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1940s Craftsman Mohawk Drill Press 103.0305

faultymechanics

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Franconia
Hi!

I recently acquired a 1940s Craftsman 103.0305, "Mohawk" drill press.

Everything is in "working" order though it needed a lot of cleanup. I wire wheeled the top of the base and the adjustable plate. I also tried my best to clean the rest of the press up with disassembling it.

I lubricated most of the moving parts with 3-in-1 oil, not sure if that was a good choice?

My main question is, should the drill be "automatically" returning back up after I pull level lever down to drop the bit into whatever I'm drilling?

On my father's old Buffalo drill press I can let go of the handle and it will shoot right back up, I'm wondering if the craftsman is just still a bit crusty, or if I'm supposed to manually push it back up.....hopefully this made sense.

I'm also missing one piece, the Mohawk cover. Pictures to come!
 
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Rileysan

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Hi!

I recently acquired a 1940s Craftsman 103.0305, "Mohawk" drill press.

Everything is in "working" order though it needed a lot of cleanup. I wire wheeled the top of the base and the adjustable plate. I also tried my best to clean the rest of the press up with disassembling it.

I lubricated most of the moving parts with 3-in-1 oil, not sure if that was a good choice?

My main question is, should the drill be "automatically" returning back up after I pull level lever down to drop the bit into whatever I'm drilling?

On my father's old Buffalo drill press I can let go of the handle and it will shoot right back up, I'm wondering if the craftsman is just still a bit crusty, or if I'm supposed to manually push it back up.....hopefully this made sense.

I'm also missing one piece, the Mohawk cover. Pictures to come!

Yes, the spindle should return to the top when you let go of the handle. The spring is either missing or broke.

Try posting to this thread, even though it appears dedicated to the next generation King Seeley drill press. There are some really sharp people here who have gone through every variant of that drill press and will be happy to offer advice.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=227480


Good luck!

Brian
 

bmwrd0

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If you worked on the handle return spring at all, it might just be wound a little too loosely for the automatic return. A pretty simple fix.
 
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faultymechanics

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If you worked on the handle return spring at all, it might just be wound a little too loosely for the automatic return. A pretty simple fix.

I didn't do any work to the press besides cleaning the sludge off and attempting to lubricate it.

That being said it does seem to "try" to return a little bit? I'm wondering if the spring is either loose or just crusty? I imagine if I'm getting a little return that the spring isn't entirely broken.
 

JoCoSawdust

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That press was sold in the catalogs in 41 and 42, you've got almost 80 years of accumulated **** inside it so no surprise it doesn't return as it should. If nothing else it needs to be disassembled, cleaned really good, lubed and put back together. Short of that you're ******* up a rope trying to get that machine to perform correctly. Be careful with that spring cover, it's pot metal and the tabs can break pretty easy if you try prying it off. Turn it a 1/4 turn counter-clockwise and pull it away from the drill. I wouldn't try winding the spring any tighter till after a good inside-out cleaning of the drill. If the spring isn't broken already (and it doesn't sound like it is if you're getting a partial return) it'll definitely break if you wind it tight and make it fight against 7+decades of crud. Do it right and you won't be disappointed, it's a good solid press.
 

JoCoSawdust

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http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/51/1830.pdf

This is the one I was looking for in the first place. This is for an Atlas made press but if you read down under "Adjustments and Controls" it'll tell you how to adjust the spring tension of the return. Again, I wouldn't tighten that spring up till after a good tear down, clean up and lube. Good luck!
 
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faultymechanics

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That press was sold in the catalogs in 41 and 42, you've got almost 80 years of accumulated **** inside it so no surprise it doesn't return as it should. If nothing else it needs to be disassembled, cleaned really good, lubed and put back together. Short of that you're ******* up a rope trying to get that machine to perform correctly. Be careful with that spring cover, it's pot metal and the tabs can break pretty easy if you try prying it off. Turn it a 1/4 turn counter-clockwise and pull it away from the drill. I wouldn't try winding the spring any tighter till after a good inside-out cleaning of the drill. If the spring isn't broken already (and it doesn't sound like it is if you're getting a partial return) it'll definitely break if you wind it tight and make it fight against 7+decades of crud. Do it right and you won't be disappointed, it's a good solid press.

I think the spring cover is missing on mine, it's the cover over that gear on the side, correct? I'm missing that and the original top cover.

Would you suggest a full teardown of everything or just the spring mechanism, and the rest of the parts involved in that?

I'm asking because I fear damaging or messing something up worse than it is. I'm mechanically minded but have never restored a drill press (though the design seems incredibly simple).
 

1930artdeco

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In my opinion, if you want another 80 years out of it then tear it down and clean/lube repair and put her back together. They are very simple in design and then you will know exactly what you need to do instead of guessing.

Mike
 

JoCoSawdust

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I'd first assess how much money you want to put into that particular press since it's missing parts. I bought a Mohawk press 100 percent complete for 40 bucks. I see them advertised now and then in the 100 dollar range. You're going to spend that or more for the pulley cover and spring housing IF you can find them unless you're very lucky.

Wether you want to keep this press or hold out for a complete one, I'd suggest tearing this one down. Before you do that, spend time in the operator manual. Learn the parts and nomenclature. Look at these rebuild threads. Spend a lot of time on Frank Lee's 103 thread. Most of those are later KS models but the general idea is the same for your press. Then just do it. Restoring a DP isn't splitting an atom. Once you do one you're good. You'll see differences press to press but for the most part they're pretty basic machines and not a lot of variances from one to another. Bust your cherry on this one with the parts you have then make a more informed decision as to how you want to go forward.
 
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faultymechanics

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I'd first assess how much money you want to put into that particular press since it's missing parts. I bought a Mohawk press 100 percent complete for 40 bucks. I see them advertised now and then in the 100 dollar range. You're going to spend that or more for the pulley cover and spring housing IF you can find them unless you're very lucky.

Wether you want to keep this press or hold out for a complete one, I'd suggest tearing this one down. Before you do that, spend time in the operator manual. Learn the parts and nomenclature. Look at these rebuild threads. Spend a lot of time on Frank Lee's 103 thread. Most of those are later KS models but the general idea is the same for your press. Then just do it. Restoring a DP isn't splitting an atom. Once you do one you're good. You'll see differences press to press but for the most part they're pretty basic machines and not a lot of variances from one to another. Bust your cherry on this one with the parts you have then make a more informed decision as to how you want to go forward.


I got it for $20 which seems like a steal. Plus the fact that both missing parts aren’t essential to functionality....I think
 

AdrianBoomer

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I have one that I gave the treatment to. i have a number of antique DPs but I can honestly say, after I did the bearings and got it back together, it is the quietest and vibration free of the bunch. I have a Delta DP200 I use for metal but the Craftsman Flash Gordon is lovely and quiet. You just need to get a new spring, something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQ06JGA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I think the 103.0303 or 0305 is 1/2 inch x 1 1/2 diameter to fit in the cup which is 12.7mm x 38mm , and the travel is 4":
View media item 77420
 
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faultymechanics

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I have one that I gave the treatment to. i have a number of antique DPs but I can honestly say, after I did the bearings and got it back together, it is the quietest and vibration free of the bunch. I have a Delta DP200 I use for metal but the Craftsman Flash Gordon is lovely and quiet. You just need to get a new spring, something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQ06JGA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I think the 103.0303 or 0305 is 1/2 inch x 1 1/2 diameter to fit in the cup which is 12.7mm x 38mm , and the travel is 4":
View media item 77420

Thanks for the information and links. Do you know for sure if that is the right sized spring you linked? If so I'll order it so I can make the repairs this weekend.

Thanks again for all the help, excited to get this DP running like she used to.
 
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faultymechanics

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Franconia
Latest update:


Disassembled the entire DP as suggested. Bearing all see to spin smoothly for the spindle and the electric motor....no sure if I need to replace them.

It would appear, however, that I am missing the spring. If anyone could lead me towards the proper replacement, that'd be great.

I'm soaking anything rusty in evaporust....not sure what I'll do to derust the column though....maybe same thing?

Any other tips? I am assuming reassembly is the same process just backwards for the most part.

Photos of everything below.


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JoCoSawdust

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I use electrolysis for removing rust from large pieces. Link here:

https://www.htpaa.org.au/resources/rust-removal

After that it's elbow grease to polish it up. I start with 220 sandpaper, working my way through finer grits then green, maroon and finally white 3M pads. Paste wax after that.

Somebody upthread recommended a replacement spring. Try that. Worst that can happen is it doesn't work and you send it back for a refund.
 
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faultymechanics

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Spring arrives today but I’m having trouble finding a photo that shows where it is installed.


Any pictures that anyone knows of?
 
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faultymechanics

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Franconia

different drill press, same concept

I just realized...I don't have the spring cover knob for my press....so I can't even install a new spring.

Am I correct that I need to source a new cover knob to have use a spring? Seems that way based on the video you linked.
 

PeterPeter

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Apr 30, 2019
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Newburyport
Your sliding down a slippery slope. I had to buy another press to get the spring cover-the press was $25, which is what that spring cover will cost (if you can find one). I see you haven’t updated in a while. How is it going?
 

cole.brown23

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Oct 29, 2021
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I recently purchased one and am looking for the spindle pulley for the belt. Can anyone help please!
 
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