18V DeWalt Sawzall busted shell

[penright]

I have tried searching for the shell online. Most parts website have them "Discontinued". When I find something on Amazon, it 20V. Also the parts talked about V1, V2, etc. But I could not tell the differance by the pictures. I can try glue, but I don't have too much hope in that.
Any thoughts, other than by new. I have a huge colection of 18V tools.

 

[southalabama]

Find a beater on eBay.

 

[penright]

Find a beater on eBay.

In the past when I took a shot in the dark, my band of brothers came through when I thought it was impossible.

 

[liliysdad]

Its dead, Jim.

Make the 20v jump, use adapters if you are hell bent on keeping the 18v tools.

 

[mike93lx]

Its dead, Jim.

Make the 20v jump, use adapters if you are hell bent on keeping the 18v tools.

This.

You'll be quite happy with the performance improvement

 

[PelicanPines]

UV Glue is pretty good. It's the same stuff your dentist uses to attach his teeth into your mouth.

 

[penright]

Its dead, Jim.

lol
Maybe Scotty can get her back.

ke the 20v jump, use adapters if you are hell bent on keeping the 18v tools.

I have had them for over 30 years. I have looked at adapters every time a battery dies. It also crosses my mind every time Lowes puts DeWalt on a flash sale. It was just hard to pull the trigger when they were working. When I tested the "spouse waters", I quoted back to her what I heard her saying, .... "Buy once, Cry once", she said yep.

 

[JRC3]

I have a whole one you can have if you want to come pick it up.

 

[penright]

Has anyone ever used the warranty thing on Ebay? I found this $30 including shipping. I would be shocked if anything worked, and really all I need is the housing. I have to admit this has me curious.

 

[cvairwerks]

Got here: https://www.toolservicenet.com/
Type in your model number in the search box. Where it asks for Type or version, it's on the label that has the part number on your tool. The when it finally pops up the info, hit the little pdf button on the left side for the artwork, find the item number you need and then scroll down in the right side parts box to find it.

 

[penright]

I have a whole one you can have if you want to come pick it up.

That would be a road trip, it would be tempting if I had some Blues Brothers music.

 

[mike93lx]

Has anyone ever used the warranty thing on Ebay? I found this $30 including shipping. I would be shocked if anything worked, and really all I need is the housing. I have to admit this has me curious.

Don't buy extended warranties. It's not worth it

 

[JRC3]

That would be a road trip, it would be tempting if I had some Blues Brothers music.

 

[penright]

Don't buy extended warranties. It's not worth it

As a general rule, I would not, my question is would they warranty it, and if so, how? As I said, if I could get the case out of it, it would be worth the price even if it does not work. I would do the warranty just to see what they say.

 

[mike93lx]

As a general rule, I would not, my question is would they warranty it, and if so, how? As I said, if I could get the case out of it, it would be worth the price even if it does not work. I would do the warranty just to see what they say.

Is it listed as non functioning, if so, that sounds unscrupulous to me and a waste of $5

 

[liliysdad]

Has anyone ever used the warranty thing on Ebay? I found this $30 including shipping. I would be shocked if anything worked, and really all I need is the housing. I have to admit this has me curious.

They only bring $20-30 at the pawn shop when they do work. Why mess with something like that?

 

[toolenthusiast]

I can try glue, but I don't have too much hope in that.

Just about the only plastic that doesn’t glue well is polyethylene. And I guarantee that isn’t polyethylene.

Take it apart. Clean it up with isopropyl alcohol (or simply soap and water). Slather the joint in epoxy. Screw it back together and clamp it overnight.

Or the hack-y way to do it would be to wash it down, then clamp it, then just absolutely flood the outside with glue so it has a sort of band-aid over top of the split.

 

[penright]

it listed as non functioning, if so, that sounds unscrupulous to me and a waste of $5

Unless I mis-read it say it is fully operational.
I would not do it if I saw it was non-functional.

 

[mike93lx]

Unless I mis-read it say it is fully operational.
I would not do it if I saw it was non-functional.

Got it.

They would almost certainly just give to the value of a replacement back, after making you jump through enough hoops that would make 90% of people just give up, including making you take it to a "certified" repair center that will charge you a $50-100 deposit to diagnose.

Its a waste of $5

 

[liliysdad]

It's eBay. If the buyer advertises it as "fully functional," and it's not, that's a guaranteed full price refund. "Item not as described" is the single surest way to get your money back on that platform.

 

[mike93lx]

It's eBay. If the buyer advertises it as "fully functional," and it's not, that's a guaranteed full price refund. "Item not as described" is the single surest way to get your money back on that platform.

But that's separate from the additional warranty coverage

 

[liliysdad]

But that's separate from the additional warranty coverage

Absolutely....I should have continued by saying that the warranty is always a bad idea, but especially so on eBay, and double especially so on an obsolete tool that is a waste of money anyway.

 

[charbar]

I agree that it is not worth the time or the hassle to try to keep that thing running. Buy a 20v one with batteries and charger and be done. Then you can get an adapter for the rest of your 18v stuff because after you use the 20v battery you will wonder why you ever tried to keep trudging along with the 18v batteries. As your 18v tools die you can slowly replace them with 20v versions. Most of the time you can buy the bare tool and get a free battery with it.

Do they even make the 18v batteries anymore?
The 20v line is superior in absolutely every way. Its like trying to keep your 1984 Chevette with mangled fenders and no available parts running down the road instead of getting a new Corvette for not much more money by the time its all said and done.

 

[cosmokenney]

Try some ABS (pipe) glue in a small spot. Like a tack weld. If it holds, split the "tack" then glue the rest.

 

[rust in the eye]

Just about the only plastic that doesn’t glue well is polyethylene. And I guarantee that isn’t polyethylene.

Take it apart. Clean it up with isopropyl alcohol (or simply soap and water). Slather the joint in epoxy. Screw it back together and clamp it overnight.

Or the hack-y way to do it would be to wash it down, then clamp it, then just absolutely flood the outside with glue so it has a sort of band-aid over top of the split.

Perhaps a bit less glue but use a couple of long 10-32 screws right through where the old attachment was, the main body looks intact.
I'd not be spending much $ on this. The minute you get spendy it will die.

 

[penright]

Perhaps a bit less glue but use a couple of long 10-32 screws right through where the old attachment was

Good idea. Sometimes it is as much the challenge as it is the money. Don't get me wrong, I love saving money also. One reason I enjoy Vintage Machinery, Cutting Edge Engineering, etc YouTube videos is when they fix something. Keith brazes a tooth back on a gear and machines it back. Or Kurtis welding up and then align boring. Will take a look at your suggested fix and report back.

I'd not be spending much $ on this. The minute you get spendy it will die.

Every time I buy a new battery, I figure that is what is going to happen. That is why I am always looking at 20V adapters.
My 18V system, off the top of my head. Impact Drill, Drill, Impact driver, 1/2" Impact, 4 1/2" grinder, light, circular saw, angle drill, and Sawzall. I bought them used as a kit long ago. I don't think I have ever used the angle drill. The light and grinder eats battery, so I use 110V for those. I do use the Sawzall, and both drills, both impacts drivers a lot. The circular saw ocasanaly.
Another reason I started hanging on to them is waiting for the next voltage jump. I understand volts x amps, why would they just jump 2V? Could marketing have something to do with it? Maybe some? I keep thinking they will come out with the next new line and the 20V people will feel the 18V people's pain.

 

[liliysdad]

I keep thinking they will come out with the next new line and the 20V people will feel the 18V people's pain.

There are like four "18V people" left on earth, including you.

 

[mike93lx]

Good idea. Sometimes it is as much the challenge as it is the money. Don't get me wrong, I love saving money also. One reason I enjoy Vintage Machinery, Cutting Edge Engineering, etc YouTube videos is when they fix something. Keith brazes a tooth back on a gear and machines it back. Or Kurtis welding up and then align boring. Will take a look at your suggested fix and report back.


Every time I buy a new battery, I figure that is what is going to happen. That is why I am always looking at 20V adapters.
My 18V system, off the top of my head. Impact Drill, Drill, Impact driver, 1/2" Impact, 4 1/2" grinder, light, circular saw, angle drill, and Sawzall. I bought them used as a kit long ago. I don't think I have ever used the angle drill. The light and grinder eats battery, so I use 110V for those. I do use the Sawzall, and both drills, both impacts drivers a lot. The circular saw ocasanaly.
Another reason I started hanging on to them is waiting for the next voltage jump. I understand volts x amps, why would they just jump 2V? Could marketing have something to do with it? Maybe some? I keep thinking they will come out with the next new line and the 20V people will feel the 18V people's pain.

Until a new battery chemistry tech comes out, I doubt Dewalt will get rid of the 20v line

The 20v labeling is 100% marketing. It's the max pack voltage, but it's a nominal 18v. The major difference is the switch to lithium

 

[penright]

It's the max pack voltage, but it's a nominal 18v.

Then the adapters are just mechanical. I was wondering if they had a built-in buck converter, but the current that is involved the price didn't match. Interesting.

There are like four "18V people" left on earth, including you.

Does that make us classics? I get cheaper insurance on my Mustang. I wonder if Hagerty has health insurance.

 

[mike93lx]

Then the adapters are just mechanical. I was wondering if they had a built-in buck converter, but the current that is involved the price didn't match. Interesting.

Yes, that's correct.

The 20v line doesn't "exist" outside the US. Those tools are the same as the US, but are all labeled as 18v. And 60v flex volt is 54v.

 

[shoot summ]

FB Marketplace, there is a set of 3 tools in OKC for $75 that has been up for 3 weeks, bet you could talk him out of the reciprocating saw for $20.

 

[shoot summ]

I'll add that I have a number of 18v tools still but use the adapter sled for the 20v batteries, they work great.

 

[Boilerhouse]

Your story is similar to mine. Up until a few months ago, I was convinced I would be using the old Dewalt kit with 18V NiCad for years to come. Then the 20 year old drill died, and Dewalt stopped supporting the batteries. So I bought the 20V drill/driver combo and was pretty much sold. Bought a yellow 20V blower for getting leaves off the driveway and it was awesome. Then came a beast of a 1/2 inch yellow impact gun.

If you were closer I would happily give you my old recip saw. I really only found 4 tools to be functional in that kit, the drill, the driver, the radio and the flashlight. The grinder, circular saw, and recip saw, in my opinion were damn near useless, unlike the current 20V offerings.

 

[JRC3]

Just don't leave the battery in the adapter and locked on the tool. It WILL drain the battery completely to where you'll worry about damaging the battery. Maybe newer versions of the adapter prevent this, mine was bought a year or two after release. Using the adapter is pretty clunky and obstructive.

Once you switch to the 20v platform you'll be amazed how you ever used those big, weak, heavy 18v tools. Back then I hated the brick 18v drills so much I went out and bought a 14.4 to use as a driver. I will post a pic later to compare sizes. The newest 20v driver is even smaller than my previous 20v driver.

Home Depot has some great deals sometimes on Dewalt, especially around the holidays.

 

[Steve_P]

I gave mine to Habitat a few months ago, along with a few drills and lights. I paid $130 for the 20V reciprocating saw on a price drop in November. As others have said, give up on the 18V stuff; the 20V brushless stuff is just insanely better, and DeWalt doesn't even support the 18V batteries anymore.

Holding onto the 18V stuff makes as much sense as wanting to keep that 1980s Dustbuster going.

 

[penright]

Home Depot has some great deals sometimes on Dewalt, especially around the holidays.

That is when I was tempted the most. What is funny, Lowes had a flash sell on their 14v. When I first saw it, I laughed my head off and would have posted it because I thought the timing was too good. Then I noticed it was 14v. If I was in construction where I used them every day, I would have switched long ago, but in my home shop, it's hard while they are working.

 

[jayemm]

Maybe "screw it and glue it" with some metal tie straps to bridge the housing pieces and epoxy as suggested above. Or for a nuclear level fix wrap it fiberglas cloth and resin in addition. Or just the easier way out with a used housing. Doesn't Dewalt offer adapters to adapt older style batteries if you buy a new one that takes the new style batteries.

 

[decableguy2000]

Just go to Lowes, Saw on sale

 

[JradM]

Glue it or figure out a way to use a screw. I wouldn't spend $10 fixing an antique reciprocating saw like that. It would be easy, or not at all (but I would actually try to fix it if it was working and I had a use for it).

On the other hand, it would be hard to convince me even a $30 spend on a Ni-cd tool was good value. The last reciprocating saw I bought was a Ridgid Octane - for $50.

I realize Dewalt 20v is being suggested because that would let you use your new battery with your old tools. However, why not just grab a Ryobi the next time it's on sale. You obviously don't "need" Dewalt tools - the Ryobi will blow your existing ni-cd tool out of the water.

 

[NORDFORD]

I sell tools and equipment for a living. I’ve got a pallet of “junk” tools. I’ll take a look. If I’ve got something, I’ll send it to you.