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18x18 or 20x20 garage

amishman

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Jan 6, 2006
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579
Location
Northern California, USA
Hi, I am about to have a metal garage installed on my property. I live on a knoll top so limited space but a 18x18 or 20x20 will fit. I am torn between getting an 18x18x10 with 12pitch roof (so I can have a 2nd story) or a 20x20x12 with 3/12 roof so it is tall enough to lift a car and work underneath it standing up but I lose the 2nd story. Both will be a metal style garage as I can't afford a wooden one. I have always wanted a shop to work on my VWs and always like the idea I would have a small office on the 2nd story I could store my what nots, have a desk, and all my VW magazines, etc... A 12 pitch roof would give me a 9 foot ceiling height in the middle and about a 8 foot swath down the middle of the garage for one long 8x18 office space. Have a nice window in the front to look out over my driveway, etc... Problem is 18x18 is only room for one car but I could live with that. A 10 foot side wall would allow me to use a small lift and I could sit under the car to work on it rather than on my back. So, that is option #1. The 2nd is a basic no frills metal building with only a 3 pitch roof so it looks blah but offers a 12 foot sidewall so I could get a larger lift one day and stand under the car to work on it. Con is the building is plain looking and will not match my home as my home has steep roof so the 18x18 with 12 pitch will look more like it was part of the home than a generic garage.

Anyway, just looking for advise. The 18x18x10 will set me back almost $14K for it all. The 20x20x12 3 pitch will be about $10K.

What do you all think.

tj

:headscrat
 
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Ryan Wilke

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Mar 12, 2006
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Michigan
Go with the 18x18,,,,,it is the style and look that best suits you.
If you're not happy with it, why do it?

RW :beer:
 

Charles (in GA)

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Jan 11, 2006
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50 mi south of Atlanta
You cannot have too much space, and remember, you are not the last person why will live there or use that garage, think sellable. To me, an 18x18 is a large lawnmower storage shed. While you may have VWs that fit, the next guy who likes your house may have something much bigger, or you might take a liking to something larger yourself.

In any case, big is better, think creative.

Charles
 

StingRay

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Jan 26, 2006
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Location
Saskatoon,SK. Canada
An 18 ft long garage is really only about 17 ft inside. Alot of vehicles plain won't fit. My last garage was a 21 x 21 and some pickups and suv's wouldn't fit it. Make your building as large as your space and budget will permit.
 

MillerSpeed

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Jan 8, 2006
Messages
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Location
Georgia
If those are your only 2 options Id say say go 18x18 with the style that matches your house. the extra 2 feet in either direction with the 20x20 isnt going to let you squeeze in another car or anything. Plus having an office is nice cause it lets you get all the car mags and books and catalogs and junk out of the house.
 

SCOOTER

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Mar 30, 2006
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226
Location
Washington
I say 20x20 with a second story....Can't cost much more than 18x18...or as other have noted..as big as you can go.....Mine is tooo small and I'm not even done with the foundation yet....
 

JMURiz

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NoVA
I agree, if there is a way to do the 20x20 with the style of the 18x18, that'd be the way to go. I think with a 10' sidewall and a highlift garage door you can use a lift. The office/storage on the 2nd level will be great to have also. Best of luck, have any pictures of the proposals?
 
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amishman

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Northern California, USA
JMURiz said:
I agree, if there is a way to do the 20x20 with the style of the 18x18, that'd be the way to go. I think with a 10' sidewall and a highlift garage door you can use a lift. The office/storage on the 2nd level will be great to have also. Best of luck, have any pictures of the proposals?

No pictures but when I get the job done, I will for sure post here. I have decided to go with the 18x18. I wish I could do the 20x20 2 story but just do not have it in the budget. It added another $1500 and I just have no place to get the extra $$. Saving for longer would also not help as it is always fate the longer the $$ stays in the bank to do the job, something comes up and we slowly swindle money out of the account and I end up getting no shop. So, better do it NOW before the money goes bye bye. The 18x18 will cost me $13900 for it all and the 20x20 would be well over $15K and as it is, my budget was only for $13500 and I am having to swindle the extra $400 to make my $13900. :)

Fortunately, my older VWs are short. My Thing is only 13' long and 6' wide and the Single Cab is 14' long x 6' so the 18 depth is OK. My Westy will be a stretch to get in there but I will have a 10 foot sidewall and the door will be 8 to 9 tall so I can get in OK. I will basically use as a single car shop. Maybe one day I can put a carport right to the side of it so I can give my 2nd car some winter protection. I could day that myself.

Now, let's hope it all works out smooth. I have to figure out stairs to get up to the 2nd story myself. Maybe doing from the outside would be best to save precious room.

Thanks for all your tips to all.

tj
 

Der Bugmeister

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Dec 29, 2005
Messages
445
Outside steps sounds like a good idea - especially if you plan the entire garage for possible horizontal expansion in the future in such a way that the shop spaces become integral.

Are you able to do much of the work yourself? That could save you some dollars along the way. Also, if you are able to put off some of the finishing costs until later, that could help you find that extra $1500.

One thing you need to be aware of is that projects never come in on budget - if you're that tight to the wire, plan ahead for contingencies!

Wouldn't mind seeing some photos of your VWs...I've got 4 Beetles myself...
 
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amishman

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Northern California, USA
Der Bugmeister said:
Outside steps sounds like a good idea - especially if you plan the entire garage for possible horizontal expansion in the future in such a way that the shop spaces become integral.

Are you able to do much of the work yourself? That could save you some dollars along the way. Also, if you are able to put off some of the finishing costs until later, that could help you find that extra $1500.

One thing you need to be aware of is that projects never come in on budget - if you're that tight to the wire, plan ahead for contingencies!

Wouldn't mind seeing some photos of your VWs...I've got 4 Beetles myself...

Have to have it all professionally done. I DO NOT trust myself on a 12 pitch roof. :shocking: That would be scary. Plus, I have no clue on doing this kind of work and there is a certain point I draw the line as a DYI kind of guy. If I could kill myself, I normally have it professionally done. :bounce:

This $13900 is basically concrete, metal garage, install, and material. Only has one window up on 2nd story and two slider doors with windows at the front. No frills, just squeaking in to get it built. As it is, I will have to do stairs myself later and also lay plywood down up top to make a floor so that part allowed me to get this shell done for now.

My VWs can be seen at my web page:

http://www.vwhippie.com

I own 4 VWs and one Nissan Xterra. My VWs are a 1960 Single Cab, 1973 Thing, 1989 Syncro Westfalia 4x4 Camper, and a 2001 TDI Beetle.

I am somewhat a VW nut!

tj
 

Grim Reaper

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Mar 1, 2006
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47
Location
Atlanta
StingRay said:
An 18 ft long garage is really only about 17 ft inside. Alot of vehicles plain won't fit. My last garage was a 21 x 21 and some pickups and suv's wouldn't fit it. Make your building as large as your space and budget will permit.
Yep. My Suburban I don't think would fit in a 18. Unless you are only ever going to work on small cars its just not enough. Mine is 19 now but about to take the wall between the store room and the main garage down to get a few more feet. My 70 LeMans is 4 inch away from the garage door and about 17 inches off the wall at the crown of the bumper right now. Ideally 25ft would be a comfortable depth that would allow some storage on the front wall.
20ft width will let you get the doors open on both vehicles both sides.

I gave up on two cars in my 19deep by 21 wide. Ran a bench down one wall. Leaves enough space to comfortably have one car that I can work on and get the doors open. Once that back wall is out it will work out good where I can get my Suburban in there to work on and still get the garage door shut.
 
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amishman

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Jan 6, 2006
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Northern California, USA
Well, I have gone ahead and done it. I have put my deposit down on an 18x18x10 metal garage with a steep 12 pitch roof. They tell me engineering approval will be about 4 to 6 weeks and then I will get my docs to take to the county to get a permit and start that process. So, I am guessing, if all goes well, I will have my garage/shop in October. I am excited.

I chose the 18x18 so I could get my 2nd story for future office. Future in that I have to save up and get the plyboard to make my floor up there and also, create some stairs to get up their. But, at least it is do-able. I figure one day I will also connect to it a lean too shelter, 12 foot wide x 18 deep, to park another car in their out of the elements. That way I can do in stages. For now, I just need a one car shop with elbow room to work on my cars. I will move in what I need and the rest will be in my driveway or two car garage.

So, as time comes, and things progress, I will post again. At least I have the ball rolling.

Yeah!

tj
 

autoist

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Gurley, Alabama
Make certain they're going to 'stick build' that roof with rafters/joists that are strong enough to hold the 2nd floor addition..they'll probably want to use 2x4 trusses that eliminate any future use of that space.
 

Stuart in MN

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Sep 8, 2005
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Minneapolis
I agree, make sure the roof structure is built to support a second floor...if it's stick built, the floor joists need to be sized for the load. If they use trusses, they can go with what's called an attic truss which will also support a floor. Regular trusses will use 2x4s like Autoist said, and they aren't designed to hold any load.
 
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amishman

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Jan 6, 2006
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579
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Northern California, USA
Stuart in MN said:
I agree, make sure the roof structure is built to support a second floor...if it's stick built, the floor joists need to be sized for the load. If they use trusses, they can go with what's called an attic truss which will also support a floor. Regular trusses will use 2x4s like Autoist said, and they aren't designed to hold any load.

This is an all metal building so no 2x4. The drawings he showed me have extra floor support to handle a load for the 2nd floor. Mind you it is not for storing tons of heavy stuff. I told him it would be me, a desk, and some collectible items, but not boxes of heavy books and parts or anything like that. The drawings showed extra metal supports down the length of the building and about 12 wide. The 2nd story is boxed off with metal support on the floor and metal support at 3 foot from each corner going down the length of the building. The proposal has to go to his engineer so we will see what comes back if he has to do something different.

Will keep you posted.

tj
 
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