110v welder

[Fluelikesymptoms]

I'm getting ready to start a powerwheels build and my experience in welding is limited. By limited, I mean non-existent.

I have learned quite a bit and am looking to buy my first hot glue gun. I was set on purchasing the Eastwood 135 mig, but after looking more into it, I am starting to see a lot of positive un-boxing "reviews," but the reviews from owners who have used the welder for a bit, start to turn negative with common problems and no costumer support from eastwood or the full on parts cannon to no avail." Even with a 3 year warranty I am starting to shy away from the purchase and am wanting to consider other options.

I intended to buy the 135 with cart and accessories for 399 (currently on sale for 369.) I know that all good things come to an end eventually but I still want something that I can count on for a long time from now. At $399 and uncertainty about the eastwood I begin to consider welders like the Hobart 140 at TSC for $100 more and build my own cart as my practice.

My criteria for this welder is: 110v, the ability to wield from thin gauges up to 1/4 thick, reliable, and of good value. I will pay more for value, before I pay too much for something becuase it is cheaper. However, considering I will only wield as a hobbyist or for the occasional auto repair, I feel there has to be a good alternative for me that is below Miller prices.

Thoughts, suggestions?

 

[zendriver]

100 bucks more, for a welder that fit your needs better, seems reasonable.

 

[snyder]

I agree with your concerns about the Eastwood welder. I have owned mine for 5 years . I have put 4 rolls of wire through it in that time, all solid core with gas. It has performed well with no problems.

I was recently given a used Miller 140 as payment and it is definitely a higher quality, better built unit.
However the weld quality is the same.

 

[Kenskip1]

I was in the same boat a few years ago.However I went with a Lincoln Pro Mig 140.It works great and I have added the argon. My welds are actually very good.

 

[u2slow]

Spend enough to get into a dual-voltage machine and gas. You will outgrow a 120v-only machine fast unless you only plan to do sheetmetal/autobody.

Been hobby welding the last 22 years. Have had my millermatic 211 for 8 years.

 

[Parrothead]

Well, it only took 5 posts until the 240v and gas suggestion came about. lol

I suspect I’m in the same boat as the OP. I live in residential home with an attached garage. The ONLY reason I bought a welder is to do some bodywork on my project car. I went with the with the Harbor Freight Titanium 140. It still is 120v but is gas capable should you ever want it. At the time the Titanium 125 Easy Flux wasn’t out yet or I might have gone that route. Parts ARE available now from Harbor Freight for these welders. The Easy Flux has a coupon for $179, while the 140 has a coupon for $349.

Titanium Easy Flux

Titanium 140

 

[AldeanFan]

I have the Lincoln 140 and love it.
I have had no issues over 10 years and haven’t found anything i need to do that it won’t.

For a little more money you can rhe the 180 which runs on both 110 and 220 so t would give a little room to grow, but I got the 140 as a gift and I would get another in a minute.


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[kmacht]

Get the Hobart. I have met very few people who ever regretted getting that machine. You want the ability to use gas but if a cylinder and regulator isn’t in the budget make sure your machine is at least capable for a future upgrade. There is plenty you can do with flux core while you save up some more money for a cylinder.

 

[Ehcrain]

Ive got a klutch brand and have had good luck with it. Got a refurb and saved some cash as well.

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[G-ManBart]

110V welders have their place, but many people don't realize their limitations when they get them. You typically need a 20A outlet to run them at 100%. While they list them as being able to weld 1/4" material, you have to consider the duty cycle as well, and check whether that's with solid wire and gas, or just flux core. For example, the Hobart Handler 140 has a duty cycle of 9% if you're welding 1/4" material. That means you can weld for a minute and then wait 9 minutes before you can weld again.

Recently one of my coworkers was repairing heavy sheetmetal on his cargo trailer and welding the replacement metal with his Millermatic 130 which is in the same ballpark as the Hobart Handler 140. He had nothing but complaints about the lack of power and duty cycle using .030 wire and 75/25 gas to the point that he bought a bigger machine.

A dual-voltage machine gives you options even if you don't use it often....just a thought.

 

[Parrothead]

Question for all those recommending a 240v capable welder, how much did you pay to have the electrician come out and install a 240v outlet?

 

[u2slow]

Wired it myself. Cost of a breaker, some AC cable, and a receptacle.

 

[Parrothead]

...how much did you pay to have the electrician come out and install a 240v outlet?

Wired it myself. Cost of a breaker, some AC cable, and a receptacle.

As long as you’re comfortable doing that (I personally am), but that’s not the reality for many people, including GJ members. My bigger issue is tearing up drywall, fishing the wire and making it look good again. Do you really feel like running an extra outlet to your kitchen? Same thing.

So back to the question, what would it cost to have an electrician wire in a 240v outlet?

 

[zendriver]

Same old same old.

Someone wants to get started with an inexpensive welder and now has a grand into rewiring The garage and another grand, into a the cheapest model of a "brand name" welder.

No doubt it will look impressive, as it sits unused in the corner of the garage, 99.8% of it's life.

 

[The Other Sean]

I'd spend the extra on the Hobart or similar brand and accept the fact that you may outgrow the machine. But, it's also possible to just tack together the random thicker item and have someone else do the final welding.

I have a friend with a 240 unit that I just show up with a bottle of rum and he zips it together for me.

 

[pi_guy]

Same old same old.

Someone wants to get started with an inexpensive welder and now has a grand into rewiring The garage and another grand, into a the cheapest model of a "brand name" welder.

No doubt it will look impressive, as it sits unused in the corner of the garage, 99.8% of it's life.

Of course.
But some of us who have used the cheap machines and found the limitations offer the experience they have. Much along the line of you can never have too much horsepower in a car you going to want the 220 option.

The cost of a 220 line is the distance between the circuit panel and where you want the outlet.

Various times I have been forced to use **** no name machines it shows in the quality of the work. I am in the Miller camp and owned welders since 78 you pay for what you get.

 

[Bigbandguy]

Even though the sparkies on here would dispute the post title "110 Volt Welder" since most/all service now is 120 volt, the OP did specify a welder that runs off house current. The HF Titanium Easy Flux 125 is just about perfect for this requirement. I am really happy with mine and every YouTube review I have seen has been positive. Add a 39 buck cart and done for close to 200 bucks. For what the OP wants to do it is the way I would go.

Here is a thread I started asking questions about it before I got mine. They were in very short supply at first.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430172

 

[tonyciambrone]

I have had a Hobart Handler 140 for years now.. Never wanted for a bigger gun.

I knew a guy who did fab and repair for a living, he had a big TIG machine, and a Hobart 140. How many of you guys are constantly welding 5/16" and up in your shop?

 

[FSrepair&fabrication]

I have to agree with the 240v camp. You will hate your cheap welder after a short amount of time if you do any serious work. You can run an extension cord from your dryer outlet out the window to power a real welder if needed. Duty cycle is a big one with the cheapos, some newer machines will shut themselves down if you overheat them, the older/cheaper ones will keep going but weld like **** and leave you scratching your head as to why.

Alot of our walk in small jobs are parts that guys have tried to glue together with a 110 mig 2 or 3 times before they gave up and brought it in to be professionally welded. Its hard to get a solid weld on anything over 3/16 with a 110

 

[G-ManBart]

Question for all those recommending a 240v capable welder, how much did you pay to have the electrician come out and install a 240v outlet?

I wired my entire shop after I had the electrician put the panel in. That aside, many garages have sub-panels and don't have drywall to repair, etc, so adding a 240V outlet might not cost much at all....just sort of depends.

 

[G-ManBart]

Same old same old.

Someone wants to get started with an inexpensive welder and now has a grand into rewiring The garage and another grand, into a the cheapest model of a "brand name" welder.

No doubt it will look impressive, as it sits unused in the corner of the garage, 99.8% of it's life.

First off, nobody has said the OP has to buy a 240 machine, but at least he'll have more information to make an informed decision. Even something like Harbor Freight's MIG 170 (dual voltage) would give him the ability to weld bigger stuff if needed and can run on 120V for normal use. Heck, some people just make an extension and run it off their clothes dryer outlet for those rare instances when they need more power. That's only a $600 machine. There are plenty of other brands out there...and the OP wasn't only talking about Miller, Lincoln or Hobart, so there are lots of options that would be under $1K.

Second, you can't know what it would cost to have an outlet added in the OP's garage unless you've been there. It may not be all that expensive to add a 240V outlet...hopefully he'll comment on that.

Many people find that once they get a welder they suddenly realize they can do all sorts of things they didn't used to be able to do, and suddenly they want to be able to tackle bigger jobs, but can't without buying another machine. There are a lot of affordable machines out there that make that far less likely.

 

[zak77]

Hobart, Miller or Lincoln will do you right in the 110 class. I had a Hobart 140 for several years not one issue at all.

I asked an electrician how much to run a 220 outlet which is about 75' from the panel, since he was there running wire for a water heater. I believe he said about $500+/- but i ended up doing it myself.

 

[pi_guy]

I have had a Hobart Handler 140 for years now.. Never wanted for a bigger gun.

I knew a guy who did fab and repair for a living, he had a big TIG machine, and a Hobart 140. How many of you guys are constantly welding 5/16" and up in your shop?

I was welding an aluminum boat in the water and the material was about .080 and I was running my machine a Dynasty at about 80% on 220. It was December and the boat was a giant heat sink. So it is not only thickness but you get more flexibility in conditions.

 

[Parrothead]

I have to agree with the 240v camp. You will hate your cheap welder after a short amount of time if you do any serious work.

You did see the OP wants to weld up a power wheels, a glorified go cart, right?

Serious work? I live in a suburban HOA neighborhood with an attached finished garage. I bought my welder to patch up some rust spots on my Honda, fix an exhaust and maybe weld a broken rake. What kind of “serious work” would I possibly be doing? There’s honestly nothing I can even come up with.

You can run an extension cord from your dryer outlet out the window to power a real welder if needed.

You must be single. I don’t think the wife would be too thrilled with an extension cord running through the formal dining room past the kitchen and in front of the 1/2 bath before I even got to the garage. I don’t think I’d be too happy either.

 

[DGersic]

The Hobart 140 is a good buy. I’m happy with mine. Check their web site for “factory refurbished” models. Save some cash on a like new welder.

The HF cart holds it up ok. Can’t really complain, and buying it is probably cheaper than the steel to build your own.

Locally, Farm&Fleet has the best price on welding gas.



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[ShutterBugg]

Well, I'm in the 240v camp myself. Or at least dual voltage. You'll have it longer. I have a Hobart 175.

On the other side, if I was limited to 110v, I'd get that HF Titanium Easy Flux. For $180 (there's an active coupon out there now) and use the hell out of it until I outgrew it.

 

[DerekV]

This question comes up once a week. If you absolutely must restrict yourself to 120v, get an inverter welder. Despite what some old timers may tell you, in the year 2020, they are actually reliable. They can eek out more welding power before popping the breaker. A dual voltage inverter machine would be even better, but if you really can wait to save up for one, make sure the machine is an inverter power supply. I'd highly suggest getting a dual voltage inverter machine.

If you need more thorough case studies D), search/Google is your friend. Enjoy...welding is very fun and very addicting...

 

[driz]

I weld all I want with my HH135 since 2004 just using a regular 15 amp 14 ga wired[emoji82]circuit? It’s not even a dedicated circuit , just the wire that the wall plugs are on . It’s a long run of wire too being 80’ from the panel. Never tripped a breaker welding once that I can recall. I do most of my 1/8” and below with it.


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[bob15]

I must be backwards because I have two 240 volt Lincoln welders (SP170T mig & an Idealarc 250/250 stick welder) and am thinking of buying a 120 volt mig for sheetmetal work. I bought a spool of .023 ESAB wire and will try it on the SP170T before any decision is made. If I don't like it, I will probably buy the Hobart which is basically the Miller in different colors.


OP, Look at the Hobart welders. Might also look for a zoro.com coupon and get 10 or 15 or 20% off, with free shipping.

 

[outlawz2004]

Even though the sparkies on here would dispute the post title "110 Volt Welder" since most/all service now is 120 volt, the OP did specify a welder that runs off house current. The HF Titanium Easy Flux 125 is just about perfect for this requirement. I am really happy with mine and every YouTube review I have seen has been positive. Add a 39 buck cart and done for close to 200 bucks. For what the OP wants to do it is the way I would go.

Here is a thread I started asking questions about it before I got mine. They were in very short supply at first.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430172

I bought one of these to try out after seeing the reviews. I have other welding machines, but I love this little thing. Very powerful and so small and lightweight. Wire feed is very smooth as well.

 

[carmantl]

I'm an iron-worker foreman. We stick weld, usually with engine-driven miller machines. When we had several small jobs come up deep in factories where we didn't want to run 300 feet of leads, we purchased a Miller inverter that is dual voltage. It was unbelievable what that machine ( I think a Maxstar 150) can do on 110V. It will run 1/8" 7018s on 110 if you are a good weldor. It will also auto set to 220 if you have the circuit available and ANYONE can run 1/8 7018s with it. It was expensive, about a grand, and worked well for 3 years of intermittent use. When the jacklegs at Airgas told our boss that he could run 50 feet of leads instead of the 20 feet ones it came with, we promptly smoked the motherboard. The authorized Miller repair shop in our town wanted another grand to replace the motherboard, WTF? That's what we paid for the whole machine! The repair tech told us to look at the Everlast 160, available through Home Depot special order. For just over $300, it does everything the Miller would do and has a 5 year warranty, versus Miller's 3 year. We've had one for four years now and would not hesitate to buy another one. Just do NOT entend the leads!

 

[toddmorr]

been following this and the other myriad welder threads. Would a new in box Hobart 140 for $300 be a good deal? Assume limited, basic, occasional use....

craigslist ad....

 

[brownbagg]

my first machine was a miller 130, it was a POS, didnt have enough power to weld sheet metal. I just thought i was a bad welder. I upgraded to the hobart 235 ironman. it was like night and day. before you set on the little machine, play with a 220 machine. the power to weld come from the upper voltage, a 140 will never be able to weld more than 1/8 and with llimited duty cycle. the miller i had, had a 20% duty cycle

 

[bob15]

been following this and the other myriad welder threads. Would a new in box Hobart 140 for $300 be a good deal? Assume limited, basic, occasional use....

craigslist ad....

If it is NIB, yes it is a good deal. It is $500 on amazon

 

[DGersic]

been following this and the other myriad welder threads. Would a new in box Hobart 140 for $300 be a good deal? Assume limited, basic, occasional use....

craigslist ad....

Yes.



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[Jagmandave]

I've had my little 110V Clarke welder since it was 110V current!

I've never had any issues with it at all, and have run a LOT of 10lb and 2lb spools of wire thru it....about 35 years worth now.

it's done everything I've ever needed and that includes welding some 3/16" stuff. No, I don't try to run long beads with it, and I'm not in production with it so if I have to stop and let it idle for a bit between welds it's not an issue for me.

I also had a Lincoln 140 (120V) at work and it was easier to use, but that's because the Clarke has this bizarre combination of switches to set the power with. Modern units just use two knobs, one for power and one for wire speed. I did start off right with mine by getting a gas setup and buying a bottle.

One other thing that's really a non issue.....if you're just building hobby stuff, having to wait a few days for consumables or a part is no biggy. Get a well regarded unit (whether HF or Eastwood or whatever) and don't look back. Just go stick some metal together. Your first welds are gonna be **** no matter what welder you use!

 

[DGersic]

110V welders have their place, but many people don't realize their limitations when they get them. You typically need a 20A outlet to run them at 100%. While they list them as being able to weld 1/4" material, you have to consider the duty cycle as well, and check whether that's with solid wire and gas, or just flux core. For example, the Hobart Handler 140 has a duty cycle of 9% if you're welding 1/4" material. That means you can weld for a minute and then wait 9 minutes before you can weld again.

Recently one of my coworkers was repairing heavy sheetmetal on his cargo trailer and welding the replacement metal with his Millermatic 130 which is in the same ballpark as the Hobart Handler 140. He had nothing but complaints about the lack of power and duty cycle using .030 wire and 75/25 gas to the point that he bought a bigger machine.

A dual-voltage machine gives you options even if you don't use it often....just a thought.

As a counter argument, I deliberately did not go 240V when I bought the Hobart 140. I wanted something that would limit me, while learning to weld, so that I cannot get in over my head. Welding up a bracket from 1/8” or some sheet metal, the 140 will do just fine. Low duty cycle, not a problem, I have all day and it takes me a while to set up anyway.

Yeah, I won’t be building anything huge or life threatening out of 1/4” or thicker. At my current level of ability, I think that’s probably a good thing.

If, at some point, I decide I need and will use a bigger welder, I’ll buy one.




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[G-ManBart]

You must be single. I don’t think the wife would be too thrilled with an extension cord running through the formal dining room past the kitchen and in front of the 1/2 bath before I even got to the garage. I don’t think I’d be too happy either.

You know how the OP's house is configured?

 

[nikerret]

I went the other way. Found a good deal on a budget wire machine from the hardware store. Mine is labeled a Forney. It only cost a few hundred dollars for the entire setup and I’ve done a lot with it, as well as practicing after taking a welding class. Now that I have some experience, I know what I’m looking for, in a machine.

Other guys have used my machine and no one has spoken anything but praise for it. One of the guys is a welder by trade (on the kinds of things you need a giant trailer behind a semi, or two, and pilot cars). The other was a guy from the County shop. Both are used to using much nicer machines.

I was going to upgrade, but found this is a great unit to have. If I take it somewhere, I worry much less about it getting messed up. My next machine will be a 240v, which I’ve only needed a few times and always found a workaround.

 

[Brand X]

Ive got a klutch brand and have had good luck with it. Got a refurb and saved some cash as well.

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Yes the Klutch 140so or MP-140si is the deal.. It will output 170 amps around 19 amps when using .030 wire, and C-25 gas.. The arc is better then just about anything else in the 120 volt units.. Has great wet out, crisp arc, and perfect arc starts.. It will push a 12 ft gun no problem too..