12ft walls - what sizing combo for block/stud?

[jpcjguy]

So I have been reading a lot about walls. Eventually when I build my 30x30 I want to have height for a lift - I assume 12' 6" would work - trying to keep the walls as low as possible as it will be tall enough with attic trusses.
Standard practice around here is footing with block - which brings up what combination to go with? I plan on 2x6's for walls - so 10 footers with 3 courses? 12 footers with 1 course? 8 footers?

Aside from raising the wood from the finish grading with more block, what are the pros/cons? I will eventually insulate and drywall - so should I minimize the blocks for insulation reasons?
I did see the use of 6" wide blocks so the sill plate covers it completely and makes a nice match up with the drywall.
Trying to learn....

thanks!

 

[dmcintosh]

My brother did something similar when he built his garage. I think he ended up using 3 courses of block and stick framing on top. A big portion of his decision was that when finished this looked most like the existing foundation on his house. Otherwise, I would say cost out the different options and see which suites your budget.

 

[finn]

Mine is 3 courses of split face block and 10' studs. Ceiling is about 12'6".

The other portion uses 8' studs, with the same 3 courses of block.

The stepped roof looks less commercial than a bare, tall building, and I only need the height for a couple of bays.

 

[lakeroadster]

So I have been reading a lot about walls. Eventually when I build my 30x30 I want to have height for a lift - I assume 12' 6" would work - trying to keep the walls as low as possible as it will be tall enough with attic trusses.

Trying to learn....

thanks!

Food For Thought:

10 ft walls will work for the lift if you use scissor trusses, or a ridge beam, or trusses with purlins. This allows you to raise the vehicle above the flat ceiling and up into the pitched roof area.

 

[jpcjguy]

I thought about doing scissor truss on the one side but figure having the entire footprint with attic truss would be the cheapest $ per square foot around....

 

[akdiesel]

jpcjguy

I have 12' 6" ceilings. The walls are 2x6's with no blocks. I have a BendPak HD 9W. I am able to lift a 2500hd truck on 285 75 16's all the way with approx 6" of clearance (ceiling to truck roof).
One course of block on the bottom would be nice to have for a good water protection.
My roof pitch is a 4/12. the only other thing I would have liked to have different is 14' ceilings though. Two reasons. I have a mezzanine that has a 4' space above a room and I have 10' tall doors. 12' tall would be better to put an RV inside.

 

[Doug1]

Have 12' ceilings off of 10' walls. Nothing extraordinary to get it done and it added little to the cost. I use a 4 post lift and my sports car comes close to the ceiling so I would consider 12' pretty much the minimum. If the hood were up on the car and I fully raised it, the hood would defiantly hit the ceiling before the full lift height was reached.

 

[jpcjguy]

jpcjguy

I have 12' 6" ceilings. The walls are 2x6's with no blocks. I have a BendPak HD 9W. I am able to lift a 2500hd truck on 285 75 16's all the way with approx 6" of clearance (ceiling to truck roof).
One course of block on the bottom would be nice to have for a good water protection.
My roof pitch is a 4/12. the only other thing I would have liked to have different is 14' ceilings though. Two reasons. I have a mezzanine that has a 4' space above a room and I have 10' tall doors. 12' tall would be better to put an RV inside.

Thanks for the info - I would have 9/12 pitch with attic truss. So if you did not have an RV would the 12' be fine?
I have a 7.3 Excursion on 35s so that is a lot of body/weight up in the air....
Also - from Doug1's post about the hood up - how has that been with the truck on the lift all the way up? Or is that not possible with the hood up?

 

[Chris705]

My thought is the block & stud length issue comes into play mostly when grade is high and water wants to be kept away from sill plate and lower wall. At a min. I would want two to three courses of block exposed. If grade around the garage can be kept down the I would recommend the 6" block top course.

 

[jpcjguy]

Lot is pretty level where the garage would go. Here is a pic. The garage would go where the shed is and the shed is moved.

 

[akdiesel]

With no RV the 10' tall doors work great. The hood on my truck will contact the ceiling but if there is work going on the truck with the hood up the lift will not be all the way up.
I can work very comfortably with the lift approx 3/4 of the way up and the hood open. No problems.
Looking at your area, do you have tractors? And if so will they clear the the door opening.

 

[jpcjguy]

akdiesel - no tractors. It is a 2 acre lot (residential neighborhood). I would love one, but cannot justify it. Only have a 54" zero turn mower.
I can live with the hood and not being able to go all the way up aspect. At 6' 5" tall, I have to duck no matter what....

 

[readhead]

Seems like an unnecesary expense. Make sure the concrete is at least 6"-8" above grade and frame 12' walls.