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120V Welder Question

mikester

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Well, it happened to me again today. I planned on using bucket seats in my project car and had the body shop weld in the inner brackets. Long story short, there was a change in plans and Im in the process of removing the brackets.
I started to cut them out with a 4" cut off wheel. The main portion of each bracket was pretty easy to cut out. The flat tab wasnt. If they were flat to the floor I would have left them in but they were sticking up a bit so I tried to get them out. In the end I wound up with 2 nice sized cuts in the floor and 6 holes about 3/8" diameter.

The last time I needed something welded on my car I practically had to kiss the guys *** to get him to come over to do it. Getting the car to someones shop isnt easy. No motor and its on dollies in my garage. I also sold my trailer 3 years ago. In other words its a big hassle to take it to a place.

That brings me to this post. I was looking at 120V welders. Whats the difference between the gas less and the ones that use argon ? I would just need one for **** like this. Can I get away with no gas ?
 
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G-ManBart

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Without more information there are so many possibilities, it's really hard to answer your question. It seems you're talking about a wire feed (MIG) welder and comparing flux core wire that doesn't require a shielding gas, which is normally a mix of argon and carbon dioxide for MIG.

One thing to know is that flux core runs hot and would be very hard to use on sheet metal.
 

Loscaldazar

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As already said, gas less (flux core) runs much hotter than gas (MIG or solid cord). Flux core is nearly impossible to weld on auto body parts and you'll burn through unless you take some intense counter measures. You would need 0.023 diameter flux core wire which is nearly impossible to find and most machines can't feed flux core wire in that small of a diameter (don't have the correct drive rolls for it because it is so rare), need copper backing spoons on every weld meaning you need two people and access to the other side of what you are welding which just isn't possible everywhere on a car. You also get a ton of spatter all over everything you are welding, which is a pain to clean up and can ruin other parts on a car. Flux core just isn't for cars, it's more for industrial welding or welding in high winds that will blow away shielding gas normally.

MIG (metal inert gas) welding uses a variety of shielding gasses (depending on what type of metal and process you will be doing) to weld things together. For your case, welding on a car with steel panels, you would use C25 (75% argon 25% CO2). Pure argon is used for aluminum welding with MIG, which probably isn't the case for you, but there are a few cars that could be project cars that do have some aluminum panels. You'd probably know this already if it did.

A lot of people will recommend a Hobart 140 Handler. It's good, I had one for a while, but I wouldn't purchase one again if I had to buy a 120V MIG. I'd go for the Everlast 140e, since it is smaller and has a better duty cycle. Has spool gun capabilities too if you later want to do some (very limited) aluminum welding.

In reality, all 120V MIGs are pretty lame. If you get into welding things, there is very little you can actually do with 120V, and you'll find yourself just running a 220V line to the garage and getting a nice 220V welder. I've heard that story time and time again from people who are getting into welding, and I myself have done that exact same thing. So don't buy a $800 Miller 120V machine, stick towards the cheaper (but still good) end and get an Everlast 140e. Many won't like them because they are chinese made machines, but they have been greatly increasing their reliability and capabilities over the last few years (and are greatly improved right now and pretty good machines), and the 140e is a very basic and reliable design. For at home use on 120V, I think they're a much better bet than a Miller, Lincoln, Hobart or ESAB (which ESAB is Chinese now anyway and being made in one of Everlast's former factories).
 
Last edited:

Zeke

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I think you will be happier with shielding gas. Lots of folks looking to move up as Loscaldazar mentioned, so be on the lookout for something used that has the gas capability. Most that are moving up will try and keep all their ancillary equipment so be sure to ask and bargain for the rest. In most cases the gas bottle won't be sold with the unit so you may have to buy one — don't rent. If they are getting out altogether, that would be a sweet deal depending on the negotiated price. Again, don't 'buy' a rented bottle. Ask for the bottle's receipt.
 

rnscustom

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You can buy a lot of them now 110/220 . gasless / flux core . I bought a refurbed hobart for $419.00 on Amazon 220 machine but there are similar savings on the 110 /220 unit . You can weld thin metal with flux core but it's not pretty ( cleans up with some grinding ) . I have a friend that does everything with the harbor freight 90amp ( can be had for $89 on sale ) .
 

crewchief888

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if you stay with a 110v machine, go as big as you can, 135a-140a

most of the bigger machines will be already set up for gas with a regulator and hose.

i rarely switch over to gas, i run .035 flux core 99% of the time.

while it's possible to run flux core on sheetmetal, (i do it all the time) but, as mentioned, it's a royal PITA, especially for a newbie.

one thing to remember, when changing from flux core to solid wire, dont forget to change the polarity as well....



:beer:
 

M_George

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I have the Hobart Handler 140 and do stich welds on sheet metal all the time using .030 flux core wire. After you do a few tacks and get the timing right, it does a nice job. Since I have to do most of my welding outside anyway, flux core is often the best way to go.
 
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Loscaldazar

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I have the Hobart Handler 140 and do stich welds on sheet metal all the time using .030 flux core wire. After you do a few tacks and get the timing right, it does a nice job. Since I have to do most of my welding outside anyway, flux core is often the best way to go.

What thickness of sheet metal?

There is sheet metal, and then there is some auto body thickness sheetmetal that is just insanely thin. Older vehicles tend to be better about this, but some new ones the sheetmetal barely exists....
 
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mikester

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It looks like a friend of mine just solved this problem. Hes moving out of state and he was getting rid of a lot of his stuff. Long story short, he sold me a Clarke 180 mig welder with a cart and small argon tank for $100. Its a 240V but we've used it in my garage in the past. Same plug as my compressor. He also threw in a 25' extension cord that he made for it and a new extra spool of wire.
Im not sure Clarke is still in business but it seems parts are still out there for sale. I remember when he bought it new to use on a car build. I dont think I can lose for the price.
Any opinions on Clarke welders ? I know its not a Miller or Lincoln but Im sure it will be fine for the amount of use it will get in my garage.
 

fourjeepin

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Buy a welder! Get the best you can afford, but do it. You will not regret it. I learned on a flux core 110v POS. I used it for years building and repairing all kinds of things.
 

Ditch

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It looks like a friend of mine just solved this problem. Hes moving out of state and he was getting rid of a lot of his stuff. Long story short, he sold me a Clarke 180 mig welder with a cart and small argon tank for $100. Its a 240V but we've used it in my garage in the past. Same plug as my compressor. He also threw in a 25' extension cord that he made for it and a new extra spool of wire.
Im not sure Clarke is still in business but it seems parts are still out there for sale. I remember when he bought it new to use on a car build. I dont think I can lose for the price.
Any opinions on Clarke welders ? I know its not a Miller or Lincoln but Im sure it will be fine for the amount of use it will get in my garage.

You ****
 

rnscustom

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Clark is a good machine and I think you can get your parts from Lincoln , along with my hobart 190 I also have an old esab 150 migmaster 110 machine . It also uses the Clark , century , and Lincoln parts , nice score the tank is worth more
 

Cope

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Houston, TX
It looks like a friend of mine just solved this problem. Hes moving out of state and he was getting rid of a lot of his stuff. Long story short, he sold me a Clarke 180 mig welder with a cart and small argon tank for $100. Its a 240V but we've used it in my garage in the past. Same plug as my compressor. He also threw in a 25' extension cord that he made for it and a new extra spool of wire.
Im not sure Clarke is still in business but it seems parts are still out there for sale. I remember when he bought it new to use on a car build. I dont think I can lose for the price.
Any opinions on Clarke welders ? I know its not a Miller or Lincoln but Im sure it will be fine for the amount of use it will get in my garage.

Problem solved. The cylinder is probably worth more than you paid for the whole package.
 

warweapon762

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Dec 1, 2013
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323
if you stay with a 110v machine, go as big as you can, 135a-140a

most of the bigger machines will be already set up for gas with a regulator and hose.

i rarely switch over to gas, i run .035 flux core 99% of the time.

while it's possible to run flux core on sheetmetal, (i do it all the time) but, as mentioned, it's a royal PITA, especially for a newbie.

one thing to remember, when changing from flux core to solid wire, dont forget to change the polarity as well....



:beer:

I've put down pretty decent welds on sheetmetal with a DC inverted stick welder as well. It's not easy as you point out but I learned a trick from a friend of mine, use a large piece of brass on the back side of your project to act as a heat sink of sorts. It's not always viable for some projects, but I have gotten some pretty sweet results doing that.
 
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