1 3/4" Angle to support workbench top?

[KeyserSoze]

I'm building a workbench. My workshop isn't very big so I'd like to be able to slide my welding table under the workbench when I'm not using it, and then roll it out to the middle of the room for welding or to use as an additional workbench when I do need it.

What do you think of using 1 3/4" angle, with 1/4" web thickness, to support the top? The top will be doubled up 0.75" plywood with 1.5" total thickness, so it'll nestle right in to the shelf made by the angle. Is that strong enough to avoid sagging across a 59" (the width of my toolbox) span? And is the 1.5" ledge of the angle enough support for the doubled-up plywood? I'm not planning to put anything super heavy on the workbench, but I don't want it flimsy either.

For legs, I'm planning on 2x2" 11g square tubing because I've got 20' of it left over. I'm planning to use hitch receiver tubing for the horizontal members going front to back, so I can plug attachments in for my vise, grinder, tube notcher, tubing bender, etc., in to the bench. I'll build it such that the top of the hitch receiver tubing is flush with the top of the angle, and flush with the top of the doubled-up plywood, segmenting the wooden top every where there's a leg. I'll weld angle to the sides of the hitch receiver too, so each section of top is supported on all 4 sides. I'll lag bolt the bench to wall studs so it doesn't shift around. Finally, I'll top it off with 1/8" steel sheet, bent down in front to cover the front lip and bent up in back for a backsplash. Should I build legs in the back next to the wall, or only have legs in front and let the studs I lag bolt to support the back? My walls are 2x6 studs 12" OC, and I've got a bunch of 3/8" lag bolts 3" long sitting in a box. Drywall is 5/8", and I'd rather not cut it if I can avoid it.

If the pic worked, you can see where my toolbox and welding table are now. That wall is 12' long up to the doorway, and I'd like one continuous workbench there, with the toolbox and welding table under it. The toolbox never needs to move for day-to-day use, but it's the perfect height with casters under it, and I'm planning to leave the casters on so I can roll the box out to store a set of tires in the corner. The workbench will extend along the adjacent wall 6 or 8', and the top will all be the same height.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

 

[bdbecker]

I'm trying to wrap my head around what your plan is... maybe draw something up and post a picture of it? It might make things a little easier to understand. Don't worry if you can't draw very well, most of us can't.

 

[the GOAT]

TL;DR

Needs more ms paint.

 

[sberry]

That will work.

 

[KeyserSoze]

The angle would form a tray that the plywood sits in. There'd be angle around all 4 sides of each segment of wooden top, maybe with mitered corners.

I took pics with 2" angle because that's all I had onhand. With 1 3/4" angle, the top edge of the steel will be level with the top edge of the wood. I'd weld the angle to the hitch receivers that run front-to-back so the top of the angle is level with the top of the hitch receiver. The hitch receiver tubing will sit on top of the legs of the workbench. The 3rd pic is one I drew, looking straight down at the workbench.

 

[matt_i]

How do you install the shear pin which holds in the drawbar, or is it held in with the end of a bolt driving against the inner-tube sidewall?

 

[bdbecker]

Ohhhhh, now I get it! I'm not sure what your definition of flimsy is, but that should be pretty sturdy, especially once you get the 1/8" top on there.

This is going to be the workbench, correct? If this is the welding table, I think the plywood could be a bit of a fire hazard.

As far as the legs go, personally, I would make it a stand alone unit with front and rear legs. That way you aren't tied into the building structure if you ever change your mind about where its located in the garage, need to move it for a special project, or if you sell the house and want to bring it with. If you don't want to have it shifting around, you could build it with rear legs and lag it to the wall.

 

[38Chevy454]

Is 1.75 angle available at your local steel supply? seems a non-std size and you may have to special order, with potential min qty

 

[KeyserSoze]

How do you install the shear pin which holds in the drawbar, or is it held in with the end of a bolt driving against the inner-tube sidewall?

I drill a hole on the corner of the hitch receiver tubing, weld a nut on the outside, and then I tighten a bolt through the hole against the corner of the drawbar. It's on the corner so it takes up slack in both directions at once. I got the idea from a thread on here years ago.

 

[KeyserSoze]

This is going to be the workbench, correct? If this is the welding table, I think the plywood could be a bit of a fire hazard.

Yep, this is just a workbench. I have a separate 2'x4' welding table with 3/8" steel top. It's on casters, and I want to be able to roll it under this workbench.

As far as the legs go, personally, I would make it a stand alone unit with front and rear legs.

Good idea. Instead of welding up one big L-shaped workbench, maybe I'll weld up two rectangular ones that bolt to each other in an L-shape.

Is 1.75 angle available at your local steel supply? seems a non-std size and you may have to special order, with potential min qty

Good point. I've never used it before, but have seen it online. I'll have to check with the local supplier.

Thanks guys!

 

[PugetDude]

1-3/4" is not a standard angle size. Don't even look for it...calls like that is what the guys on the order desk at the steel service centers live for...

1/4" x 1-1/2" angle will be fine for your 59" span. Your doubled-up plywood will be just a bit taller than the 1-1/4"" deep tray you are dropping it into; won't affect form or function. If you need it to be absolutely flush, cut a shallow rabbet around the perimeter of the first sheet, then add the second layer to bring it flush.

And remember, 3/4" plywood is not 3/4" thick....more like 23/32"

 

[Blazinzuk]

Another tip. Angle while having a very sharp edge on the outside, has a much more gradual transition on the inside.

Sanding a bit off the corner of your bottom wood will help the wood lay much flatter in the angle iron frame

 

[Falcon67]

Is 1.75 angle available at your local steel supply? seems a non-std size and you may have to special order, with potential min qty

This. I was thinking 2" would be easier to find and likely cheaper because it's common.