10" blade advice

[ct111]

so i bought a ryobi 10" table saw model rts31 used and used it to rip some 2x4s this weekend and it was real slow cutting and almost smoking while cutting. i assume the blade was pretty dull and not of the best quality since it came with the saw. im wanting to buy a good general purpose blade for it and seeking your guys advice as to brand and tooth count.thanks

 

[d.mcfarland]

Diablo or Freud. I'm thinking your blade is dull or bent.

 

[McFarmer]

I buy all my blades from these folks, very happy with the service:

http://www.jdlacourseandson.com/Carbide-Saws-s/1890.htm

If ripping only, then you want a rip blade. I do a lot of each and use a separate blade, you can however use a "combination" blade if you wish.

Fewer teeth for rip than crosscut.

 

[Cope]

I use a Freud thin kerf 60 tooth for cross cut and a thin kerf 24 tooth for rip cuts.

 

[Voi]

so i bought a ryobi 10" table saw model rts31 used and used it to rip some 2x4s this weekend and it was real slow cutting and almost smoking while cutting. i assume the blade was pretty dull and not of the best quality since it came with the saw. im wanting to buy a good general purpose blade for it and seeking your guys advice as to brand and tooth count.thanks

I wouldn't get a general purpose blade for ripping dimensional lumber. Get a high end dedicated ripping blade if you need to rip a lot of 2x stock. I would not use a combination blade for this personally.

 

[The Cobbler]

what has been said above, and I emphasize " thin kerf"

 

[woody 73]

You got to just love this new technology wish I had it Fifty years ago!

http://www.woodcraft.com/Articles/Articles.aspx?articleid=691

 

[Milton Shaw]

Also check the rip fence and make sure it is parallel to the blade as it could have been damaged in moving. Check also that the blade is parallel to the miter slots in the table so that your crosscuts have a chance to be accurate. If they are not parallel then any blade will burn and not cut good. Probably the blade but I have seen so saws so far off square and parallel that they would not cut until adjusted, some so far off that the motor overload would trip from all the friction.

 

[BFHtime]

Sometimes pitch builds up on the blade. It is like tar and sticks to the material. In my experience more heat seems to make this worse. Feeding too fast can cause more heat. High tooth count carbide blades make a difference. Freud makes a really good blades but there are less expensive blades that do a good job. Cheap blades are not worth bothering with unless you know you are going to have to cut nails or something hard like staples, at least that is what I save them for. Low tooth count bigger teeth are supposed to be better for rough cuts or rips cuts, but in my experience high tooth count carbide toothed blades give the best cuts and last longer, and could even be argued to be safer because they are smoother, but technique trumps blade style.

 

[PugetDude]

I use a Freud thin kerf 60 tooth for cross cut and a thin kerf 24 tooth for rip cuts.

^^^+1^^^

Thin kerf is a must on smaller saws, they don't have the power to drive a standard kerf blade, especially when ripping hardwood or thicker stock.

 

[ct111]

thanks guys

 

[scw1991]

ripping 2x4's with a Ryobi table saw? Wow!

That's tough because when ripping, the 2x4 will warp really bad causing a lot of binding of the blade. You really need a higher horsepower cabinet saw and a splitter.