12' Wide swing gate

[onthefence777]

I need a 12' wide swing gate 6' high to replace a section of fence that has terribly rotting posts and very hack job braced with posts added over the years to keep it up. I have to reuse the very poor condition pickets in order to have some resemblance of the gate blending in - I don't want anyone knowing anything changed, at least until I can rebuild the entire fence line.

Fortunately the perfect gate location is exactly where the posts are the worst.

So, for a gate that will fit the bill, I have a couple of questions.

What kind of square steel tubing should I use dimension wise? How do I carefully re-attach the pickets to it?

I do have a cut off wheel, stick welder, rods, and everything I should need to get it done. Just need a little advice on how to make this happen with minimal expense as far as fabrication.

This also needs to be able to be done very quickly. I will need to buy the metal stock in the next couple of days and build over the weekend.

Thanks for any help!

 

[LXCam]

I have a 14' x 5' wrought iron swing gate. I used 6 x 6 x 3/8 embedded in 3ft of concrete. Even that had a little deflection so I added a spring loaded wheel to the gate. That was 15+ yrs ago and it's been fine. I assume you'll be making a metal frame to attach your boards too so it'll probably heavier then mine. But the wheel is the trick, just remember if the area that it rolls in isn't flat, you'll need to find a solution.

 

[onthefence777]

Yes I figured in a wheel for variation in ground height - I will have to do some leveling. Was going to go with 4x4 posts but will now figure on 6x6 wood posts.

Thanks for your input!

 

[jimgood]

So, basically, you want to replace a section of stationary fence section with a gate and have the gate look as much like the stationary fence section as possible, right?

Also, you need to either provide pictures or describe the existing fence better. What is it currently made of? Are the pickets wrought iron or wood?

As far as your plan, we don't know your location so can't recommend a steel supplier. But you should likely use the lightest tubing they have to save weight.

 

[onthefence777]

Just got a quote on 2"x2"x3/16' square steel tubing. 2x 20' of those will run me $120 from local steel yard cut into 2x 12', 2x 8' pieces. So thats my frame. Strong enough for the span? I figure I will use the 12' spans top and botttom, tack them together with one 8'er cut in half and thats the box frame. I will have to buy the 2 6"x6"x8' wood posts, concrete to sink 'em in and hinges...how do I attach old wood pickets to this metal frame? The pickets are cracked and old, fortunately I have a few spares if any bust on me...my best idea is pre drill and use lag bolts/washers/nuts?

 

[onthefence777]

So, basically, you want to replace a section of stationary fence section with a gate and have the gate look as much like the stationary fence section as possible, right?

BINGO.

Also, you need to either provide pictures or describe the existing fence better. What is it currently made of? Are the pickets wrought iron or wood?

Pickets are wood and pretty fragile. Figuring on 50% fail rate but have others I can re-appropriate, about 6 or so.

As far as your plan, we don't know your location so can't recommend a steel supplier. But you should likely use the lightest tubing they have to save weight.

Steel supplier is set, just need to know if 2"x2"x3/16" will handle it for at least a few months.

Thanks guys

 

[vintagespeed1956]

3/16 is waaaaayyyy overkill for a gate. it will handle the weight of a Buick in addition to your pickets. i was gonna suggest .095 for the perimeter framing, but you could do .120 if you think you need more heft. why not some 1x3 instead of square? you can definitely use a lighter weight tube if rectangular.

run a diagonal brace from corner to corner and attach your pickets to that with sheet metal screws.

 

[onthefence777]

3/16 is waaaaayyyy overkill for a gate. it will handle the weight of a Buick in addition to your pickets. i was gonna suggest .095 for the perimeter framing, but you could do .120 if you think you need more heft. why not some 1x3 instead of square? you can definitely use a lighter weight tube if rectangular.

run a diagonal brace from corner to corner and attach your pickets to that with sheet metal screws.

I am on a tight budget. But I also need this up fast.

Can I do this with just wood then? I googled, didn't find any people doing 12' spans with wood. If possible, it makes the whole project much easier and cheaper.

I know it will sag. I just need a gate, NOW!. Not interested in double 6' swingers. Space constraints dictate a single open-out-12' er

 

[bczygan]

I would make the post 12' tall and run a diagonal wire to the far top corner of the gate and another diagonally the opposite direction and at least 12 feet away to the base of another post.

This will triangulate and support the gate.

Bill

 

[onthefence777]

I would make the post 12' tall and run a diagonal wire to the far top corner of the gate and another diagonally the opposite direction and at least 12 feet away to the base of another post.

This will triangulate and support the gate.

Bill

I totally understand what you're saying here. You're going for the win!

Unfortunately, its because I'm screwed that I have to do this. If you guys saw why...

So. What I am going to do is build a 2"x6" wood framed gate, build it the best I can, and hope for the best. Because if it works even half-a#!ed and is all f^$k%d up, at least I can get to work.

This project is only necessary because *EDIT* the NEW GENERATION */EDIT* has absolutely no consideration for others in the city...and I can't wait to get out!

 

[vintagespeed1956]

I am on a tight budget. But I also need this up fast.

Can I do this with just wood then? I googled, didn't find any people doing 12' spans with wood. If possible, it makes the whole project much easier and cheaper.

I know it will sag. I just need a gate, NOW!. Not interested in double 6' swingers. Space constraints dictate a single open-out-12' er

you can get 12' wood, but you'll need 2x8x12 to cover that span and with bracing i doubt it will be; cheaper, faster, stronger. and it will definitely be heavier than steel.

edit:

and now we need the whole story and probably some pics!

 

[theoldwizard1]

The problem is not so much the gate, IT IS GATE POST ! You are going to need a 4x6x0.25 steel post set in 18" hole about 3' deep. The post will have to be filled with concrete. Also, the opposite post and latch will have to be able carry half of the load of the gate. You are going to need some SERIOUSLY big hinges !

It would take at least 2x6 to span 12', plus you would need some 2x6 cut on on 45° to "fill in" the center and prevent the corners from "racking". This would probably weigh more than the 2x2 .095 steel tube and still might twist !

If this "gate" is NOT going to be used much, make a fence panel out of wood and through bolt it to some 4x6 PT wood post. Yeah, it would be a pain to "open", but it is quick, easy and cheap. And DURABLE !

The other possibility is the support the removable fence section on 4 "drop bar holders".



Either of these 2 "removable" section solutions will require at least 2 people to "open" or "close".

 

[onthefence777]

you can get 12' wood, but you'll need 2x8x12 to cover that span and with bracing i doubt it will be; cheaper, faster, stronger. and it will definitely be heavier than steel.

edit:

and now we need the whole story and probably some pics!

I do owe that to you guys.

I have one day to hear your input on wood vs. steel. I have to figure this out by Friday.

So this may not be the best place for my story, but it started here.

I own my property out right. But I don't. I am constrained by terrorists.

They're the liberal type of terrorist that US law doesn't apply to.

Social Justice Warriors.

So the college kids started out parking in front of my truck, locking me in, a few years ago.

So, I parked my car in front of my garage, and drove my car to work.

The next year, they parked in front of my driveway, so I can't depend on my car to get to work. My truck is always blocked in by this point.

So I built a slide gate so I can get my car out of the back yard.

Then they started parking in front of my slide gate.

I was always relieved when summer came around, because I was finally free to count on all my parking spots.

Then last summer came. They blocked my truck even in summer!

Now this year. They not only block my truck and driveway, but now even my slide gate!

So now I'm down to the alley. They sometimes even block the alley at my end (and the fire hydrant in doing so), but at least if I get this new gate I will be able to go 800' in reverse down the allley to have road access.

I'm amazed at my patience, that I haven't purchased tow chains in order to drag vehicles out of the way...

pics to follow.

 

[onthefence777]

The problem is not so much the gate, IT IS GATE POST ! You are going to need a 4x6x0.25 steel post set in 18" hole about 3' deep. The post will have to be filled with concrete. Also, the opposite post and latch will have to be able carry half of the load of the gate. You are going to need some SERIOUSLY big hinges !

It would take at least 2x6 to span 12', plus you would need some 2x6 cut on on 45° to "fill in" the center and prevent the corners from "racking". This would probably weigh more than the 2x2 .095 steel tube and still might twist !

If this "gate" is NOT going to be used much, make a fence panel out of wood and through bolt it to some 4x6 PT wood post. Yeah, it would be a pain to "open", but it is quick, easy and cheap. And DURABLE !

The other possibility is the support the removable fence section on 4 "drop bar holders".



Either of these 2 "removable" section solutions will require at least 2 people to "open" or "close".

This gate will need to be usable daily, which is why I first thought steel.

 

[923]

1x4 wood similar to first one found here: https://www.ag.ndsu.edu/extension-aben/buildingplans/beef

Or quickest, go buy a cheap metal tube gate from tractor supply (or other). Then bolt pickets to it. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/utility-tube-gate-50-in-h-x-12-ft-l?cm_vc=-10005

 

[fourjeepin]

Why don't you have them towed? And what college is it? Sounds like they are taking advantage of your patience.

 

[jimgood]

Not sure how you're going to build a 2 x 6 x 12 wood frame gate that won't collapse under its own weight.

Steel is going to be better but 3/16" is too thick. It should be no thicker than 12 gauge, 16 would probably be better. You will need a diagonal brace running from the top of the hinged side to the bottom of the opening side. This can be 1" sq tube to save weight and money because it is only going to be under tension.

You're still dealing with a lot of weight, especially once you add those pickets. You can brace your hinge side post (if it's not a corner post) by running a diagonal from the top of that post to the bottom of the next post in the fence. But that only helps when the gate is closed. As soon as you open the gate, if it's hanging freely, it is putting a tremendous amount of torque on the post. The only other way around cementing a large post in the ground is to put a perpendicular diagonal brace on the opposite side from where the gate would hang when open.

You can attach your pickets with self drilling screws.

Make sure you pick up some scrap pieces of tubing in the same thickness to practice on as it's easy to burn through thin wall tubing.

 

[dadsEH]

Take the gate off and cut the sucker in half....reinforce withe steel frames and rehang.....minimum cost.

 

[Know Wosad]

Take the gate off and cut the sucker in half....reinforce withe steel frames and rehang.....minimum cost.

We have a winner ! 3 hour job.
One thing strange about this place is an incredible desire to complicate simple ****.

 

[kerrynzl]

What kind of square steel tubing should I use dimension wise? How do I carefully re-attach the pickets to it?

I do have a cut off wheel, stick welder, rods, and everything I should need to get it done. Just need a little advice on how to make this happen with minimal expense as far as fabrication.

This also needs to be able to be done very quickly. I will need to buy the metal stock in the next couple of days and build over the weekend.

Thanks for any help!

Make the frame from Angle. Pre-drill it and screw the pickets to it from behind.
or use the drilled angle for warehouse shelving and bolt it together [you'll need to make 4 corner triangle pieces]

 

[bczygan]

I do owe that to you guys.

I have one day to hear your input on wood vs. steel. I have to figure this out by Friday.

So this may not be the best place for my story, but it started here.

I own my property out right. But I don't. I am constrained by terrorists.

They're the liberal type of terrorist that US law doesn't apply to.

Social Justice Warriors.

So the college kids started out parking in front of my truck, locking me in, a few years ago.

So, I parked my car in front of my garage, and drove my car to work.

The next year, they parked in front of my driveway, so I can't depend on my car to get to work. My truck is always blocked in by this point.

So I built a slide gate so I can get my car out of the back yard.

Then they started parking in front of my slide gate.

I was always relieved when summer came around, because I was finally free to count on all my parking spots.

Then last summer came. They blocked my truck even in summer!

Now this year. They not only block my truck and driveway, but now even my slide gate!

So now I'm down to the alley. They sometimes even block the alley at my end (and the fire hydrant in doing so), but at least if I get this new gate I will be able to go 800' in reverse down the allley to have road access.

I'm amazed at my patience, that I haven't purchased tow chains in order to drag vehicles out of the way...

pics to follow.

Tow chains?

I'd get a forklift and pick the vehicles up, by slicing the forks right through the doors.

Seriously, I'd put up no parking signs and have them towed every single night.

Bill

 

[bczygan]

Or:

Get a couple of these:

http://www.thefirestore.com/store/product.aspx/productId/14264/selectedVariationId/11962/TheFireStore-Tire-Deflator-and-Core-Removal-2-in-1-Tool?utm_source=adwordsfroogle&utm_campaign=adwordsfroogle&utm_content=4122&gclid=Cj0KEQjwhtO7BRCtwuO9gfTH-fQBEiQAdJ8FYwOXOoA9SUfD2s9HWbIV0aujq_Ywhs5UvJ0tN4qQaCwaArtG8P8HAQ

 

[Todd.Brock]

Not sure about the Social Justice warrior part- but don't cut off your nose to spite your face . Meaning- don't build a ****** gate tomorrow that will just make you more angry when the thing won't open. Can you fence off your front property? Can the city be made aware or repeated violations? Can you set up an agreement with a towing company to post signs that say you will be towed- and then start calling anytime they are on your property? Your post is a bit vague on the big picture.

If you are hell bent on a gate you need more than a 6x6 wood post. Even if the post doesn't deflect, the hinges will, or the mounting hardware will and on and on until you have a Fort Knox grade gate. I would build out of metal, triangulate the corners, and have at least a wheel at halfway and the endpoint. You would need hinges the size of the gate if not.

Good luck

 

[red92s]

12' is really wide for a single swing gate. The post it hangs from is more problematic than the gate frame itself. You are going to need a beefy post that goes really deep. Might not help you much at this point, but my gate project is detailed out below. It's only been about 18 months, but no problems at all so far.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=273568&highlight=gate+steel

 

[Eagle Point]

Here's what we did with our fence. I needed access to the side of my yard to park my trailer so we took the fence apart and built two 8ft gates that open out. I kept the pass through gate to the far left. The frame is 1"x3" mild tubing, I forgot the thickness but it was fairly light. I added the dolly wheels at the center of each 8' gate to help support it. It's been up for 7 years and it works for what I need and from the outside it still looks like a fence to satisfy the HOA clowns.