120 gallon air compressor build
- Thread starter shen
- Start date
I would probably recommend the Eaton kit.
http://www.eatoncompressor.com/page/page/518643.htm
http://www.eatoncompressor.com/page/page/518643.htm
Mr_fixit
Well-known member
I have this eaton http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/518643/1017632.htm powered by a 5hp motor.
I'd suggest either 7.5 hp motor or 5hp. It supplies plenty of air to my sandblast cabinet.
I'd suggest either 7.5 hp motor or 5hp. It supplies plenty of air to my sandblast cabinet.
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
I would get a big piece of iron for a 120 gallon tank. Look for a 7.5 HP motor driving something like a Quincy QR-25, model 340 or a Champion, Eaton, IR, Saylor-Beall or equal pumping the air.
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rsanter
Well-known member
I have an IR compressor pump I could sell you
normally its $1300 new
View media item 1160View media item 1158
the unit was swapped out because of a broken reed valve. that has been replaced and the unit is good to go
bob
normally its $1300 new
View media item 1160View media item 1158
the unit was swapped out because of a broken reed valve. that has been replaced and the unit is good to go
bob
LoneGunman
Well-known member
I also recommend the Eaton, I purchased the 7.5hp compressor pump from Eaton and found a new 7.5 HP Baldor motor on Ebay. I have around $1000 in my setup but I can run my sandblaster nonstop, the Eaton is also a very quiet compressor.
fordbroncodave
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2009
- Messages
- 4,555
rotary pump. only way to go
Nealcrenshaw
Well-known member
Question: When building a AC what shuts off the pump when max pressure is achieved and what kicks it back on?
Mr_fixit
Well-known member
pressure switch and magnetic starter.
Do I have to buy a pressure switch rated for this tank?alot of them I have seen only go to 150psi and the tank its rated at 200,On the side it has a lable saying it has automatic drain but on the right side in the pic it has a galvanized pipe coming out of the right bottom with a valve on it,also on the filter regulators, is the 40.00 1 at harbor freight be ok?
nissan_crawler
Well-known member
The pressure switch has to be rated to the tank or pump, whichever is lower.
If you have a 150 p.s.i. tank and 175 p.s.i pump, and put a 175 p.s.i. switch in, the tank could go boom (unlikely, but bad idea to try).
If you have a 175 p.s.i. tank and 150 p.s.i. pump, and put a 175 p.s.i. switch in, the pump will never shut off.
personally, I usually go for one about 20 p.s.i. under the lowest rated item.
As for the automatic drain, from what it sounds like, it probably failed and somebody installed a valve setup.
If you have a 150 p.s.i. tank and 175 p.s.i pump, and put a 175 p.s.i. switch in, the tank could go boom (unlikely, but bad idea to try).
If you have a 175 p.s.i. tank and 150 p.s.i. pump, and put a 175 p.s.i. switch in, the pump will never shut off.
personally, I usually go for one about 20 p.s.i. under the lowest rated item.
As for the automatic drain, from what it sounds like, it probably failed and somebody installed a valve setup.
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
The pressure switch is related more to your pump than the capacity of the tank. Most pumps are rated to 175 psi and the tanks are rated to 200 psi. The pressure valve controls the pump, not the tank.
Either way, you DO NOT want to run your tank at 200 psi. this is like using 12 gauge wire on a 20 amp circuit, the 20 amp breaker will kick off before the wire melts. On your tank, the safety valves (make sure you have them AND test them at least monthly) are set to cut in at roughly 190 psi, the pump shuts off at 175 psi and the tank is rated at 200 psi.
Nothing should go "boom" if you stay in those limits. Filters and regulators are a personal preference. I use a lot of HF items but prefer Wilkerson and IR regulators and filters.
By the way, the pressure switch controls when the pump comes on and when it turns off. They can be adjusted for the cutoff pressure but the differential is usually factory set and can't be changed.
Either way, you DO NOT want to run your tank at 200 psi. this is like using 12 gauge wire on a 20 amp circuit, the 20 amp breaker will kick off before the wire melts. On your tank, the safety valves (make sure you have them AND test them at least monthly) are set to cut in at roughly 190 psi, the pump shuts off at 175 psi and the tank is rated at 200 psi.
Nothing should go "boom" if you stay in those limits. Filters and regulators are a personal preference. I use a lot of HF items but prefer Wilkerson and IR regulators and filters.
By the way, the pressure switch controls when the pump comes on and when it turns off. They can be adjusted for the cutoff pressure but the differential is usually factory set and can't be changed.
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
Looks like NC beat me to it. I thought he was working on a transfer case today....
First off, how much do you want to spend? $100 or $1000 on a pump? New or used?
If you're close, you should check out rsanter's IR pump. That should put out low 20's CFM, IIRC.
I don't have any info on the HF pumps, but they seem to have a following.
I would think you're going to need 20+ CFM to make it blast cabinet friendly.
I always seem pumps for sale on eBay and Craiglist. Might be worth a shot.
If you're close, you should check out rsanter's IR pump. That should put out low 20's CFM, IIRC.
I don't have any info on the HF pumps, but they seem to have a following.
I would think you're going to need 20+ CFM to make it blast cabinet friendly.
I always seem pumps for sale on eBay and Craiglist. Might be worth a shot.
Mr_fixit
Well-known member
That won't provide enough air for a blast cabinet.
Still looking for a 5 or 7.5 motor and a nice pump on a budget in N.C.
I have checked craigslist here and all I mostly see is 3 phase..is it very expensive to convert the 3 phase over to single phase?or is it worth it?
Anyone on here have any compressor builds they can share here?pic's would be great..
Thanks for looking.......
I have checked craigslist here and all I mostly see is 3 phase..is it very expensive to convert the 3 phase over to single phase?or is it worth it?
Anyone on here have any compressor builds they can share here?pic's would be great..
Thanks for looking.......
Todd.Brock
Well-known member
Not sure if anyone is interested or not, but here is what your compressor tank looked like when it was fully dressed. The garage I rent has had this sitting around for a number of years. I have thought about buying it but not sure thats in the cards. The tank is about 20 years old. It is currently a duplex model run by two 5 hp 3 phase motors. The owner bought 2 Leeson single phase motors to replace along with 2 single phase magnetic starters. It would be an interesting project. Good luck on your compressor!!!
JohnFreeman
Well-known member
But do yourself a favor and don't get a Chinese one. You want a compressor, not a grenade.
the compresor i had had a 10 hp 3 phase on it..
I found this IR for 500.00 and a Speedaire for 1000.00 with a 7.5
I am thinking about sellig this big 120 tank
The speedaire has alot more cfm's compared to the IR
This is the specs on the IR
__________________________
The air compressor model is 2340LT serial # 30T902623.
Motor is 220 volt, single phase, 5 horsepower, 3450 RPM
Comes with an 80 gallon tank.
air capacity: 14.7 cfm @ 175psig
________________________________
specs the speedaire are
Model 3JR80
SCFM 25.1 AT 175 PSI
The 7.5 speedaire puts out alot more than the IR
but I can get the IR alot cheaper.........
check out the pic's
the IR is a 2002 model
and the speedaire is a 07?
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/1489508101.html
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/1472972336.html
I found this IR for 500.00 and a Speedaire for 1000.00 with a 7.5
I am thinking about sellig this big 120 tank
The speedaire has alot more cfm's compared to the IR
This is the specs on the IR
__________________________
The air compressor model is 2340LT serial # 30T902623.
Motor is 220 volt, single phase, 5 horsepower, 3450 RPM
Comes with an 80 gallon tank.
air capacity: 14.7 cfm @ 175psig
________________________________
specs the speedaire are
Model 3JR80
SCFM 25.1 AT 175 PSI
The 7.5 speedaire puts out alot more than the IR
but I can get the IR alot cheaper.........
check out the pic's
the IR is a 2002 model
and the speedaire is a 07?
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/1489508101.html
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/1472972336.html
Attachments
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Except for slight differences in the electric motor capacitor mounting, that Speedair looks just like my 7.5 hp Campbell-Hausfeld made Husky, which is about a $1700+ compressor new.
Charles
Charles
http://www.compressorpartsstore.com/ Look at this for IR parts.
This is my IR with 3hp 3ph motors. I built a Rotary Phase converter and it runs great.
This is my IR with 3hp 3ph motors. I built a Rotary Phase converter and it runs great.
If you decide to sell the tank, let me know. 930
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erik carstens
Member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2016
- Messages
- 12
For additional info., The duplex air compressor in your pictures is a HR5D-12 ... The tank that is stripped is from a HR 7-12 or HR 10-12.. They are a little shorter than the Duplex tanks. And they have a larger diameter. I just picked up a HR5D-12. And just sold a HR 7-12 which has the Champion R-30 pump with either 7.5 hp or 10 hp motor...I used it for sandblasting with a 7.5 set-up and it only cut on every 15-20 minutes...I've used the R-15 pumps for sandblasting as well .. They are the pumps on your Duplex photos..Basically they are half of an R-30 pump.. The valves and cylinders are interchangeable as well..The 12 in the model numbers stands for 120 gal. The H is for horizontal unitsNot sure if anyone is interested or not, but here is what your compressor tank looked like when it was fully dressed. The garage I rent has had this sitting around for a number of years. I have thought about buying it but not sure thats in the cards. The tank is about 20 years old. It is currently a duplex model run by two 5 hp 3 phase motors. The owner bought 2 Leeson single phase motors to replace along with 2 single phase magnetic starters. It would be an interesting project. Good luck on your compressor!!!
and the D is for Duplex units. The R is for the R-Series pump type which has Disc type valves where as Champions RV type pumps have Reed Valves, which is like IR pumps
Swingpress
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2017
- Messages
- 537
Um...from 2009.....
Yep.......definitely 09'
Yep.......definitely 09'
Todd.Brock
Well-known member
Holy Back from the dead, Batman!! That was a fun little trip down memory lane. I quit renting that garage in 2011. I wish I would have bought those motors from the owner. He wasn't sure what all he had. I wouldn't be surprised if they are still sitting here to this day.
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