12th Hour Epoxy Floor Dilemma!

[90LX]

I've learned quite a bit on this website, and ordered Sherwin Williams Armorseal 1000 HS along with the Armorseal primer for my 850 sqft garage. I planned on using 6 gallons, with 3 gallons per coat. It seams that shot blasting the floor is the better way to go if possible from my reading on here, so I tried to find a place to rent/or do it for me. I thought I found a place searching online but they only acid etch now for $0.40 sqft (I planned on doing the acid myself if not shot available). This company specializes in epoxy floors (wouldn't tell me what they use exactly) and quoted me for $1.10 a sqft. That covers the acid prep, epoxy floor, and a urethane cover, for a total thickness of around 21 mils. My raw materials are nearly $600.00. They would be under $1K for the whole job. I think I need to see some of their work and ask for references. They claim to do many local dealerships and aircraft hangers.

 

[bmwpower]

If they won't tell you what they use, move on.

 

[RickP330]

You already purchased the materials? I'd get at least another quote or two. Will they at least tell you if it's water based, 100% solids epoxy or whatever else? I agree, I'd wanna know first.
RickP

 

[90LX]

Just spoke with the technical sales guy again. They use a 2 to 1 mix of an oil based epoxy. Urethane top coat is also 2 to 1. I asked him for the product name/manufacturer and he would only tell me it was made to their specs by a company from Pennsylvania. Explained they have done floors for 20 years and this is the best stuff going, blah, blah. I inquired about the time to complete the job and he claimed 2 days! I asked about the drying time after acid etching and he claimed they apply the epoxy and top coat the next day.

Summary: When it sounds too good to be true, it probably isn't true.

I ordered the Armorseal stuff last week from SW, and will pick it up today. I'll be doing the acid etch myself. Wish I could have found a shot blaster. Has anyone ever put a clear coat over the Armorseal to protect from UV, and protect shine, etc?

 

[bmwpower]

I wish I would have but the SW clear isn't UV stable, so I decided against it. I never researched if another product could go over top of it or not. I figure, worst comes to worst I get a couple gallons and recoat the whole floor.

 

[bmwpower]

STOP THE PRESSES....

Which PRIMER are you going to use? Some people have had problems with the primer...coating bubbled and lifted... you may want to rethink the primer, if it's the one I'm thinking about.

Search for OldCarGuy's post on the subject.

 

[90LX]

STOP THE PRESSES....

Which PRIMER are you going to use? Some people have had problems with the primer...coating bubbled and lifted... you may want to rethink the primer, if it's the one I'm thinking about.

Search for OldCarGuy's post on the subject.

Armorseal 33 per the AS 1000 HD application sheet. I'll search for his posts.

 

[Vicious_Cycle]

I recall reading that ArmorSeal primer thread... After reading it, I decided not to prime.

I put the AS1000 directly on the bare prepped floor, and I have had no problems with it. My epoxy install is six months old now.

 

[bmwpower]

Armorseal 33 per the AS 1000 HD application sheet. I'll search for his posts.

I believe that is the stuff.

I just thinned the first coat using the required reducer (noted in my threads). Went on really nice and sunk into all the crevaces just like a prime coat should. Then followed up by nice non reduced coat or two.

 

[90LX]

I believe that is the stuff.

I just thinned the first coat using the required reducer (noted in my threads). Went on really nice and sunk into all the crevaces just like a prime coat should. Then followed up by nice non reduced coat or two.

Is it the stuff you were concerned about, or did you have good luck with it? I've got a 5 gallon kit of it (AS 33 Primer) now, along with 3 gallons of A and B AS 1000 HS. Thanks for all the advice everyone.

 

[bmwpower]

Is it the stuff you were concerned about, or did you have good luck with it? I've got a 5 gallon kit of it (AS 33 Primer) now, along with 3 gallons of A and B AS 1000 HS. Thanks for all the advice everyone.

It's the stuff. Might be isolated problem, but I didn't use it nor would I use it. A reduced first coat is what I used.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2230&highlight=Armorseal+33

 

[Floorguy]

I've learned quite a bit on this website, and ordered Sherwin Williams Armorseal 1000 HS along with the Armorseal primer for my 850 sqft garage. I planned on using 6 gallons, with 3 gallons per coat. It seams that shot blasting the floor is the better way to go if possible from my reading on here, so I tried to find a place to rent/or do it for me. I thought I found a place searching online but they only acid etch now for $0.40 sqft (I planned on doing the acid myself if not shot available). This company specializes in epoxy floors (wouldn't tell me what they use exactly) and quoted me for $1.10 a sqft. That covers the acid prep, epoxy floor, and a urethane cover, for a total thickness of around 21 mils. My raw materials are nearly $600.00. They would be under $1K for the whole job. I think I need to see some of their work and ask for references. They claim to do many local dealerships and aircraft hangers.

You are probably right, if it sounds to good then there is something wrong.

AS far as bubbling ont he primer I have found via experience that theprimer needs to go down as the slab is cooling, an hour or 2 before sunset so you have just enough time to get it done with a little spare time left. As the slab cools it absords material, as it heats it tends to outgas and make bubbles in the primer. If it does bubble you can sand them and then put the next coat on.

I am getting ready to post a 4 pager summary on epoxies from my perspective. It does not cover everyting, but it hits the basics. Should be up tonight. IF you do find a shotblaster it will require more material to cover as all the peaks and valleys just **** up the goo.

Look for the thread " The truth about epoxies"