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145” 2 post with 144” ceiling height

Tizzy

Active member
Joined
Apr 7, 2020
Messages
43
Location
SW WI
Has anyone erected a 145” 2 post in a shop with 144” ceiling? I’ve got a few options.
Pour two piers an inch less than surrounding floor.
This may pose a problem with bottom of lift arm clearance to the floor. I’m not sure. The other option is to place it evenly between two trusses and raise that portion of the ceiling above the truss level; basically an inverted box.

Anyone tackle a project like this, how did you do it?
Thanks
 
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wssix99

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
5,155
Location
Chicago, IL
I was 6” short in height and did the inverted box thing between trusses. I’m 5’10” and have plenty of headroom under my Tundra. Cars I can max out the cylinder stroke.
The ability to do this is uncommon. Typically the joists or trusses above would run the short dimension of the building and one would not be able to notch into the ceiling in this direction.

Has anyone erected a 145” 2 post in a shop with 144” ceiling? I’ve got a few options.
One thing to double check is the measurement of the ceiling at the exact point where you want to put the lift. Garage floors are typically sloped so the measurement will be higher near the doors and much shorter on the end furthest away from the doors. (If you took your measurement away from your doors, you might just get lucky... and find that you have more room in the middle of the garage.)

Pour two piers an inch less than surrounding floor.
This may pose a problem with bottom of lift arm clearance to the floor. I’m not sure. The other option is to place it evenly between two trusses and raise that portion of the ceiling above the truss level; basically an inverted box.
This is not possible. If you check the instructions for the lift, it sits on a slab. (Either a new flat slab or a repair slab keyed into an older slab.) Pouring a recess into concrete would promote cracking which creates larger issues for lifts. The arm locks also automatically release when the pins hit the floor. If the post were to be recessed, the arm locks might never release.


2 post lifts come in different sizes. If you've bought this thing, can't get out of it and have no other choices, you might be best off to find a competent steel shop that can cut two inches off the posts, one lock distance, or whatever works and re-weld (with a certified welder) the base plates back on.

Keep in mind that you need extra room on top of the lift to stand it up. (As the post tilts up, it will be momentarily taller as the thing pivots on the base plate.) I have less than 1" to spare between my posts and ceiling. Fortunately, I have a sloped floor and was able to stand the posts by the doors and then walk them over to the final positions.
 

thammel

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,236
Location
Maryland
I have 144" ceiling. Bought an Atlas 10k lift - As I recall it can be configured for just a little under the 144" - maybe 142".
 

dave*99

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
4,248
Location
Coastal NJ
My Rotary SPOA10-RA has options to set the installed height. There are 2 sets of holes. Standard height and height lowered by about 4".

The heavy base sections of the posts are about 9' tall. So you can mount them to the floor and then attach the top extensions, provided you slip them over the posts first, then push them up. But if it was a tight fit, I suspect tipping the columns in place would not be the issue. The top beam is a bit higher than the fully assembled column. And it goes on after the columns are stood up.
And I believe at full height, the hydraulic cylinders stick out of the column tops a bit.

If the OP can box into the ceiling, that's perfect. Even better if you lower the safety bar to match your situation.

1740779285109.jpeg
 

gizardlizard

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 29, 2019
Messages
725
Location
Madison, WI
The ability to do this is uncommon. Typically the joists or trusses above would run the short dimension of the building and one would not be able to notch into the ceiling in this direction.


One thing to double check is the measurement of the ceiling at the exact point where you want to put the lift. Garage floors are typically sloped so the measurement will be higher near the doors and much shorter on the end furthest away from the doors. (If you took your measurement away from your doors, you might just get lucky... and find that you have more room in the middle of the garage.)


This is not possible. If you check the instructions for the lift, it sits on a slab. (Either a new flat slab or a repair slab keyed into an older slab.) Pouring a recess into concrete would promote cracking which creates larger issues for lifts. The arm locks also automatically release when the pins hit the floor. If the post were to be recessed, the arm locks might never release.


2 post lifts come in different sizes. If you've bought this thing, can't get out of it and have no other choices, you might be best off to find a competent steel shop that can cut two inches off the posts, one lock distance, or whatever works and re-weld (with a certified welder) the base plates back on.

Keep in mind that you need extra room on top of the lift to stand it up. (As the post tilts up, it will be momentarily taller as the thing pivots on the base plate.) I have less than 1" to spare between my posts and ceiling. Fortunately, I have a sloped floor and was able to stand the posts by the doors and then walk them over to the final positions.
Even if the trusses run the short direction, they are on 24” centers so you still have plenty of side to side wiggle room. On the other side of my garage, the trusses actually run front to back. I almost put my lift on that side and it would have worked. I just didn’t want to be so close to an outer wall of the garage.
 

CraigStu

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
4,012
Location
Blacksburg, Va
Another option is a lift w/o the connector across the top of the posts. You have to drive over a raised plate but just dealing w/ clearance for 2 posts vs 2 posts plus connector may be worth it.
 

Daedalus

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 28, 2009
Messages
5,960
I just punched 2 holes in my roof for the posts and ran the crossbeam right over the ridge. But then, my ceiling was much less than 145".
 
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Tizzy

Active member
Joined
Apr 7, 2020
Messages
43
Location
SW WI
It looks like we’re going to have to pour new pads/piers and box up into the trusses. Not a big deal, just a little more work and a little more money. I had my contractor/best friend out to look things over and we went through all the requirements from the manufacturer and it looks pretty straightforward as to what we’ll have to do.
Thanks guys for your input. I appreciate it.
 

pbon

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Joined
May 14, 2017
Messages
3,498
I like the idea of lowering the cross bar. Contact the lift maker.
 
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