16x8 Door framing sizing

[wack01]

Hi first time poster
I'm planing to build a detached garage I have 25x18.5 of buildable space.
The garage door has to be on the 18.5 side, will it fit after the proper framing?

I got a great deal on a like new insulated garage door for 150, and would like to use it. Thanks for the help I'm located in Arizona

 

[pattenp]

Usually the rough opening is 3" larger than the door size. That only leave you about 1' on each side which is kind of thin.

 

[StingRay]

Most manufacturers list all of the info required for use of their doors on their web sites.

 

[Falcon67]

Clopay's basic garage door specs shows the rough opening at the door size, with 10~12" headroom requirement and 3 3/4" min side clearance. The door stops on the framing reduce the opening by 1 1/2" across and 3/4" in height. Best to find the manual for your door and read it.

 

[Zeke]

A 16' x 8' sectional garage door fits in a 16 x 8 finished opening or just slightly smaller, never larger. You can use the side jambs as jack studs to help support the header if they are placed on metal feet. There will be another jack on the sill plate and a king next to that. That's 9 inches of lumber in 18 inches of space. By the time you frame out the corner you will be almost full and not much shear value. A post with a hold down would help and a strong wall would be better.

 

[pattenp]

To me the issue is not that the door won't fit on the 18,5' wall, but you end up with such narrow wall ends you virtually have minimal wall strength to prevent racking.

Edit: Zeke has the right idea using the strong wall.

 

[upndown]

Plenty of room for door! Most openings are framed right at door size, a little under is OK. A little over is not good. Using 2x6 framing for vertical and horizontal jambs, still leaves you with 9" side room.

where in AZ are you located?

 

[JimVonBaden]

To me the issue is not that the door won't fit on the 18,5' wall, but you end up with such narrow wall ends you virtually have minimal wall strength to prevent racking.

Edit: Zeke has the right idea using the strong wall.

I'm not that familiar with framing standards for this, but wouldn't a properly structured back wall and a properly structured roof framing system compensate for a lack of front sidewalls?

 

[LB-1911]

Hi first time poster
I'm planing to build a detached garage I have 25x18.5 of buildable space.
The garage door has to be on the 18.5 side, will it fit after the proper framing?

I got a great deal on a like new insulated garage door for 150, and would like to use it. Thanks for the help I'm located in Arizona

You need to check with the AHJ (authority having jurisdiction) as to the requirements concerning shear walls.

If you were to check online your county or city may have this type on information available.

 

[Kevin54]

Usually a garage door size is the size of the opening, or any that I have dealt with. Then you have your trim with the weather seal that closes it off. You never want the opening larger than the call out for the door size, but you can go smaller than the call out for the door size.

 

[readhead]

Needs more shear between the corner and the door. Either what Zeke suggested or a moment frame.
Without the shear in the door wall the twisting force on that wall can overcome the diaphram in the roof.
By the time you do all that because you already have a door, it would be cheaper to buy a smaller door and install shear panel on the normal framing.

 

[pattenp]

Yeah.. you'd think so. I've seen some garages with thin end walls at the door that didn't stay too straight. But that could have been because of overall weakness in the structure.

I'm not that familiar with framing standards for this, but wouldn't a properly structured back wall and a properly structured roof framing system compensate for a lack of front sidewalls? :dunno

 

[wack01]

Thanks for the information guys I wanted to make sure the door would be structurally sound, but from the consensuses it seems to be that I should sell the door and get a smaller one.
I'm just in the planing phase I plan to start in October when it cools down again.
It will be a 110 soon.

 

[Zeke]

I'm not that familiar with framing standards for this, but wouldn't a properly structured back wall and a properly structured roof framing system compensate for a lack of front sidewalls?

It all works together to form a structure that will not blow over or suffer damage in an earthquake. There is weakness enough having 90% of a wall be an opening. Proper strengthening is needed at the corners. But I see what you're thinking. Horizontal shear would help here. It's like the difference between a cardboard box that is folded closed v. one that is taped closed.