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15" 15mm wrench

Gmonkee

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May 9, 2010
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I am needing and not finding a long 15mm wrench for the belt tensioner when changing the belts. So its invention time.......

I cut 2 cheap 15mm wrenches in half to get the desired ends. The bar is VW spring stock, very stiff and nice to work with.

The question is: weld only the 2 sides of the stub end to the adjoining sides of the bar ? (to prevent a possible weak point where the weld would cross the bar and to reduce changes in the hardness of the bar) or weld at all contact points without fear?

This will be used almost exclusively for serpentine belts so I don't see where a thicker bar will be an advantage. This thinner one will pass almost any obstruction or narrow area with ease.
The yellow one is a 17.5 inch bar with a 1/2" square drive to test how a long bar will pass in the cars I work on. Its made of normal steel so I expect it to bend with use.
Thanks for any tips in advance.
 

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Griff93

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Based on my experience welding to wrenches it doesn't matter. I have a 32mm that is about 18 in long that I welded a piece of barstock to the 32 open end. I have beat on it with hammer for several years without an issue.
 

yellowbox

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Dec 9, 2008
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great idea you have there
you can buy a long wrench for the purpose you need ,15mm zero offset box end long SNAPON wrench
i have a complete set , if you want part # let me know , i have them at work
they work great for belts
 

mrholeshot

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Jun 22, 2010
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I think I rather use my Gearwrench Serp tool. I hate cutting up a wrench for one type of car.
 

kc-steve

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How about just fabricating a wrench for that purpose from cold-rolled steel? I do that for (back up set) bicycle cone wrenches. See attached 17mm. Cold-rolled steel is much harder and difficult to bend than "hot-rolled steel."

Steve
 

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Gmonkee

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I talked the idea over with a friend and read the recent posts about commercial types from the different brands. We decided to build 2 prototypes to test flex, strength and ergonomics. They got welded up today and as I was cleaning the welds on mine a GM truck came in needing a tensioner bearing changed.

It not only started and finished the job, but was done swiftly and without a scare or slip.
This one is 10" long with 15mm open end and 1/2" square ends.
The 17 inch yellow bar has passed a few pulls without bending yet. This does not feel as stiff as the other with spring steel half as thick.
 

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OccupantRJ

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Gmonkee, I would stick to welding alongside the flat piece and not weld across the wrench. I personally think you would have a broader heat affected zone this way, and less chance of the wrench snapping into with the embrittlement in the narrow band across the wrench. Do not quench the wrench in water after welding. Let it bench cool.

"You don't need no stinkin' factory belt tensioner tool!" :bowdown:

RJ
 
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Gmonkee

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RJ, based on experience and some good advice you gave earlier on what type of bar to use, this thing is stiff. We used the VW torsion bar spring and only side welds.
It was slow cooled also. A pair of 15" box end versions are on the board with 1/2" and 3/8" squares if these two samples work a few jobs without failures of any type.
Karma worked out today very well, I had made the tool the very day of the job!

Thank you for the input, today and earlier. It is golden advice.

Brian
 
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Gmonkee

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And here they are. After testing the first out anywhere I could it was time to go ahead. The long ones are 15" and 19" with a 15mm box end welded on.
I really like them in those tight areas around the belts.
 

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eyeboltman

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Wow I would love to have some spring steel stock, I'd make a whole set of 15 inchers! great tool man looks real nice like.

nice job I made on years ago when I could not fine one .
i drill out a 1 x1/4 18 long bar to the socket sixe 0ne end 15mm and 13 mm and welded on the socket work great ! NOW I need to make one like you made just a1/2 shorter than my tool box thanks for the idea :bowdown::bowdown::bounce::thumbup::drool::) eyeboltman
 
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