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1/4 turn shut off valve leaking

branimal

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I installed this shut off valve that threads onto a 1/2" copper male fitting. I used teflon tape and 2 wrenches and got it pretty darn tight. But there's a small leak between the copper and the shut off valve.

Directions say to use either teflon or a drop of oil on the threads.

I'm a little afraid to keep cranking on it.

Have you guys had success with these thread on type shutoff valves? I normally but the sweat type shut off valves, but tried to get fancy this time.
 

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Jinks

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Turn the water off, pull the valve off, put more turns of teflon on the threads. Put the valve back on. Teflon is cheap.......:dunno:
 

wayne55

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Maybe another wrap of Teflon tape and some people will add a coating of teflon paste also, such as Rectorseal.
 

DOUGD

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I have always had much better success with a thick coat of Rector seal on the threads than with teflon tape.
 
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branimal

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Good idea with more teflon and lubricant. I've got Pro dope on hand. Directions say it works on copper.
 

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tarmy

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Maybe another wrap of Teflon tape and some people will add a coating of teflon paste also, such as Rectorseal.

This...always. OP...are you using the correct Teflon tape? There are different versions for gas and other uses.
 
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branimal

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tarmy; said:
This...always. OP...are you using the correct Teflon tape? There are different versions for gas and other uses.



Definitely not gas tape. The blue coded one. I’ll take a look tomorrow.
 
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branimal

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Speaking of tape I remember a plumber friend of mine gave me a roll of mega tape. 3/4” wide grey tape. He swore by it. Going to pick up a roll of that for future jobs.
 

vjquan

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You'd be surprised how much more you can turn it given more strength and/or leverage. I was replacing the hose bib of my water heater with a ball valve. Kept having a small ever so slight leak at the ****** fitting between the heater and valve. I also thought it was "pretty darn tight" until I pulled out my pliers wrench and cranked on it. Easily got another full turn out of it.
 
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branimal

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I’ve got a crescent wrench on the valve and slip joint pliers (channel lock) on the copper male.
 
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vjquan

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It's hard to get a good hold with slip joints since you have to squeeze and hold at the same time. Two crescent wrenches would be better, 8" or 10" if you have the space. If you're using 6" wrenches, that will severely limit your tightening ability. How much is it leaking, like drips or very small seepage? A little turn may be all you need.
 
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branimal

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vjquan; said:
It's hard to get a good hold with slip joints since you have to squeeze and hold at the same time. Two crescent wrenches would be better, 8" or 10" if you have the space. If you're using 6" wrenches, that will severely limit your tightening ability. How much is it leaking, like drips or very small seepage? A little turn may be all you need.


It’s a small leak... I think a little turn more will get me there and I’ll still be able to hook up the supply line, even though the valve is not pointing north.
 

johninct

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Sometimes stuff from a Big Box store doesn't have the best threads. If it is from a real plumbing store, you can use BOTH tape and paste to get it leak free. And sometimes, even if it is a top brand fitting from a plumbing store, sometimes the threads are just not right and you need another valve and pipe.
 

stokefire7

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Sometimes stuff from a Big Box store doesn't have the best threads. If it is from a real plumbing store, you can use BOTH tape and paste to get it leak free. And sometimes, even if it is a top brand fitting from a plumbing store, sometimes the threads are just not right and you need another valve and pipe.

That's a valid point.
 

egdede

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The 2nd tape down is Gray but only 1/2" wide. Extra thick. Made in USA!!!
 

jhelrey

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Don't crack it but over tightening it. You're best bet is some tape then Rectorseal.
 

manwithtools

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Use compound, not tape. A lot of pipe fitters use tape, then compound. Probably none use just tape.

I think you would be amazed how many people only use Teflon tape and have great success. I've never had to add "pipe dope" to a NPT connection if the parts were of decent quality. I have encountered some fittings that would not correctly seal due to poor manufacturing quality, I'd replace them before adding "dope" to the equation.

I know others will argue the point, but it's common in industrial applications to only use tape.
 
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Innovate1

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I recently had a similar problem with a VERY small leak on the incoming line threaded connection. Tried tape and more tape. Was about ready to take them back for replacements. Then did tape and rector seal. Worked like a champ.
 
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branimal

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Tape, pipe dope, and 2 crescent wrenches worked. I was sweating bullets when I made that last turn with the 360 revolution.

Thanks guys.
 
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