14" Abrasive Cutoff blades

[scooterbum46]

I was afraid this day might come...
I've got an older Ryobi 14" cutoff saw that I use for cutting stock in welding projects. I haven't done much lately, but needed to cut some 3" wide x 1/4" thick strapping. I've never had good luck cutting thicker stock except with one blade - Craftsman 932024, which cut without work hardening the stock. Since That blade is no longer available (bye bye Sears and Sawbuck) , tried to find another fast cutting blade and got a pair of Norton 89359 "Fast Cutting" blades from Northern Tool. I tried cutting the 1/4 " thick stock and immediately saw that this blade wasn't what I was looking for, it quit cutting and went into a "wear it's way through" mode almost at once. ..

Anyone have a recommendation on 14" abrasive blades that don't work harden the stock, or whatever these blades do?

 

[jack stand]

Are you cutting in the "flat" dimension? Any stone that I've ever had would zing right through 1/4", but that's with it stood up cutting the thin way.
I've seen some labeling on stones mentioning steel stud work, very light guage metal. I wonder if this is what your Norton is and always wondered what the difference was.

 

[Monza Harry]

Please explain your technique. If you are just laying on the saw, I'm not surprised at the results, plunge in until you have lost about 20% of your RPM then withdraw the blade until the saw is back to 100% RPM then wash rince and repeat the above technique, I expect you'll see better results and a much smaller "HAZ" [heat affected zone] as a bonus. Cut time is about the same to usually a little faster. Harry

 

[Jswain]

As mentioned, probably more technique then anything. Stock thicker then 1/6" you're better off pulsing the blade in and out...helps the blade cut straighter too. Also good advice with positioning the stock straight up instead of laying down 3" wide, but this will unfortunately likely make the cut crooked.

 

[scooterbum46]

If I can, I use a vertical cut, unfortunately that's not always possible - cutting square tubing and angle stock for example. Over the years (roughly 30) I'd tried various brands of blades, always went back to the Sears as the only one that would cut without the issue. The "rinse and repeat" method is normal with any blade, but with the Sears blade it would go right back to cutting, the other blades felt like there was no cutting action (I know it's really grinding). In looking at the blades just now, the Sears is much thinner than the Norton, I'll measure and report. I really appreciate the responses.

 

[scooterbum46]

Just a quick note - the top one is the Sears wheel, note the difference in thickness and composition..

 

[mike93lx]

Thicker isn't better by default. Different materials and reinforcements are part of the equation.

The thinnest wheel that can cut without exploding will likely be the fastest, but the technique is different

 

[Monza Harry]

Thicker isn't better by default. Different materials and reinforcements are part of the equation.

The thinnest wheel that can cut without exploding will likely be the fastest, but the technique is different

Mike is spot on here! Thinner wheel uses less power, [maintains speed better and creates less heat in your material, wear is good, that means fresh abrasive less clogging which all = faster]. If your wheel is clogging or glazing up, take apiece of scrap steel and chip the wheels edge a few times [4-6] around its periphery to get to fresh abrasive, some wheels are better than others but figuring out which cuts what nicest can get costly. I rarely use mine anymore, at work I use what they supply and rarely pay attention to what is on the saw. [Sorry] Harry
Edit: thinner does mean more fragile so use appropriate caution though.

 

[nadogail]

I bought a box of 12 blades at Harbor Freight some unknown years ago, just put on a new one two weeks ago. At the rate I use them, I probably have a Lifetime Supply.

 

[mike93lx]

I bought a box of 12 blades at Harbor Freight some unknown years ago, just put on a new one two weeks ago. At the rate I use them, I probably have a Lifetime Supply.

Abrasive wheels?

They expire and should be discarded at a point, especially with how heavy they are and how fast they spin

 

[Walkers]

I was afraid this day might come...
I've got an older Ryobi 14" cutoff saw that I use for cutting stock in welding projects. I haven't done much lately, but needed to cut some 3" wide x 1/4" thick strapping. I've never had good luck cutting thicker stock except with one blade - Craftsman 932024, which cut without work hardening the stock. Since That blade is no longer available (bye bye Sears and Sawbuck) , tried to find another fast cutting blade and got a pair of Norton 89359 "Fast Cutting" blades from Northern Tool. I tried cutting the 1/4 " thick stock and immediately saw that this blade wasn't what I was looking for, it quit cutting and went into a "wear it's way through" mode almost at once. ..

Anyone have a recommendation on 14" abrasive blades that don't work harden the stock, or whatever these blades do?

You might consider upping your game a little with a better saw (the dry saws are pretty decent for hobby guys and the prices are decent now). If not, the thinner blades do cut quicker. Increased pressure takes the glaze off the abrasive wheels better to keep them cutting. Technique for cutting plays a big role. Use vertical for flat bar. Make yourself a jig to hold tubing at an angle for cutting (use a piece of angle iron on the point), or you can move the tubing forward/backward on the saw table so that the blade doesn’t hit it on the flat. I found the DeWalt blades were decent (note, that I have not touched an abrasive saw for at least a decade, so I am likely out of touch).
Another tangent you can take is bandsaws. I switched from abrasives to dry saws, and now do a majority of my cutting on an Ellis bandsaw. The cutting is very accurate, and far more pleasant than any prior options.
Lastly, if your cutting is is similar materials, like flat bar, angle iron, etc. consider cutting it with a 4.5“ angle grinder and a cut-off wheel. The cuts, while dependent on the user, can be more accurate than a 14” saw, and are certainly quicker.

 

[Jswain]

Abrasive wheels?

They expire and should be discarded at a point, especially with how heavy they are and how fast they spin

Ya but who removes the wheel off their old busted *** DeWalt to check the expiry date when they pull it out once a year?

Wear your ppe & don't remove the guards

 

[mike93lx]

Ya but who removes the wheel off their old busted *** DeWalt to check the expiry date when they pull it out once a year?

Wear your ppe & don't remove the guards

He has a pile that aren't mounted...

 

[Jswain]

He has a pile that aren't mounted...

Even better...

My guess is the expiry date on them is there to protect.....

The company

 

[mike93lx]

Even better...

My guess is the expiry date on them is there to protect.....

The company

Lol.

You drink old milk too, eh?

Organic resins break down over time especially when exposed to moisture.

You do you. I'll try not to kill myself.

 

[Jswain]

Lol.

You drink old milk too, eh?

Organic resins break down over time especially when exposed to moisture.

You do you. I'll try not to kill myself.

Yes because milk and abrasive wheels have so much in common.

You probably have a better chance of choking to death on your next glass of milk then death by abrasive wheel...unless you are cutting sheet metal in your lap, sitting on a gas tank wearing a speedo and smoking a cigarette.

Don't die on me bro

FYI: I'll gladly accept all GJ NOS expired abrasives to make GJ a safer place because I love you all, message for shipping address

 

[rattle_snake]

You might consider upping your game a little with a better saw (the dry saws are pretty decent for hobby guys and the prices are decent now). If not, the thinner blades do cut quicker. Increased pressure takes the glaze off the abrasive wheels better to keep them cutting. Technique for cutting plays a big role. Use vertical for flat bar. Make yourself a jig to hold tubing at an angle for cutting (use a piece of angle iron on the point), or you can move the tubing forward/backward on the saw table so that the blade doesn’t hit it on the flat. I found the DeWalt blades were decent (note, that I have not touched an abrasive saw for at least a decade, so I am likely out of touch).
Another tangent you can take is bandsaws. I switched from abrasives to dry saws, and now do a majority of my cutting on an Ellis bandsaw. The cutting is very accurate, and far more pleasant than any prior options.
Lastly, if your cutting is is similar materials, like flat bar, angle iron, etc. consider cutting it with a 4.5“ angle grinder and a cut-off wheel. The cuts, while dependent on the user, can be more accurate than a 14” saw, and are certainly quicker.

suggest all the above. I will not use a 14" abrasive chop saw they **** compared to all the other options.

 

[tarbellb]

I place abrasive chop saws in the same category as oilless pancake compressors

Gets the job done, painfully

 

[tarbellb]

And yes, thinner is better, and better quality blades last a lot longer and with less debris

 

[jptbay]

I have had some cutting wheels that were awful. Poor life, crappy performance, and constantly trip out a 15 amp breaker.

Usually buy Sait/United Abrasives now. They have never caused me to want to hurl the chop saw through a wall.