$1000 Budget… Woodworking from Scrap…

[Ryan]

So… Question for you guys… I am taking on a project in Hawaii this summer that will essentially be rehabbing an old 50‘s era Sears/Roebuck house. Other than hand tools that I shipped over, I will be starting from scratch. The only source for tools on the island (Kauai) that I know is Home Depot (Ugh). To simplify, I need the foundation tools for building cabinets. There are other projects to be done obviously, but for the way I work if I can build a square box, I can build/repair most anything.

My initial thought was track saw, cordless drill/driver, router (with track adaptor), and sander. But that’s just the tools I learned on… Guys learn with different stuff…

And I thought it would be a helpful exercise for me to see how other folks would tackle this… Maybe table saw and chop saw for more versatility, etc…

If ya got time or are bored, how about helping a fella out and just listing what you would do?

 

[dr_clyde]

Gregor (Sakurama) has pretty much built his entire house from a Festool Kapex and track saw. Between those two things, a domino, sander and vacuum, I would think you have it on the run.

I would think if you already have the drill, sander, router and track saw, I'd splurge for the kapex and domino.

Obviously if you don't want to go full bling you could settle for a more pedestrian brand, but IIRC, you drink the green kool aid.

Mid-Century Moto Mecca Makeover

NOTE: I never had any idea this thread would become so popular and so there's no plan to the way it unfolds. It's just a story of the journey of getting a house and my first garage. Due to the enthusiasm and support here it's become a compendium of interesting and maybe useful information. That...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[Ryan]

Gregor (Sakurama) has pretty much built his entire house from a Festool Kapex and track saw. Between those two things, a domino, sander and vacuum, I would think you have it on the run.

I would think if you already have the drill, sander, router and track saw, I'd splurge for the kapex and domino.

Obviously if you don't want to go full bling you could settle for a more pedestrian brand, but IIRC, you drink the green kool aid.

Mid-Century Moto Mecca Makeover

NOTE: I never had any idea this thread would become so popular and so there's no plan to the way it unfolds. It's just a story of the journey of getting a house and my first garage. Due to the enthusiasm and support here it's become a compendium of interesting and maybe useful information. That...

www.garagejournal.com

I do t have the budget or the means to get festool on the island.

so…. Pedestrian brands for me.

 

[Dave455]

I regret I have zero experience with timber frame houses, but I’ve done a bit of cabinet building, and other similar projects. My skills tend to be engineering / metalworking, and I don’t really have the skills, inclination, or time, to get involved with too much fine woodworking.

I think you’re right about being able to build a square box, and I’ve followed the same principle. I’ve always thought that if I start with square cut and pre drilled timber, in multiples if need be, I end up with a “kit of parts” that’s easy to assemble. This seems to be the case.

Totally agree on the track saw, I cut all my sheet materials with these and they’re great. You will need a chop saw / mitre saw just as much. Without one you have to hand saw anything your track saw can’t handle and that doesn’t work for me. It’s not a question of time, but accuracy.

Sander and drill / driver for sure. You may need / find useful more than one sander. You will probably need a larger, orbital sander, but for little extra cost I’d add a palm sander as well. Great for finishing, but also getting to places a big orbital might not. I refinished this door frame entirely with the palm sander.

I might also think about a multitool. With a small blade they are effectively a “power chisel” and quick to use if you need to do any chopping out, but they are so versatile they are a great “get out of trouble” tool. A selection of blades gives a lot of capability but not much bulk.

 

[Ryan]

Sanders… I love the festool RoTex 150 cuz I can use it for typical Sanding and finish sanding… I’ve heard the Bosch alternative is just as good at half the price. I’ve been eyeing that for sure…

 

[RTM]

Buddy of mine just did the finishing of a house remodel, and claims to have done it all w a track saw. Skipped the table saw completely. Supposedly there are adapters etc to make the track saw work for thin material without risking your fingers.

As a mostly hand tool woodworker, I would include a bench plane and a block plane, and a couple of chisels. (And the stuff to sharpen them, scary sharp is very portable) With a good way to hold things, you can remove lots of material easily, much better than a sander in my world. You doing paint grain or stain grade refurbishment?

 

[Los_Control]

I can say when I became disabled, lost house & all my tools, started over from scratch.
I worked several years as a carpenter, many as a finish carpenter ... last 10 years was a lead carpenter on a remodel crew.

Do not get me wrong, losing everything sucked, Life is that way. We need a little pain to appreciate the good things.
i woke up one day and that life was over, wife & I had enough money in the bank to pay cash for our house and started replacing tools.
I pretty much replaced everything I carried on my work van.

My initial thought was track saw, cordless drill/driver, router (with track adaptor), and sander. But that’s just the tools I learned on… Guys learn with different stuff…

Very first tool I bought as a old finish carpenter ... a 4" grinder with 36 grit paper. Simply a tool I can not live without.
Just such a versatile tool. I have used them to carve hand rails on curved stairs ... I can cope base molding with one ... not practical but if no coping saw available? I can carve out the back side of a window casing trim & get it to sit flat against bumpy sheet rock ... so many blades available, cut metal, grind concrete .

We had not bought a house yet, after the house then started the buying spree. Just needed a grinder at the time.
I use a dewalt 12" saw because what I learned on, A disposable portable table saw, pancake compressor, framing, finish, brad guns. router with swapable plunge router base, random orbital sander, sawzall, worm drive skill saw.
With the basic tools I could tackle anything I needed & portable.
Somehow through it all I managed to keep my tool bag. I just love them, been using for over 20 years and know where everything is without looking.

 

[Ryan]

Buddy of mine just did the finishing of a house remodel, and claims to have done it all w a track saw. Skipped the table saw completely. Supposedly there are adapters etc to make the track saw work for thin material without risking your fingers.

As a mostly hand tool woodworker, I would include a bench plane and a block plane, and a couple of chisels. (And the stuff to sharpen them, scary sharp is very portable) With a good way to hold things, you can remove lots of material easily, much better than a sander in my world. You doing paint grain or stain grade refurbishment?

The track saw is my main tool in the shop.

and… paint grade. I’m not quite good enough yet to go stain.

 

[Mandres]

I'd go with a table saw, cheap miter saw, cheap circular saw, cheap palm sander, 4.5" angle grinder, and a drill/driver. Personally, I don't see the value in a tracksaw. A table saw is much more precise, quick and repeatable, and a straight edge + circ saw is just as portable.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Funny you mention Sears I was just there. They had some wood chisels you might need those if you don’t have them already.

 

[Ryan]

I'd go with a table saw, cheap miter saw, cheap circular saw, cheap palm sander, 4.5" angle grinder, and a drill/driver. Personally, I don't see the value in a tracksaw. A table saw is much more precise, quick and repeatable, and a straight edge + circ saw is just as portable.

I think that’s what makes these posts so interesting. Some guys don’t see the value in a track saw and others, like me, can’t imagine working without one. Neither of us is wrong.

 

[gahrajmahal]

A tool I love for doing all types of remodel jobs and one I wouldn’t do without would be a mult-tool of most any kind. I have a Fein, but many others even a cheap harbor freight would work. What do I do with mine? Insert the scraper blade and cut the paint-caulk joint to remove baseboard without needing to repair or repaint the wall. Insert a carbide blade and remove cracked and discolored grout. Using a bi-metal blade cut nails you cannot see and remove cabinets, boards whatever. Same bi-metal blade, cut apart bad plumbing fixtures, drains, stuck bathtub drains and copper pipes. Electrical work? Replace a single box with a double or triple. Slide your bi-metallic blade along side the old box and cut the nails. Pull out the old box, then using your cardboard template plunge that bi-metallic blade into drywall, plaster and lath or whatever the wall is made of and enlarge to the new multi-outlet box (remodeling style of course). And for fine woodworking? When repairing hardwood floors or installing new thresholds when replacing your doors use a straightedge on the installed floor to fit the new wider weird shaped piece. Don’t forget using it to undercut your door jams when installing new tile, hardwood or my new favorite waterproof click and place floating flooring.

it also works on hot Rod stuff in case you will buy a cool car once there.

After rereading the post I almost forgot, it works great to sand nice doors. The small triangle pad works great in corners and Fein has a Profile sanding kit that is great for panel doors.

 

[nadogail]

A square with a straight 2X4, a good steel tape and a pair of C Clamps have helped me through a lot of spots where others wanted a Track Saw.

I bought a multi tool after I asked a kitchen re-modeler how useful are they; he said "Once you get your hands on one, you will ask yourself how did you get along without it". Mine is a DeWalt, because I get 10% discount at Home Depot; I use Bosch Blades on the tool.

 

[Ryan]

A square with a straight 2X4, a good steel tape and a pair of C Clamps have helped me through a lot of spots where others wanted a Track Saw.

I bought a multi tool after I asked a kitchen re-modeler how useful are they; he said "Once you get your hands on one, you will ask yourself how did you get along without it". Mine is a DeWalt, because I get 10% discount at Home Depot; I use Bosch Blades on the tool.

im actually bringing my multi-tool in my luggage.

 

[rsanter]

A buddy of mine lives in Hawaii and is an avid woodworker.
There apparently are a number of woodworkers over there and tools do become for sale on the used market sometimes. Perhaps keep an eye out.


You can also befriend some folks over there with tools and they may help you out a bit

 

[Los_Control]

You are on a budget ... I get it because shipping to Hawaii & may not be worth the cost to ship them back ... probably be able to sell them there to a islander.

What I picture a track saw ... you clamp a straight edge on a piece of plywood and run a skil saw down the edge for a straight cut? Same with a router? I can do same with a piece of string.

KK I just looked up a track saw. I picture if I was hired to install a kitchen, do the trim & hang the doors on a $400k home ... I might be laughed off the job site.

They laugh at me enough when I show up with my home made saw table.
Thing is I have history and they know my work before they would hire me. I have jigs!

I just cant imagine how you would go into a 3500' sqf house, hang kitchen / bath cabinets, Then doors, then window trim with the doors & then run base board with a track saw ... Get it done with a reasonable 2 week turn around.

Point is, you already have the job ... you need to finish it. If the track saw is what you are use to, what got you the job ... you should stick with it.

There are many ways to skin a cat, we all have our choices.

 

[Firebrick43]

I'd go with a table saw, cheap miter saw, cheap circular saw, cheap palm sander, 4.5" angle grinder, and a drill/driver. Personally, I don't see the value in a tracksaw. A table saw is much more precise, quick and repeatable, and a straight edge + circ saw is just as portable.

I take it you don't or have not used a track saw very much?. I have a dewalt tracksaw and a delta unisaw. I am thrilled with the unisaw but I I could only have one in a limited area situation it would be the tracksaw and a fold up MFT style bench.

And a tracksaw can be more precise on sheet goods as its almost impossible to feed a 4x8 sheet of ply thru a table saw and not impart some motion into it. Other than ripping narrow parts to width on the unisaw almost all the Baltic Birch I use is cut to size with the tracksaw. Track saw is also wonderful for maximizing Bdft out of hardwood rough cut lumber.

 

[LeonardY]

If I was to setup, here's what I would have.

Track saw
Miter saw
A corded drill
Impact drill
2', 4' and 8' level
quick clamps
Oscillating tool
A portable drill stand
Saber saw
I quality block plane. I prefer long angle.
hole pocket jig

Of course the usual assortment of hand tools.

I just finished my bathroom cabinets. I could have done all the sheet break down and cut it all to size with the track saw.
I broke down the sheets with my framing saw and sized most everything with my table saw.

That's just my 2 cents.

 

[Ryan]

If I was to setup, here's what I would have.

Track saw
Miter saw
A corded drill
Impact drill
2', 4' and 8' level
quick clamps
Oscillating tool
A portable drill stand
Saber saw
I quality block plane. I prefer long angle.
hole pocket jig

Of course the usual assortment of hand tools.

I just finished my bathroom cabinets. I could have done all the sheet break down and cut it all to size with the track saw.
I broke down the sheets with my framing saw and sized most everything with my table saw.

That's just my 2 cents.

well done sir… just the kind of thing I was looking for.

 

[larry_g]

Have you given thought to the tools needed in the demo stage of the build, such as pry bars and a sawsall? Also a circuit tester to test before you cut into a live wire?

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Ryan]

Have you given thought to the tools needed in the demo stage of the build, such as pry bars and a sawsall? Also a circuit tester to test before you cut into a live wire?

lg
no neat sig line

I won’t be doing much if any demo… my first projects are simple cabinet builds, door installation, etc… From there, I’ll go where the work takes me.

 

[tyyost]

This list lays it all out but breaks the budget -
Track saw
Miter saw
A corded drill
Impact drill
2', 4' and 8' level
quick clamps
Oscillating tool
A portable drill stand
Saber saw
I quality block plane. I prefer long angle.
pocket hole jig

My suggestion shopping at HD
Makita track saw - $350
10“ Mitersaw - I’d consider Ryobi if it looks sturdy, these are hard to mess up. $140-$200
Ryobi Cordless drill and impact driver kit - inexpensive enough and other tools like jigsaw ($70) or sander ($40)won’t break the bank if needed. Not my choice for forever tools but lots of folks get it done with these. $100
Kreg jig of your choosing. $50-$90
Depending on your build style Ryobi cordless nailers get some love too. - $100

And still have some cash for some odds and ends like a decent level and framing square.

 

[Jswain]

Table saw
Router
Circular saw
Sander / paper
4&8ft level
Square
Corner clamps
Bar clamps
Pocket hole jig
Impact driver
Measuring tape
Sheet of 2" rigid foam insulation

Cut everything slightly oversize using the circular saw with the plywood laying on the insulation using the level as a straight edge then trim square on the table saw. Depending how deep the cabinets are/how wide the doors you may need a sliding Mitre saw

You'd be pretty much setup at this point for most things youd need to build / repair. Table saw doubles as a work bench / make a side wing for the router

 

[Firebrick43]

If I was to setup, here's what I would have.

Track saw
Miter saw
A corded drill
Impact drill
2', 4' and 8' level
quick clamps
Oscillating tool
A portable drill stand
Saber saw
I quality block plane. I prefer long angle.
hole pocket jig

Of course the usual assortment of hand tools.

I just finished my bathroom cabinets. I could have done all the sheet break down and cut it all to size with the track saw.
I broke down the sheets with my framing saw and sized most everything with my table saw.

That's just my 2 cents.

I think this is a decent list, I would have no need to any thing longer than a 6' level. Well maybe I should say no to the 8' and would include a roll of string, a string level, and a plum bob.

If you are not using/doing crown molding, the track saw with a track mounted protractor could eliminate the need the miter saw. Coping corners is much better looking than miters anyways, in that case a nice knew concepts coping saw would be the berries.

Also the saber/jig saw could be substituted by a cordless power hackzall. They make jig style blades and while not as good for actual jig saw work its acceptable but its much handier for cutting all kinds of pipes, redi-rod, conduit, long nails, or limited general demo work. So it could substitute for a Sawzall as well.

Also while I think an oscillating tool is extremely useful sometimes, i find using a Japanese pull saw many times a better solution and use it very sparingly now.

 

[Ryan]

Cut everything slightly oversize using the circular saw with the plywood laying on the insulation using the level as a straight edge then trim square on the table saw. Depending how deep the cabinets are/how wide the doors you may need a sliding Mitre saw

This is something I've been thinking about... I'd prefer to have both a track saw and a table saw, but given my restraints (its hard to find someone willing to ship a 55" track to kauai) and the fact that a table saw is far more versatile, this might be the way to go... I've never worked with one of those contractor portable table saws, but... they are cheap and....

 

[dfiler2]

The track saw is a must and for cabinet building I would want a decent sliding miter saw with a stand and a measuring system of some type. I set up one of these Kreg systems and it is really helpful. There are so many repeatable cuts on cabinets, like the styles and face boards, making sure they are all the exact same length is easy with one of these.

Kreg Measuring System

 

[Mandres]

Not to hijack the thread, but what can a tracksaw do that a circ saw and a straight board can't? Why is it worth $300+? I see a lot of guys really like them, what am I missing?

 

[Ryan]

Not to hijack the thread, but what can a tracksaw do that a circ saw and a straight board can't? Why is it worth $300+? I see a lot of guys really like them, what am I missing?

It's just more accurate, comfortable, versatile and safer... You wouldn't think there would be that much of a difference until you use one. My BF/MFT has become the most important tool in my shop (for woodworking) and it's based around a track saw...

 

[signcrafter]

I didn't read all the replies but I did do a google search for Kauai hardware stores and Kauai building supply and a bunch of ace hardware and other building supply stores came up. So you may have more options then just home depot. Most building supply stores carry tools also, although usually a little higher prices. There is also this place I found googling, https://toolmasterhawaii.com/. Hopefully these links will work, you will have to change your location to Kauai home depot. Links will pop up at wherever you normally have set for your home depot location.

What type of cabinets are you building? Face frame or frameless? What are you doing for doors and drawers? This will change what tools you will need/want. I do face frame when I do cabinets, not a fan of frameless personally.

A track saw will do wonders for kitchen cabinets, that would be number one on my list no matter what. I just did a little searching at the home depot in Lihue Kauai and they don't have any track saws in stock. Then I started clicking on the ones that say they will ship to that store and it turns out your options are next to none. There was one track saw, https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-10-...idewinder-Circular-Track-Saw-CT1065/310735605, that they would ship to the store there, it's compatible with makita tracks. But all the makita compatible tracks said no shipping to hawaii. But there was one track that they would ship to store or home, but that was a dewalt compatible track, https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTE...atible-with-DeWalt-Track-Saws-71505/313524269. So unless there is more options I didn't find, you can't buy a track saw setup over there. If this is the case I would look into shipping your own, either ship the saw yourself and order the tracks from home depot. Or ship the tracks yourself and buy the saw there.

How does amazon work for shipping to Hawaii? Might be an option to buy from amazon and have it shipped to hawaii if there shipping to there is cost effective.

For face frame cabinets I like to cut the rails and stiles with a miter saw, they have a handful in stock there and can pick up a ryobi for 140 bucks, https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-P...,1703?storeSelection=1705,1706,1702,1701,1703. I would probably upgrade the blade. I would rather have a decent saw with a great blade then a great saw with a decent blade.

Then I usually use a kreg jig for gluing everything up. They have those in stock there, https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-P...,1703?storeSelection=1705,1706,1702,1701,1703.

If you want to get fancy you can do rabbits and dados for the cabinet joinery. I would usually do this on my table saw but that would add another expensive tool and dado blade set to your budget. You could do that or you could get a router and a few bits(check that they have a good selection of bits or have them shipped there) to do the dados and rabbits. You will also need a guide for that.

That should cover the basics of the carcasses of the cabinets. Now for the doors and drawers, this will depend on what your plans are. For the drawers I usually do rabbits, I don't have a dovetail jig and just never felt I needed to step up to that level(maybe someday). I wouldn't use a router freehand to do rabbit joints on short pieces like that. Might be doable but would get some snipe or chipping, I would want a router table. They have a cheaper one but not sure what all you would use it for, https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Universal-Router-Table-A25RT03/300234859. And at that point a table saw might be a more versatile tool to get. I also do a dado on the drawer to accept the bottom, this can be done with router or table saw.

The doors will be a little more tricky, depending on your design. You can do a simple sheet of plywood with a routed edge profile. Or do a raised panel but that will add more specialty tools. Then you have hinges, simple exposed hinges or concealed hinges.

What are you doing for counter tops?

What kind of timeline are you going to have? As in if you need a special screw or fastener or tool or bit and home depot or the hardware store doesn't have it are you there long enough to wait for one to be delivered?

Sounds like it's going to be a fun time.

 

[Ryan]

I didn't read all the replies but I did do a google search for Kauai hardware stores and Kauai building supply and a bunch of ace hardware and other building supply stores came up. So you may have more options then just home depot. Most building supply stores carry tools also, although usually a little higher prices. There is also this place I found googling, https://toolmasterhawaii.com/. Hopefully these links will work, you will have to change your location to Kauai home depot. Links will pop up at wherever you normally have set for your home depot location.

What type of cabinets are you building? Face frame or frameless? What are you doing for doors and drawers? This will change what tools you will need/want. I do face frame when I do cabinets, not a fan of frameless personally.

A track saw will do wonders for kitchen cabinets, that would be number one on my list no matter what. I just did a little searching at the home depot in Lihue Kauai and they don't have any track saws in stock. Then I started clicking on the ones that say they will ship to that store and it turns out your options are next to none. There was one track saw, https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-10-...idewinder-Circular-Track-Saw-CT1065/310735605, that they would ship to the store there, it's compatible with makita tracks. But all the makita compatible tracks said no shipping to hawaii. But there was one track that they would ship to store or home, but that was a dewalt compatible track, https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTE...atible-with-DeWalt-Track-Saws-71505/313524269. So unless there is more options I didn't find, you can't buy a track saw setup over there. If this is the case I would look into shipping your own, either ship the saw yourself and order the tracks from home depot. Or ship the tracks yourself and buy the saw there.

How does amazon work for shipping to Hawaii? Might be an option to buy from amazon and have it shipped to hawaii if there shipping to there is cost effective.

For face frame cabinets I like to cut the rails and stiles with a miter saw, they have a handful in stock there and can pick up a ryobi for 140 bucks, https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-P...,1703?storeSelection=1705,1706,1702,1701,1703. I would probably upgrade the blade. I would rather have a decent saw with a great blade then a great saw with a decent blade.

Then I usually use a kreg jig for gluing everything up. They have those in stock there, https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-P...,1703?storeSelection=1705,1706,1702,1701,1703.

If you want to get fancy you can do rabbits and dados for the cabinet joinery. I would usually do this on my table saw but that would add another expensive tool and dado blade set to your budget. You could do that or you could get a router and a few bits(check that they have a good selection of bits or have them shipped there) to do the dados and rabbits. You will also need a guide for that.

That should cover the basics of the carcasses of the cabinets. Now for the doors and drawers, this will depend on what your plans are. For the drawers I usually do rabbits, I don't have a dovetail jig and just never felt I needed to step up to that level(maybe someday). I wouldn't use a router freehand to do rabbit joints on short pieces like that. Might be doable but would get some snipe or chipping, I would want a router table. They have a cheaper one but not sure what all you would use it for, https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Universal-Router-Table-A25RT03/300234859. And at that point a table saw might be a more versatile tool to get. I also do a dado on the drawer to accept the bottom, this can be done with router or table saw.

The doors will be a little more tricky, depending on your design. You can do a simple sheet of plywood with a routed edge profile. Or do a raised panel but that will add more specialty tools. Then you have hinges, simple exposed hinges or concealed hinges.

What are you doing for counter tops?

What kind of timeline are you going to have? As in if you need a special screw or fastener or tool or bit and home depot or the hardware store doesn't have it are you there long enough to wait for one to be delivered?

Sounds like it's going to be a fun time.

Man… too kind of you to do all that… I’ve done those same searches.

I think on the track saw, I can do Amazon… the 55” tracks might be tougher though.

 

[Strouty]

My friend has his Grandfather's old Sears and Roebuck house, it has his name stamped in every board and beam from what he told me. When I was in fourth grade, one of my favorite books at the library was the reproduction S&R catalog. They sold everything, it was just plain awesome.

 

[IndyGarage]

I rebuilt my first house with a power miter saw - not compound or sliding, a circular saw, a drill, level and a selection of hand saws. I would think with modern tools it would be much faster and easier.

I like Tyyost's list above, plus an impact driver.

Personally I would look for used tools before I bought new. There has to be a pawnshop on the island.

One other tool for remodeling that is sort of a necessary luxury for me in home repair is a cordless caulk gun. I can't tell you how much I like that thing.

 

[Max]

I have a old Unisaw and it’s the queen of my shop. If my shop burned down it’s the first stationary tool I’d replace. But without a sliding table, there are cuts on a 4x8 sheet of plywood that are really tough to do on it. (And if you have a small table on your TS the types of cuts that are hard to do increases...). So for years I’ve done most of my cuts with the Unisaw and when needed used a circ. saw and rail. I just recently bought a TS 55 but have not used it yet as I am getting ready for a lot of travel shortly. Which is frustrating but that is life.

Tyrost has a really good list and it’s where I’d start. We’ve already probably broken your budget, but I’d add a router as well that works with your tracks. A router can do a lot of tricks with the right bits and jigs, including pretending it is a saw. (Need a 24“ circle? Your router can cut one.) And if over time you have to do a lot of ripping (face frames, making your own molding, etc.) then I’d add a small table saw.

Instead of a small TS you could instead go to a small band saw which would add its own set of pluses and minuses. It’s really a function of what you want to do, and how well/easily you want to do so.

 

[Davefr]

You can do some quality work with an aluminum Swanson 12" speed square, a 98" saw guide, a few clamps and a quality circular saw + blade. Setup won't be as efficient as a full cabinet shop but will get the job done. You'll also need an impact driver, 24"+ level and ideally a small compressor and a couple nail guns. Depending on the scope of the project a multi tool and router might be needed.

I think that brings you pretty close to your budget with some $'s for incidentals. (prices on the islands will be higher and availability of more specialized stuff might be iffy). This stuff is pretty generic and should be obtainable locally.

P.S. If there's a HD on the island see if they have a rental center. If they do, then they could have table saws, compound miter saws a compressors/nail guns and other tools.

 

[mike93lx]

it isn't ideal, but you can always use shorter track sections and join them together. a set of four 28-32" tracks would get everything done and can be easily aligned with a level.

i would want a track saw, for sure. mine is a cheap grizzly, but it is super useful

otherwise, an impact, a drill, RO sander, 1/4" trim router and an assortment of hand tools (speed square, laser measuerer, tape measure, scribe, chisels, etc)

 

[orangeblood]

great coaching from many members.

I'd only add two things: a cheap pocket square and pocket level. the kinds found close to the check out counter for less than 5 bucks.

Sometimes you need a quick check of square or level without going back to your tools. Doesn't replace the need for proper squares and levels, rather something just good enough to give you and idea of a problem or eliminate / verify a suspicion based on sight alone.

Good luck, I'm curious to see the final $1000 list

 

[Adderall]

Sanders… I love the festool RoTex 150 cuz I can use it for typical Sanding and finish sanding… I’ve heard the Bosch alternative is just as good at half the price. I’ve been eyeing that for sure…

I just got the Bosch GET75-6N and it is a monster. I've been using it with the purple / violet inexpensive 6" pads from Amazon. It is a heavy, loud beast, but it does the jobs I need done extremely well. Dust collection with a big Ridgid using a generic dust deputy is great as well.

 

[jonshonda]

It will be interesting to hear what you think about the Sears house. My wife's grandparents house was a sears they ordered for $13k. It had partical board interior walls which I thought was odd.

Tools would be hammers, pry bars, screw drivers, squares, tape measure, pencils, drill/driver and bits, miter saw, saw horses, extension cords, headlamp or flashlight, (do you need nailer guns for trim?), some clamps, shims, etc.

I have always found it to be amazing the tools I use for certain jobs.

 

[Ryan]

It will be interesting to hear what you think about the Sears house. My wife's grandparents house was a sears they ordered for $13k. It had partical board interior walls which I thought was odd.

Tools would be hammers, pry bars, screw drivers, squares, tape measure, pencils, drill/driver and bits, miter saw, saw horses, extension cords, headlamp or flashlight, (do you need nailer guns for trim?), some clamps, shims, etc.

I have always found it to be amazing the tools I use for certain jobs.

My house is single wall construction… solid redwood…. So no studs, drywall, siding, or anything else… just solid redwood. It’s pretty rad.

 

[eejack]

Maybe I am looking at it a bit different...

I would put my money into a good skil saw ( circular saw ) and miter saw and a variety of blades. Sure, the first task is cabinets but having flipped more than a couple of homes most of the repair work and modifications of a home are not based around sheet goods, but around construction lumber and trim style cuts.

It might be easier to build a cabinet with a track saw, but it is neigh on useless when it comes to reframing a wall, or replacing/repairing trim. You can build cabinets without a track saw.

Fill the rest of the list out with things like quality squares, good pry bars, a comfortable hammer, a good drill/impact combo with a variety of bits. If you can get a good 'kit' with a sawzall and a multitool, all the better. A good japanese hand saw can save the day.

A basic electrical setup, lineman pliers, a trustworthy tester, strippers would be prudent.

Something to cut metal, tin snips at a minimum.

Quick clamps so that you don't have to bug folks to hold things.

Build a set of cabinet saw horses day one, get a good straight edge and measuring devices and enjoy!