100% epoxy solid clear topcoat or Polyaspartic

[Mattb1]

Good morning everyone,

I am working on fixing a bad epoxy job. The installer used 100% solid epoxy and full broadcast chip, no topcoat. I called him back and he offered to put a 100% solid clear epoxy as the topcoat. Is this standard at all or recommended? Wont this yellow? He used seal krete industrial high performance epoxy.

I'm tempted to just finish it myself as his work has not been good at all. Will polyaspartic top coat prevent the yellowing of the clear coat and the gray epoxy / black marble chips underneath? Or any product recommendations for the top coat?

The garage faces west, so its shade until late mid day and sunset when it gets some sun when open.

thanks in advance for all the help here.

 

[Shea]

Color flakes are acrylic and will not yellow. Neither will polyaspartic. However, epoxy will yellow (amber)over a period of time depending on how much direct sun it gets.

You said it was a full broadcast of color flakes, but you also mention the gray epoxy color. If epoxy is showing, then it was not a full broadcast and the epoxy that is exposed may yellow regardless of the clear coat applied. If the epoxy is not showing, then the entire surface will be U.V. stable and yellow free with a polyaspartic top coat.

 

[Mattb1]

here is a current photo. its pretty rough texture - looks like a lot of the epoxy was soaked into concrete.

 

[benwah]

If the rest of the floor looks like that picture, I would go for a second light broadcast to even it out and then a top coat of clear polyaspartic/polyurea.

 

[Armorpoxy]

We would recommend sanding this down (full broadcasts always need to be scraped hard or sanded to knock down the high spots from the overlapping flecks) and then applying two coats of either our Military Grade Urethane or Polyurea since the overlapping flecks also make the floor very porous.

Contact us directly at below with sq footage and we can get you a quote on the materials.