To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

1000 Sq Ft Detached 3 Stall with Attic - Looking For Design Ideas

Super Sport

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2011
Messages
4,081
Location
West Michigan
Hi everyone!

I'm in the initial stages of designing a detached 3 stall garage with attic. Township regulations limit me to stick built, 1000' sq ft max footprint, and 24' in height. This will be in addition to a fairly small attached two stall in a 30 year old middle class neighborhood. Lot is .71 acre, 100' wide and 320' deep. I do have an HOA, but after they lost a lawsuit over an outbuilding a couple years ago they've been very lenient and may even disband the HOA entirely. As long as I don't need a variance, I think they'll approve the design.

I want one stall to have a 2 post lift with scissor trusses - this will be the workshop. The other two stalls are for vehicle storage and will have 10-11' ceilings (to accommodate a possible 4 post storage lift) with the attic above. I'll finish out the interior and landscaping later to save on costs - all insulation, electrical, plumbing, etc I will do myself. Hoping to have the garage built and driveway poured for under $70k, but we'll see!

I've attached a general design I found online that I've modified with my very limited MS Paint skills, but it's not entirely to scale. I think this exterior design works well with the house and allows me to have sufficient square footage on both levels. Two layers of block, 10' walls, and a 10/12 pitch roof should get me good ceiling heights and squeak under the 24' requirement.

Let me know your opinions and suggestions! I want to have a pretty well thought out design before I hire an architect to draw it up.

attachment.php


attachment.php


attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • Potential Floorplan Edit.jpg
    Potential Floorplan Edit.jpg
    21.2 KB · Views: 325
  • 13171546485fa2c48ec392c.jpg
    13171546485fa2c48ec392c.jpg
    96.5 KB · Views: 322
  • Survey.jpg
    Survey.jpg
    21.5 KB · Views: 343
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
S

Super Sport

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2011
Messages
4,081
Location
West Michigan
This was the original design I considered due to it's simplicity (and thus, lower cost). I just don't like the exterior design as much, and the dormers of the other design allow for more room upstairs.

I got a rough ballpark quote of $55k from a local builder on this one which would fall in budget. I don't know how much the other design will add in cost.
 

Attachments

  • Cape Cod Ext.jpg
    Cape Cod Ext.jpg
    24.2 KB · Views: 45
  • Cape Cod Main.jpg
    Cape Cod Main.jpg
    30.5 KB · Views: 53
  • Cape Cod Side.jpg
    Cape Cod Side.jpg
    40.9 KB · Views: 55

Jayman17

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2017
Messages
3,842
Location
Seattle, Wa
I like the design of the one in your first post better. I think the exterior looks more interesting than the second post. Good luck!

Jay
 

Stuart in MN

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
23,399
Location
Minneapolis
My garage is pretty similar to the second design, it works for me. I suspect the first design will be considerably more expensive due to the added complexity.
 
OP
S

Super Sport

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2011
Messages
4,081
Location
West Michigan
Is that cost estimate from before the lumber price explosion or is it recent (within the last month)?

Within the last month from a reputable area builder. I was a bit surprised, I was expecting closer to $70k before concrete and other costs. I'll easily add another $10k in upgrades I'm sure.

This was his response:
24" deep footings, cement block foundation, concrete floor, (no approach) Vinyl siding, asphalt shingles, 3 standard roll up garage doors, 5 vinyl windows, one man door, attic trusses with floor, and stairway with railings.
Items not included: Electrical, Landscaping, driveway, interior finishing, fill sand (if needed) Variance (if needed)
 
OP
S

Super Sport

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2011
Messages
4,081
Location
West Michigan
My garage is pretty similar to the second design, it works for me. I suspect the first design will be considerably more expensive due to the added complexity.

That's what I'm worried about. I'm not sure how much it's going to cost for the changes in truss/rafter design. Not to mention that I'll need plans drawn up.

I'd be ok with an additional $10k or so, but only if I can keep other costs in check.
 

dcg9381

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2018
Messages
12,035
Location
Austin, TX
That's what I'm worried about. I'm not sure how much it's going to cost for the changes in truss/rafter design. Not to mention that I'll need plans drawn up.

Many builders work with lumber suppliers that do truss engineering "for free" (or at very low cost) if you'll commit to their lumber package.
 

hilld

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2010
Messages
867
Location
Vancouver, WA & San Juan Island, WA
Within the last month from a reputable area builder. I was a bit surprised, I was expecting closer to $70k before concrete and other costs. I'll easily add another $10k in upgrades I'm sure.

This was his response:
24" deep footings, cement block foundation, concrete floor, (no approach) Vinyl siding, asphalt shingles, 3 standard roll up garage doors, 5 vinyl windows, one man door, attic trusses with floor, and stairway with railings.
Items not included: Electrical, Landscaping, driveway, interior finishing, fill sand (if needed) Variance (if needed)

Not too terrible, but electric can add $10k to the price, depending on what code your area has adopted. We are under NEC 2020 and breakers cost $100 now for the 2pole GFCI for everything and the combo AF and GF breakers for the rest. Ouch. Also, not sure how much an upgrade from vinyl siding to something like Hardi Plank would cost, but a much nicer product. In any case, the design looks nice, perhaps, you should rent out the upstairs and make some money, but might have to move the stairs to the outside.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

CraigStu

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
4,086
Location
Blacksburg, Va
I like the 1st one better but all that exterior interest is expensive. I don't know enough about framing but I think that huge dormer will be very expensive to build so that you have all that floor space completely open. I am not a fan of the left bay being 2 ft shorter. W/o that dormer it's just a series of trusses that would go up in a 1/2 day. I also don't like that wall separating the left hand bay on the ground floor at all. The original design (post 2) will be quick to build. A bunch of standard trusses and then a few scissor trusses and done. I guess next step is a quote for your post#1 design.
 

ace10

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2017
Messages
1,490
Location
Rural NoVA
First design looks nice.
DO NOT go with anything under 12' if you intend to stack vehicles.

Can't imagine that costing $70K all-in. Looks like 150-200 in my area. Concrete alone would eat up a big chunk of your number.
 
OP
S

Super Sport

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2011
Messages
4,081
Location
West Michigan
Thanks for all the replies! To respond to a few of them:

Not too terrible, but electric can add $10k to the price, depending on what code your area has adopted. We are under NEC 2020 and breakers cost $100 now for the 2pole GFCI for everything and the combo AF and GF breakers for the rest. Ouch. Also, not sure how much an upgrade from vinyl siding to something like Hardi Plank would cost, but a much nicer product. In any case, the design looks nice, perhaps, you should rent out the upstairs and make some money, but might have to move the stairs to the outside.

Hardi plank is nice and what I'd prefer, but I don't think it's going to be in the budget. Trying to decide if I want to match the vinyl on the house or do something different and then reside the house. A few houses in the neighborhood have recently been resided and they look a lot nicer, but ours doesn't look terrible.

You are not getting either of those garages built for $55K.

That may be, but that's why I'm trying to figure out a design and then get a better quote. The $55k was a from a highly recommended, long-time area builder. He may be off, who knows.

I like the 1st one better but all that exterior interest is expensive. I don't know enough about framing but I think that huge dormer will be very expensive to build so that you have all that floor space completely open. I am not a fan of the left bay being 2 ft shorter. W/o that dormer it's just a series of trusses that would go up in a 1/2 day. I also don't like that wall separating the left hand bay on the ground floor at all. The original design (post 2) will be quick to build. A bunch of standard trusses and then a few scissor trusses and done. I guess next step is a quote for your post#1 design.

This is the type of input I was looking for! I don't like the idea of the shorter bay, but it helps exterior aesthetics. I may see if I can change that out, since more room is always better. The wall dividing the two spaces is something I think I want since they'll be used for different purposes. It should help with dust control as well as heating/cooling.

First design looks nice.
DO NOT go with anything under 12' if you intend to stack vehicles.

Can't imagine that costing $70K all-in. Looks like 150-200 in my area. Concrete alone would eat up a big chunk of your number.

If it ends up over $90k I'll scrap the loft idea and maybe even DIY it. I can buy a decent small house here with a pole barn for $150k or so, so $100k for an unfinished garage is out of the question.
 

dcg9381

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2018
Messages
12,035
Location
Austin, TX
You are not getting either of those garages built for $55K.

I tend to be skeptical too, but he's building shell only... Even then, I'd take that price all day long. I can't get it done in Texas for that much.. And MI is usually a lot more expensive for labor.
 
Last edited:

CombatNinja

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 24, 2013
Messages
1,456
Yeah man. If I could get that built for even $70K, I'd have them start tomorrow. I don't live in a particularly expensive area and that is a $85,000 garage all day long. And that is assuming a total shell. Zero finishing/insulation at that number. Materials are just too expensive nowadays.
 

thammel

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,260
Location
Maryland
I know you are limited to 1000 ft^2, but you might regret the 26' and 24' depth if you are going to add cabinets and/or do much work in the garage. Mine is 28' deep and I wish it were deeper.
 

Glemon

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 29, 2020
Messages
2,246
Location
NE
Depth depends on the type of vehicles you have, I have 21' due to setbacks, wish I had more, but have no big vehicles and don't plan on getting any so it works.

I have a similar set up with one stall separated for a shop, and two stalls for regular car parking. If I had to do it over I probably would have made the 2 stall 22' wide instead of 24' as there as basically dead space between the cars and more than enough room to avoid door dings. That would give more room in the shop where you are working on projects.
 

BombShelter

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2015
Messages
563
Location
State of Hockey
I always like to use Menards to figure out a baseline cost, here's a similar garage kit for $32,000.

The amount of concrete will have a big effect on the bottom line, I'm ballparking around $17,000 for 5" of garage flooring only, no apron or frost footings. If you have plumbing going to building, check the local codes, you may need 42" frost footings which will really jack up that cost.

My cost is right at $50,000 before labor, I've seen two guys crank out a garage in a day and a half so maybe it's doable.

One other thing you might want to consider, I think most Michigan Cities want a home on the lot in a residential neighborhood. You can't just plop down a garage in the middle of a housing development. Typically a home over garage is also frowned on but if they allow it, I have a feeling they're going to want frost footings.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom