13,000 sqft i got some question, can you help?

[Gabe_j]

hey folks,

i need to have the machine shop floor treated, the company president wants it to look nicer. granted we are in the compressor repair industry so the work around here is dirty, HEAVY, and corrosive.

contractor #1 bid $32,760 +tax

shot blasting
primer PolySpec 100EX
epoxy TuffRez 201
polyurethane TuffRez235
dying the epoxy med grey, yellow keep clear lanes
and mixing in grit to the top coat (or where ever it goes)


contractor #2 (cost to be turned in tomorrow)

Diamond grind the floors clean
dying the concrete grey
coating polyasartic (spartic-all RM by elite crete)
scoring keep clear lanes
painting in keep clear lines
2nd coat of polyaspartic

suggestions, other options, or just some ideas to toss at my contractors would be great. i'd love some pro's and con's from the folks that have worked with both products ideally.

thanks,

Gabe

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Two completely different systems.
Either will probably be ok with the corrosive.
Either will probably look like hell because of your dirty work environment.
#2 will be more cleanable than # 1 as you didn't mention skid resistance for # 2.

I am partial to the more natural looking system, polyaspartic over stain.

 

[thegarageguy]

wow $2.50 per sqft.....cheap. Don't expect much impact resistance. It seems like it's a paint job. Not sure of the existing condition but you did mention it's dirty and my guess is it's contaminated. Make sure they degrease or that all contaminants or bond breakers removed.

#2 would be a better system because it's faster curing and a short turn around type system. Without looking up the product data sheets, my guess is that #1 would have a 7 to 10 day full cure, no heavy traffic until 4 days

Keep us posted on what #2 comes in at.

 

[Cabby89]

Im going to take a stab that #2 is going to come in around $3-4/sqft. If #2 is going to do it the way I am thinking you will have plenty of slip resistance and wont need any sort of additional shark grip additive.

 

[thegarageguy]

The Spartic all is just as thick as 100% solids, it is film forming, so its best to add the non slip texture on the final coat. Shark grip will not work, it'll sink and disappear. without texture you'll have an ice rink.

 

[Gabe_j]

thanks for the input guys, it is a pretty dirty floor in a couple of areas hydraulic oils and coolant saturated concrete in the 2 worst areas everything else would be fine with a light cleaning.

i mfgr. for the polyaspartic just left my office (local to houston) says it should be in the $4-6 neighborhood. he needs to look up some enzyme that will eat the hydrocarbons out of the concrete in our real bad areas. but he too recomends the polyaspartic. fourtunately if i choose to go that route he would actually be involved with the contractor through out the clean up and install. so if there are any issues he will be onsite to resolve any issues we may have.

i should have mentioned we are probably going to have some slip resitant grit broadcasted in our higher traffice areas.

does $52-78,000 sound about right cost wise on a project this size? i just don't think i'll get upper management to approve that much money i may be able to convince them but its unlikely.

any thoughts?

 

[Gabe_j]

ok they came back with 75K as a firm bid. looks like i'm going to just acid wash this diy style, and drop some urethane. we beat this floor down too much to drop that kind of coin. thanks for everything guys.

 

[Carl B]

Six Dollars per sq. ft. ?? How much would a new concrete slab cost per sq. ft. today?

 

[djjsr]

I was responsible for that same thing about 4 or 5 different times and there is absolutely, positively, no way in hell I would EVER try to color coat a machine shop floor again. It's totally a waste of money and will look terrible in a very short time. Then you will spend more money stripping it again.

The best results I've ever seen (in about 20 different plants where I've worked) were to clean the floor, shot blast and apply a clear sealer that penetrates the surface. You'll get oil resistance and it won't scrape off. It looks good, maybe not as nice as pretty paint but it will still look good in 5 years.

 

[jdaallen]

I was responsible for that same thing about 4 or 5 different times and there is absolutely, positively, no way in hell I would EVER try to color coat a machine shop floor again. It's totally a waste of money and will look terrible in a very short time. Then you will spend more money stripping it again.

The best results I've ever seen (in about 20 different plants where I've worked) were to clean the floor, shot blast and apply a clear sealer that penetrates the surface. You'll get oil resistance and it won't scrape off. It looks good, maybe not as nice as pretty paint but it will still look good in 5 years.

#1

 

[Carl B]

Please describe or explain how one "shot blasts" a concrete floor.
thanks
Carl B.

 

[djjsr]

Please describe or explain how one "shot blasts" a concrete floor.
thanks
Carl B.

There's a machine designed specifically for it. The ones I've seen are a walk-behind machine that blasts the surface and has a rubber skirt to contain the shot, picks it back up and uses it again (although a little does escape). They work great for cleaning paint and dirt off the surface but if the concrete has oil soaked into it, the shot blasting will not remove the oil.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Shot-blasters leave corn rows and if you want to hide these you need a good thick color coat.

 

[tncatadjuster]

Please describe or explain how one "shot blasts" a concrete floor.
thanks
Carl B.

http://acepoxy.com/acepoxy.com/HOME.html

click on picture of shotblaster

 

[thegarageguy]

Shot-blasters leave corn rows and if you want to hide these you need a good thick color coat.

Ditto.....not a good Prepping method for a thin mil system.

BTW, a good coating can cost more than a new slab. New concrete will still be porous and dusty. The $6 price seems right on.