I got some ceiling mounted infrared heaters and in one room I wanted to use the wiring from a wall cadet heater to power it. The heaters are 240v, but can be 120 as well (just draw more that's all). But I was thinking...it only demands 12 gauge wire because of the amp draw at 240...can I just route the wires in the breaker panel to two slots, convert that line to 240 and use the white wire as a hot? That's bascially what the new wire runs are going to be so I don't see anything wrong with this.
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120 to 240 conversion
- Thread starter mendozer
- Start date
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yes
Just be sure to re-identify the white wire with a few inches of black electrical tape on both ends.
I'm sure the resident electricians will let us know if re-identification is required, or not.... I do it for good measure. (and because a friend of mine, who is a Master electrician, made me do it on several of my projects years ago. lolol)
I'm sure the resident electricians will let us know if re-identification is required, or not.... I do it for good measure. (and because a friend of mine, who is a Master electrician, made me do it on several of my projects years ago. lolol)
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Are these really dual voltage rate heaters? what is the make and model? unless youre rewiring how the elements are connected, they will not draw more power. a resistive load actually draws less power at lower than rated voltage.I got some ceiling mounted infrared heaters and in one room I wanted to use the wiring from a wall cadet heater to power it. The heaters are 240v, but can be 120 as well (just draw more that's all). But I was thinking...it only demands 12 gauge wire because of the amp draw at 240...can I just route the wires in the breaker panel to two slots, convert that line to 240 and use the white wire as a hot? That's basically what the new wire runs are going to be so I don't see anything wrong with this.
micromind
Well-known member
If the heater is actually 120 or 240, it'll have 2 separate elements, both will be 120.
For 120 input, they will be connected in parallel, 240 will be a series connection.
On the nameplate, it will give 2 amperages, the higher one will be for the 120 connection, the lower will be half as much and be for 240.
If the heater is 240 only and it is supplied with 120, it'll draw 50% of the current and you'll get 25% of the heat. And if has a fan, it will turn slowly and eventually burn up.
For 120 input, they will be connected in parallel, 240 will be a series connection.
On the nameplate, it will give 2 amperages, the higher one will be for the 120 connection, the lower will be half as much and be for 240.
If the heater is 240 only and it is supplied with 120, it'll draw 50% of the current and you'll get 25% of the heat. And if has a fan, it will turn slowly and eventually burn up.
micromind
Well-known member
I got some ceiling mounted infrared heaters and in one room I wanted to use the wiring from a wall cadet heater to power it. The heaters are 240v, but can be 120 as well (just draw more that's all). But I was thinking...it only demands 12 gauge wire because of the amp draw at 240...can I just route the wires in the breaker panel to two slots, convert that line to 240 and use the white wire as a hot? That's bascially what the new wire runs are going to be so I don't see anything wrong with this.
If the heater is actually 240 volts, then yes, you can indeed use a 12/2 for it. As noted, tape the white with just about any color other than gray or green. Black is fine.
Also, us a 2 pole breaker, not 2 single pole ones.
johnre
Well-known member
Just be sure to re-identify the white wire with a few inches of black electrical tape on both ends.
Am I the only one here who thinks the H2 connection should only be relabelled red?If the heater is actually 240 volts, then yes, you can indeed use a 12/2 for it. As noted, tape the white with just about any color other than gray or green. Black is fine.
Because black is already being used for H1.
This is the way 12/2G Romex already comes colored for 240 V wiring..
micromind
Well-known member
I always use red to re-label the white but I also have red tape readily available, a lot of people don't.
The main idea is to re-label the white so it doesn't get confused with a neutral.
The main idea is to re-label the white so it doesn't get confused with a neutral.
sparky 1971
Well-known member
There's nothing wrong with labelling it black. Or red, blue, brown, orange, yellow, pink, or purple. As long as it is marked to keep the next guy from thinking it's a neutral, it's ok.Am I the only one here who thinks the H2 connection should only be relabelled red?
Because black is already being used for H1.
This is the way 12/2G Romex already comes colored for 240 V wiring..
i wired it up today. Heater will go on tomorrow. It comes set up for 240 from the factory but the infrared heater can be 120 also. it's the same 750W unit, just a different pigtail. So i assume it just draws amps differently. It's a solaray-d heater. And yes i labeled white to black tape and even wrote "240" on the romex sheath in the wall and the EMT box. I kind of like this EMT stuff. Grounded it from the romex right to the box and didn't have to run the ground wire in the conduit.
got it up and working. I BARELY had enough distance for the existing hot/neutral (now hot) lines in the panel without wanting to rearrange things. The conduit part worked out nicely but I forgot that the EMT box was to be surface mounted and i cut a hole before i started so I had to modify the inside of the wall with some wood brackets and I have some spackling to do. But it's up and that's all that matters. Now i just have to patch up where the old cadet heater was below.