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1" C-shaped Nut Splitter

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MattRMagnum

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<insert all the very obvious jokes>

Does anyone have a c-shaped nut splitter that handles either 25mm or 1"? I've a 24mm nut I need to remove, and I think splitting it is going to be the best option... but it's in a difficult-to-reach spot and jammed up against another part (why it needs to be split). Getting a normal O-ring splitter onto it isn't possible.

I've been Googling around for such a tool, but I can't find any that go larger than 3/4ths. I'm beginning to suspect it might not exist.

I did find this old thread, but the common recommends all cap-out at 3/4ths of an inch (or are the o-ring style).
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77314
 
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matt_i

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Dremel tool with reinforced/woven cutoff wheels?

It will work, its slower and may require a few disks. Not sure if you have one.

There's always the blue wrench if the nut is rusted, but the heat could compromise nearby items.
 
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mcj115

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Hershey PA
Would a HK Porter jaw type but splitter do the job? I'm ve had crappy o ring style ones and decided to step up and buy a slitter that should last a lifetime.
 
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MattRMagnum

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matt_i said:
Dremel tool with reinforced/woven cutoff wheels?

It will work, its slower and may require a few disks. Not sure if you have one.

There's always the blue wrench if the nut is rusted, but the heat could compromise nearby items.
Click to expand...

I'd kind of ruled both of those ideas out, given the tight clearance. Plus, if I slag the idler arm itself, I've to hunt down a Mercedes part that's probably ungodly expensive. Oh, and the fact the car has a rather pervasive oil leak, and I just discovered what looks like a mild transmission fluid leak.

Bogie1632 said:
Can you get an air chisel on it?

V/R
Bogie
Click to expand...
Maybe. That's an approach I hadn't considered. I'll go stare at it tomorrow. It'd mean buying an air chisel, but this might just be an excuse to do so.

mcj115 said:
Would a HK Porter jaw type but splitter do the job? I'm ve had crappy o ring style ones and decided to step up and buy a slitter that should last a lifetime.
Click to expand...
I don't think I have room to both get one in + cut the bolt. I think if I could get it, I wouldn't have room to maneuver the arms.
 
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mautotech

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Feb 13, 2012
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If you have space and flammability concerns, use a Mini Ductor. I use the wrap around cord a lot for tight spots. Heats up stuff great with no flame.
 
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MattRMagnum

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mautotech said:
If you have space and flammability concerns, use a Mini Ductor. I use the wrap around cord a lot for tight spots. Heats up stuff great with no flame.
Click to expand...

Would this actually cut through the metal, or just heat it up enough to potentially loosen it?

shawhite said:
Will something like this work

https://shop.snapon.com/product/supplemental/Double-edge-Mechanical-Nut-Splitter/KUK542
Click to expand...
Nope. No clearance. I can't get that over the top, and onto the bolt itself. Thus why I was searching for a c-shaped one.

Mohawk Dave said:
Straight die grinder with a cone burr? Just slice it...?
Click to expand...
I think a die grinder with a cone burr, or maybe an air chisel, will be my best bet.
 
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MBfreak

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Matt
I THINK I know which nut you are trying to loose. Pic?
My redneck solution is to drill a row of 1/8" ( well 3 mm for me) holes along top to bottom on a flat side of the nut, around 4 mm deep. Be precise so the holes almost overlaps.
Then a suitably vshaped chisel and a BFH. One hard hit.
This will crack the nut open so it is easy to unscrew.
In a lighter vein:

Again, send the entire 450 SEL 6,9 to me :).
I will fix it for you.
Transportation may kill it, though.
450SEL 6,9 at a traffic light close to a rice racer is great fun when lights turn green
Ola
 
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MattRMagnum

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p_mori7 said:
K-Tool has one that goes to 15/16".

Available on Amazon.
Click to expand...
Not quite large enough, I think. That's 23.8mm, and I need 24mm. The nut is very nearly 1" across the flats.
MBfreak said:
Matt
I THINK I know which nut you are trying to loose. Pic?
My redneck solution is to drill a row of 1/8" ( well 3 mm for me) holes along top to bottom on a flat side of the nut, around 4 mm deep. Be precise so the holes almost overlaps.
Then a suitably vshaped chisel and a BFH. One hard hit.
This will crack the nut open so it is easy to unscrew.
In a lighter vein:

Again, send the entire 450 SEL 6,9 to me :).
I will fix it for you.
Transportation may kill it, though.
450SEL 6,9 at a traffic light close to a rice racer is great fun when lights turn green
Ola
Click to expand...
It's the nut for the Idler Arm. I've a buddy coming over tomorrow to help me out with it. If we can't get it removed, about what you're describing is going to be my next solution: get some diamond drill bits and bore holes into it until it's weak, and then split it. I bought a new idler arm, so the nut isn't needed.

I do intend to sell my '77 in a couple years, after I've put the interior back into it. If you want to pay for shipping, you're welcome to buy it. :)
 
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