do consider used. The bigger sockets don’t wear like the smaller ones, but cost more new, so can be a great buy used.

Do consider just buying what you need. The big sets from reputable makers are costly, often contain things you won’t need, but omit things you might (such as Torx bits)

Personally, I have sockets up to 32mm, 1 1/4 SAE and 1” Whitworth. I have hex bits up to 19mm and 3/4”, Torx bits up to T60, square sockets up to 1 inch, and I’ve needed ALL of them at some point - thankfully not on the same job..!

 

[boom_bap]

Impact only, shallow and deep. Sunex makes nice sets. I'd agree, I'd only get 1/2 drive from 10-22, then add individuals after that. You're mostly going to use 21 and 22 for wheels, and whatever size for caliper bracket bolts. If you do subframes then maybe go higher before going individual. Toyota uses 12pt 30mm on axles, GM uses 35, 36 6pt, so those will vary depending on your car. If you have pullers, grab a set of SAE shallows up to 1-1/4, or individuals for them. I'd get a set of wrenches up to 1-1/4 for pullers too if you need them and you can use them around your house as well.

Its nice to have a complete set for the normal sizes (10-22) since you can just use one set of sockets if you're doing a brake job for example.

 

[ecotec]

I have chrome deep and shallow as far as the socket trays go.

I have impact deep and shallow up to 38mm (deep) and to 36mm shallow.

 

[redjalopygarage]

I used to work on tractor trailers and auto/light duty. When I brought my tools home I have just impact 1/2 shallow and deep SAE and metric. If you are just working on projects at home you'll notice that the engineers are making fastener that are smaller. To avoid spending money, I would go with just semi-deep. There have been a few articles backing this methodology. On late model cars, trucks and SUVs you're not going to need big sizes as much. A lot of fasteners are becoming torque to yield which makes them one time use although mostly in smaller sizes. Visualize what your work could be and purchase accordingly. Also I would not recommend using chrome on an impact. Two very different metals and the shiny stuff has and will shatter with force.

 

[Rinspeed]

Even though I own a bunch of both a lot of times I use my impact sockets with a ratchet. I agree with Matt that you can find some deals on Ebay if you are patient. The HF impacts are very hard to beat.

 

[threewood]

I have 1/2" chrome set of Proto for suspension and drivetrain where I torque fasteners. I also have a long and regular set of HF impact when I have stubborn and rusted bolts to remove.

 

[Komet]

I would avoid using chrome on an impact; the hammering action may cause them to shatter. Many people get away with using chrome on impact drivers and other light duty impact tools, but if it's something like a mid torque or high torque, it seems risky.

Definitely depends on your application as 1/2" starts reaching up into some big boy sizes that you will rarely see in cars or houses, but are typical for heavy machinery or industrial applications.

I think it makes sense to have your typical smaller sets of chrome shallows (mids could be good here too, given that if you're working in 1/2" chrome, size probably isn't your primary concern) that go up to 1" / 22mm or so with a ratchet and 24"+ breaker bar because all that stuff is fairly affordable. Individual sockets above that size of Taiwan quality are $7-10 or so each, I've found it more economical to simply get my large stuff on an as-needed basis.

I tried to get away with having 1/2" deep impacts only (mine are Husky, got both sets for about $40 each on sale) and ran into length fitment problems when I started doing suspension and underbody automotive work. I picked up some Astro nano (extra shallow) 1/2" impacts and Pittsburgh swivel adapters and that got me the fitment I needed for about $100 both SAE and Metric, not too bad and they came with nice rails. I figured the nanos on an adapter are about the same overall height as dedicated impact swivel sockets but I'm able to piece together a complete set for less than half the cost of getting a similar range of impact swivels, plus the added versatility of being able to use them without the adapter for the tightest possible fitment.

 

[dukefx]

You need to decide for yourself what you (may) need. One thing I will say however. Don't cheap out and use impact on hand tools nor chrome on impact tools! Here's why: the chrome will most likely shatter, especially if it's thin. Impact on hand tools on the other hand is a bit safer but they are designed to absorb shock. If you use them on hand tools the high Molybdenum content will sure that the sockets will deform and stretch out. On top of that impact sockets also have thicker walls which might cause some clearance issues in tight spaces. So buy 2 separate sets.

 

[woody 73]

This is Don Vito Corleone speaking (aka the Godfather of the tool world underworld), you don't come on the GJ asking what you should buy...You buy every socket you can get your hands on Kapeesh.

Next question Grasshopper.

 

[silkman]

I have no use for SAE but I can say this for metric: 27mm and above buy only deep, impact rated 12point sockets. You can buy what you need individually before the task you plan to do (eg axle nut removal). Used are also great if you can find them.

 

[krzyimprt]

You need to decide for yourself what you (may) need. One thing I will say however. Don't cheap out and use impact on hand tools nor chrome on impact tools! Here's why: the chrome will most likely shatter, especially if it's thin. Impact on hand tools on the other hand is a bit safer but they are designed to absorb shock. If you use them on hand tools the high Molybdenum content will sure that the sockets will deform and stretch out. On top of that impact sockets also have thicker walls which might cause some clearance issues in tight spaces. So buy 2 separate sets.

Really? I was told to use impact sockets with a breaker bar due to thicker walls on the sockets and chrome would crack under high torque.

 

[Komet]

Use impact on impact tools, chrome on hand tools. The impact will flex on a slow, heavy torque pull and can break or deform.

Chrome cracks under high torque in an impact because of the quick sharp hits.

 

[cgrutt]

I generally like to use the smallest drive available for task... will grab 1/4 before 3/8 and 3/8 before 1/2. I have alot of sockets but generally will grab the deep chrome unless I need something shorter. Had a nice set of metric Snap on 1/2 deep chrome sockets that I had to reluctantly sell a few years ago when I needed some cash. You know what I really didn't miss them aside from the fact that not having them bothered me. I have a cheap 10-19 impact set as well as filling in sizes I've needed from Harbor Freight etc. That has gotten me through some serious projects. Recently bought an ICON deep chrome set to replace the Snap on set that I sold. Think I've only used one socket from that set one time. I also just recently sourced a used Snap on deep 1/2 metric impact set believe it was 11-22 but I bought 10, 23, 24, 25 and 27 separately. I have a shallow SAE Snap on impact set that runs pretty small to pretty big that I purchased in the 1980s. Can count on one hand the number of times I need that set. I like tools and I like Snap on am glad to have them. Most of the projects I've done have used 3/8 or 1/4 (aside from lug nuts or the props on my boat).

 

[bbrins]

Since you already have a 1/2 impact gun, I'd start with impact sockets, add some ratchets and extensions and swivels. If you find that you are having clearance issues, then start adding chrome. My impact sockets are Sunex, GP, and Gearwrench, I have nothing bad to say about any of them.

I don't lose any sleep if I happen to occasionally use a chrome socket with an impact, but I try not to make a habit of it since it isn't good for the impact gun. I've yet to have an issue using hand tools with impact sockets.

 

[matthew]

On one hand I’d like the euro approach of using mostly 1/4” + 1/2”. But cars aren’t the chunky clunky they used to be, and just basic 1/2” isn’t a bad approach.

I’m just a diy’er. In 1/2” I’ve got SAE chrome shallow and deep, metric shallow chrome, and metric deep impact. Honestly I could do without the SAE. The deep metric impacts are definitely useful. My set goes to 24mm. I don’t know if I’d bother with shallows again - maybe, or maybe just add 27, 30, and 32mm deep singles.

I have this set as shallows - Link. As much as I may not need them, it is very affordable for that price. Add a 21mm single and you’re set.

 

[bbrins]

I work on a wide range of stuff, a lot of it is not cars, no way I could do with just SAE, or just metric. Speaking of clearance, I try to have as wide a range of sizes as possible in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2, often times the same size in 3/8 drive will have a thinner wall than a 1/2 drive socket.

 

[CoogarXR]

The problem I had when I first got my impact was hogging out the square drive on chrome sockets. I never cracked one, but they wouldn't stay on my ratchet anymore; I destroyed the drive side. So yeah, don't run chromes on your impact.

 

[belvedere]

I have this impact set, which is pretty complete: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P7NR16/?tag=atomicindus08-20 I bought mine years ago at a lower price. Still, it's not bad at the current price. I did the math, and it comes out to $3.62/socket.

I also own a shallow chrome set of both SAE and metric, which I bought used. When I need a deep socket, I just use an impact socket.

 

[Rinspeed]

Impact on hand tools on the other hand is a bit safer but they are designed to absorb shock. If you use them on hand tools the high Molybdenum content will sure that the sockets will deform and stretch out.

Not even close.

 

[dukefx]

Not even close.

There are literally people in this very thread stating the same. There are countless scientific articles you can read up on the structure of CrMo steel. We always have newcomers at the company's workshop who stretch out CrMo sockets because they are too lazy to grab a CrV socket after using the air impact driver.

 

[ex-x-fire]

You need them all in chrome and impact, in 12pt and 6pt. All depths too including extra shallow and extra deep. This is GJ after all. Oh, I forgot about swivels too.....

 

[Dakotadadv8]

Nice to have 1/2 drive chrome and impact sae and metric sets. Buy quality over time if not enough $.

 

[Jure]

I'm starting to expand my socket collection into 1/2in drive and ohh boy is it overwhelming and pricey. I don't want to be stuck with a bunch of sockets that collect dust and takeup space. Should I go chrome or impact? Shallow? Mid? Deep?

Will I have any clearance issues if I went with only impact sockets?

Any advice would be highly appreciated.

I bought Brand new NOS Gedore 1/2 set in metal box 10-32 mm with ratchet,extensions etc etc for like $50 (its a $600+ set) in local store just before they went out of business. Also bought the NOS E torx Gedore set for $20,same store. Since i am a weekend warrior majority of my wrenching is done on motorcycles,i rarely even use 1/2 drive,most used 1/2 socket is 32mm with 1/2 18" breaker bar for front sprocket. I bought set of 1/2 allen's as well. They are pricey,but my entire 1/2 set was like $100 with allen's and all so great deal on brand new tools,but like i said i dont even reach for the 1/2 for the work i do. I would go crome deep and shallow,that's all what i would spend money speaking of 1/2 drive. I would look for used sockets at local flea markets,$1 for 32 mm aint that bad.

 

[wafrederick]

Sometimes an impact socket does not fit in spots.Grey Pnuematic does sell the duo sockets in 1/2 drive