To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

11b30b4’s Wilton C-0 rebuild

11b30b4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
1,029
Location
GA
I was fortunate to locate a Wilton C0 at an estate sale and snagged it for $45.00. The vise was mounted to a bench and did not have a swivel base with it. Oddly enough, the ½” center alignment pin was still inserted in the bottom of the vise. The previous owner had drilled a recess out of the bench to mount the vise flat. As far as I am aware of, the C0 was not sold without the swivel base and the presence of alignment pin indicates that there was a swivel base at one time. I looked all over for it but was unable to locate it.

View media item 111562
View media item 111561
View media item 111563
To be honest, I did not go out looking for a C0 but I do seek out Wilton’s. It was pure chance that I got this C0 and now that I have it, I have a burning desire to acquire a C1, C2, and C3. You see this is the problem with collecting anything. Once you have something that is part of a series, you all of a sudden want the entire series.

I digress, the vise itself is dated 6/15/64, which from what I have found means that the vise was manufactured in 1959. Regardless, this vise is older than me by 4 years so that makes it vintage in my book. The handle is badly bent, and I will be fabricating a new one. The is some red paint on the vise; however, for the most part, this thing is in really good shape. No cracks or welds and the jaw rests look great. The jaws also look good as well as the pipe jaws and the anvil.

I brought the vise home and disassembled it. Unfortunately, all the Philips head screws for the jaws were stripped and rusted in. Additionally, the pins that hold the pipe jaws in place were rusted as well. I was able to get out just one pipe jaw pin. All the others started to mushroom. Leaving the jaw inserts in, I placed all the parts into a simple green bath for 48 hours.

Next, I hand wire brushed the parts and rinsed them off, this removed 90% of the paint and grime. Next, I placed all the parts in a citric acid bath for another 48 hours.

Next, I rinsed all the parts and applied a lite coat of WD40 to everything then began to work on the jaw screws.

View media item 111593
Unfortunately, these screws would get drilled out. The two screw holes in the front jaw had to be tapped but the two holes in the back jaw were fine. I will be using socket head screws to replace these Philips screws. The jaws look good and moderately worn. From what I have read, this is exactly how everyone wants their Wilton jaws because they tend to be very aggressive from the factory.

View media item 111591
Next, I attempted to remove the three other pipe jaw pins. For several hours I worked at this and did not get very far at all. Aside from the citric acid bath, I have tried PB blaster, propane torch, small hammer, big hammer, steel drift punches, brass drift punches, brass hammers. I even tried to use a 2-jaw puller, but I could not get it locked to the vise body. Currently the parts are again soaking with PB blaster and I will be beating them into submission this evening.

View media item 111592
I also attempted to remove the alignment pin from the bottom of the vise body but that only ended up with me chewing up the sides of the pin with the vise grips. I will try heat on this pin as well this evening.

So, I was not sure I would do a thread for this rebuild but as things look to get more and more complicated, I decided to document how I approached these challenges.

If anyone has any suggestions on how to remove any of the pipe jaw pins and/or the alignment pin, I would appreciate their input.

As always, thanks for the interest.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

DD T/A

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2016
Messages
455
Location
North of ▼PL∇MB▼
I really hope you don't take this maliciously or the wrong way, but sometimes I think people take the teardown and restoration of these things way too far.

Clean it, drill a hole in your bench until you find a base, bolt it down and use it. There doesn't appear to be any constructive use to removing the jaws or the pins. :dunno:
 
OP
1

11b30b4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
1,029
Location
GA
DD T/A, I thank you for your input and this may end up being exactly what I do; however, I am a stickler for rebuilds and I want to disassemble the entire vise if it is possible. It should be possible, even if I need to fabricate news pins. As long as I can accomplish the disassembly without damaging the vise body, I will work to get it all part and cleaned to my standards.

I am in no rush and putting this vis into operation is not an immediate concern since I have 7 other vises to choose from. In the end, it’s the enjoyment of the rebuild that I look forward to. Again, I take no offense to you comments and I appreciate you view. If this was a vise I needed to use now, then things would be different, but time is on my side with this one.
 
OP
1

11b30b4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
1,029
Location
GA
Posi, thanks for the recommendation, I will check Kroil out.
 

DD T/A

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2016
Messages
455
Location
North of ▼PL∇MB▼
I was looking at your project the wrong way and didn't realize you were doing it for the sport of it(different context, totally OK)

Well I might as well learn something, any chance you could update this thread with your method on how you ended up removing the pins once you finish the project? :D
 
OP
1

11b30b4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
1,029
Location
GA
DD T/A, absolutly, that is, if i can get them out. More hammering last night only worsen the mushrooming effect.

More to come.
 
OP
1

11b30b4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
1,029
Location
GA
Roberts210, a great question.
The short answer, 3.5” jaws

The longer answer, The “C” series of Wilton’s are combination vises (think machinist vise with pipe jaws and a very small light duty anvil).
C-0 3.5” Jaws
C-1 4.5” Jaws
C-2 5” Jaws
C-3 6” Jaws

Wilton model numbers can be a bit of a conundrum so members here on GJ have complied a spreadsheet of a lot of American made vises by manufacture with a ton of details.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...YI7UKRpUd3aheAE86KBQRBGb9s/edit#gid=666157805

I hope this helps you out.
 
OP
1

11b30b4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
1,029
Location
GA
No recommendation for the pipe jaw pins and after several days of working with them I have decided that I was causing more damage than any benefit of getting them out.

As I said before, I have tried everything I could come up with and I only got one pin out. The other pins have not moved at all. Further, in these pics you can clearly see the damage I was doing to the pin and the vise.

View media item 111737
View media item 111736
Once I decided to move on, I needed to address the damage I did to the pins and the vise around the pins. Filling in these spots was simple enough once all the vise parts had been cleaned with the wire wheel.

View media item 111740
View media item 111741
The filler I decided to use is PC-7. I have used this stuff a lor over the years and it is outstanding. Once cured, it is machinable, you can tap it, and it sticks to almost any surface. I have things that I applied PC-7 to years ago and they are still holding strong. When it is first applied you can wet a finger and smooth the PC-7 to ensure a nice application. Anyway, I needed to fill in the cold pin divits I caused trying to get the pipe jaw pins out. Additionally, on the tail cap when the end cap meets, the edge had been broken off in a few places, this was purely cosmetic but since I was already using the PC-7, I may as well address this.

View media item 111739
View media item 111738
The PC-7 needs 24 hours to cure so I moved on to the replacement handle. Initially, I was going to make this from ½” stock but a test fit showed that ½” stock would leave a large amount of play. The hole in the spindle head is just shy of 5/8”. 5/8” stock would not fit inside, so I took some 5/8 stock and turned it down a bit. In this pic, I was preparing to sand and polish the 1144 turned steel.

View media item 111742
That is where I am. Thanks for the interest.
 
OP
1

11b30b4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
1,029
Location
GA
Update,
I finished polishing the handle rod and the spindle.

View media item 111801
I got some ¾” low carbon steel ball bearings, I will drill them out to 7/16” then turn the ends of the rod to 7/16”.

View media item 111802
I masked and applied metal etching primer o the vise body, jaw, and base. Then I masked and painted the pipe jaws and pin ends black.

View media item 111800
View media item 111799
Actually, I have already painted the body, jaw, and base with the hammered Verde green, but I forgot to get pics last night. Also, I have completed turning the end balls and handle to complete the handle. Tonight, I will finish the painting and weld the handle and that should complete the vise. More to come.

Thanks for the interest.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

exmaxima1

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
6,343
Location
Midwest
Without the words “GUAR EXP” stamped with the date, it is generally accepted that you do not subtract 5 years from the date. Your C0 is a 1964.
 
OP
1

11b30b4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
1,029
Location
GA
Mthomas1686, Thank you. I would like to find a C1 at a good price, looking forward to seeing your C1.

exmaxima1, Thanks for the information. That actually makes sense and I know a lot of us have been a bit confused about the stamp date.

Ok, I painted the vise with Rust-oleum Verde Green and used a silver paint pen on the lettering.

View media item 111853
Next, I finished the handle. I mounted the drilled-out ball ends to the rod and welded them in place.

View media item 111854
View media item 111855
View media item 111856
After a grind and polish the handle was done and I finished assembling the vise.

View media item 111857
View media item 111858
View media item 111859
I ordered some brass vise jaw caps from Grainger and once they arrive, the vise will be put into service. Thanks for the interest.
 
OP
1

11b30b4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
1,029
Location
GA
Mthomas1686, thank you. Yep, when I first started looking at collecting vises, I looked at a lot of pics and the ones with the bare metal ends just seem to pop so I figured, if I paint a vise, that is what I would do unless there was something unique with the Jaw inserts like on my Columbian 203 1/2 M2. It had T jaw inserts so I painted the ends but left the jaw T shape bare metal.

View media item 111188
 

consti2tion

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Messages
509
Location
East Texas
I just refinished a Wilton C0 myself and your restoration puts me to shame. I am embarrassed at how it turned out, especially in comparison to yours. Although I do not have the machining tools you have. My pipe jaw pins were not too much of a beating to remove, just a few good whacks with the punch and a hammer and they were moving, admittedly I was not near as cautious as you were. I did not use a center punch, just a round flat punch and an excessive amount of Kroil.

I wish I would have been patient enough to wait to get some of that Verde Green Hammered paint, I went with what I thought resembled 50's hospital green but in the end is much more "turquoise".

You are a master of this craft, your vises speak volumes for the detail and love you put into your work.
 
OP
1

11b30b4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
1,029
Location
GA
Consti2tion, thank you for your compliments. I believe my work is good but my friend who is visiting from Colorado, his work is amazing. Once he gets off his *** and post some pics of his Hollands 516 and Wilton 935. The attention to detail he has, puts me to shame.

Anyway, the Verde green is still available on ebay and a few other sources if you desire a can or two. Google for it and you will find it.
 

consti2tion

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Messages
509
Location
East Texas
I will definitely have to find the paint on eBay. It’s a shame it is not locally available anywhere.

I look forward to seeing those, you need to motivate him to post them.

Edit: looks like the only option is to spend 100+ on six cans on Amazon. Might go with the hammered light blue instead. The little lady might be upset if I spent that much on spray paint. Ha
 
Last edited:

macgee

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2014
Messages
2,834
Location
Sepulveda Pass, CA
I will definitely have to find the paint on eBay. It’s a shame it is not locally available anywhere.

I look forward to seeing those, you need to motivate him to post them.

Edit: looks like the only option is to spend 100+ on six cans on Amazon. Might go with the hammered light blue instead. The little lady might be upset if I spent that much on spray paint. Ha

I recommend driving around and looking in your local mom & pop paint stores and hardware stores. You could get lucky finding some cans of it.

I did, I went to my local unpopular & expensive deteriorating hardware store and found four cans of it and including spray cans of "Hammerite" blue which is considered gold in the machine restoration world and sadly its no longer sold in the states. You should have seen the cashier smirking, thinking what a chump he's buying all those cans that no one has wanted.


Hammerite Hammered Blue:
16714636966_4c356ebc67_c.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
1

11b30b4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
1,029
Location
GA
Yep the cans can be found if you look hard enough. I also heard that Rust-Oleum will make some on special order but I would expect that to be pricey.
 

consti2tion

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Messages
509
Location
East Texas
I will have to check out the older stores in my area for sure. Thank you both for the help! I will also look for the Hammerite blue, might help some of you guys out in the future!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom