100w LED flood light

[ADSR]

Bought one of these to test out how good they are. Sure is going to be cheaper to run this vs. a 500w halogen. At 59 bucks, i thought why not.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/38098474014...49&var=650313154078&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[WhiffySpark]

Not sure about that one but the blue point flood light is badass. If only it was magnetic lol

 

[rlitman]

I just bought a 100W LED module (same emitter as is in there) for $4.08 shipped from China. It takes 36V in, so I was planning on powering it off a pair of M18 batteries in series. I've got a CPU heatsink that should be perfect for it, but I'm not yet sure how I'll use the 36V to run a fan on it.

Don't feel bad. The power supply and fixture is easily the biggest expense compared to the LED module itself. I just figured that for 4 bucks, even if I blow mine up, it's worth it for the entertainment value (and the fact that I'm not making a dust/water resistant fixture makes it pretty inconvenient too).

I'd expect it to be visibly brighter than my M18 floodlight, but I suspect that the light quality will not be nearly as good (perhaps not good enough for painting for example).

 

[ADSR]

I just bought a 100W LED module (same emitter as is in there) for $4.08 shipped from China. It takes 36V in, so I was planning on powering it off a pair of M18 batteries in series. I've got a CPU heatsink that should be perfect for it, but I'm not yet sure how I'll use the 36V to run a fan on it.

Don't feel bad. The power supply and fixture is easily the biggest expense compared to the LED module itself. I just figured that for 4 bucks, even if I blow mine up, it's worth it for the entertainment value (and the fact that I'm not making a dust/water resistant fixture makes it pretty inconvenient too).

I'd expect it to be visibly brighter than my M18 floodlight, but I suspect that the light quality will not be nearly as good (perhaps not good enough for painting for example).

When you build it, please post a thread. I'd love to build a light bar full of those 5 buck LED's

 

[rlitman]

When you build it, please post a thread. I'd love to build a light bar full of those 5 buck LED's

I hadn't considered it, but now that you mention it, I guess it's not a half bad idea. I'm not sure how you'd make a lightbar out of it though. The heat output is pretty bad. Maybe with liquid cooling. Perhaps you could plumb it right to the vehicle's radiator. With 100C coolant though, I'm not sure you could keep the junction below 120C safely.

 

[cybrdyke]

I just bought a 100W LED module (same emitter as is in there) for $4.08 shipped from China. It takes 36V in, so I was planning on powering it off a pair of M18 batteries in series. I've got a CPU heatsink that should be perfect for it, but I'm not yet sure how I'll use the 36V to run a fan on it.

How are you going to drive the appropriate current to the module?
CD

 

[ADSR]

I hadn't considered it, but now that you mention it, I guess it's not a half bad idea. I'm not sure how you'd make a lightbar out of it though. The heat output is pretty bad. Maybe with liquid cooling. Perhaps you could plumb it right to the vehicle's radiator. With 100C coolant though, I'm not sure you could keep the junction below 120C safely.

How do the big boy light bars work? They have some 50" 300w versions in extruded aluminum tubes.

 

[Slowgsr]

I installed 6, 145w led floodlights on a building recently to illuminate the parking area. They were extremely high quality ($450/ea) my cost.

Needless to say the customer was extremely happy

 

[rlitman]

How are you going to drive the appropriate current to the module?
CD

I was pondering that myself and was planning on working it out after it arrives in the mail. My guess is that the internal resistance of the batteries will be high enough to keep the current within spec. But I was considering driving it with a PWM dimmer watching the current on my DMM as I crank it up to see if this is actually possible, rather than chancing tossing my 4 bucks right out the window in a glorious puff of smoke (though as I said above, that would still be worth $4 in entertainment value).

How do the big boy light bars work? They have some 50" 300w versions in extruded aluminum tubes.

Better LED modules than my $4 one with higher lumens/watt ratio, so less heat output? Quality engineering, and custom heat sinking? I wonder the same thing myself, but if I had an answer, I'd be selling them myself.

 

[cybrdyke]

I was pondering that myself and was planning on working it out after it arrives in the mail. My guess is that the internal resistance of the batteries will be high enough to keep the current within spec. But I was considering driving it with a PWM dimmer watching the current on my DMM as I crank it up to see if this is actually possible, rather than chancing tossing my 4 bucks right out the window in a glorious puff of smoke (though as I said above, that would still be worth $4 in entertainment value).

I was kinda thinking that the current might be too low, but I dont know enough about batteries/current to know for sure (or what the spec is for your module). I'm also thinking it should run your battery down pretty quick...
Let us know how it goes....
CD

 

[R.Anderson]

Four work lights I made three years ago for my trailer contain two 10w led modules each, that puts out a good amount of light straight off the 12v battery with one power switch and another to select high or low (one led or both in the lights) I didn't bother building a driver, I am seeing how long they last without voltage or current limiting. Have not burned one out yet, but the heat sinks are large and guessing I put on about 40 hours on em so far.

If you power em up on the bench and place a piece of paper on one see what happens The 10w led modules I picked up for my lights put out enough heat to burn holes in paper. Not having heat sinks on em might of affected this tho.

If you stick within voltage rating and mount em to a heat sink the LEDs won't burnout instantly unless they are ****. I never burn one out yet with over current they just get hotter, it most likely will effect the overall life of em though.

If you are looking for LEDs for truck or car the 18w ones on ebay are well built for the price.
bought ten of em for under 95 bucks total got on sale along with a ebay promotion. Mounting 6 of em on my truck two on the front, on the topper one on each side and two for the rear. The bolts and screws that came with em were stainless steel and the housing and bracket is aluminum, only plastic is the acrylic light cover also the hex cap screws were stainless too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301014885956?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[rlitman]

I was kinda thinking that the current might be too low, but I dont know enough about batteries/current to know for sure (or what the spec is for your module). I'm also thinking it should run your battery down pretty quick...
Let us know how it goes....
CD

It might be too low, but I don't think so. The Redlithium batteries I'm planning on using have overcurrent protection, and might just cut off the LED module, but based on the battery Wh capacity (I have 54 and 72 Wh M18 batteries), I'd expect roughly an hour of runtime on a 100W LED off a pair of batteries in series. And I've managed to draw down a battery under hard drilling in something like 20 minutes, so I know they're designed for at least 3x the current output I'll be putting through the LED, so the batteries should be GTG.
As for the LED module, well, that's to be determined, but I don't exactly have high hopes.

 

[ADSR]

This guy uses 18v batteries as well. take a look.

 

[MnemonicMonkey]

My guess is that the internal resistance of the batteries will be high enough to keep the current within spec.

Kinda. Really, it's the resistance of the LEDs that should keep you in spec. LEDs operate on a voltage/current curve. You'll usually find that the "rated" voltage is right before the current curves up and off the charts. They'll operate anywhere on that curve above the bias voltage, but the higher you go, the shorter the lifespan (as you alluded). And really, it's not so much of a current issue as it is a heat dissipation issue. Above a certain point, you'll also find you're drawing much more current with little additional light output.

In your case, when supplying the rated voltage from the batteries, the LEDs will only draw the proportional current. That's the beauty of having emitters rated at the same voltage as your batteries.

Edit for good link: http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode_8.html

Sent by my Trunk Monkey™

 

[ADSR]

check this combo. 100w driver and chip for under 10 bucks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-LED-CH...005&rk=2&rkt=6&mehot=es&sd=351374119874&rt=nc

 

[ADSR]

oops, it's not a BIN

 

[ADSR]

Got the light installed today.

It *****, but then again, it's only 100 watts. That's all. Wouldn't recommend.

 

[rice rocket]

Only 100W?

That should be about 10,000 lumens if the LEDs are worth a damn. Halogens are about 1/5th as efficient.

 

[ADSR]

Only 100W?

That should be about 10,000 lumens if the LEDs are worth a damn. Halogens are about 1/5th as efficient.

8500. The 500 watt halogen was rated at 11000. I guess the 2500 extra lumens really make a difference.

The 100w led is good enough for the dogs to see to piss.