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10x36 Pole Building Loft Plan

robertrov

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Nov 19, 2012
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31
I have a 30x48x14 pole building with bare walls (uninsulated walls) that I want to add a 10x36 loft to stuck in one corner and along the back wall and 9 ft high. My plan is to have a front support beam to the floor about every 12 feet. The back anchored to the large vertical beams that are part of the building. Also a set of steps on the one side to get up and down. My question is; Will 2x6s running front to back spaced 2 ft apart be sufficient for joists or will I need I-Joists? I plan to cover the top with plywood (thicker than osb). I will be storing mostly lighter weight stuff up there but I have alot of stuff to store so the loft will be almost full. See the 1st attached pic for a similar idea to what I'm talking about. Cheers :beer:
 

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dfiler2

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2x6 can only span 8' if placed every 16". I would go with 9.5" I-Joists, if you bought 20' and cut in half it would be about $250. I would then use 3/4" T&G OSB flooring. I would not be a fan of having them 24" OC, however, the manufacturer says you can span 14' on 24" OC with 3/4 OSB if the floor is glued and nailed.
 
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robertrov

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Nov 19, 2012
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I wondered, because I've seen a bunch of pics like the one attached to my original post which are similar dimensions to my plan. I think if I were storing engines or something up there or having people up there for a hang out area then maybe I joists would be a must. Moving the beams front to back closer together is no biggie. I threw out 24" as a guestimate for spacing. And I suppose I could always add more braces to the floor in the future if needed, correct?
 
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larry_g

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oregon
I have a 30x48x14 pole building with bare walls (uninsulated walls) that I want to add a 10x36 loft to stuck in one corner and along the back wall and 9 ft high. My plan is to have a front support beam to the floor about every 12 feet. The back anchored to the large vertical beams that are part of the building. Also a set of steps on the one side to get up and down. My question is; Will 2x6s running front to back spaced 2 ft apart be sufficient for joists or will I need I-Joists? I plan to cover the top with plywood (thicker than osb). I will be storing mostly lighter weight stuff up there but I have alot of stuff to store so the loft will be almost full. See the 1st attached pic for a similar idea to what I'm talking about. Cheers :beer:

Since you've pictured my build I can tell you that I used 2x10 joists on a 2' center and if I remember right is is good for 30 or 40 psf. Both on my shops have the same mez and one is better than 25 years old and still up there.

I would not consider a 2x6 strong enough, but I have not checked the charts.

lg
no neat sig line
 

rancherbill

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Oct 18, 2007
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Foothills County, Alberta, Canada
Do you have a loft rancherbill?

No.

I have built a number of decks and a house. In the course of planning the floors I looked at lots and walked on them. There are the engineering specs and then there are the intangible 'feel' specs.

I have never seen 24" spacing.

The decks that use 2x6 wiggle and jiggle and have a cheap flimsy feeling.

I wouldn't add stuff after, I'd do it right the first time. Upgrading the qty and dimension of the joist is small dollars. (36' @ 24"oc = 19 2x6 vs 36' @16" oc = 28 2x8) I haven't bought lumber in a long time and I'm haveing a brain fart about what the real number are but using $4 for a 2x6 and $6 for a 2x6 the added cost is $92. Spend the money now instead of dicking around later.

You'll use the area more if it doesn't feel like it's going to fall down when you're up there.
 

bczygan

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Nov 4, 2009
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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
I have a 30x48x14 pole building with bare walls (uninsulated walls) that I want to add a 10x36 loft to stuck in one corner and along the back wall and 9 ft high. My plan is to have a front support beam to the floor about every 12 feet. The back anchored to the large vertical beams that are part of the building. Also a set of steps on the one side to get up and down. My question is; Will 2x6s running front to back spaced 2 ft apart be sufficient for joists or will I need I-Joists? I plan to cover the top with plywood (thicker than osb). I will be storing mostly lighter weight stuff up there but I have alot of stuff to store so the loft will be almost full. See the 1st attached pic for a similar idea to what I'm talking about. Cheers :beer:

Lets get some terms straight first.

Vertical members are called columns. The horizontal members are beams and joists span between them.

Next, let's set the live and dead loads. Dead loads are the structure. Live loads are the things you place on the structure.

Typical residential live floor loads are 40#/SF of uniform load for decks, stairs and living areas. You can set this value to anything you want, but this is a good starting point. Let's figure a 50#/SF live load because you will use it for storage and a 15#/SF dead load for the structure weight. This is the combination of the beams and joists and floor sheathing. By the way, use 3/4" T&G plywood floor deck with staggered joints, glued and screwed. And hang your joists from the beams with joist hangers and the proper fasteners.

Now, using a joist calculator like this one, let's size the joists.
http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/spancalc

Let's try 2x8's at 16"o.c. and use a typically available wood species like SPF #2 and better. If you have no finished drywall ceiling below, you can use a deflection limit of L/240. Using the calculator, this will span 11'-1". So it is adequate.

Then the beams. LVL's are what I use for these applications because they will have the least depth, to allow you to maximize headroom both above and below the mezzanine.I will assume that you will have columns to support the beams every 12' for the beams at both the front and back of the mezzanine.
Using this beam table we need to know the load per lineal foot on each beam. The contributing area is 5'x1'x65#/SF. This equals 350#/LF of load on each of the beams.

We need then to decide on the strength of LVL to use. A 1.9E is readily available, so lets use that table.

http://parr.com/PDFs/LP%20LVL%201.9E.pdf

From the table, a 1 3/4x 7 1/4 at L/240 and spanning 12', will support 177#/LF. So doubling these will be adequate. If you prefer to space your columns further apart, say 18', you will need deeper members for your beams. In this case, a pair of 11 1/4" deep LVL's for each beam.

Understand?

Now go price your materials and build it. Show us lots of photos.

Bill
 
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