110V Welder ability question

[jproaster]

Ok. So I'm just learning to weld- practicing with an ac225. Eventually I'd like to get a mig and tig.

I have a small job that I'd like to tackle in my coffee shop...when I've reached a certain level of proficiency of course. I need to hang some kind of window treatment at the front of my shop- southern (winter sun) is terrible...people can't abide the heat of the direct light coming through. What I have to deal with is the bottom of an I beam running lengthwise with the top of the windows. About 6" of one side of I beam is exposed along length. I want to weld 1/4" brackets to the bottom of the beam. THe brackets are designed in a square C shape so that I can bolt 2X8's to the bracket bottoms. I can then choose from a number of options for window shades, etc by anchoring into wood.

So, knowing that I'd like to get a nice tig someday, I thought maybe a small mig (hobart 140, etc) might be the ticket- affordable and portable?

Is a machine like this able to fuse those materials sufficiently...strongly?

Thanks...and hope I was clear enough.
John

 

[56Safari]

I'm sure a Hobart 140 will do fine for the majority of small projects. The 140 machine maxes out at 1/4". If you click on product literature in the link beloow it will display the welders capacity by wire size, gas, etc....

Personally I would just buy the new Millermatic 211 right now, its got a $200 rebate to put it right in the 1k price range... It will do 120/240, and will likely be all the mig welder you will ever need.


https://www.hobartwelders.com/equipment/welders/mig-gmaw/handler-140-mig-welder-m00169

 

[Kaizen]

Put up a picture to be sure. If the Ibeam is structural then probably at least eighth inch thick. A 110 usuing flux core wire could. But it will make a mess. I wouldn’t.
How long and tall are these windows?


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[sberry]

Look at one of the Everlast inverter stick, under 300$ and can run 1/8 6011 and 3/32 low hi from 20/120 circuit. Get that for field work and a small 230V feeder for shop, forget tig for now. I do have a 140 mig, the small wire has its place but a 200 class has a lot more poop for structural work,

 

[jproaster]

I'll post pics of windows and beam tomorrow.
Windows don't reach the floor, but tops are almost 10'.

Whatever mig I get, I'll want it for projects like motorcycle frames, 1/8" steel for some table framing ideas I have and other smallish work. Now I'm pondering what may be more than what I really know. I admit that up front. I'd like to get a nice tig/stick in several months if I really take to welding. I can spare several hundred (maybe $1K) for the mig.
Just thinking a less expensive mig with a nice tig later on as one approach to my welding machine purchases.

John

 

[MoonRise]

Skip the welding.

Just use a "beam clamp".

Like these:

http://www.minerallac.com/products/electrical-hardware/beams/clamps/

Or similar from probably hundreds of other suppliers.

 

[Kaizen]

I’ve had a Eastwood 135 for ten years and used it with flux core on up to 1/4 inch with multiple passes. 1/8 inch with flux is no problem. I just wouldn’t use it inside a house or business. Just a lot of splatter. We can come up with other ideas when we see pics. If you’re stuck on it I’d pay a guy to tig it


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[theoldwizard1]

Some of the newer 120V welder require a 20A circuit. If you don't have one, you will be unhappy !

 

[bczygan]

Many more ways to fasten than welding.

Bill

 

[jproaster]

I have to admit, I've been just wanting to weld these brackets just for fun. Maybe I should use brackets. I did try to drill through the bottom some months back. Didn't have carbide bits; the beam just laughed at me at about 1/4". Gotta do something soon.

Thanks all. I'm sure the next couple days will give me a true path.

John

 

[Lwel9226]

If you weld.... Make damn sure you cover the glass, if you don't, you will have a bunch of tiny steel BB's all over your glass.... Hot welding spatter loves to stick to glass....
After you clean off the BB's (if you can clean them off) you will have lots and lots of tiny little craters in the glass permanently....
Better off to use some other method to hang your curtains....


LynnW

 

[James-W]

I have a 120 volt wire feed welder that works quite well for small projects, like welding a crack in your lawnmower deck. Doesn't work all that great on thicker metal though, at least I can't get it to work all that well on thicker metal.

 

[sberry]

You could learn to drill holes in steel.

 

[steel 35]

I want to weld 1/4" brackets to the bottom of the beam.

Is a machine like this able to fuse those materials sufficiently...strongly?

Thanks...and hope I was clear enough.
John

NO. clear enough

 

[sberry]

I have a 120 volt wire feed welder that works quite well for small projects, like welding a crack in your lawnmower deck. Doesn't work all that great on thicker metal though, at least I can't get it to work all that well on thicker metal.

Its kind of a strange concept but,,,, the wire feed is the heat. The machine will only make so much voltage to have the intensity to burn the wire off, basically arc length at hi rates. Look on the door charts for some hints as to what is wide open with it.
I was looking at a chart on a LINC 140 the other day and it was wayyyyyyyyyyy off, if a guy follows it will never get it to work right. Not even sure how they came up with it, the fumes must got to them when designing it.
I have another one from the same basic design, almost perfect.

 

[MoonRise]

As I said, use "beam clamps" to attach your 'whatever' to the I-beam.

No drilling needed. No welding needed. No possible spatter on the window glass.

But you say you 'want' to weld?

Sure, weld up whatever appropriate brackets you want/need to hang your curtain/shade FROM the beam clamps.

Do the welding in your 'workshop', not in the coffee shop. You can also do the grinding and the painting there too.

 

[jproaster]

Thanks all. There's something about seeking wisdom from those in the know

Sorry so blurry.

John

Brackets are looking good right now.

 

[bad_idea]

Grinding dust (the red sparks spraying off the grinder) will also burn into the glass. Welding around windows is... fun. Must cover and protect well. Keep in mind grinding dust laying on the floor (no matter how well you sweep, you will find more) will leave rust stains. I work in ship repair and am constantly dealing with covering and protecting ship's equipment. It's a PITA to protect military equipment from welding, let alone a restaurant.

That said, I recommend you buy a 220v MIG welder if you want to do any real welding. 110v machines are limited in their capability. 220v machines are just as portable. I have a 50' 220v extension cord made up. I have welded at a couple folk's house, just plug into their dryer outlet. It is a nuisance that there are a couple different dryer plugs in use, so I swap the plug end as needed. I plan to make up a couple pig tails (short adapter cords) if I get into doing more mobile welding. Trying to work it out that folks bring the work to me, rather than me traveling.

 

[sberry]

I agree that if a guy is half way serious gets a mig. Doesnt mean you never get another machine but they fab way better than smaller ones.

 

[sberry]

You can really get used deals on 120v machines used that a guy can buy one for it and 023 wire which is nice for super thin work. A 180-211 class is 2x a 140 with 030 in it.
I have moved a 140 a couple times, its handy, that thpe of stuff can often be done 120v. I really to field weld stick if I can.

 

[jproaster]

That said, I recommend you buy a 220v MIG welder if you want to do any real welding. 110v machines are limited in their capability. 220v machines are just as portable. I have a 50' 220v extension cord made up. I have welded at a couple folk's house, just plug into their dryer outlet. It is a nuisance that there are a couple different dryer plugs in use, so I swap the plug end as needed. I plan to make up a couple pig tails (short adapter cords) if I get into doing more mobile welding. Trying to work it out that folks bring the work to me, rather than me traveling.

Man. That's just awesome. I've got 50' of 6 gauge wire (3 wire with ground) that I bought for another job; is that too big for an extension cord? I realize there's an extra conductor; but should the wire size be 8?

Thanks
John

Btw, decided not to weld at the windows; gonna do some brackets or clamps.
Thanks again.

 

[bad_idea]

Drilling the beam shouldn't be too bad. You will need quality tools to do it though. The drill makes as much of a difference as the bits. A high powered, low RPM drill will cut much better than a high rpm low powered drill. Quality cutting paste makes a big difference too. I can't say enough for Anchorlube, great cutting paste and it is water based. Makes for easy clean up. Look it up on Amazon, you can get it for a fair price there.

When drilling use lots of pressure and lower RPMs. If your drill has two speeds, use the lower speed. Start the drill against the steel with minimal pressure and RPM and gradually step both up. If you push hard on the drill right away it will dig into the steel and snap the bit off. You will get a feel for when the bit is cutting good and when it is just spinning against the steel. You should get good sized chips. If you're getting little chips like grinding dust then your drill bit isn't cutting good. Add a dab of lube and try again. Still getting small chips then stop and sharpen your bit. Should be able to drill 20 holes with a quality bit between sharpening, 4 or 5 holes with a cheap bit.

Another important tip is stepping your bits up. Drill a pilot hole with a 1/8" bit. Then step up to a 3/8" bit. Then step up to a 1/2". And so on. You don't want to make too big of a step, you will work the bit (and yourself) too hard. Don't want to make too small of a step, you will rip the cutting edge off of the bit. Be VERY careful when stepping up a bit size, the bit will want to catch if you are not dead straight on the hole. When drilling overhead, on a ladder, the drill catching can throw you off the ladder.

 

[sberry]

The 6 is a lot of cord, difficult to handle.

 

[bad_idea]

6 gauge is unwieldy, but will work. Can always go bigger, but shouldn’t go smaller.

 

[sberry]

That is not really a cord but a cable. It is designed for ovens and panel to panel connections. A 200 compact mig allows 67 ft of 14 as a cord. Its whimpy though and you have to be on a 30 circuit, use 12 or better.