12' drywall vertical

[binney59]

Hi, I had a pole building built and I am going to finish a portion of it for a cabin. My walls are 12 high and my posts are 8' on center with commercial (bookshelf) girts mounted flush to the posts every 2 feet.

If I run my drywall horizontally I would need to add backer every other row because the **** joints would not land on a post. My solution to this was to run 12' sheets vertical so that I do not have to add any extra lumber.

Has anyone here attempted this? How big of a pain in the **** is standing a 12' sheet vertical? Any input is appreciated! Thanks

 

[The Cobbler]

it is doable, but tougher to finish , and if you have to trim the tapered edge for any reason it's tougher . what size drywall would fit better on " every other row" so you don't need to add a backer?
many years ago I did some fireproofing & we had to lay 1 row vertical & 1 row horizontal

 

[readhead]

More taping and you will have a tapered edge next to a post that will have to be filled. I would do the extra backing and use 8' sheets horizontal.

 

[binney59]

it is doable, but tougher to finish , and if you have to trim the tapered edge for any reason it's tougher . what size drywall would fit better on " every other row" so you don't need to add a backer?
many years ago I did some fireproofing & we had to lay 1 row vertical & 1 row horizontal

8' drywall would require backing every other row if I ran it horizontally.

First row would start and end on a post. To stagger the seams I would start the next row with a 4x4' piece and that would leave the **** joint between the posts. Since my girts run horizontally I would only be able to get 2 screws in on the ends (one on top, one on bottom, and one in middle).

I know that commercial construction, specifically fire barriers, often run vertically which is what got me thinking about trying it that way.

 

[readhead]

Are the girts flush with the posts on the inside? If the girts are not flush you are going between the posts and there is no reason to stagger the sheets.

 

[binney59]

Are the girts flush with the posts on the inside? If the girts are not flush you are going between the posts and there is no reason to stagger the sheets.

The girts are flush with the posts.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

8' drywall would require backing every other row if I ran it horizontally.

First row would start and end on a post. To stagger the seams I would start the next row with a 4x4' piece and that would leave the **** joint between the posts. Since my girts run horizontally I would only be able to get 2 screws in on the ends (one on top, one on bottom, and one in middle).

I know that commercial construction, specifically fire barriers, often run vertically which is what got me thinking about trying it that way.

Why don't you just plan to install a vertical piece of 2x stock between your girts where you need a staggered joint?

 

[Pontiac787]

I would go vertical before stacking 3 sheets horizontally.

 

[binney59]

Why don't you just plan to install a vertical piece of 2x stock between your girts where you need a staggered joint?

That was what I was planning on doing before I thought of running rock 12' vertical. It may still be what I end up doing but running the rock vertical would avoid having to add wood between the girts.

I guess Im wondering if running sheets vertical would be more of a pain than just adding lumber behind the joints and running horizontal?

Thanks to all for the input!

 

[Bert_]

You won't have any **** seams but you will have more seams. I've hung some vertical before. Taping guys said it was kind of a wash.

 

[C91x]

I did 12' sheets hung vertical/commercial on 1/2 of my garage and it wasn't too bad by myself. I did ugly up the edges on a few when getting them into position. I just caulked my seams with the intent that I would tape and mud down the road. I wanted to be able to remove a section easily if I wanted to add an outlet or change anything. With everything i have up against the wall, i'm not even going to bother with mudding it now.

 

[metlmunchr]

Take a 24' long wall for example. Ignore the corners as they're going to exist in either case. Hung vertically, you'll have 60 ft of tapered edge joint to finish. Run horizontally, you'll have 48 ft of tapered edge joints and 12 ft of **** joints assuming you don't stagger the joints. So the footage of joints is the same. If you stagger the butts, then you'll have the same tapered footage and even more footage of butts. I'd go with vertical all day long.

Horizontal is the clear winner in residential with ceilings @ 9' or less. Board is available in widths up to 54" and lengths up to 16', so most rooms can be be done with a single tapered joint @ 4' or 4.5' high which can be finished by a man walking on the floor. But, in the OP's case, the upper horizontal joint would be at 8' so you're finishing that using either a Baker or stilts, and you've still got those butts going up to 12' to deal with and they're out of the range of stilts unless your "other job" is with the NBA.

 

[jimbojk]

As a commercial drywall contractor, hanging sheets vertically was the norm. My pole barn had posts 5' on center; I used metal studs in between maintaining 16" O.C. overall. No **** joints to contend with.

 

[speed bump]

I would hang them vertically, the only downside I have seen is it seems like the joints are more likely to telegraph but that might also be that commercial work is more about speed than anything.

 

[pofc]

Another vote for vertical,I did mine vertical because when i did our basement I had some **** joints to tape and mud, For a DIY"er this is way harder than a tapered joint. At least it was for me.

 

[Toolfool]

Horizontal. You don't need to land on framing with these : https://www.trim-tex.com/products/o...ies/backing-drywall/buttboard-drywall-backer/ .

 

[loganb]

Horizontal. You don't need to land on framing with these : https://www.trim-tex.com/products/o...ies/backing-drywall/buttboard-drywall-backer/ .

That's cool.... never seen that! Thanks for sharing

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[Toolfool]

That's cool.... never seen that! Thanks for sharing

Sent from The Garage Journal mobile app

I was a GC for 35 years (NY and Washington) and it amazes me how many drywall guys have never heard of **** boards. They create a tapered joint on the **** ends and you don't need to fall on framing.

 

[HaiKarate]

I was a GC for 35 years (NY and Washington) and it amazes me how many drywall guys have never heard of **** boards. They create a tapered joint on the **** ends and you don't need to fall on framing.

I agree this looks like a potentially great product - especially since it’s have a drywall project coming up. Where do you get this stuff? I don’t see it at HD or Lowe’s when I search - assuming I’ll have to call and ask around to various building/drywall supply places?

 

[Dumber than lumber]

Horizontal. You don't need to land on framing with these : https://www.trim-tex.com/products/o...ies/backing-drywall/buttboard-drywall-backer/ .

That is very impressive idea. Thanks.
BTW - have you met FloridaMan? L0L

 

[Toolfool]

I agree this looks like a potentially great product - especially since it’s have a drywall project coming up. Where do you get this stuff? I don’t see it at HD or Lowe’s when I search - assuming I’ll have to call and ask around to various building/drywall supply places?

Yes, I usually buy them at a drywall supply house.