1/4" swivel/u-joint

[rick carpenter]

I'm looking to upgrade some socket accessories. I'll call the joint style on the left a "u-joint" and the one on the right a "swivel". We all had/have u-joints. The problem with most of them is that they can bind up in use and are floppy. The best u-joints I have ever found are old Craftsmans like in the pic, which I have a few. The shoulders of these u-joints are rounded in a way that makes binding less likely. However, they're each very floppy. I've wrapped a layer of electrical tape over the joints to stiffen them up some. The impact world has given us pinned and pinless swivels which everyone agrees are better designs, but hardly any in chrome. I did find two no name cheap chrome import swivel sets that I would never consider, and I found a Gearwrench 1/4" impact swivel.

Would the GW 1/4" impact swivel be worth the price ($21.23 at MSC direct) or do I stick with my taped up C-Man 1/4" u-joint?

 

[Tools4Me]

Before you start looking for a new universal or swivel joint, try the O-ring method instead of the electrical tape method for keeping a universal from wobbling. Go through your assortment (or buy a cheap assortment if you don't have any) of nitrile O-rings, and pick out one that will slip firmly into the u-joint's swivel area. Then test out your u-joint for function. It should tighten up the joint noticeably and prevent floppiness, but unlike the electrical tape method it will work without issue for a long time instead of the tape coming apart slowly or getting in the way. If the first o-ring you try doesn't provide enough firmness, try a smaller diameter o-ring or an o-ring that has a thicker cross-section.

I attached an older image of my metric swivel socket set, so you can see how the O-rings are installed.

 

[tamaraw]

No reason that you can't use impact parts with hand tools but they will be a bit larger and heavier. These cv-style joints from Ko-ken might be a good alternative:

 

[KnurledNut]

Advance Auto is selling a spring-loaded chrome universal set (Diehard brand, COO Taiwan).
Part #DHP55168

The o-ring hack works okay for temporary use, but ive had them come off/break in use and thats not something you want falling into a critical component. Certain fluids break down generic o-rings. I quit doing it. Something with a lower durometer and higher chemical resistance than NBR may work better. YMMV.

 

[slowtwitch73]

Could use a length of tube from a road bike.

 

[rick carpenter]

I didn't think to look at KoKen but I'd definitely go with their 1/4" chrome swivel over the GW impact swivel, just a much cleaner look.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I have the Koken swivels in ⅜" and they're by far the best to use. Much better than a typical UJ, no binding, no flopping about. If you need to use one on a really long extension it's much easier to locate the socket on a nut or bolt.

 

[CJM8515]

been super happy with the gearwrench impact 1/4 swivel for years.

 

[64C10]

I usually put a piece of heat shrink over them when they get too floppy.

That said, my all time favorite universals are the “Expert” chromed ones. I can pack the pin slot with grease to stiffen it up if needed.

 

[Ricky Joe]

Sometimes I think that if you have to ask the question, maybe another career would be in your best interest.

 

[Walkers]

Before you start looking for a new universal or swivel joint, try the O-ring method instead of the electrical tape method for keeping a universal from wobbling. Go through your assortment (or buy a cheap assortment if you don't have any) of nitrile O-rings, and pick out one that will slip firmly into the u-joint's swivel area. Then test out your u-joint for function. It should tighten up the joint noticeably and prevent floppiness, but unlike the electrical tape method it will work without issue for a long time instead of the tape coming apart slowly or getting in the way. If the first o-ring you try doesn't provide enough firmness, try a smaller diameter o-ring or an o-ring that has a thicker cross-section.

I attached an older image of my metric swivel socket set, so you can see how the O-rings are installed.

I hope to hell that I remember this when I am back out in the shop tomorrow!!!

 

[matthew]

I’ve also seen the spring loaded u-joints branded as Titan. I have one from another rebrand - it’s the first u-joint I actually like. I’m a DIY’re, so take it FWIW, but I recommend.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J5DCBWB/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Mallen]

I'm looking to upgrade some socket accessories. I'll call the joint style on the left a "u-joint" and the one on the right a "swivel". We all had/have u-joints. The problem with most of them is that they can bind up in use and are floppy. The best u-joints I have ever found are old Craftsmans like in the pic, which I have a few. The shoulders of these u-joints are rounded in a way that makes binding less likely. However, they're each very floppy. I've wrapped a layer of electrical tape over the joints to stiffen them up some. The impact world has given us pinned and pinless swivels which everyone agrees are better designs, but hardly any in chrome. I did find two no name cheap chrome import swivel sets that I would never consider, and I found a Gearwrench 1/4" impact swivel.

Would the GW 1/4" impact swivel be worth the price ($21.23 at MSC direct) or do I stick with my taped up C-Man 1/4" u-joint?

I use some snap ons and a few old williams and armstrongs from the swap meet. I found about ten years ago that the cheap ines?were worthless and that the craftsman ones were the swme as rhe cheap ones. I had a new craftsman fall apart before i even put it on the end of a wrench.

My experience has been, u joints are not something to go cheap on. Because of what they are they are allways the weak link. Even good ones are the weakest link in rhe chain.

 

[plinker]

I generally use an impact swivel as they have a smoother operating motion, but I did pick up one of these spring loaded u-joints from Matco a while back, works quite well and has not failed as of yet, I dont use it every single day, but it does get hard use when it does get used. I was impressed enough to pick up the 3/8 drive version as well.
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/AUSL1/1-4-DRIVE-SPRING-LOADED-UNIVERSAL-JOINT-SOCKET/

 

[426 HEMI]

I have the Koken single and double universals, they are by far the best that I have used. The double universals can go on some ridiculous angles and still turn super smooth. I have 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 in both styles, worth every cent.

 

[Lucid Moments]

I’ve also seen the spring loaded u-joints branded as Titan. I have one from another rebrand - it’s the first u-joint I actually like. I’m a DIY’re, so take it FWIW, but I recommend.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J5DCBWB/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have what seem to be the same ones and I am a big fan. Make a big difference when you are trying to get a socket on a bell housing bolt which is what I have used them for so far.

 

[Dakotadadv8]

Snap on u joints set 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive works well.

 

[dnschmidt]

TOPTUL: https://www.toptul.com/en/product-553617/45°-Universal-Ball-Joint.html Far superior to the normal (non-ball) universal joints.

 

[KnurledNut]

TOPTUL: https://www.toptul.com/en/product-553617/45°-Universal-Ball-Joint.html Far superior to the normal (non-ball) universal joints.

What might be gained in strength, is lost in working angle.

 

[Xcursion88]

Snap on
TMU88

 

[Xcursion88]

Not sloppy whatsoever

 

[Dakotadadv8]

Snap on
TMU88

They are precious when you really need them.

 

[KnurledNut]

TMU88

TMU8B

 

[Tinner]

I have Snap-on and Koken (both styles). They're both outstanding.

 

[dnschmidt]

What might be gained in strength, is lost in working angle.

It goes to 45 degrees which is about as much as makes practical sense. Beyond that things get weird with the double jointed ones anyway.