1940’s Navy style compressor

[jakgop21]

So a friend of mine dropped off at my door unbenounced to me a compressor from the 1940’s I believe from the navy. It runs would most likely need hydro test . How much does that cost ? Is there a lot to go wrong ? Could it be a money pit ? It’s 220 I would have to power up sub panel first don’t currently have space for it until I build a shed . Is it worth it ? Please advise


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[bob15]

a picture would be nice.

How big is the tank?

What make compressor?

What size motor (HP)?

How big is the compressor?

 

[Diesel Mercedes]

Pics?

 

[Garagetime]

Pics?

 

[Lassen Forge]

Hydrotesting isn't that expensive (like probably a yard or so), you just need to get a shop to do it. Call people who do Oxy Acetylene or dive cylinders to find who does those in your area, you'll also need to do an internal inspection, maybe a magnaflux, but if it's really that badass and if it's in good shape, you'll have a fun peace of shop gear.

 

[Voi]

Recent thread on hydro testing.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373392

 

[Packard V8]

It runs would most likely need hydro test . How much does that cost ? Is there a lot to go wrong ? Could it be a money pit ? It’s 220 I would have to power up sub panel first don’t currently have space for it until I build a shed . Is it worth it ? Please advise

Yes, No, Maybe.

jack vines

 

[jakgop21]

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[mike_dmt]

Am I crazy to think it looks good enough to just start up?

 

[firebirdparts]

It looks good, I'll give you that. 5 hp, that's a big one. For the home shop I mean.

 

[Diesel Mercedes]

Here is a cheap and easy way to see if it works.

Go to lowes and buy a dryer cord, hook it up to your air compressor to the dryer outlet and watch it run right up.

Also it could have to run off the oven outlet if you hook up that cord, it depends on the number of powered wires the motor has.

Be sure to turn off the dryer breaker before plugging it in, the switch could be stuck on.

 

[jakgop21]

The only problem is kind of three fold . A I have a 110 Campbell Hausfield compressor which is kind of loud .

B. I don’t have the current room for this unless if I put it in a junky old shed or store in the backyard.

C. I don’t have a 220 outlet available yet .


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[E.Marquez]

A friend some years back bid and won a large compressor off a 1950's Navy ship being Decommissioned. 120 gal tank and 7hp motor. He paid more to have it truck hauled to his OR home then the bid cost.
It was rated to...225 psi and did so quite easily..it was quite as could be,,,,just a low speed thump thump thump.... it could lull you to sleep.
point being, it was a GREAT find and he will never have to upgrade...We did need to put some rings in it once....but parts were still available as I remember...its been 10 years or more now.

I would do an internal inspection, if no signs of bad rust Id install a new blow off valve and plug er in to come up to full pressure.. a couple of dozen times in a area that would contain a tank failure (Ive never seen an air compressor tank catastrophically fail when only used to design pressures, crack at a weld and leak yes...but never explode and send shards of metal flying...though its possible Id assume)
But hey I live dangerously

 

[Chromdome35]

There are probably 1000+ members of this forum that would be happy to buy that from you.

 

[notlob]

There are probably 1000+ members of this forum that would be happy to buy that from you.

Count me in. When/where can I pick it up?

 

[nelstomlinson]

The only problem is kind of three fold . A I have a 110 Campbell Hausfield compressor which is kind of loud .

B. I don’t have the current room for this unless if I put it in a junky old shed or store in the backyard.

C. I don’t have a 220 outlet available yet .


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A) isn't a problem, or, it's a problem you can solve via Craigslist.

B) build a platform, put this machine on top of it, near your ceiling.

C) you almost surely have stove and dryer outlets, or just pop the deadfront off your panel and doubletap a couple of existing breaker lugs for a quick test. In the worst case, you might have to add a subpanel for a permanent installation. Not a huge problem.

 

[lakeroadster]

So a friend of mine dropped off at my door unbenounced to me a compressor from the 1940’s I believe from the navy. It runs would most likely need hydro test . How much does that cost ? Is there a lot to go wrong ? Could it be a money pit ? It’s 220 I would have to power up sub panel first don’t currently have space for it until I build a shed . Is it worth it ? Please advise


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Nice

Appears it is stamped “MAWP 115”

Also stamped “Class 3” which is a Transport Tank… not that it matters.

The tank has inspection openings. Take both of those pipe plugs off and look inside to see if there is significant corrosion, especially at the bottom.

If you really want to have it hydrotested here is a link to the NBIC website. Look for a shop in your area that has a “U’ or “R” stamp certification.

http://www.nationalboard.org/ManufacturerDirectory.aspx

 

[Packard V8]

So a friend of mine dropped off at my door unbenounced to me a compressor

Now that's a friend and that's a REALLY NICE compressor.

jack vines

 

[MacMcMacmac]

That's an old Brunner compressor.

 

[jakgop21]

That's an old Brunner compressor.

Is that a good brand ?


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[Sloper0204]

I'll be damned, that's a U-Stamped pressure vessel built to the 1937 Edition of ASME Section VIII. There should be a National Board number on that same name plate location that would allow you to track down the "Birth Certificate" (U1A) of that pressure vessel and see what materials, specifications, etc it was designed for.

I've got a full copy of the 1937 edition on my laptop since its what I do for a living.

BTW, that "MAX WP" means the MAWP (Maximum Allowable Working Pressure) is 115psig, it would be best if to not exceed that.

 

[Sloper0204]

Nice

Appears it is stamped “MAWP 115”

Also stamped “Class 3” which is a Transport Tank… not that it matters.

The tank has inspection openings. Take both of those pipe plugs off and look inside to see if there is significant corrosion, especially at the bottom.

If you really want to have it hydrotested here is a link to the NBIC website. Look for a shop in your area that has a “U’ or “R” stamp certification.

http://www.nationalboard.org/ManufacturerDirectory.aspx

Beat me too it. Should have read the thread instead of getting excited about seeing a U stamp here on GJ...

 

[jakgop21]

How much would it cost for a hydrotesting? What else should be looked at considering the age of this unit? Or would it just be better to buy a similar size new unit ? Any particular brands you guys recommend? Something made in the states .


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[Ole Slewfoot]

Mines a little newer at 1948. I just changed the oil and fired it up. Its on about 10 years with no problems.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Is that a good brand ?


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It was up until 1980 when it went out of business. These were originally refrigeration compressors,so they are very heavily built, and very simple. You can see the reefer heritage in the fact that some of them used mechanical oil seals on a simple splash lube compressor. It was cheaper then a redesign I suppose. They also have those wide gasket surfaces at the bottom of the block to help keep them sealed up tight. Probably has asbestos gaskets, so take care if you want to open it up.

The only place I know that might still have parts is Atmosphair in Markham Ontario, Canada. These compressors were used in Dunham Bush AC equipment, which I think is their main line of work. Do not lose that metal tag, it is the only sure way I know of to identify a Brunner. You are very lucky to still have it attached.