15 amp plug on 20 amp circuit

[Perfuseme]

this isn't a garage project but i know you guys know the answers. this is actually going to be a line run to power my AV equipment. currently i am running about 7,8 devices on a single undedicated 15 amp outlet with bulky surge protector that i need to get rid of for space saving and wire organization. obviously concerned with this many devices on this line. i need power for a hidden security camera DVR in a closet so while I'm at it I'm going to throw a line down to this AV equipment. there will not be any other devices such as lighting or other items used on this circuit. i plan on using a 20 amp circuit just in case i need something else somewhere later.

can a 15 amp plug be run on a 20 amp circuit?? my question has been partially answered from some other searches. it appears the main difference between 20 amp and 15 amp plugs is the face anatomy and that it is NOT a big deal tho the opposite seems to be a no-no. however, the plug i plan on using is ALSO a surge protector and not a regular plug shown at this link:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U70SP6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

i plan on running 1 of these to the DVR and 4 of these in a series in a 4 gang recessed wall plate seen at this link:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FMVQBM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

obviously a 15 amp circuit will do because that is what it is currently on anyway and no breakers trip but i like the ability for further expansion down the road afforded by the 20 amp. so should i just "keep it simple stupid" and run a 15 amp line and call it a day or do you think its acceptable to run this 15 amp surge protector/plug on a 20 amp circuit?? 14/2 cable is cheaper for sure!

thanks in advance

 

[plow]

NO!!!! It will blow up!

 

[plow]

Ok, I'm full of it. You're gtg dude.

 

[Perfuseme]

Yeh, I expect it is fine tho not an electrician. None of my other 2 add on circuits have burnt my house down yet, but the game ain't over. Is it going to meet code?? Well...U'd have to ask an electrician!

 

[davetulk]

15A "duplex"(Standard outlets with two plug ins) outlets are rated for 20A pass thru. Thus they are perfectly legal and safe for use on a 20A circuit.

If you have a single outlet (only one plug in) on a dedicated circuit, then you should use a 20A outlet or a 15A breaker. Other than certain dedicated things (Fridge) you rarely have simplex (single) outlet they have duplex.

Because you cannot plug a single 20amp device into a 15amp receptacle the expectation is you cannot draw over the 15 amps. With that said power strips possibly could load more, but the strip should only be rated at max 15amp with over current protection.

Off course the wire still needs to be 12ga min for a 20amp circuit.

NEC 210

That is national code.....your local may have amendments.

Dave

 

[Rockford]

15 amp outlets on 20 amp branch circuits is the norm. It's conductor you need to be concerned with and be certain to match #14 gauge wire on 15 amp circuits and #12 gauge wire on 20 amp ones- that's copper, by the way.

Personally, I hate 14 gauge wire and here's why. I'm really particular about tight and secure connections and therefore really bear down on all screws- outlet devices and breakers and 14 gauge wire just seems to yield too much and get weak at the point where it's flattened by the screw. Try it out for yourself on a piece of scrap wire. Bend it back and forth like can easily happen down the road by yourself or others. You'd be surprised how easily 14 gauge breaks.

 

[Perfuseme]

Yes, definitely using 12/2 wire. There will be things like router, tuner, PS3, cable box, IR remote blaster, TV, DVR on that circuit. Some of which will be running nearly constantly. 20 amp is obviously enough but it's not beyond reason that I won't tie into it later for something else

 

[Norcal]

15 amp outlets on 20 amp branch circuits is the norm. It's conductor you need to be concerned with and be certain to match #14 gauge wire on 15 amp circuits and #12 gauge wire on 20 amp ones- that's copper, by the way.

Personally, I hate 14 gauge wire and here's why. I'm really particular about tight and secure connections and therefore really bear down on all screws- outlet devices and breakers and 14 gauge wire just seems to yield too much and get weak at the point where it's flattened by the screw. Try it out for yourself on a piece of scrap wire. Bend it back and forth like can easily happen down the road by yourself or others. You'd be surprised how easily 14 gauge breaks.

There are torque specifications for wiring devices provided by the manufacturer, & per the NEC manufacturers instructions are to be followed to comply with code requirements. Too much torque is as bad as a loose connection, the hairy ape method of cranking the screws down as tight as you can is not good.

 

[scoob8000]

Have you looked at whole house surge protectors? They're not a whole lot more than the one you linked...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...House-Surge-Protector-R00-51110-SRG/202993881

Just need to install it at your panel and wire it up to a new double pole 20a breaker.

 

[Perfuseme]

Of course I haven't...lol...that's what you guys are for! I have heard of them but the idea thought was buried away. That's probably a good idea. Say I did do a whole house surge protector....would these protected outlets add additional security or waste of money?? They are $35 each. But well worth it as I lost a MAC hard drive in a storm a few months back but nothing else in the house was damaged.

Have you looked at whole house surge protectors? They're not a whole lot more than the one you linked...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...House-Surge-Protector-R00-51110-SRG/202993881

Just need to install it at your panel and wire it up to a new double pole 20a breaker.

 

[bzinsky]

A lot of people look at a million things plugged into one outlet as being dangerous or not so smart. As long as the connections and plugs are solid, it really doesn't matter at all. You could have 50 different things plugged into one outlet and use less electricity than a space heater.

Several years ago I had high electric bills and bought one of those basic wattage testers at home depot to test everything plugged into outlets. I had a TV, DVR, powered subwoofer, receiver, blu-ray player, home theater PC, and a lamp all plugged into one outlet. I turned everything on, cranked up the stereo, and the entire setup only pulled about 700 watts. It was fairly powerful equipment too, I was surprised.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

That gang box is 4.8" deep. What kind of a wall are you putting in? a 2x4 wall? If so, it won't fit.

If you gang the outlets together, don't back stab them. Either pig tail them or back wire them. I learned that on this Forum.

I thought I've learned on this Forum that if you have a 20amp circuit (20amp breaker and wiring for 20amp ... 12/2?) that the first outlet on the circuit had to be a 20 amp outlet and all those downstream could be a 15amp.

Have you added up the amperage draw of all the devices? The manuals should list how many amps they draw. I've learned on this Forum that you should have continuous load of more than 80% of the circuit's capacity (15amps x 80% = 12amps max draw). One of the sparkys will confirm.

 

[pattenp]

I thought I've learned on this Forum that if you have a 20amp circuit (20amp breaker and wiring for 20amp ... 12/2?) that the first outlet on the circuit had to be a 20 amp outlet and all those downstream could be a 15amp.

All outlets can be 15A.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The OP is misusing the term "plug". What is really meant is "outlet" or more strictly, "receptacle".

A plug is the male prong ends found on a cord.

On a 20 amp circuit, you may install 15 amp receptacles, so long as there is more than one. A standard, common, duplex receptacle is considered TWO receptacles, so you can install one duplex and meet the requirements of the code.

I thought I've learned on this Forum that if you have a 20amp circuit (20amp breaker and wiring for 20amp ... 12/2?) that the first outlet on the circuit had to be a 20 amp outlet and all those downstream could be a 15amp.

Have you added up the amperage draw of all the devices? The manuals should list how many amps they draw. I've learned on this Forum that you should have continuous load of more than 80% of the circuit's capacity (15amps x 80% = 12amps max draw). One of the sparkys will confirm.

No, they all may be 15 amp rated. No 20 amp ones are needed unless you install one lone single receptacle on the 20 amp circuit and nothing else, then it needs to be a NEMA 5-20 design.

The 80% rule is certainly good to go by, but not a requirement except on continuous loads. Continuous loads are those which normally run for 3 hrs or more, and certain specific loads designated by the NEC, which include all lighting and heating loads (including water heating), and a few others mentioned throughout the code.

Charles

 

[Speedy Petey]

Personally, I hate 14 gauge wire and here's why. I'm really particular about tight and secure connections and therefore really bear down on all screws- outlet devices and breakers and 14 gauge wire just seems to yield too much and get weak at the point where it's flattened by the screw. Try it out for yourself on a piece of scrap wire. Bend it back and forth like can easily happen down the road by yourself or others. You'd be surprised how easily 14 gauge breaks.

I have seen some odd reasons for not liking #14, mostly it's just the flawed "bigger is always better" mentality, but this one is actually funny.

Dude, there is NO WAY you are flattening #14cu with a device screw. The screw will strip or break long before you can flatten the conductor. And as the highly qualified Norcal says, if you really are tightening it that much you are doing it seriously wrong.

 

[Perfuseme]

The box is deep! I have one similar to that now. I did notice the 4.8" but in the reviews I noticed a guy said it barely fits with standard walls. Good eye tho!! I may run into a problem with it.

I have not added all the watts up on it but I know it's been tuning fine for a few years now on a 15 amp circuit that also continues on into the bedroom. So I know a dedicated 20 amp will certainly power it.

I have also seen that the first plug should be 20amp but the consensus on here seems to be that it doesn't have to be.

That gang box is 4.8" deep. What kind of a wall are you putting in? a 2x4 wall? If so, it won't fit.

If you gang the outlets together, don't back stab them. Either pig tail them or back wire them. I learned that on this Forum.

I thought I've learned on this Forum that if you have a 20amp circuit (20amp breaker and wiring for 20amp ... 12/2?) that the first outlet on the circuit had to be a 20 amp outlet and all those downstream could be a 15amp.

Have you added up the amperage draw of all the devices? The manuals should list how many amps they draw. I've learned on this Forum that you should have continuous load of more than 80% of the circuit's capacity (15amps x 80% = 12amps max draw). One of the sparkys will confirm.