110v door jam switch

[LSU]

I need to replace the overhead lights in my clothes‘ closet.

I‘m going to install some 48” LED lights.

My old (30+ years) overhead lights are the old style - 4 tube 48” fluorescent lights. This old fixture had an old fashion pull cord switch. (And no - I do not want to take the ballast out and rewire the lights. - I want a new fixture).

On my new model I’d like to install a door jamb switch that will activate the light when the door is opened. I don’t want to use a motion detector switch.

The door frame is wooden and painted. On the inside of the closet I’m going to remove the door casing trim to access the wooden (door jam part - the thing in which the door hinges are screwed) and I’m looking for a switch to mount.

ideally a small push button type. Maybe something I could drill a 1” hole.

I‘m trying to remove as little wood as possible And bust up as little pain as possible.

Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.

Thank you.

 

[Gozo]

The thought of running 115ac through a door jam switch frightens me.
I did do something similar. Take my experience and do what you may with it.
I used a lever action microswitch powered by a doorbell transformer to activate a solid state switch/optocoupler and that would switch the 115. The coupler is 100% isolated input and output. More parts, but much better safety.
Could also use a relay similarly. I didn’t want the “clicking” with on and off.

 

[mogandave]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YTC8VYH/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[mogandave]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09F8LH6VY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[LSU]

MD - thank you.

 

[LSU]

The thought of running 115ac through a door jam switch frightens me.
I did do something similar. Take my experience and do what you may with it.
I used a lever action microswitch powered by a doorbell transformer to activate a solid state switch/optocoupler and that would switch the 115. The coupler is 100% isolated input and output. More parts, but much better safety.
Could also use a relay similarly. I didn’t want the “clicking” with on and off.

Thanks but I didn’t take shop in high school and you’ve lost me.

Would you please explain a bit more. Thanks.

 

[Gozo]

How’d you finish high school without taking shop. That was the most practical course. And you got to play with tools.
Basically, the low voltage from the transformer gets switched by the door jamb switch, turning on the input side of a solid state relay. All the line voltage stuff is isolated on the output side.
Like I said, just my musings of a way to get it done without AC line voltage loose in a door jamb.

 

[bonneyman]

It shouldn't be too hard to rig up a push button style switch shielded from any wood. Like something on a garage door opener that brings the light on when the door opens.

 

[mogandave]

Swing door or sliding?

 

[The Cobbler]

none of those switches installed in the door jamb would pass an electrical inspection.
sometimes when we want something , we over complicate the idea so much that it is crazy.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

The thought of running 115ac through a door jam switch frightens me.
I did do something similar. Take my experience and do what you may with it.
I used a lever action microswitch powered by a doorbell transformer to activate a solid state switch/optocoupler and that would switch the 115. The coupler is 100% isolated input and output. More parts, but much better safety.
Could also use a relay similarly. I didn’t want the “clicking” with on and off.

Yeah thats what i would do too

 

[wyliesdiesels]

none of those switches installed in the door jamb would pass an electrical inspection.
sometimes when we want something , we over complicate the idea so much that it is crazy.

Huh? Based on what code?

 

[LSU]

Swing door or sliding?

Swing

 

[jbfsr]

Every x-ray room I installed had a door switch. They all passed inspection.

 

[mogandave]

Assuming it swings out, I would just screw a block to the inside, middle, top of the jamb and use one of these:


I would not mess with drilling any big holes in the jamb or what-not.

Run some stick-on plastic trunking from the light to the switch for the wire and be done with it in 30 minutes.

 

[klassenl]

This is what has been commonly used. Yes it's 120v. It's fine if install correctly.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/leviton-momentary-door-switch/1000174875

The other option is some sort of occupancy sensor light.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09HMCS6X8/?tag=atomicindus04-20

 

[Norcal]

This is what has been commonly used. Yes it's 120v. It's fine if install correctly.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/leviton-momentary-door-switch/1000174875

Just don't attempt use 12 AWG wiring with it, and even more important, better have very sharp cutting tools to install it.

 

[rharman]

I have several of these (or similar) installed in my house.
Been in there for 30 years.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036ZA9F2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[infinkc]

something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KRN5T99/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Or a surface mount

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AX6OWZE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.betterswitch.com/resources/BS-200+Installation+cut+sheet+.pdf

Basically all you do is run the low voltage wires from the switch and mount the module at the light connection.

 

[Metal-Marc]

I have several of these (or similar) installed in my house.
Been in there for 30 years.

Tell me you don't read threads without telling me you don't read threads.

Post #16 just above yours suggested the same switch.

 

[mike93lx]

Tell me you don't read threads without telling me you don't read threads.

Post #16 just above yours suggested the same switch.

A US link is a lot more useful to the majority of folks here than a Canadian one

 

[Metal-Marc]

A US link is a lot more useful to the majority of folks here than a Canadian one

You're not wrong, but I'm still right.

 

[mike93lx]

You're not wrong, but I'm still right.

It'll be ok

 

[Metal-Marc]

It'll be ok

We're all gonna be ok.

 

[rharman]

Tell me you don't read threads without telling me you don't read threads.

Post #16 just above yours suggested the same switch.

Yeah, we crossed over. I'd had that tab open for a bit and his post wasn't showing.

Not the end of the world.... Chill.

 

[Metal-Marc]

Yeah, we crossed over. I'd had that tab open for a bit and his post wasn't showing.

Not the end of the world.... Chill.

 

[larry4406]

I used these jamb switches at my first house eons ago. Real PIA to mortise the stud and casing to fit the metal back box and brass trim.

This switch is easily 30 years old and still in box unused. I think I have 2.

 

[no704]

Should be low enough Amps to use a magnetic switch.

 

[Zeke]

As a carpenter and a door hanger/installer I can tell you that using one of those line voltage switches in a box is going to involve cutting the jamb, mortising the trimmer and doing quite a bit of drywall/plaster work. I think you said, "I‘m trying to remove as little wood as possible And bust up as little pain as possible."

That switch won't meet your desires. Go with the LV idea.

 

[Innovate1]

I have seen a number of hotel closets in foreign countries where they just hang a microswitch above the door on the door frame with the line voltage wires exposed. Not recommending that though...

I put a jamb switch in the front closet when we built this house. Readily available and meets code. But a lot of work to retrofit as others have pointed out.

 

[LSU]

Go with the LV idea.

Please explain. Thanks.

 

[LSU]

This switch is easily 30 years old and still in box unused. I think I have 2

And made in the USA

 

[Norcal]

I have seen a number of hotel closets in foreign countries where they just hang a microswitch above the door on the door frame with the line voltage wires exposed. Not recommending that though...

I put a jamb switch in the front closet when we built this house. Readily available and meets code. But a lot of work to retrofit as others have pointed out.

Can always use a limit switch, all industrial control manufacturers offer them but will not be much in the looks dept.

 

[Sumboodie]

How’d you finish high school without taking shop. That was the most practical course. And you got to play with tools.
Basically, the low voltage from the transformer gets switched by the door jamb switch, turning on the input side of a solid state relay. All the line voltage stuff is isolated on the output side.
Like I said, just my musings of a way to get it done without AC line voltage loose in a door jamb.

We weren’t allowed to take shop. That was for the "slow" group and certainly not the "advanced" group.

My brother, who is a few years younger had to petition to the school board to allow it. They pretty well were convinced he'd fail at life.

 

[nadogail]

Shop classes died when our culture decided that Everyone Needs To Go To College.

I did not begin my studies for my BS in Adult Vocational Education until I was 47, I got the BS, with honors, from SIU Carbondale in 2.5 years.

I was also working full time.

 

[adrenalinejeeper]

Here is what I learned in shop:

1. Install a magnetic sensor on the door, which sends a signal to a microcontroller when the door is opened.
2. Connect the microcontroller to a relay that controls the flow of electricity to the lightbulb.
3. Power the microcontroller using a battery or power supply.
4. Program the microcontroller to listen for the signal from the magnetic sensor.
5. When the microcontroller receives the signal from the magnetic sensor, it activates a timer function.
6. The timer function waits for a specific amount of time, say 30 seconds.
7. After the timer function has elapsed, the microcontroller triggers a solenoid valve that releases a small amount of water into a tube filled with salt.
8. The saltwater solution creates a chemical reaction that generates a small electrical charge, which is picked up by a piezoelectric sensor.
9. The piezoelectric sensor generates a small amount of electricity, which is stored in a capacitor.
10. The capacitor discharges through a high-voltage transformer, creating a spark that ignites a small amount of thermite powder.
11. The thermite powder produces a burst of intense heat, which melts a thin wire holding a small weight.
12. The weight falls, pulling on a string that releases a small ball bearing.
13. The ball bearing rolls down a ramp and strikes a small switch, completing the circuit and turning on the light.

A simpler solution would be to use a basic magnetic sensor and relay setup to turn on the light when the door is opened, without the need for any additional components or complicated chemical reactions.

 

[jdm5]

Somewhat related, why not consider a home automation solution? I used https://www.insteon.com/hidden-door-sensor for the door jamb switch (drill a 3/4" hole, jamb it in). Then link it to something on the light https://www.insteon.com/on-off-micro-module

(this is Insteon stuff which I am using, but they may not be best choice today as they went out then came back, but I'm sure ZWave options are available).

 

[infinkc]

Here is what I learned in shop:

1. Install a magnetic sensor on the door, which sends a signal to a microcontroller when the door is opened.
2. Connect the microcontroller to a relay that controls the flow of electricity to the lightbulb.
3. Power the microcontroller using a battery or power supply.
4. Program the microcontroller to listen for the signal from the magnetic sensor.
5. When the microcontroller receives the signal from the magnetic sensor, it activates a timer function.
6. The timer function waits for a specific amount of time, say 30 seconds.
7. After the timer function has elapsed, the microcontroller triggers a solenoid valve that releases a small amount of water into a tube filled with salt.
8. The saltwater solution creates a chemical reaction that generates a small electrical charge, which is picked up by a piezoelectric sensor.
9. The piezoelectric sensor generates a small amount of electricity, which is stored in a capacitor.
10. The capacitor discharges through a high-voltage transformer, creating a spark that ignites a small amount of thermite powder.
11. The thermite powder produces a burst of intense heat, which melts a thin wire holding a small weight.
12. The weight falls, pulling on a string that releases a small ball bearing.
13. The ball bearing rolls down a ramp and strikes a small switch, completing the circuit and turning on the light.

A simpler solution would be to use a basic magnetic sensor and relay setup to turn on the light when the door is opened, without the need for any additional components or complicated chemical reactions.

Pretty much what I posted above that they sell

 

[kinglake]

Just get a motion activated LED bulb. I have them in all my closets. Exact same end result that is accomplished by screwing in a bulb.

 

[alfredeneuman]

I have them in all my closets. Exact same end result that is accomplished by screwing in a bulb.

410.16 Luminaires in Clothes Closets.
(A) Luminaire Types Permitted. Only luminaires of the following types shall be permitted in a closet:
(1) Surface-mounted or recessed incandescent or LED luminaires with completely enclosed light sources

A motion sensor bulb usually won't sense the motion with a completely enclosed fixture