12 foot wall framing

[Kaizen]

Looking over my plans that I bought and the walls have 1x4's led into them....normally i'd say mortised into the outside of the wall studs at a 45 degree. is this still required normally? I have it on my house but that was built in 1910 with 1x sheathing. I thought using 4x8 sheathing prevented racking so what's with the 1x4 corner support?

 

[39 Chev]

Not required in Minnesota. 12 foot 2x6 studs with OSB on outside...no 1x4's.

 

[Thumper68]

Not required here in MN but I have used steel strapping on a few walls that were subject to high wind loads.

 

[Chris705]

Not normally required when using 4x8 sheathing.

 

[Kaizen]

Thanks I will add it to the list of plan changes.


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[James-W]

Before you do anything I suggest checking out the local building codes to be sure what you want to do is OK, some place have weird rules.

 

[RocketScott]

Not required here in WA but the edges of the sheets need blocking behind them.

 

[matt_i]

If I am thinking correctly...once you get over 10 foot wall height even with 2x6 you need center-height blocking.

 

[Jlbc212]

When i built my garage i was working alone and left the sheathing off the studs until i had all the walls up in place. To keep the walls square i used a metal "t" bracing. All one needs to do is to make a saw cut the depth of the "t" diagonally across the studs, then just nail the "t" brace into the saw cut. But as others have commented, plywood or osb nailed to the studs acts as a brace preventing the studs from racking.

 

[LB-1911]

Looking over my plans that I bought and the walls have 1x4's led into them....normally i'd say mortised into the outside of the wall studs at a 45 degree. is this still required normally? I have it on my house but that was built in 1910 with 1x sheathing. I thought using 4x8 sheathing prevented racking so what's with the 1x4 corner support?

WB/WBC/TWB/RCWB Wall Bracing

Simpson Strong-Tie® Wall Bracing products offer effective options to resist racking during construction.

Additionally the RCWB and WB/WBC can be used to fulfill the same code bracing requirements as a 1x4 let-in brace, but are cost effective and faster to install.

Not designed to replace structural panel shearwall load-carrying component.

https://www.strongtie.com/wallbraci...c-twb-rcwb_productgroup_wcc/p/wb.wbc.twb.rcwb

Thanks I will add it to the list of plan changes.

As previously mentioned check w/your Bldg Dept / AHJ.

 

[Falcon67]

I used let in bracing but that's because I didn't use sheathing. Code or not, it makes for a squared up wall section that is easy to raise and set.

 

[matt_i]

Imo the Simpson flat strap should be done in an "X" or "V" configuration since in one direction the thin strap is under compression and won't do anything. Tension, however, is desirable. I used both CDX and the flat strapping. The one at top right is in an X-pattern since no windows are in the way on that wall.

 

[Kaizen]

Imo the Simpson flat strap should be done in an "X" or "V" configuration since in one direction the thin strap is under compression and won't do anything. Tension, however, is desirable. I used both CDX and the flat strapping. The one at top right is in an X-pattern since no windows are in the way on that wall.

Is that supposed to be on inside? Can it be used under sheathing so it helps when raising the wall?


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[matt_i]

Its somewhere between 1mm (.040") and 1/16" (.062") thick so I believe it will go under, with the flex in the ply/osb.

 

[RocketScott]

You would have been better off block behind the joints in the cdx and nailing those edges.

 

[Zeke]

Let in 1 x 4 or kerfed in, it's a great aid to standing and plumbing walls. Nail off 2 studs at the top and let the rest float until the walls are trued. Then nail it off. All the ruckus of installing trusses, roofing materials and then sheathing can play havoc on your truing job.

And we know that you don't sheath until the framing is completely loaded.

 

[Cyberbear]

When my shop was framed they used solid horizontal blocking at 48" for horizontal 5/8 sheeting. The upper 8' of vertical sheeting then had solid blocking on all edges. 1 x 6 loose let in bracing was used to hold the walls in place until all exterior sheeting was in place. I ended up with a good strong 30 x 80' building with 5:12 trusses at 24" o/c.

 

[Kaizen]

Let in 1 x 4 or kerfed in, it's a great aid to standing and plumbing walls. Nail off 2 studs at the top and let the rest float until the walls are trued. Then nail it off. All the ruckus of installing trusses, roofing materials and then sheathing can play havoc on your truing job.

And we know that you don't sheath until the framing is completely loaded.

huh? you saying no sheathing the wall until its up? I was planning on sheathing at least partially on the ground. thought this was the preferred method?