Is there an extension for these ratchets that one can get separately?
Perhaps but, sometimes a little distance can improve access.Maybe I'm being slow here, but if there's room for an extension wouldn't you just use a regular ratchet? I think of bit ratchets sole use as a solution for low-clearance fasteners. Or maybe for a lightweight kit for a motorcycle.

I have had a fair bit of bit-ratchet stuff, but never been super-happy with it. I loved my Icon 1/4" roto-head ratchet, and thought roto might be a plus in this application, so I got a Carlyle roto bit ratchet and it's... OK.
Saw the hype on Reddit about the Icon bit ratchet kit, and had just done a couple things where it would have come in handy, so I got one.
It has been awesome. The combination of a flex head and the pass-through extension has made this thing absolutely invaluable. I've used it far more than I expected.
For example: I was struggling to get to the back torx bolts on the PCV of the family Volvo. (the big plastic thing that says "febi" - this is actually the replacement part)
The roto was too bulky and fouled on the top of the engine bay (which also prevented the use of my straight bit-driver) or in one spot a fastener coming off the firewall.
Then I remembered I had the Icon kit. The slim head made getting under the top of the engine bay no issue. The pass-through let me avoid the fastener on the firewall and 'get down' a bit on a couple of the more-stubborn bolts. As soon as I broke it out, a PITA job became an easy job.
Very happy now with my setup:
I didn't think to take a pic of the roto there, but the head was too tall and too wide to be much help, plus the pass-through was a big help.
The T-handle also comes in extremely handy.
I got a set of very-shallow 1/4" sockets from O'Reilley's to go with the kit: (shown here lined up roughly at the same 8mm-14mm of my Tekton set - my Icon and SK sets are roughly as tall):
So with this as my current kit, I'm feeling pretty good...
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I carry one on the motorcycle and on a long trip it was the only tool we had that could get some of the bodywork off of my friend’s GS. I recently in a moment of weakness purchased this set that I totally don’t need.2 pages and no mention of this:
Wera Tool Check Plus (Metric)
My Daughter got me one for Father's Day and I love it.



(I missed this when you posted it - sorry for the typically over-long windup to a question) It's funny - I bought this car (2010 Volvo V70) from a friend for one of my spawn. It was originally purchased by her mom, then she bought it from her mom and sold it about this time last year to me with 194K miles on it. I have all the records, and with that mileage I went looking for a water pump. Nothing. That alarmed me. I love this girl like a sister, but she and her very-awesome husband know less-than-**** about cars. It had always been serviced by Volvo or a specialty Swedish indy, so I wondered if I just didn't have complete records. The car had a split CV boot, and I didn't want to deal with the BS and mess of replacing it and swapping in a new axle was more expensive than having the Swedish shop replace the boot, so I had them do it. When I picked up the car, I mentioned the mileage and when a water pump was due. He said something like "we almost never have to do the water pump on these" and mentioned a coupler that separates the water pump from the direct stress of the belts, start-up, etc that has a replacement interval of 150K (That long handled bit ratchet will pay dividends when it's time for the water pump on that engine.
-Ryan
The combination of the extension with pass-thru, the flex-head and t-handle is what separates it (and the same thing from the same factory from VIM, Facom, etc) from 'regular' bit ratchets which I'd never found much use for.Thanks for posting. I was struggling to find a use case for these. Is it just a bunch of screwdrivers in one? How is this different than just a multi-bit 1/4 screw driver or stubby? I kept asking myself.
I have had a fair bit of bit-ratchet stuff, but never been super-happy with it. I loved my Icon 1/4" roto-head ratchet, and thought roto might be a plus in this application, so I got a Carlyle roto bit ratchet and it's... OK.
Saw the hype on Reddit about the Icon bit ratchet kit, and had just done a couple things where it would have come in handy, so I got one.
It has been awesome. The combination of a flex head and the pass-through extension has made this thing absolutely invaluable. I've used it far more than I expected.
For example: I was struggling to get to the back torx bolts on the PCV of the family Volvo. (the big plastic thing that says "febi" - this is actually the replacement part)
The roto was too bulky and fouled on the top of the engine bay (which also prevented the use of my straight bit-driver) or in one spot a fastener coming off the firewall.
Then I remembered I had the Icon kit. The slim head made getting under the top of the engine bay no issue. The pass-through let me avoid the fastener on the firewall and 'get down' a bit on a couple of the more-stubborn bolts. As soon as I broke it out, a PITA job became an easy job.
Very happy now with my setup:
I didn't think to take a pic of the roto there, but the head was too tall and too wide to be much help, plus the pass-through was a big help.
The T-handle also comes in extremely handy.
I got a set of very-shallow 1/4" sockets from O'Reilley's to go with the kit: (shown here lined up roughly at the same 8mm-14mm of my Tekton set - my Icon and SK sets are roughly as tall):
So with this as my current kit, I'm feeling pretty good...
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It's from the same factory in Taiwan (I forget which one). VIM has a set from there too (longer extension), along with Facom, Toptul, and others, even Mac has one. AFAIK, the Icon kit is far less expensive than any of them. It looks like they might have even dropped the price $5 to $40.
I think we decided it’s from Rotar.It's from the same factory in Taiwan (I forget which one). VIM has a set from there too (longer extension), along with Facom, Toptul, and others, even Mac has one. AFAIK, the Icon kit is far less expensive than any of them. It looks like they might have even dropped the price $5 to $40.
I would also advise considering the Wera.If you need a very compact bit driver, in my opinion, you can't beat the Wera Zyklop Mini. Just 4" long with a 60T ratchet and thumbwheel.
When fitted with a 1/4 hex to 1/4 adaptor it makes a very handy 1/4" drive ratchet for tight spaces and electronics.
Pictured below with a 10mm KoKen Zeal socket. The adaptor is a Wera one but shorter (more compact) ones are available.
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(I missed this when you posted it - sorry for the typically over-long windup to a question) It's funny - I bought this car (2010 Volvo V70) from a friend for one of my spawn. It was originally purchased by her mom, then she bought it from her mom and sold it about this time last year to me with 194K miles on it. I have all the records, and with that mileage I went looking for a water pump. Nothing. That alarmed me. I love this girl like a sister, but she and her very-awesome husband know less-than-**** about cars. It had always been serviced by Volvo or a specialty Swedish indy, so I wondered if I just didn't have complete records. The car had a split CV boot, and I didn't want to deal with the BS and mess of replacing it and swapping in a new axle was more expensive than having the Swedish shop replace the boot, so I had them do it. When I picked up the car, I mentioned the mileage and when a water pump was due. He said something like "we almost never have to do the water pump on these" and mentioned a coupler that separates the water pump from the direct stress of the belts, start-up, etc that has a replacement interval of 150K (). He looked at the record and said "We did it on this car at 155K, so you're good until 300K." Coming from BMW's and Hondas, a water pump lasting that long, much less a service interval of 150K miles, boggled my mind.
So (finally) my questions: Were you referring to the coupler? Thoughts on what he said?
I would also advise considering the Wera.
I own one myself, though I freely admit I have so many bit ratchets that this cannot be considered a recommendation any more!
So often with bit ratchets, you need the smallest that’s effective, and so often that’s the Wera. The design, with it’s slim neck, is incredibly well thought out too, but you don’t realise till you start using it.
They are not so well known, but Wera also make a “mini ratchet” to match their “mini bit ratchet”. Another nicely made little tool. Part No‘s are 8008 for the mini ratchet, and 8001 for the bit ratchet.
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It's from the same factory in Taiwan (I forget which one). VIM has a set from there too (longer extension), along with Facom, Toptul, and others, even Mac has one. AFAIK, the Icon kit is far less expensive than any of them. It looks like they might have even dropped the price $5 to $40.
I have the '10 V70 wagon with the 3.6L six. I'm still getting to know it, so I can't say I know what it has other than supposedly the P3 platform and the early signs of Ford ..You have the earlier version of the engine with the PS pump right up against the water pump? There's a coupler that's reuseable, but aslo a little dowel pin that isn't (IMHO). Volvo includes the dowel pin with the water pump. I replace the water pump at 150K, not too spendy to do.
On the later engines, Volvo holds the water pump in with hex-head (i.e. Alled-head) screws. Near impossible to get at them without a bit driver. Really tight!
-Ryan
I have the '10 V70 wagon with the 3.6L six. I'm still getting to know it, so I can't say I know what it has other than supposedly the P3 platform and the early signs of Ford .
Continuing the tangent, I need to look up what the threads on the slide pins are - M8x1.5 was too small diameter but matched threads, M10 anything was too big. I was lucky the caliper carrier figured it out after a while of coaxing while on the vise with one of the pins.
Yeah - I hope to never need a helicoil. (which means I'll definitely need one)They're M9x1.25, basically all of the "allen head stud slide pin" style calipers are, from Audi to Ford.
I once fixed a stripped out one grinding the threads off the pin, cutting it to M8x1.25, then helicoiling the caliper. It was for a coworkers POS audi. I since bought the official M9 helicoil, which has prevented me ever needing it. Thank god.
Yeah - I hope to never need a helicoil. (which means I'll definitely need one)
I've been so happy with my Lang thread restorer kit - it has pulled me out of several jams - and as a doofus DIY guy, to not have a size in there threw me for a loop.
It wasn't so much stripped as one of the early thread loops on the caliper bracket was just a little borked. I just had to work the pin and and out several times, just letting it bring itself along. I was on the verge of punting and trying to find the carrier at the local boneyards when it worked itself out...
A search of the Lang site seems to indicate they don't make a M9 thread restorer. Surprising.M7x1.00 is also a size benz uses. I too use my lang kit several times a week. Obviously not included in the lang kit, is something stupid like M7x1. Luckily Benz also used identical torque specs to an M6x1 bolt, which means there was zero use for such a fastener to ever exist.
When the Lang kit doesn't have what I need, there is slight panic as I sort through everything else to find what I need. Even if they cost $1000 I'd still buy one because it's that useful.
A search of the Lang site seems to indicate they don't make a M9 thread restorer. Surprising.
I need to order a couple replacements for my 971 kit...